In reply to Post #21
I agree, lowest you can go is 0.35 and that in itself is probably the limit.
I agree, lowest you can go is 0.35 and that in itself is probably the limit.
I've heard lots of things about different lines, shockleaders, diameters, breaking strains, stretch and so forth when people have talked about casting distances. What I would like to know is what people's choices are when it comes to casting a long way and whether they use braid or mono, shockleaders ect. What is the best choice for this style of fishing?
In reply to Post #1
10lb mono and a 50lb shock leader is popular if rules permit
Could do tapered line again if rules allow and separate shock leaders are banned
For fishing mono straight through it depends on your rods, if you have powerful casting rods a .38 diameter is probably best for softer rods .35 would be ok
10lb mono and a 50lb shock leader is popular if rules permit
Could do tapered line again if rules allow and separate shock leaders are banned
For fishing mono straight through it depends on your rods, if you have powerful casting rods a .38 diameter is probably best for softer rods .35 would be ok
In reply to Post #2
I think my local lake may permit the use of shock leaders. Are there any benefits from using braid as a mainline, or should I use 10lb mono. I'm just a bit worried about playing possible 40 pounders on 10lb line.
I think my local lake may permit the use of shock leaders. Are there any benefits from using braid as a mainline, or should I use 10lb mono. I'm just a bit worried about playing possible 40 pounders on 10lb line.
In reply to Post #3
The only worries about using fine lines with big fish is normally the stiffness of the rod, and any snags.
If I'm going for a big cast on my 3.25lb TC rods, and the water is clear, I will use 15lb Gardner Pro to an Amnesia Shock leader. If there are snags or weed, I go straight through, no shockleader.
The reason for no shockleader with snags is so the run ring (I don't use lead clips), can run off any broken line. In clear water, should I get broken off, the run ring should easily go over the knot. A shockleader knot covered in weed, could trap the run ring, and a shockleader could get snagged up in weed or round branches.
Ritchie Macdonald played Basil at over 40lb on 6lb line, although I don't think he was using high test curve fast tapers.
The only worries about using fine lines with big fish is normally the stiffness of the rod, and any snags.
If I'm going for a big cast on my 3.25lb TC rods, and the water is clear, I will use 15lb Gardner Pro to an Amnesia Shock leader. If there are snags or weed, I go straight through, no shockleader.
The reason for no shockleader with snags is so the run ring (I don't use lead clips), can run off any broken line. In clear water, should I get broken off, the run ring should easily go over the knot. A shockleader knot covered in weed, could trap the run ring, and a shockleader could get snagged up in weed or round branches.
Ritchie Macdonald played Basil at over 40lb on 6lb line, although I don't think he was using high test curve fast tapers.
In reply to Post #4
Thanks. My water doesn't have many snags or weed, and my rod is also a 3.25 TC rod, so maybe I could use 10lb line
Thanks. My water doesn't have many snags or weed, and my rod is also a 3.25 TC rod, so maybe I could use 10lb line
It all depends on what rods, what reels and how far you need to cast.
A braided leader is much better not only as there is practically zero loss of power during the cast, it's instant feedback whereas mono is a very wishy-washy even with heavy leaders; when sending leads can easily lead to mistiming.
With a good quality .37 to .38 mono without a leader, 4oz lead, you're looking at around 150yds +/- (caster dependent) with a decent fast taper rod before you crack off. There are exceptions as some of the big casters can bang out the likes of the Shimano TX2 to big ranges and they're not fast taper rods.
With a braided leader and dropping down line diameter to .33, good technique and fast taper rods, 200yds???
Technique needs to be honed like any skill when casting big ranges. Smashing a rod as hard as you can will only get you so far irrespective of the kit you use, be it el chepo or expensive. Also rod dependant is lead size. Some rods will happily cast 4.5oz leads, some, not so much. 4oz to 4.5oz leads will give you maximum range.
A braided leader is much better not only as there is practically zero loss of power during the cast, it's instant feedback whereas mono is a very wishy-washy even with heavy leaders; when sending leads can easily lead to mistiming.
With a good quality .37 to .38 mono without a leader, 4oz lead, you're looking at around 150yds +/- (caster dependent) with a decent fast taper rod before you crack off. There are exceptions as some of the big casters can bang out the likes of the Shimano TX2 to big ranges and they're not fast taper rods.
With a braided leader and dropping down line diameter to .33, good technique and fast taper rods, 200yds???
Technique needs to be honed like any skill when casting big ranges. Smashing a rod as hard as you can will only get you so far irrespective of the kit you use, be it el chepo or expensive. Also rod dependant is lead size. Some rods will happily cast 4.5oz leads, some, not so much. 4oz to 4.5oz leads will give you maximum range.
In reply to Post #6
My rod is quite a cheap rod, a Vader X RS 3.25 TC rod, and I am still searching for a reel to go with it, to be able to achieve some distance. I have heard good things from it, with it being capable of 100yrds+ (maybe max 130 yrds in the right hands with a 4oz-4.5oz lead). I understand though that the 3.5 TC might be able to cast slightly further than the 3.25, but I do expect I will be able to put out a lead to maybe 120yrds with a 3.5-4 oz lead. As you mentioned a good quality mono will be a good casting line, what do you recommend?
My rod is quite a cheap rod, a Vader X RS 3.25 TC rod, and I am still searching for a reel to go with it, to be able to achieve some distance. I have heard good things from it, with it being capable of 100yrds+ (maybe max 130 yrds in the right hands with a 4oz-4.5oz lead). I understand though that the 3.5 TC might be able to cast slightly further than the 3.25, but I do expect I will be able to put out a lead to maybe 120yrds with a 3.5-4 oz lead. As you mentioned a good quality mono will be a good casting line, what do you recommend?
In reply to Post #4
The stiffness of the rod would only be a problem at the net with your drag locked up because the blank won't absorb any energy.
For the rest of the fight you'd be lucky to apply 6lb of pressure without giving yourself a hernia or snapping the rod.
The only reason to use a fast action carp rod is to cast a long way and pick up line better at range, they're rubbish for anything else.
The stiffness of the rod would only be a problem at the net with your drag locked up because the blank won't absorb any energy.
For the rest of the fight you'd be lucky to apply 6lb of pressure without giving yourself a hernia or snapping the rod.
The only reason to use a fast action carp rod is to cast a long way and pick up line better at range, they're rubbish for anything else.
In reply to Post #7
Have you ever cast 120yds before regardless of the rods capabilities? You'd be surprised that how far it actually is.
For safeties sakes, I'd run with 15lb XT Syncro straight through as a starting point and go from there trying the best lead size to suit. What you want to do is start slow and finish fast with level line casting (straight through) so as to avoid crack off's. If you snatch at the cast, that's where you're likely to leave a live rig out in the water.
I don't know the rods you've got, although I can only guess that they're going to have a moderate tip/ action, which you'll have to adjust your casting speed to get that range you want.
Remember this: it's push and pull, push with your hand holding the reel fitting, and pulling the butt section into your body as fast as you possibly can. There are various different stances, watch on YouTube, play about with them and find the one that suits you the best.
Have you ever cast 120yds before regardless of the rods capabilities? You'd be surprised that how far it actually is.
For safeties sakes, I'd run with 15lb XT Syncro straight through as a starting point and go from there trying the best lead size to suit. What you want to do is start slow and finish fast with level line casting (straight through) so as to avoid crack off's. If you snatch at the cast, that's where you're likely to leave a live rig out in the water.
I don't know the rods you've got, although I can only guess that they're going to have a moderate tip/ action, which you'll have to adjust your casting speed to get that range you want.
Remember this: it's push and pull, push with your hand holding the reel fitting, and pulling the butt section into your body as fast as you possibly can. There are various different stances, watch on YouTube, play about with them and find the one that suits you the best.
In reply to Post #9
Thanks mate. Helped a bunch. Will do straight through to start. What line should I use? One thats good quality.
Thanks mate. Helped a bunch. Will do straight through to start. What line should I use? One thats good quality.
In reply to Post #10
Tee Cee has a lot of strong opinions, some good, some not so good. If you are pushing your casting distances with limited technique and or experience using heavy leads (4oz plus) please use either a shock leader or tapered mainline for the sake of the fish and other anglers.
For casting practice/learning a 10-12 mtr 50lb braid (Armacord or similar) leader and 12lb Syncro XT will keep things safe and will reach the distance you want.
Distance casting 4oz plus leads on 15lb straight through is not safe. In my humble opinion of course.
Tee Cee has a lot of strong opinions, some good, some not so good. If you are pushing your casting distances with limited technique and or experience using heavy leads (4oz plus) please use either a shock leader or tapered mainline for the sake of the fish and other anglers.
For casting practice/learning a 10-12 mtr 50lb braid (Armacord or similar) leader and 12lb Syncro XT will keep things safe and will reach the distance you want.
Distance casting 4oz plus leads on 15lb straight through is not safe. In my humble opinion of course.
In reply to Post #10
ESP Syncro XT 15lb non loaded (corrected)
Gold Label Pro clear 16lb
👌
ESP Syncro XT 15lb non loaded (corrected)
Gold Label Pro clear 16lb
👌
In reply to Post #11
Good call 👍
As for the safety side of things: just as long you check your knot, 120yds is fine given the rod the guy is using. I've hit 145yds with 16lb Pro clear, fast taper rod and poo technique for hours, only cracked off after hitting just shy of 150yds on the field. You really would be surprised at how much you have to give it before it goes bang, it really did take me by surprise, and as I'd said in previous posts, it's more down to snatching at the cast when things blow up.
Definitely a good point you make though and safety all around first 😁
Good call 👍
As for the safety side of things: just as long you check your knot, 120yds is fine given the rod the guy is using. I've hit 145yds with 16lb Pro clear, fast taper rod and poo technique for hours, only cracked off after hitting just shy of 150yds on the field. You really would be surprised at how much you have to give it before it goes bang, it really did take me by surprise, and as I'd said in previous posts, it's more down to snatching at the cast when things blow up.
Definitely a good point you make though and safety all around first 😁
In reply to Post #11
Also worth making a point that you need to practice and test leader connections if we are talking fish safety.
@Teecee- it's esp synchro
Also worth making a point that you need to practice and test leader connections if we are talking fish safety.
@Teecee- it's esp synchro
In reply to Post #14
Ha, I should know it by now, I've got spools and spools of the stuff 👍
Ha, I should know it by now, I've got spools and spools of the stuff 👍
In reply to Post #13
In reply to Post #11
Just looked at the Syncro, looks great for the job. I've also heard that gardener and berkley are good lines. Not sure which to choose, but I'm sure all will be suitable. I think once I have my setup ready I'll practise casting and look at some different casting techniques, and see what the results are. Thanks everyone for the information.
Just looked at the Syncro, looks great for the job. I've also heard that gardener and berkley are good lines. Not sure which to choose, but I'm sure all will be suitable. I think once I have my setup ready I'll practise casting and look at some different casting techniques, and see what the results are. Thanks everyone for the information.
Terry Edmunds recommends Gardner Pro Blend. Because it's very supple.
I had a lesson with him and with .35 Gardner Pro light blend and a 3,25 oz lead I did several casts of 154 yards measured.
I was using a Shimano TX9 13ft Intensity rod which is quite stiff but I am a smooth caster.
Terry reckons 160 is the max for .35 without a leader.
My water has a leader ban hence I was using .35 straight through.
During my lesson Terry used a TX4 .28 Mainline and 50lb braided leader ( competition set up) he put a 4ox lead over 214 yards.
I agree with the others that have recommended you use a leader to start with, until you get your timing right or you are likely to crack off.
I had a lesson with him and with .35 Gardner Pro light blend and a 3,25 oz lead I did several casts of 154 yards measured.
I was using a Shimano TX9 13ft Intensity rod which is quite stiff but I am a smooth caster.
Terry reckons 160 is the max for .35 without a leader.
My water has a leader ban hence I was using .35 straight through.
During my lesson Terry used a TX4 .28 Mainline and 50lb braided leader ( competition set up) he put a 4ox lead over 214 yards.
I agree with the others that have recommended you use a leader to start with, until you get your timing right or you are likely to crack off.
In reply to Post #13
I used to use a selection of weighed and drilled solid rubber dog balls when practicing on fields. Loop in the braid leader and lasso the ball. There's the obvious safety aspect and no need to walk every cast down for a plugged lead. Helps bed new lines in also.
Edit: Also don't use casting leaders unless you really have too. It's lazy and poor angling to leave them on if not absolutely necessary. Just adds danger to the fishes life.
I used to use a selection of weighed and drilled solid rubber dog balls when practicing on fields. Loop in the braid leader and lasso the ball. There's the obvious safety aspect and no need to walk every cast down for a plugged lead. Helps bed new lines in also.
Edit: Also don't use casting leaders unless you really have too. It's lazy and poor angling to leave them on if not absolutely necessary. Just adds danger to the fishes life.
In reply to Post #19
So instead of using a shockleader do you think a tapered shockleader would be better? eg such as the ones fox do
So instead of using a shockleader do you think a tapered shockleader would be better? eg such as the ones fox do
In reply to Post #18
Terry recommends you don't use less than 0.37mm for fishing level line at range now.
Terry recommends you don't use less than 0.37mm for fishing level line at range now.
In reply to Post #20
I personally wouldn't use the Fox line, or any Fox line as it's junk so I've found. The Korda stuff is better.
I personally wouldn't use the Fox line, or any Fox line as it's junk so I've found. The Korda stuff is better.
In reply to Post #21
He sure does. On the lesson I was on with him last year, he recommended the ESP SYNCRO XT in the 15lb when I pushed him on the best line to use, suppleness, knot strength, castability etc. Obviously there's new lines coming to the market all the time and that what was the best one year maybe the worst the next.
Maybe he recommended the Gardner line to suit the specific rod and that maybe the 13ft Intensity has more flex than my 12ft Treb Lites? I don't think the TX9 Intensity have been out all that long have they?
He sure does. On the lesson I was on with him last year, he recommended the ESP SYNCRO XT in the 15lb when I pushed him on the best line to use, suppleness, knot strength, castability etc. Obviously there's new lines coming to the market all the time and that what was the best one year maybe the worst the next.
Maybe he recommended the Gardner line to suit the specific rod and that maybe the 13ft Intensity has more flex than my 12ft Treb Lites? I don't think the TX9 Intensity have been out all that long have they?
In reply to Post #24
Hydro tuff in 15lb states it's a 0.38 but I believe it's actually a 0.37 when measured
Hydro tuff in 15lb states it's a 0.38 but I believe it's actually a 0.37 when measured
In reply to Post #22
And what do you base that on as you haven't actually cast with a setup yet? Fair enough, use a leader until you are comfortable, but you don't *have* to use one and many lakes you don't have the option anyway.
Tel recommends the new Outlaw Pro in .35mm for example. I've been using it with 4oz (110gm) leads, no leader, Torrix 12'6 TE's with no problem. MEASURED 132m cast with bait (well, a corkball)
Mentioned it already, you're going round in circles looking at reels, line, now tapered leaders or not. Get a casting lesson - it will be the best money you'll spend, rather than thinking there's a best reel/line/leader that will add yards.
And what do you base that on as you haven't actually cast with a setup yet? Fair enough, use a leader until you are comfortable, but you don't *have* to use one and many lakes you don't have the option anyway.
Tel recommends the new Outlaw Pro in .35mm for example. I've been using it with 4oz (110gm) leads, no leader, Torrix 12'6 TE's with no problem. MEASURED 132m cast with bait (well, a corkball)
Mentioned it already, you're going round in circles looking at reels, line, now tapered leaders or not. Get a casting lesson - it will be the best money you'll spend, rather than thinking there's a best reel/line/leader that will add yards.
In reply to Post #26
Alternatively learn to find the fish and cast to their feeding spots rather than learning to smash a rig way out over the top of them.
Alternatively learn to find the fish and cast to their feeding spots rather than learning to smash a rig way out over the top of them.
In reply to Post #27
The feeding spot is always the far bank Goose, you should know that by now. Plus you and the bloke fishing opposite you can bait up for each other 👌
The feeding spot is always the far bank Goose, you should know that by now. Plus you and the bloke fishing opposite you can bait up for each other 👌
In reply to Post #28
Silly me, should have known that the amount of times I've seen them in the edge under my feet.
Silly me, should have known that the amount of times I've seen them in the edge under my feet.
In reply to Post #21
Fair enough it was 11 months ago I had the lesson with Terry
Fair enough it was 11 months ago I had the lesson with Terry
In reply to Post #27
Maybe the guy wants to fish a *feeding spot* that's at 120yds?
Cut the guy some slack will ya. He asked some specific questions, just answer them without putting your bit in.
The other thing about long range fishing is that it can be an (((edge))) and a distinct advantage over other anglers that can't get to the fish, whereas the long range chap can and will be able to capitalise on suchness, be they well known holdup areas where you always see the fish nutting out without abandon well out the reach of most, or spots you've created where it dissects a route they like to use.
Maybe the guy wants to fish a *feeding spot* that's at 120yds?
Cut the guy some slack will ya. He asked some specific questions, just answer them without putting your bit in.
The other thing about long range fishing is that it can be an (((edge))) and a distinct advantage over other anglers that can't get to the fish, whereas the long range chap can and will be able to capitalise on suchness, be they well known holdup areas where you always see the fish nutting out without abandon well out the reach of most, or spots you've created where it dissects a route they like to use.
In reply to Post #31
Thank you, TeeCee. My lake does have casts of 120 yards, and that is sometimes to reach where the fish are, so I was just trying to find out what is needed to get that distance as previously I have not been able to fish at such ranges.
Thank you, TeeCee. My lake does have casts of 120 yards, and that is sometimes to reach where the fish are, so I was just trying to find out what is needed to get that distance as previously I have not been able to fish at such ranges.
In reply to Post #32
No worries 👍
These sorts of threads can get messy for some reason which I can't grasp, I don't know...it's weird.
It's definitely a great tool to have in your armoury. There's a well know place near me, it's got to be 140'ish yds to the middle from the narrowest points, anyway, after watching what the other guys were doing, that being casting to about 100yds max, watching the water, you could clearly see them troffing in the middle, all out of the way of the anglers rigs...what to do?
Within maybe 15 mins to half an hour I've had a ripping take after casting to the middle. The guy that waded in to land my fish (more like suss my rig out) later told me he'd been there all weekend and only one fish had been out, the place was packed like sardines. Had another 2 or 3 (memory is vague) and did one after a few hours. I'm no super duper angler with super secret rigs and bait, in fact, I'm quite happy to say I'm absolutely s_hit.
No worries 👍
These sorts of threads can get messy for some reason which I can't grasp, I don't know...it's weird.
It's definitely a great tool to have in your armoury. There's a well know place near me, it's got to be 140'ish yds to the middle from the narrowest points, anyway, after watching what the other guys were doing, that being casting to about 100yds max, watching the water, you could clearly see them troffing in the middle, all out of the way of the anglers rigs...what to do?
Within maybe 15 mins to half an hour I've had a ripping take after casting to the middle. The guy that waded in to land my fish (more like suss my rig out) later told me he'd been there all weekend and only one fish had been out, the place was packed like sardines. Had another 2 or 3 (memory is vague) and did one after a few hours. I'm no super duper angler with super secret rigs and bait, in fact, I'm quite happy to say I'm absolutely s_hit.
In reply to Post #33
But it all comes back to technique. Google maps is a great tool these days - I remember way back in the day not being able to hit a spot from the Spit swim on Fordwich, with 2.75lb Tricast ER8-15's, daiwa Emblem 5000t,10lb Big Game line, 30lb Amnesia leader and 3oz Zipp leads. A friend gave me some pointers, and with a following wind I could just about get there. Just measured the casts, and the spot i could get to before he tweaked my casting is 103m, the spot i could get to after is 119m
People were casting big distances before all the modern rods and reels - look at what Maylin (for example) was doing on Harefield.
Sorting your technique is the cheapest way of putting on yards!
But it all comes back to technique. Google maps is a great tool these days - I remember way back in the day not being able to hit a spot from the Spit swim on Fordwich, with 2.75lb Tricast ER8-15's, daiwa Emblem 5000t,10lb Big Game line, 30lb Amnesia leader and 3oz Zipp leads. A friend gave me some pointers, and with a following wind I could just about get there. Just measured the casts, and the spot i could get to before he tweaked my casting is 103m, the spot i could get to after is 119m
People were casting big distances before all the modern rods and reels - look at what Maylin (for example) was doing on Harefield.
Sorting your technique is the cheapest way of putting on yards!
In reply to Post #34
They may well have been hitting biggish ranges way back when, but the line was crazy thin, so thin, I'd go as far as saying outright dangerous for the fishes safety.
I've always been very sceptical of the claimed ranges too. How did they know how far they were casting back then, 'coz a mate said the 3rd bar was at 140's? I don't know...
I'm of the opinion that for simply casting at say 150's repeatedly, it's a combination of good technique, fast taper rod, 5500 or above size reel and a decent casting line at a sensible dia. Good technique will only get you so far.
They may well have been hitting biggish ranges way back when, but the line was crazy thin, so thin, I'd go as far as saying outright dangerous for the fishes safety.
I've always been very sceptical of the claimed ranges too. How did they know how far they were casting back then, 'coz a mate said the 3rd bar was at 140's? I don't know...
I'm of the opinion that for simply casting at say 150's repeatedly, it's a combination of good technique, fast taper rod, 5500 or above size reel and a decent casting line at a sensible dia. Good technique will only get you so far.
In reply to Post #35
Yes, I think its a combo of both. You can't go one without the other. Without the right technique, it won't get you anywhere not matter of what gear you use, and then on the other hand, you do need the right gear to be able to cast out at range! Though Im thinking that technique is more important than gear i think from what everyone has been saying, not just on this thread.
Yes, I think its a combo of both. You can't go one without the other. Without the right technique, it won't get you anywhere not matter of what gear you use, and then on the other hand, you do need the right gear to be able to cast out at range! Though Im thinking that technique is more important than gear i think from what everyone has been saying, not just on this thread.
In reply to Post #35
Yet strangely, we didn't lose many fish?
I can remember pumping back fish from range, covered in weed (captain CAVEMAAAAAAAN!) with 10lb line - lets face it, you wont break 10lb line with the pressure from a rod unless you cut off on a bar/mussel/etc. That said, i use 15lb/.35mm mono and 20lb x-line, because i can now and there's no advantage to thinner lines. But if i had to to hit a spot, and the rules allowed, i would happily.
If you're bored, have a play with google earth, you'll find some of the chucks are what they said!
Yet strangely, we didn't lose many fish?
I can remember pumping back fish from range, covered in weed (captain CAVEMAAAAAAAN!) with 10lb line - lets face it, you wont break 10lb line with the pressure from a rod unless you cut off on a bar/mussel/etc. That said, i use 15lb/.35mm mono and 20lb x-line, because i can now and there's no advantage to thinner lines. But if i had to to hit a spot, and the rules allowed, i would happily.
If you're bored, have a play with google earth, you'll find some of the chucks are what they said!
In reply to Post #34
Agree, technique is king and the fast taper rod, reel and line combination Tcee refers to is to be considered when the caster has the technique, the wrong rod choice may hamper the learning process.
Agree, technique is king and the fast taper rod, reel and line combination Tcee refers to is to be considered when the caster has the technique, the wrong rod choice may hamper the learning process.
In reply to Post #37
Back in the day those lines were under rated anyway and can remember someone testing what sylcast claimed to be 8lb was nearer 14lb.
Back in the day those lines were under rated anyway and can remember someone testing what sylcast claimed to be 8lb was nearer 14lb.
Without the technique you won't be able to cast a fast rod properly, not a chance.
People need to learn to reach the limit of what they have first to know why it is they actually need to change, not just change because it's what Terry Edmonds uses or says casts furthest.
People have been casting 180+ for a long time, because they mastered the technique
People need to learn to reach the limit of what they have first to know why it is they actually need to change, not just change because it's what Terry Edmonds uses or says casts furthest.
People have been casting 180+ for a long time, because they mastered the technique
In reply to Post #39
I used 8lb sylcast back in the day, used the 11lb as a leader, tough as old boots never let me down.
Had to use thin line as the reels were so small
I used 8lb sylcast back in the day, used the 11lb as a leader, tough as old boots never let me down.
Had to use thin line as the reels were so small
In reply to Post #41
55' or 57's?
55' or 57's?
In reply to Post #37
I duknow, I lost my fair share due to using crappy Maxima, the worst of the lot was Bayer Perlon...oh my god.
Big Game deffo changed the game, as did XT (was it XT the one up from Big Game?) when there was nasty snags about.
I duknow, I lost my fair share due to using crappy Maxima, the worst of the lot was Bayer Perlon...oh my god.
Big Game deffo changed the game, as did XT (was it XT the one up from Big Game?) when there was nasty snags about.
Slycast was the best around a 2.5 decades ago. Daiwa Sensor and a shock leader was alright. Since then for me Gardner HD is hard to beat.
In reply to Post #41
9lb they didn't do an 8lb
9lb they didn't do an 8lb
In reply to Post #45
Yes I believe you are correct it was a long time ago mid 80's
Yes I believe you are correct it was a long time ago mid 80's
In reply to Post #42
I had 55's and 57's Then the first bait runners
All very small by today's standards
I had 55's and 57's Then the first bait runners
All very small by today's standards
I had a set of Mitchel RDs and Matches so pleased I ditched them hen for Emblem Golds none the less prior to that I had a set of Camcads by browning which although maybe not as good as the shimanos they where Defiantly bigger. A set of Biomaster which where well made yet heavier and the line guards sucked I set to the naughty step to be Marker and Spod reels which they did well for many a year.
Any way my conclusion is reels for lines as I don't like shock leaders so 12lb on Emblems upto 110 yards 15lb line on ISOs around the same and 20lb on Tourney 6ks again around the same with a PVA bag. I'm not a great caster by any stretch have seen a pal cast a 9lb line and shock leader with baited rig 150 yards many years ago.
Any way my conclusion is reels for lines as I don't like shock leaders so 12lb on Emblems upto 110 yards 15lb line on ISOs around the same and 20lb on Tourney 6ks again around the same with a PVA bag. I'm not a great caster by any stretch have seen a pal cast a 9lb line and shock leader with baited rig 150 yards many years ago.
In reply to Post #5
3.25lb TC Rods willl usually as a rule of thumb handle 3-3.5 ounce leads 4lb BS line for every ounce of lead so 12 to 14 lb line and that's chancing it IMO. So 15lb line for a 3.5 ounce lead and expect to achieve 110 to 115 yards tops as an average fella imho.
I'm fairly certain others that do cast further use shock leaders and probably lighter lines I may be wrong.
3.25lb TC Rods willl usually as a rule of thumb handle 3-3.5 ounce leads 4lb BS line for every ounce of lead so 12 to 14 lb line and that's chancing it IMO. So 15lb line for a 3.5 ounce lead and expect to achieve 110 to 115 yards tops as an average fella imho.
I'm fairly certain others that do cast further use shock leaders and probably lighter lines I may be wrong.
In reply to Post #49
That's interesting. For sea fishing they recommend 10pb of line for every oz of lead. Any idea which one is more accurate?
That's interesting. For sea fishing they recommend 10pb of line for every oz of lead. Any idea which one is more accurate?
In reply to Post #50
Most sea distance rods are stiffer than carp rods. People also tend to use pendulum/OTG casts. Plus leads are bigger - a cracked off 6oz breakaway lead travelling along the beach at Dungie in prime cod season doesn't bear thinking about.......
Most sea distance rods are stiffer than carp rods. People also tend to use pendulum/OTG casts. Plus leads are bigger - a cracked off 6oz breakaway lead travelling along the beach at Dungie in prime cod season doesn't bear thinking about.......
In reply to Post #51
A cracked off 3oz lead can make a mess. I've embedded a distance lead into a tree on the far bank. If that was a person they'd be deaded😱😔😮
For years I stuck with 10lbs of breaking strain per ounce as I go sea fishing as well as carp fishing. Carp fishing With 8-10lb line that we were using on 4000 Aero GTE's and 3oz leads if you went for it big time you would crack off, a leader became standard. (In my case it was Drennan Weasel or Amnesia)
Now we have moved up to 15lb line pretty much as standard, there seems to be less crack-offs. That may be down to 'over rated lines, smoother casting or even more balanced tackle.
A cracked off 3oz lead can make a mess. I've embedded a distance lead into a tree on the far bank. If that was a person they'd be deaded😱😔😮
For years I stuck with 10lbs of breaking strain per ounce as I go sea fishing as well as carp fishing. Carp fishing With 8-10lb line that we were using on 4000 Aero GTE's and 3oz leads if you went for it big time you would crack off, a leader became standard. (In my case it was Drennan Weasel or Amnesia)
Now we have moved up to 15lb line pretty much as standard, there seems to be less crack-offs. That may be down to 'over rated lines, smoother casting or even more balanced tackle.
In reply to Post #52
Wasn't there a guy over Walthamstow No:1 that copped a Zipp lead in the chest with just the swivel hanging out?
Wasn't there a guy over Walthamstow No:1 that copped a Zipp lead in the chest with just the swivel hanging out?
Firstly I won't hit a lead hard if someone is on the opposite bank incase I crack off. Crack offs usually occur for two reasons bail arms (previously closing or not being opened) and line twist that causes the line to wrap round either the tip ring or the first ring due to trapping ok 3 reasons. I've never cracked off for any other reason although I don't cast beyond 110 yards however many years again a pal was hitting 150 yards regularly with 9lb mainline and a 15lb shock leader using a 2 3/4 zip lead.
My advice is don't chance it, I was always told as a rule of thumb 4lb BS for every ounce of lead. Line will suffer fatigue and MOST importantly don't cast when anyone is opposite you as any line can break due to a various reasons (damage etc) and once that lead is free from line it's going to travel serious distance and the last thing anyone wants is someone else being hit by it.
Leads are literally missiles.
Plenty of people have been hit by leads purely pulling for a break. You are loading the gun. Never walk away with you back to the lead seriously dangerous. With experience you can gage the force being applied to the line and lead and using heavier lines in the 20lb plus serious give some kick back.
Be careful and opt for what you feel safe and confident with.
My advice is don't chance it, I was always told as a rule of thumb 4lb BS for every ounce of lead. Line will suffer fatigue and MOST importantly don't cast when anyone is opposite you as any line can break due to a various reasons (damage etc) and once that lead is free from line it's going to travel serious distance and the last thing anyone wants is someone else being hit by it.
Leads are literally missiles.
Plenty of people have been hit by leads purely pulling for a break. You are loading the gun. Never walk away with you back to the lead seriously dangerous. With experience you can gage the force being applied to the line and lead and using heavier lines in the 20lb plus serious give some kick back.
Be careful and opt for what you feel safe and confident with.
In reply to Post #52
I've been using 15 to 20lb shock leaders during the late 90s for a very good reason. In fact I've stopped using light lines for 15 odd years for this very reason and prefer to have large spoiled reels that allow me to cast distance and use 12-20lb lines straight through. My 12lb line will see a 2-2.1/4 ounce lead whereas I'd stick a 3-3.5 ounce lead of a 15lb line and 4 Oz on to 20lb line not fearing a crack off, all being well. I state this as they all can given bail arm or line twist and a wrap around the last eye. I may crack off (excuse me) once every year of two which utterly pisses me off for good reason most of all a rig is now unattended and it's not cheap.
Good advice I totally agree with you.'
I've been using 15 to 20lb shock leaders during the late 90s for a very good reason. In fact I've stopped using light lines for 15 odd years for this very reason and prefer to have large spoiled reels that allow me to cast distance and use 12-20lb lines straight through. My 12lb line will see a 2-2.1/4 ounce lead whereas I'd stick a 3-3.5 ounce lead of a 15lb line and 4 Oz on to 20lb line not fearing a crack off, all being well. I state this as they all can given bail arm or line twist and a wrap around the last eye. I may crack off (excuse me) once every year of two which utterly pisses me off for good reason most of all a rig is now unattended and it's not cheap.
Good advice I totally agree with you.'
OK line that goes behind the spool, fatigued line that's suffers multiple casts or line that's been damaged
In reply to Post #49
110 with 15lb 0.35 line is easy work
110 with 15lb 0.35 line is easy work
In reply to Post #57
If there's room to cast properly
If there's room to cast properly
Hi all,
Late to this post, but for distance casting does the diameter help prevent crack offs or is it more the breaking strain. Reason I ask is I've tested XT in 12lb vs gardner pro dark in 15lb and in a few "pull against eachother" tests actually the 12lb xt is stronger than the gardner 15. However I've seen people say they'd happily use 0.35 straight through for distance which the gardner is however the xt is only 0.33 or even thinner actually.
I'm only really looking to cast 100 yards, just wonder if the 12lb xt will be safe straight through or should I opt for the gardner in 15 for the diameter
Thanks
D
Late to this post, but for distance casting does the diameter help prevent crack offs or is it more the breaking strain. Reason I ask is I've tested XT in 12lb vs gardner pro dark in 15lb and in a few "pull against eachother" tests actually the 12lb xt is stronger than the gardner 15. However I've seen people say they'd happily use 0.35 straight through for distance which the gardner is however the xt is only 0.33 or even thinner actually.
I'm only really looking to cast 100 yards, just wonder if the 12lb xt will be safe straight through or should I opt for the gardner in 15 for the diameter
Thanks
D
In reply to Post #49
Been faffing with my setup lately for distance and took the new setup.to a.field today to test.
Into a decent headwind I managed to get a 2oz lead 100yds and a 3oz lead 112
This was using gardner covert rod 12ft 3.25lb
Synchro xt 12lb (no leader)
Okuma pit reel
Was only trying to get this setup to 100yds with no leader and happy to say with minimal practise it was possible.
Hope that's useful as a reference for anyone
Been faffing with my setup lately for distance and took the new setup.to a.field today to test.
Into a decent headwind I managed to get a 2oz lead 100yds and a 3oz lead 112
This was using gardner covert rod 12ft 3.25lb
Synchro xt 12lb (no leader)
Okuma pit reel
Was only trying to get this setup to 100yds with no leader and happy to say with minimal practise it was possible.
Hope that's useful as a reference for anyone
In reply to Post #60
You may find you get further with a 3.5 oz lead
You may find you get further with a 3.5 oz lead
In reply to Post #61
Definitely, was a little cautious today and didn't take my 3.5oz but think that will be the answer if I want to hit 120.
Mignt be pushing my luck a little there on the 12lb straight through
Definitely, was a little cautious today and didn't take my 3.5oz but think that will be the answer if I want to hit 120.
Mignt be pushing my luck a little there on the 12lb straight through
Being able to fish accurate and long has massive advantages on some waters. I'd say the top 4-5 lads on my current lake are all big casters and have outcaught the rest by being able to get closer to there comfort area deep in the middle of a 70 acre lake.
But this requires shockleaders. Wouldn't attempt 160 yards without one personally
But this requires shockleaders. Wouldn't attempt 160 yards without one personally
Reading ALL pages