Whats the most effective setup in your opnion from rod to rig and hook bait....without using a chod rig?
13ft 3.75 Fox X5
Shimano black mags
26lb suffix
40lb fox submerge shock leader
30lb submerge 3ft leader
Leadclip
4oz lead
Ronnie rig no putty
14mm pop up
???
13ft 3.75 Fox X5
Shimano black mags
26lb suffix
40lb fox submerge shock leader
30lb submerge 3ft leader
Leadclip
4oz lead
Ronnie rig no putty
14mm pop up
???
In reply to Post #1
13ft treb lite
Silver mags
35lb braided leader
10lb pro clear
Helicopter set up with a 5oz distance lead and a Ronnie with a small (10-12mm) hookbail
Oh......and a casting lesson or 2
This is exactly what I use
13ft treb lite
Silver mags
35lb braided leader
10lb pro clear
Helicopter set up with a 5oz distance lead and a Ronnie with a small (10-12mm) hookbail
Oh......and a casting lesson or 2
This is exactly what I use
distance above all else...
Custom spod rod
Regular size big pit
Small rock hard solid bag
Custom spod rod
Regular size big pit
Small rock hard solid bag
In reply to Post #1
Boat.
Boat.
In reply to Post #1
The most effective without using a chod to guarantee to be fishing is a small 4oz - 5 oz compact solid bag.
Cast virtually as far as a lead..
Rods - the ones that enable you to generate the fastest lead / bag speed.
Reels - anything under 650g
Reels - to match te rod.
Lead - the one that best suits the rods ability to drive the maximum velocity.
Line - the thinner the better will get further but will snap easier.
Lead size will be commensurate to the rod.
Rig - up to use but see first point.
14mm pop up - not bad, 20mm will cast shorter, 10mm further..
Bottom baits - in both sizes no difference to casting
The most effective without using a chod to guarantee to be fishing is a small 4oz - 5 oz compact solid bag.
Cast virtually as far as a lead..
Rods - the ones that enable you to generate the fastest lead / bag speed.
Reels - anything under 650g
Reels - to match te rod.
Lead - the one that best suits the rods ability to drive the maximum velocity.
Line - the thinner the better will get further but will snap easier.
Lead size will be commensurate to the rod.
Rig - up to use but see first point.
14mm pop up - not bad, 20mm will cast shorter, 10mm further..
Bottom baits - in both sizes no difference to casting
In reply to Post #1
5oz lead, 50lb Armakord, 20lb Berkley Whiplash Crystal 0.06mm dia.
Tiny 8mm or 10mm baits, bigger the bait..more drag!
5oz lead, 50lb Armakord, 20lb Berkley Whiplash Crystal 0.06mm dia.
Tiny 8mm or 10mm baits, bigger the bait..more drag!
In reply to Post #4
Been a long time but I still have the rods.
Greys FX4 (should have got FX5)
Original Emblem spod reel
4.5/5oz lead, Helicopter rig
30lb amnesia leader
10lb mainline
Would have said braided mainline but never again, I like my index finger in 1 piece.
Been a long time but I still have the rods.
Greys FX4 (should have got FX5)
Original Emblem spod reel
4.5/5oz lead, Helicopter rig
30lb amnesia leader
10lb mainline
Would have said braided mainline but never again, I like my index finger in 1 piece.
In reply to Post #7
Did I sell you those rods ?
Did I sell you those rods ?
In reply to Post #8
If you sold them to me about 14 years ago maybe, now what are the odds
If you sold them to me about 14 years ago maybe, now what are the odds
In reply to Post #1
Casting Technique.
All the 'to the horizion' gear, is no good to any angler- without a well honed casting technique to match said tackle.
Casting Technique.
All the 'to the horizion' gear, is no good to any angler- without a well honed casting technique to match said tackle.
In reply to Post #9
Wow, I've been through some kit since then but always come back to daiwa rods and reels.
Wow, I've been through some kit since then but always come back to daiwa rods and reels.
In reply to Post #11
Got to be a wind up
Bought them for distance French fishing (boat work) but then took a break from fishing, still in new condition and still a hell of a rod
Got to be a wind up
Bought them for distance French fishing (boat work) but then took a break from fishing, still in new condition and still a hell of a rod
In reply to Post #5
any videos out there worth watching in setting up a long range pva bag rig?
Yes we all know technique and lessons will help. The post is about the setup not what can you do to help
any videos out there worth watching in setting up a long range pva bag rig?
Yes we all know technique and lessons will help. The post is about the setup not what can you do to help
Good technique and practise.
Your first few casts when actually fishing are warm ups rather than all out going for it. They help get your timing in and probably do save you a few muscle aches strains and pulls.
Believe it or not, casting distance wise, for me there is little difference between a 2.75 rod and a 3.25lb rod.
I can get the best out of the 2.75 with a 3oz lead, whereas I need to go up to 3.5 or even 4oz with the heavier test curve.
Rods and reels need to balance each other.
A good casting line is supple, not stiff, and a good diameter, but not so thin that crack-offs become a risk. If that means using a shock leader, then do it, but NOT in waters with weed and snags.
Rigs need to be short, long messy rigs reduce casting distance and nothing worse not knowing if you are tangled or not. You can put rigs inside PVA bag, fit PVA stringer, to reduce tangles, but those will cut down distance, especially if you get to the stage of 'overloading' rod. Or to keep tangles down go to stiffer hooklink materials, soft braids can be tangle city, unless you can feather it.
Helicopter set-ups maximum distance, but pendant set-ups with running leads may be safer on leaders.
Your first few casts when actually fishing are warm ups rather than all out going for it. They help get your timing in and probably do save you a few muscle aches strains and pulls.
Believe it or not, casting distance wise, for me there is little difference between a 2.75 rod and a 3.25lb rod.
I can get the best out of the 2.75 with a 3oz lead, whereas I need to go up to 3.5 or even 4oz with the heavier test curve.
Rods and reels need to balance each other.
A good casting line is supple, not stiff, and a good diameter, but not so thin that crack-offs become a risk. If that means using a shock leader, then do it, but NOT in waters with weed and snags.
Rigs need to be short, long messy rigs reduce casting distance and nothing worse not knowing if you are tangled or not. You can put rigs inside PVA bag, fit PVA stringer, to reduce tangles, but those will cut down distance, especially if you get to the stage of 'overloading' rod. Or to keep tangles down go to stiffer hooklink materials, soft braids can be tangle city, unless you can feather it.
Helicopter set-ups maximum distance, but pendant set-ups with running leads may be safer on leaders.
In reply to Post #14
True. If fishing big distance I'd take at least 3 casts to get there, wetting the spool each time the lead hits its mark and checking the leader for damage before any recasts. I've found wetting the spool very important, espesh if fishing with braid which can 'bed in' when drying out between sessions.
I'm not so sure about rods and reels needing any balance when all out distance is required, in fact the contrary, the weight should be below or around the pivot point like a trebuchet.
True. If fishing big distance I'd take at least 3 casts to get there, wetting the spool each time the lead hits its mark and checking the leader for damage before any recasts. I've found wetting the spool very important, espesh if fishing with braid which can 'bed in' when drying out between sessions.
I'm not so sure about rods and reels needing any balance when all out distance is required, in fact the contrary, the weight should be below or around the pivot point like a trebuchet.