Planning to refurb a set of Armalites that have been gathering dust.
What's the best way to get the old varnish / epoxy off the blank?
I'm concerned I might damage the blank with abrasives, and I'm also concerned I might damage the blank with chemical stripper. What's best?
Thanks.
What's the best way to get the old varnish / epoxy off the blank?
I'm concerned I might damage the blank with abrasives, and I'm also concerned I might damage the blank with chemical stripper. What's best?
Thanks.
In reply to Post #1
Take them to a professional rod builder.
Take them to a professional rod builder.
In reply to Post #2
No.
Thanks for your valuable contribution
No.
Thanks for your valuable contribution
In reply to Post #1
Im afraid armalites are probably the hardest rods to refurb because of the strands that run through them , did a set never again , dont know many rod builders that would , in answer to your question its a stanley blade .
Im afraid armalites are probably the hardest rods to refurb because of the strands that run through them , did a set never again , dont know many rod builders that would , in answer to your question its a stanley blade .
In reply to Post #4
Don't know what the Armalite mix is, but a mate of mine years ago tried to refurb his rods which were a carbon Kevlar mix. Totally screwed it up as he'd used sand paper to rub the blanks down. Net result was that he'd fluffed up the blank so much, that after he had coated the rods up with varnish, you could actually use his rod to saw trees down with...as one of my pals demonstrated
Steve, if you're reading this, you knob.
Don't know what the Armalite mix is, but a mate of mine years ago tried to refurb his rods which were a carbon Kevlar mix. Totally screwed it up as he'd used sand paper to rub the blanks down. Net result was that he'd fluffed up the blank so much, that after he had coated the rods up with varnish, you could actually use his rod to saw trees down with...as one of my pals demonstrated
Steve, if you're reading this, you knob.
In reply to Post #5
Thats exactly what happens , a nightmare it really is.
Thats exactly what happens , a nightmare it really is.
Do you just scratch the coating off with a blade? Do you not risk scratching up the blank?
In reply to Post #2
Reply to Posts 1&2
Kevin Baines @ Anglers Workshop in Stoke has done 6 for me recently (3 x Mk 1's for me, and 3 x Mk 2's for my son). They were complete strip downs and rebuilds. He said that they were complete pain in the backside to do, charged me £120 per rod. But he's done an absolutely fantastic job on them. If you want any photos of them, let me know
I've read on here that he's retiring at the end of this year. I'd recommend that you leave them as they are if they are useable, or see if Kevin will take them on. If he won't, ask him if he knows anyone who will !!
Good luck.
F
Reply to Posts 1&2
Kevin Baines @ Anglers Workshop in Stoke has done 6 for me recently (3 x Mk 1's for me, and 3 x Mk 2's for my son). They were complete strip downs and rebuilds. He said that they were complete pain in the backside to do, charged me £120 per rod. But he's done an absolutely fantastic job on them. If you want any photos of them, let me know
I've read on here that he's retiring at the end of this year. I'd recommend that you leave them as they are if they are useable, or see if Kevin will take them on. If he won't, ask him if he knows anyone who will !!
Good luck.
F
In reply to Post #8
Thanks very much for the info gents.
I'll have a play around on the butt section between the duplon grips which will be covered up with shrink tube in the end. I'll try some 800 grit paper with soapy water and see how it goes. If it proves really difficult I'll just do the handles!
Thanks very much for the info gents.
I'll have a play around on the butt section between the duplon grips which will be covered up with shrink tube in the end. I'll try some 800 grit paper with soapy water and see how it goes. If it proves really difficult I'll just do the handles!
In reply to Post #9
Are you wanting to rub the blanks down to get rid of scratches or just to key to re varnish, if it's just to key use fine scotch pad, or as you've said fine wet and dry, deep scratches I've filled first with a quick drying varnish just fill the scrathes try and avoid the blank and then flatten off with very fine wet and dry with water 1200 this way your not rubbing right into the blank and disturbing the fibres.
Are you wanting to rub the blanks down to get rid of scratches or just to key to re varnish, if it's just to key use fine scotch pad, or as you've said fine wet and dry, deep scratches I've filled first with a quick drying varnish just fill the scrathes try and avoid the blank and then flatten off with very fine wet and dry with water 1200 this way your not rubbing right into the blank and disturbing the fibres.
In reply to Post #10
Just to get rid of a few scratches and chips in the varnish really.
Fortunately, despite their age, they have decent ringing - 5 plus tip on 13' rods, so I'll leave the rings alone if it's going to be a pain.
Just to get rid of a few scratches and chips in the varnish really.
Fortunately, despite their age, they have decent ringing - 5 plus tip on 13' rods, so I'll leave the rings alone if it's going to be a pain.
In reply to Post #11
Might be worth trying a tcut and car polish if you just want to brighten the varnish again
Might be worth trying a tcut and car polish if you just want to brighten the varnish again
In reply to Post #12
Good idea.
Good idea.
In reply to Post #1
As a retired chippy I've tackled most jobs, when working on something with a delicate touch at some point I would use steel wool, now before you say "it's too scratchy" I mean the very fine type that French polishers use, that with washing up liquid and a gentle touch, I'm not saying this works on everything but it's worth considering, hope all go's well, an update would be good
As a retired chippy I've tackled most jobs, when working on something with a delicate touch at some point I would use steel wool, now before you say "it's too scratchy" I mean the very fine type that French polishers use, that with washing up liquid and a gentle touch, I'm not saying this works on everything but it's worth considering, hope all go's well, an update would be good
In reply to Post #14
Thanks. I had considered steel wool, just seems that wet and dry has more grades, so easier to make sure you're being delicate.
As a retired chippy, what grit grade do you think a cold fishcake would be?
Thanks. I had considered steel wool, just seems that wet and dry has more grades, so easier to make sure you're being delicate.
As a retired chippy, what grit grade do you think a cold fishcake would be?