In reply to Post #30
Whats the spec of them compared to the obsidian biggsy?
The biggest disappointment of the shimano xtd's for me was the bail arms, they gave me Uri Gellar power, everytime I pulled them out of the rod bag they shape shifted, think my 80's first portable colour tv aerial was the same diameter lol, take it yours are wider??
He's the obsidian features/specs,
.
35mm stroke with super slow oscillation
Light weight C-40X carbon frame and sideplates
C-40X Cyclonic Flow Rotor for corrosion resistance
Ultra light Screw in handle
Ultra light spool
Even Flow Roller System with DLC coating
Frictionless main Shaft design
Ultra-lightweight, A7075 aluminum shaft
Rotor with tangle guard - prevents line from entering the shaft
Rotor brake system
Carbon fiber drag system
Fast progressive drag
All HPB Bearing
Worm shaft transmission system
One-Piece Bail
Gearing stabilization design
Extra 1 spool with 2 reducers (it can be reduced to 8000 or 1500)
9HPB+RB for ultimate smoothness.
Gear ratio 4.3:1
Weight 520g
Max drag 18kg
Bearings 8+1
Whats the spec of them compared to the obsidian biggsy?
The biggest disappointment of the shimano xtd's for me was the bail arms, they gave me Uri Gellar power, everytime I pulled them out of the rod bag they shape shifted, think my 80's first portable colour tv aerial was the same diameter lol, take it yours are wider??
He's the obsidian features/specs,
.
35mm stroke with super slow oscillation
Light weight C-40X carbon frame and sideplates
C-40X Cyclonic Flow Rotor for corrosion resistance
Ultra light Screw in handle
Ultra light spool
Even Flow Roller System with DLC coating
Frictionless main Shaft design
Ultra-lightweight, A7075 aluminum shaft
Rotor with tangle guard - prevents line from entering the shaft
Rotor brake system
Carbon fiber drag system
Fast progressive drag
All HPB Bearing
Worm shaft transmission system
One-Piece Bail
Gearing stabilization design
Extra 1 spool with 2 reducers (it can be reduced to 8000 or 1500)
9HPB+RB for ultimate smoothness.
Gear ratio 4.3:1
Weight 520g
Max drag 18kg
Bearings 8+1
In reply to Post #23
In simple terms.
Imagine when your mono is first loaded onto the plastic spool in Japan, Taiwan or wherever. It will be a blank plastic spool. As the machine loads the spool of mono. There will be some twist added. That is unavoidable when a mile of mono is wrapped around a tight spool. Then the stickers will be added denoting what tackle seller the spool of line is going too, BS etc. It will be totally random as to what side of the spool the sticker goes onto on most lines.
It's up to you to find out using the foolproof method I explained earlier.
"It does not matter what your personal preference of loading your mono onto your spools is. A pencil, or standing the spool on its side. You will still mess it up and add tonnes of twist unless you actually load it the correct way off the spool".
If you do not want to take it off the spool, with the spool on its side... Do it with a pencil if that is what you have always prefered. It simply doesn't really matter that much in reality. What matters is that when you are filling your reel spool and adding your little bit of twist... You are reversing the twist imparted when the manufacturer first loaded it on. If you simply add more twist the same way... That's a proper coily nightmare, and we have all been there. Just keep stopping and looking at the tip, your line will tell you... Don't just wind it all on at 5000mph like your life depends on it
. If it is coiling into knots... Get the person holding your pencil to turn the spool over. If it is coming from bottom of spool then coiling, you want it the other way coming off the top of the bulk spool. You will find the opposite happens when you do and there will be no more coiling up in knots when you release tension on the line. You are adding twist, but reversing what the manufacturer did.
In simple terms.
Imagine when your mono is first loaded onto the plastic spool in Japan, Taiwan or wherever. It will be a blank plastic spool. As the machine loads the spool of mono. There will be some twist added. That is unavoidable when a mile of mono is wrapped around a tight spool. Then the stickers will be added denoting what tackle seller the spool of line is going too, BS etc. It will be totally random as to what side of the spool the sticker goes onto on most lines.
It's up to you to find out using the foolproof method I explained earlier.
"It does not matter what your personal preference of loading your mono onto your spools is. A pencil, or standing the spool on its side. You will still mess it up and add tonnes of twist unless you actually load it the correct way off the spool".
If you do not want to take it off the spool, with the spool on its side... Do it with a pencil if that is what you have always prefered. It simply doesn't really matter that much in reality. What matters is that when you are filling your reel spool and adding your little bit of twist... You are reversing the twist imparted when the manufacturer first loaded it on. If you simply add more twist the same way... That's a proper coily nightmare, and we have all been there. Just keep stopping and looking at the tip, your line will tell you... Don't just wind it all on at 5000mph like your life depends on it
. If it is coiling into knots... Get the person holding your pencil to turn the spool over. If it is coming from bottom of spool then coiling, you want it the other way coming off the top of the bulk spool. You will find the opposite happens when you do and there will be no more coiling up in knots when you release tension on the line. You are adding twist, but reversing what the manufacturer did.
In reply to Post #31
Hi m8,havnt got the spec handy,
The xtd,s you refer to haven't got a touch on my XTB,s different reels altogether,still fetching £1000 + for a mint set of 3 ,happy new year,🥳
Hi m8,havnt got the spec handy,
The xtd,s you refer to haven't got a touch on my XTB,s different reels altogether,still fetching £1000 + for a mint set of 3 ,happy new year,🥳
Have a look at this video for loading line, exactly how I've done it for years...
https://youtu.be/_cWWGPOki8k?si=G8u4LvN8dBBcS4zz
https://youtu.be/_cWWGPOki8k?si=G8u4LvN8dBBcS4zz
Hi, bit over the top.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFu7UNmS1EQ&t=156s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbeWtsJnVC8
If you use say a pencil through the spool, every rotation of the reels rotor, will put one twist in the line.
Put the spool on its end in a bucket etc with water in it (for lubrication).
Make sure the line is coming off spool, same way as reel rotor is spinning ie normally anti clockwise. Due to diff diameters, if line starts getting twists in, turn spool over so it comes off clockwise for a short time. Then back to anti clockwise.
If your loading a multiplier/ baitcaster reel, just put a pencil through the spool.
As this will be how line is loaded in a factory on the plastic spools ie no line twists in line.
Spinning Reels put twist in the line, at least for initial loading of line onto there spools, follow above.
IMO most twist in line after that, is caused by using the drag.
Try sending a bait boat out a few times, say 100m, with bail arm closed & drag slacked off.
Seen it & its amazing seeing 100m of line with loads of long twirls in it, consisting
of 100's of twists. I did help guy out, but it was a nightmare.
Bob
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qFu7UNmS1EQ&t=156s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hbeWtsJnVC8
If you use say a pencil through the spool, every rotation of the reels rotor, will put one twist in the line.
Put the spool on its end in a bucket etc with water in it (for lubrication).
Make sure the line is coming off spool, same way as reel rotor is spinning ie normally anti clockwise. Due to diff diameters, if line starts getting twists in, turn spool over so it comes off clockwise for a short time. Then back to anti clockwise.
If your loading a multiplier/ baitcaster reel, just put a pencil through the spool.
As this will be how line is loaded in a factory on the plastic spools ie no line twists in line.
Spinning Reels put twist in the line, at least for initial loading of line onto there spools, follow above.
IMO most twist in line after that, is caused by using the drag.
Try sending a bait boat out a few times, say 100m, with bail arm closed & drag slacked off.
Seen it & its amazing seeing 100m of line with loads of long twirls in it, consisting
of 100's of twists. I did help guy out, but it was a nightmare.
Bob
In reply to Post #34
Agreed yet many others are saying don't do it that way and favour the line coming off the side of the spool after taking care to work out what side is the correct side.
If it works for them then who are we to say they are doing it wrong but I've gone back to the method shown in your video and that works for me.
Agreed yet many others are saying don't do it that way and favour the line coming off the side of the spool after taking care to work out what side is the correct side.
If it works for them then who are we to say they are doing it wrong but I've gone back to the method shown in your video and that works for me.
In reply to Post #35
Having watched both the vids I have realised I've been doing it wrong. These vids are as definitive a proof as you're ever going to get. I will be buying a spin doctor asap too. I did have one when they first came on the market. It got bitten off by a pike on the 4th cast, so I didn't persevere with it. More fool me . Thanks. I'm always prepared to learn.
Having watched both the vids I have realised I've been doing it wrong. These vids are as definitive a proof as you're ever going to get. I will be buying a spin doctor asap too. I did have one when they first came on the market. It got bitten off by a pike on the 4th cast, so I didn't persevere with it. More fool me . Thanks. I'm always prepared to learn.
I just walk my lines out on a field ,takes all twist out 100%
In reply to Post #38
What he said. Every few months if needed
What he said. Every few months if needed
In reply to Post #36
My line has to come off the side of the spool as it's too big to hold with a pencil
My line has to come off the side of the spool as it's too big to hold with a pencil
In reply to Post #37
I'm not convinced. The theory sounds good but my line behaves much better with the method advocated in posts 19 and 34.
It will be interesting to see how you get on when switching to the over the side of the spool.
Please let us know how you get on
I'm not convinced. The theory sounds good but my line behaves much better with the method advocated in posts 19 and 34.
It will be interesting to see how you get on when switching to the over the side of the spool.
Please let us know how you get on
In reply to Post #41
I agree, I get no twist issue doing it this way, but used to by using the method in those videos. And that's using the gr60 which is shown in them
I agree, I get no twist issue doing it this way, but used to by using the method in those videos. And that's using the gr60 which is shown in them
I've been trying to think about this logically & I think by loading line the ESP video way, the reel is adding one full twist of the line per full rotation of the reel's bail arm.
I think when you then cast using an open bail arm this twist is automatically removed as the coils are free to travel off the side of your reel's spool.
I think by loading the line on using the side spool method, the reel is loaded with (near) zero twist but then when you cast, the line coming naturally off the side of your reel's spool actually adds one revolution of twist per coil of line on your reel.
If my thinking is correct (up for debate), then the side loading method would suit those who use the clutch to baitboat out rigs as this way the line is removed with identical twist to which it was loaded - if that makes sense.
I think when you then cast using an open bail arm this twist is automatically removed as the coils are free to travel off the side of your reel's spool.
I think by loading the line on using the side spool method, the reel is loaded with (near) zero twist but then when you cast, the line coming naturally off the side of your reel's spool actually adds one revolution of twist per coil of line on your reel.
If my thinking is correct (up for debate), then the side loading method would suit those who use the clutch to baitboat out rigs as this way the line is removed with identical twist to which it was loaded - if that makes sense.
In reply to Post #41
I have a few spools to do but no time atm. Will report back eventually.
I have a few spools to do but no time atm. Will report back eventually.
In reply to Post #43
Sounds reasonable, apart from the last paragraph. By using the clutch to bait boat out rigs you are adding far more twist than you'd of loaded imo, due to the spool not oscillating while the line is coming off
Sounds reasonable, apart from the last paragraph. By using the clutch to bait boat out rigs you are adding far more twist than you'd of loaded imo, due to the spool not oscillating while the line is coming off