I have just bought the avid pin down lead free leader material in 50lbs. Never spliced before so giving it a go hoping to save abit of money making my own leaders instead of buying ready made. I have the avid retracta needles. Had abit of a go at it and made a right mess 😫 does anyone have any tips to make it easier?
In reply to Post #1
Buy one of the fox easy splicing needles
Buy one of the fox easy splicing needles
In reply to Post #1
There's this thread here.
Photo guide to using leadcore
I use ESP Leadcore, not tried leadfree so can't comment but is it any different to splice?
I found the FOX bobbin threader next to useless, just bent and wouldn't go into the outer sheath at all.
ESP Splicing needles for me. The main thing is to be patient with it. Twist and pull the sheath back over rather than trying to pull the needle out/thru'.
Don't get me wrong I go thru' splicing needles like nobody's business lol
There's this thread here.
Photo guide to using leadcore
I use ESP Leadcore, not tried leadfree so can't comment but is it any different to splice?
I found the FOX bobbin threader next to useless, just bent and wouldn't go into the outer sheath at all.
ESP Splicing needles for me. The main thing is to be patient with it. Twist and pull the sheath back over rather than trying to pull the needle out/thru'.
Don't get me wrong I go thru' splicing needles like nobody's business lol
Pro tip:
Be really, really easy on the splicing needle's as you'll go through bundles of um.
Be really, really easy on the splicing needle's as you'll go through bundles of um.
In reply to Post #3
Esp or Thinking Anglers needles I found best with the Avid stuff as Cam said be patient 👍
Esp or Thinking Anglers needles I found best with the Avid stuff as Cam said be patient 👍
In reply to Post #6
I can't get the needle to go up the material 😡😡😡
I can't get the needle to go up the material 😡😡😡
In reply to Post #1
It can be tricky , I use Avid pindown in 50lb, I splice it with a thinking anglers splicing needle, you just have to be careful not to push the needle straight through and out the other side, once its running down the centre of the braid its fine, I always splice a full needle length as it can pull back through if you do a short splice.
It can be tricky , I use Avid pindown in 50lb, I splice it with a thinking anglers splicing needle, you just have to be careful not to push the needle straight through and out the other side, once its running down the centre of the braid its fine, I always splice a full needle length as it can pull back through if you do a short splice.
In reply to Post #7
It will go you just need to get careful when getting it started, once you've done it once, it will be fairly easy.
It will go you just need to get careful when getting it started, once you've done it once, it will be fairly easy.
In reply to Post #8
When you say you splice a full needle length do you mean once the needle is running down the centre? Or do you measure this before threading the needle inside? Sorry if I sound stupid but never done this before 😫
When you say you splice a full needle length do you mean once the needle is running down the centre? Or do you measure this before threading the needle inside? Sorry if I sound stupid but never done this before 😫
In reply to Post #7
I think the issue with this unleaded material is its so supple its easy to push the needle out the other side, you need to support it with you finger and thumb, lead core is easier as a length of lead has been removed leaving a channel for the needle to travel along, where as you almost have to seperate the walls of the unleaded stuff which is the difficult part.
I think the issue with this unleaded material is its so supple its easy to push the needle out the other side, you need to support it with you finger and thumb, lead core is easier as a length of lead has been removed leaving a channel for the needle to travel along, where as you almost have to seperate the walls of the unleaded stuff which is the difficult part.
In reply to Post #11
Yeh You want to start inserting the splicing needle around two full lengths of your splicing needle back down the material. Then insert the needle a full length, pop the needle through the wall of the braid , hook the end of the braid into the gate latch and pull the remainder through leaving a small loop.
Yeh You want to start inserting the splicing needle around two full lengths of your splicing needle back down the material. Then insert the needle a full length, pop the needle through the wall of the braid , hook the end of the braid into the gate latch and pull the remainder through leaving a small loop.
You can make dozens of bobbin threaders out of a spool of this stuff:
Remember, practice makes perfect!
Remember, practice makes perfect!
Do you really need spliced loops?
Even with lead core or rigmarole linktec I'll often knot it at the bottom, and I prefer a needle knot to connect it to the mainline
Even with lead core or rigmarole linktec I'll often knot it at the bottom, and I prefer a needle knot to connect it to the mainline
In reply to Post #14
That's a great tip Ken. Awesome 👍
That's a great tip Ken. Awesome 👍
In reply to Post #16
I can't even splice the material never mind make something to splice the leader with 😂😂😂😂 but it is a great tip 👍🏽
I can't even splice the material never mind make something to splice the leader with 😂😂😂😂 but it is a great tip 👍🏽
In reply to Post #17
The splicing needles that I said and Ken has mentioned make it far easier.I used to hate making leaders but I find it a doddle now
The splicing needles that I said and Ken has mentioned make it far easier.I used to hate making leaders but I find it a doddle now
In reply to Post #18
ESP splicing needles - pieced of piss!
Just wish they weren't banned on a lot of places
ESP splicing needles - pieced of piss!
Just wish they weren't banned on a lot of places
In reply to Post #19
What did ESP needles ever do? Don't tell me, they're somehow racist?
What did ESP needles ever do? Don't tell me, they're somehow racist?
In reply to Post #17
It can be a right pain in the brain at first, it gets better. Just take your time and tease it trying not to compress it too much. Bare with it, you'll soon get the knack of it 👍
It can be a right pain in the brain at first, it gets better. Just take your time and tease it trying not to compress it too much. Bare with it, you'll soon get the knack of it 👍
I'm pretty sure my needles are the original fox ones and never have a problem if your careful 👍
In reply to Post #22
Fox easy splice needles are the best by far!
Bought 2 when they first came out and one is still in the packaging.
Fox easy splice needles are the best by far!
Bought 2 when they first came out and one is still in the packaging.
In reply to Post #23
I have to agree I use the same one and find it so easy to do them with it, at the start it can be a bit fiddly but you soon pick it up and will be making them with ease in no time
I have to agree I use the same one and find it so easy to do them with it, at the start it can be a bit fiddly but you soon pick it up and will be making them with ease in no time
In reply to Post #24
How long would people recommend for pva bags and also a heli leader?
How long would people recommend for pva bags and also a heli leader?
In reply to Post #25
heli leaders I do 1m and leaders for bags I do 12" as I like them slightly longer than most
heli leaders I do 1m and leaders for bags I do 12" as I like them slightly longer than most
Bump, interesting reading and I have a question
I used leadcore for a lot of years, mainly the ESP stuff, the needles can last a very long time, years. The art is not pulling the outer sheath and locking it up, you just need to tease it through and it I will come with very little pressure, if you are feeling pressure when you are pulling the needle you are locking the outer weave up by pulling it tight
in the leadcore guide in Cams link by Andy see his picture 6. When you get to this stage you need to hold the leadcore with your finger and thumb lightly around the needle (the bit you are trying to splice) if that makes sense and just tease it through loosening the outer as you do so, soon becomes a doddle
A question. Lead free seems to be all the rage, aside to the obvious, am I missing something other that it does not have a leadcore in it that can kink?
I used leadcore for a lot of years, mainly the ESP stuff, the needles can last a very long time, years. The art is not pulling the outer sheath and locking it up, you just need to tease it through and it I will come with very little pressure, if you are feeling pressure when you are pulling the needle you are locking the outer weave up by pulling it tight
in the leadcore guide in Cams link by Andy see his picture 6. When you get to this stage you need to hold the leadcore with your finger and thumb lightly around the needle (the bit you are trying to splice) if that makes sense and just tease it through loosening the outer as you do so, soon becomes a doddle
A question. Lead free seems to be all the rage, aside to the obvious, am I missing something other that it does not have a leadcore in it that can kink?
In reply to Post #27
I've just bought a spool of the Gardner leadfree material and I have only noticed what you say, no chance of a kink. Not put it to use yet just had a bit of a play tying up some leaders but interested to see if it performs comparably, which per most reviews or should
I've just bought a spool of the Gardner leadfree material and I have only noticed what you say, no chance of a kink. Not put it to use yet just had a bit of a play tying up some leaders but interested to see if it performs comparably, which per most reviews or should
In reply to Post #28
Nice one mate. I have been contemplating going back to helicopters and looking at alternatives to leadcore. It will be interesting to hear how you get on with it or others. The only reason, I want something the hooklink swivel can pull or rub against that I can trust
Nice one mate. I have been contemplating going back to helicopters and looking at alternatives to leadcore. It will be interesting to hear how you get on with it or others. The only reason, I want something the hooklink swivel can pull or rub against that I can trust
I have been using leadless for about 10 years I like the suppleness and how it sits over any detritus, the weave obviously takes on water and acts as extra weight I have tried many versions of this and by far the best for me is the Vardis a nice loose supple weave, takes on water really well, very resilient and easy as sin to splice .
In reply to Post #29
It's more supple, and a lot lighter. You'd have to weight to weight the rig for a chod but it's fine for anything else.
I prefer the rigmarole linktec tho so can't really recommend any. Ultra supple, ultra heavy and doesn't kink
It's more supple, and a lot lighter. You'd have to weight to weight the rig for a chod but it's fine for anything else.
I prefer the rigmarole linktec tho so can't really recommend any. Ultra supple, ultra heavy and doesn't kink
In reply to Post #30
Had a google, in 45lb
Had a google, in 45lb
In reply to Post #31
I guess the lighter strains do not sink well then?
Will have a look at the linktec too.
Might by a spool and have a play around with it
I guess the lighter strains do not sink well then?
Will have a look at the linktec too.
Might by a spool and have a play around with it
In reply to Post #33
They sink well enough, but nowhere near as heavy as lead core. More like a think braid you've rubbed tungsten putty in to. A decent pop up would lift a fair chunk of it. The rigmarole stuff combines the best of both for how I use it, I'm sure there are times that the less heavy material would be better tho.
One downside to the linktec is you need wire snips really, scissors will cut the brass chain but it'll ruin them in no time
They sink well enough, but nowhere near as heavy as lead core. More like a think braid you've rubbed tungsten putty in to. A decent pop up would lift a fair chunk of it. The rigmarole stuff combines the best of both for how I use it, I'm sure there are times that the less heavy material would be better tho.
One downside to the linktec is you need wire snips really, scissors will cut the brass chain but it'll ruin them in no time
In reply to Post #34
Think I will have a nosey the next time I'm in the tackle shop
Think I will have a nosey the next time I'm in the tackle shop
Pb products silk ray sinks like an absolute brick, my pop ups are made by me and are absolutely nuclear In buoyancy and take a lot more putty to sink. I'm in an enviable position my father in law has a 14m long pond in the back garden with a shallow shelf at the shelf it's 3ft deep the deep area is 8ft, the shallow shelf has a net that is weighted that can be dropped down so when we need to do repairs we can keep the fish in the deep area and drain the shallows. So I drop that down after scaring the fish up the other end and use it to test my rigs and leaders and pb silkray has no such issues with a pop up lifting it off the deck
In reply to Post #36
Nice one mate. I take it you are talking about chods then?
Been in a local tackle shop today, limited choice, just picked up some Fox submerge in 40lb test. See how I go with it
Nice one mate. I take it you are talking about chods then?
Been in a local tackle shop today, limited choice, just picked up some Fox submerge in 40lb test. See how I go with it
In reply to Post #32
That's the one Downfall, it sinks well as it's quite a big open weave it takes on water well and becomes quite heavy when submerged.
That's the one Downfall, it sinks well as it's quite a big open weave it takes on water well and becomes quite heavy when submerged.
In reply to Post #37
Yes mate although have tested various rigs with it, with stuff like ronnies, hinges, multi rigs, Germans, stiff d's ie anything that resets its best to have a small blob of putty by the swivel/sleeve end to get them to sit pukka, the great thing is about the pond is the shelf has weedy bits and clear so I can see how it sits over both and silkray follows all the conotours really nicely and looks very subtle
Yes mate although have tested various rigs with it, with stuff like ronnies, hinges, multi rigs, Germans, stiff d's ie anything that resets its best to have a small blob of putty by the swivel/sleeve end to get them to sit pukka, the great thing is about the pond is the shelf has weedy bits and clear so I can see how it sits over both and silkray follows all the conotours really nicely and looks very subtle
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