Just wondering how to make Korda adjustable zig fish safe. I imagine under the float the hot her side from the hook length you could have anti tangle tubing. But how does the float release. It can do as much damage as a lead. In terms of the lead you could helisafe. Any ideas
In reply to Post #1
I'm not sure that tubing or a helisafe could make adjustables safer?
Maybe there is a concern regards the float. I'm not sure line+float is any worse than just line tbh. If anything get snagged it's the zig line i.e. the hooklink that'll go first. What's your thinking buddy?
I'm not sure that tubing or a helisafe could make adjustables safer?
Maybe there is a concern regards the float. I'm not sure line+float is any worse than just line tbh. If anything get snagged it's the zig line i.e. the hooklink that'll go first. What's your thinking buddy?
In reply to Post #1
I think is safe as the link is at the top of the float. So it would detach if line breaks. I reckon
I think is safe as the link is at the top of the float. So it would detach if line breaks. I reckon
In reply to Post #1
15lb bs mainline or stronger, 10lb hook link or weaker, most problems solved. Use barbless hooks. If the mainline breaks the float is easier to eject than many lead systems. If the mainline breaks it is pretty much impossible for the lead to remain attached to the line. No point in heli safe, it wouldn't work. It seems a pretty safe system to me. There is an element risk even free lining with a a hook on the line and nothing else. We are anglers catching fish.
15lb bs mainline or stronger, 10lb hook link or weaker, most problems solved. Use barbless hooks. If the mainline breaks the float is easier to eject than many lead systems. If the mainline breaks it is pretty much impossible for the lead to remain attached to the line. No point in heli safe, it wouldn't work. It seems a pretty safe system to me. There is an element risk even free lining with a a hook on the line and nothing else. We are anglers catching fish.
In reply to Post #2
I think if line breaks. Lead could detach and as the link is in the top of the float this could also slide off line.
I think if line breaks. Lead could detach and as the link is in the top of the float this could also slide off line.
In reply to Post #4
Oh of course the lead will come off. Silly me. The place I'm going say 15lb min. So I could use 20lb mainline and 15lb hook lenghtb
Oh of course the lead will come off. Silly me. The place I'm going say 15lb min. So I could use 20lb mainline and 15lb hook lenghtb
In reply to Post #1
. . .its the naked line / long hooklink that could ping scales off I suppose (not that this has happened to me) but then that applies to fixed zigs as well . . .
Reckon it could work with thin tubing to alleviate this but then only if the hooklink was short . . .don't think you'd catch many with 1ft of tubing below the float and a 7" hooklink above it. . .would look a bit blatant . . .
. . .its the naked line / long hooklink that could ping scales off I suppose (not that this has happened to me) but then that applies to fixed zigs as well . . .
Reckon it could work with thin tubing to alleviate this but then only if the hooklink was short . . .don't think you'd catch many with 1ft of tubing below the float and a 7" hooklink above it. . .would look a bit blatant . . .
Just had a good look. Usually fish alone so that in deep water I need to use them. The only issue that I can see is a fish trailing a float if the mainline breaks. The size 11 swivel on the hook link pulls into a soft silicon insert in the float which releases very easily, much more easily than in line and lineclip systems. If this worries you just slide a hard 5 mil bead between the hook link size 11 swivel and the float so the swivel will not pull in, then if the mainline breaks the fish can just swim away from the float without having to release the swivel. Shouldn't affect how the kit works. Hope this helps.
In reply to Post #7
Pinging off scales and other damage by the mainline is unlikely to occur as hook link length recommendations are 4ft to 6ft. Any tubing on the mainline is redundant.
Pinging off scales and other damage by the mainline is unlikely to occur as hook link length recommendations are 4ft to 6ft. Any tubing on the mainline is redundant.
In reply to Post #7
Yes I'll use tubing.
Yes I'll use tubing.
In reply to Post #1
Why do you need to add anything
I've never used one of the Korda or other ones but what makes them dangerous?
I usually just use a drennan sub float
Why do you need to add anything
I've never used one of the Korda or other ones but what makes them dangerous?
I usually just use a drennan sub float
In reply to Post #10
Do it your way my friend but I feel Belch may be leading you up the garden path here. Just picture what is being suggested dangling in mid water inches from your bait. Be interested to hear your catch reports.
Do it your way my friend but I feel Belch may be leading you up the garden path here. Just picture what is being suggested dangling in mid water inches from your bait. Be interested to hear your catch reports.
In reply to Post #13
Agree. In my experience, bites slow down as you go past the 10/12 lb BS mark for zig line. Put tubing on and it's game over imo.
Agree. In my experience, bites slow down as you go past the 10/12 lb BS mark for zig line. Put tubing on and it's game over imo.
I use braid for adjustable zigs and a 6 feet link. Only use adjustables in say 9 feet plus.
Braid helps no end with bite detection and bringing the float up. Perfectly safe imo
As said if you use a clear piker sub float (I use the large fox Rage one) with a marker float boom with run ring and large bead (MOD Lead Core Marker Float Link on ebay) it works better than the Korda kits and half the price.
A good tip is to but a 5mm loop section of PVA stocking and loop it on to the swivel eye then nick the hook through the PVA for casting. Never tangles. A large eye swivel makes this easier.
Can fish this well over 100 yards if wind allows. A ball bearing swivel on the lead eliminates the braid twisting around the run ring allowing the float to come up.
As it's a running lead I use a line clip to help set the hook, like we did in the good old days fishing running ledgers
Braid helps no end with bite detection and bringing the float up. Perfectly safe imo
As said if you use a clear piker sub float (I use the large fox Rage one) with a marker float boom with run ring and large bead (MOD Lead Core Marker Float Link on ebay) it works better than the Korda kits and half the price.
A good tip is to but a 5mm loop section of PVA stocking and loop it on to the swivel eye then nick the hook through the PVA for casting. Never tangles. A large eye swivel makes this easier.
Can fish this well over 100 yards if wind allows. A ball bearing swivel on the lead eliminates the braid twisting around the run ring allowing the float to come up.
As it's a running lead I use a line clip to help set the hook, like we did in the good old days fishing running ledgers