In reply to Post #43
I've used 8g of fructose with 92g of BAF mix and made 14mm baits that hold a size 4 up for 24hrs+

It guess it all depends on what powders you're using. 10g of spirulina will be more powder than 10g of a fishmeal for instance.

You could always do a half egg mix as a test

In reply to Post #46
Plus with your fructose recipe it will sort of even out as it goes with fructose being replaced by lighter water.

It's probably going to “change” in buoyancy less as although more water is sucked on fructose is 1.6 x the density

In reply to Post #47
The one bait I'm using krill meal, beef liver powder, full fat glm and brocacel yeast. Probs looking for a 15mm finished bait. Probably have to just give it a test I guess. Maybe I'll cut down to 2.5g of each and 90g of the BAF powder.

I tried dying JB bio shelfish with pink dye and it went a salmon pink type colour

And tried the super milk mix with mainline white dye and it was kind of a grey / beige colour.

Fail

I was after a nice clean bright white and a washed pink

In reply to Post #48
Would it even be worth adding 2.5 or 5g each of those powders?

In reply to Post #48
Buy some Titanium Dioxide from a chem supplier. Loads on Ebay. That will dye a fishmeal white, unless the mix has Robin Red in, then you'll get a pink colour.

In reply to Post #50
Yes I think bio shelfish base mix contains robin red. I ended up with a pink colour trying to dye it white with mainline try colours. Wasn't impressed

Would it dye his super milk bright white?

In reply to Post #51
Should do, if you went say 3g to 97g of base mix. Worth experimenting with.
As a side effect, I've found Titanium also hardens the bait a little too.

In reply to Post #52
One thing I found with white, if you mix some into the beaten eggs before adding any powder, it helps disperse the colour better and you get a cleaner white - can also help to sieve the powder as titanium dioxide can be a bit lumpy.

In reply to Post #55
Very much agree with the sieving comment, it helps a lot!

In reply to Post #55
And the egg thing, makes a big difference

In reply to Post #55
literally just been talking a fellow bait maker through this as hes using huuuuuge amounts of TO and really didn't need too.

I'd found the best time to add it is at the stage of a thick batter, and to absolutely beat it to within an inch of its life. the more it disperses the whiter stuff gets, not unsual for the mixer to go for 20 minutes here!


I'm a fan of insoluble pigments, and the more they disperse in the mixing state the better also.

In reply to Post #58
Mozzi... How many grams of TO would I need to add to a 1 egg mix to get super white baits then? And you are recommending adding the powder in to the mix at a thick batter stage and whisking the **** out of it? So TO will dye most plain hookabait mixes a really bright white?

Thanks

In reply to Post #59
Varies depending on which pop up mix you use, anything from 2/5g usually but just had a friend use 150g to a kilo of pop up mix.

In reply to Post #60
If I'm using the TO in with a base mix and cork ball popup can I pretty much add as much as it takes to make the mix as white as I want it? It's not repellent to carp at higher levels is it?

In reply to Post #61
Ive not found it to be the case, you'll sooner reach levels that make it hard to work with I.e getting too chalky and not binding properly.