In reply to Post #45
Will take a look
oh yes one of them will be getting ordered in the red.That will match my solar carbon colours bobbins nicely and the red whippings on my rods
Will take a look
oh yes one of them will be getting ordered in the red.That will match my solar carbon colours bobbins nicely and the red whippings on my rods
In reply to Post #42
It's the Bombus I got 👍👍
It's the Bombus I got 👍👍
In reply to Post #47
Going be interesting see the price of the new coloured carbon ones and what do you have to do so they will take 15mm baits
Going be interesting see the price of the new coloured carbon ones and what do you have to do so they will take 15mm baits
In reply to Post #48
The plug forms a little cup in which 15s can get jammed (you'll see what I mean you get it) so you just need to glue a little bit of plastic onto the cup to prevent it
The plug forms a little cup in which 15s can get jammed (you'll see what I mean you get it) so you just need to glue a little bit of plastic onto the cup to prevent it
In reply to Post #49
A bit off topic but I read on the forum once that you get more distance if you put foam in the bottom few inches of the stick, just to the level of the top of your grip, the logic being that the boilie is being forced the wrong way until the stick is vertical, whether this is true I'm not sure, if it is it might help someone get a few more yards.
A bit off topic but I read on the forum once that you get more distance if you put foam in the bottom few inches of the stick, just to the level of the top of your grip, the logic being that the boilie is being forced the wrong way until the stick is vertical, whether this is true I'm not sure, if it is it might help someone get a few more yards.
In reply to Post #49
Maybe waving a big red stick around will help scare the seagulls too?!
In reply to Post #52
It's not completely red,it's just flecked into the carbon.My face goes red enough watching the flying rats thieving my bait
It's not completely red,it's just flecked into the carbon.My face goes red enough watching the flying rats thieving my bait
In reply to Post #53
If it was pink and yellow stripes and wolf whistled every chuck i'd give it a go.
If it was pink and yellow stripes and wolf whistled every chuck i'd give it a go.
In reply to Post #54
Might not be your little balls flying in the air that get unwanted attention
Might not be your little balls flying in the air that get unwanted attention
In reply to Post #55
Any bird on the bank can do what they want with my little balls.
Any bird on the bank can do what they want with my little balls.
In reply to Post #56
In reply to Post #50
It is true, but it only makes the stick perform better and easier to hit long range with less effort but not really farther. I have posted it several times over the years. A stick without a "Bung" is useless as it takes a lot of arm work to make it work, hence aching arms and shoulders. Without a bung, the pivot point is below the top of the hand, so to get the bait flying out, you have to hold the stick in a way that the bait starts rolling up the stick and above the hand. To do that, the stick becomes an extension of your arm and it has to have a lot of shoulder movement to make the stick work, hence aching shoulders. If you was to imagine your holding your stick with bait in or just grab a pen etc, then rotate your hand, you would see the bottom of the stick moves backwards, any bait in that section of the stick will not come out, unless as mentioned, you tip the stick back and then it all becomes guesswork as to when to fire the bait forwards, very inaccurate, but a point close to the top of your hand pivots forwards and that is where your bait should be.
Fit a bung in the handle, and then the only movement you need is from the elbow mainly and for long distance, just raise the arm to move the stick through a bigger arc and faster.
Fitting a bung can be fine tuned, the bung slightly high will have the bait fly high and even vertical if its too far up the stick. Too low down the stick and the bait will fly low and hit the water in front of you in the worst instance.
So what you have to do is move the bung up or down the stick slightly and keep testing it to fine tune it. But, do not alter the arm action to chase what you are trying to achieve., all it is, is a 2 oclock to 10 o clock action as if your fly fishing. If the bait flies high, just push the bung down the stick about 1/4 of an inch or vice versa if it is firing low. The sweet spot is about level with the top of your hand hold.
Once you have it right, with just a flick, the bait will fly out horizontal out of the stick and becomes very accurate. If you want, you can aim high or low and drop your bait almost on top of the last bait you fired out.
Anyone I see struggling with a stick to use it, I go round and show them my collection of throwing sticks fitted with a bung. At first they do wild slashes with it which is what you have to do with a stick with no bung in to try and make it work, but then when I show them, its just a fly fishing action, they get it in no time and are impressed at how easy it is.
Also, throwing sticks are like golf clubs, a short one about 18" for up to 60 yards and a longer one for beyond that.
But, what I do not understand is why was the idea of having throwing sticks with bungs in forgotten about. The original designs had them in, my first one bought in the 80's had one in and I still use it today, and even Rod Hutchinson's design in the "Carp Strikes Back", page 77, had a bung in, 6" from the bottom.
Basically, all manufacturers are doing is selling you a piece of plastic or carbon tubing which you can source yourself and make your own sticks far cheaper than they sell you and with a bung fitted, outperform them.
It is true, but it only makes the stick perform better and easier to hit long range with less effort but not really farther. I have posted it several times over the years. A stick without a "Bung" is useless as it takes a lot of arm work to make it work, hence aching arms and shoulders. Without a bung, the pivot point is below the top of the hand, so to get the bait flying out, you have to hold the stick in a way that the bait starts rolling up the stick and above the hand. To do that, the stick becomes an extension of your arm and it has to have a lot of shoulder movement to make the stick work, hence aching shoulders. If you was to imagine your holding your stick with bait in or just grab a pen etc, then rotate your hand, you would see the bottom of the stick moves backwards, any bait in that section of the stick will not come out, unless as mentioned, you tip the stick back and then it all becomes guesswork as to when to fire the bait forwards, very inaccurate, but a point close to the top of your hand pivots forwards and that is where your bait should be.
Fit a bung in the handle, and then the only movement you need is from the elbow mainly and for long distance, just raise the arm to move the stick through a bigger arc and faster.
Fitting a bung can be fine tuned, the bung slightly high will have the bait fly high and even vertical if its too far up the stick. Too low down the stick and the bait will fly low and hit the water in front of you in the worst instance.
So what you have to do is move the bung up or down the stick slightly and keep testing it to fine tune it. But, do not alter the arm action to chase what you are trying to achieve., all it is, is a 2 oclock to 10 o clock action as if your fly fishing. If the bait flies high, just push the bung down the stick about 1/4 of an inch or vice versa if it is firing low. The sweet spot is about level with the top of your hand hold.
Once you have it right, with just a flick, the bait will fly out horizontal out of the stick and becomes very accurate. If you want, you can aim high or low and drop your bait almost on top of the last bait you fired out.
Anyone I see struggling with a stick to use it, I go round and show them my collection of throwing sticks fitted with a bung. At first they do wild slashes with it which is what you have to do with a stick with no bung in to try and make it work, but then when I show them, its just a fly fishing action, they get it in no time and are impressed at how easy it is.
Also, throwing sticks are like golf clubs, a short one about 18" for up to 60 yards and a longer one for beyond that.
But, what I do not understand is why was the idea of having throwing sticks with bungs in forgotten about. The original designs had them in, my first one bought in the 80's had one in and I still use it today, and even Rod Hutchinson's design in the "Carp Strikes Back", page 77, had a bung in, 6" from the bottom.
Basically, all manufacturers are doing is selling you a piece of plastic or carbon tubing which you can source yourself and make your own sticks far cheaper than they sell you and with a bung fitted, outperform them.
Decided on the Fox Carbon Stick R20 today. Main reason was the price. For £55 i was mad not to. Absolute bargain.
In reply to Post #59
Go gentle with it,they snap by the loading port
Go gentle with it,they snap by the loading port