This is most likely a stupid question but I have some 12ft free spirit s lites 3.5tc I like the plain black look of them, apart from the little silver bits above, below the reel seats and the silver butt cap.
I was just wondering if there is any black paint I can buy to paint these black to match the rods or do I have to send them off to a rod builder to change it all. I wouldn't mind painting themselves I'm very good at painting but just don't want to get something that will either wash off or just fall off in the rain
Thanks I'm advance
I was just wondering if there is any black paint I can buy to paint these black to match the rods or do I have to send them off to a rod builder to change it all. I wouldn't mind painting themselves I'm very good at painting but just don't want to get something that will either wash off or just fall off in the rain
Thanks I'm advance
In reply to Post #1
Have you thought about using carbon effect vinyl tape/sheets I've had some good results on reel seats that we're black but have polished through whilst being in holdals, I buy off cuts what the car custom lads use of eBay simply get the area warm with either a fan heater or hairdryer and apply and remove the excess with a sharp blade and simple to remove if you change your mind later
Have you thought about using carbon effect vinyl tape/sheets I've had some good results on reel seats that we're black but have polished through whilst being in holdals, I buy off cuts what the car custom lads use of eBay simply get the area warm with either a fan heater or hairdryer and apply and remove the excess with a sharp blade and simple to remove if you change your mind later
In reply to Post #1
If you do go for paint use an etching primer to improve adhesion.
Tape sounds a good idea though.
If you do go for paint use an etching primer to improve adhesion.
Tape sounds a good idea though.
Personally I would go the tape route also. Even with A Etch primer, it would still easily chip/ scratch.
If the tape started to lift, just remove and replace. I did this on my old scopes with black electrical tape trimmed down. Just renewed it probably once a year.
If you know anyone who does sign writing for vehicles better still, as the vinyl is more apply able, especially with a little heat.
If the tape started to lift, just remove and replace. I did this on my old scopes with black electrical tape trimmed down. Just renewed it probably once a year.
If you know anyone who does sign writing for vehicles better still, as the vinyl is more apply able, especially with a little heat.
In reply to Post #1
Going forward,
The black painted reel seats on my daiwa magnum tapers wore away and figured out it was the 2 sections of the rod rubbing together that was causing it.
I've since figured out that Nash do a chod rig cover set....the bigger part of it velcroes over your reel seat in transit to stop it happening again
Going forward,
The black painted reel seats on my daiwa magnum tapers wore away and figured out it was the 2 sections of the rod rubbing together that was causing it.
I've since figured out that Nash do a chod rig cover set....the bigger part of it velcroes over your reel seat in transit to stop it happening again
Tape sounds like a good idea, when you put it on does it look cheap? Or does it look alright. Plus does it look good? Don't want it to look nasty would rather send it to a rod builder to do if it don't look right
In reply to Post #6
Personally I would go for 2 component lacquer. I live in the Netherlands and we sell spray cans in which the 2 components are present. You have to put in a plug at the bottom, this punctures the 'wall' that seperates both parts within the can. Then shake the can for about 2 minutes to get the 2 parts to mix properly.
This is a very durable solution. Plus I would make sure both rod parts don't rub together.
Personally I would go for 2 component lacquer. I live in the Netherlands and we sell spray cans in which the 2 components are present. You have to put in a plug at the bottom, this punctures the 'wall' that seperates both parts within the can. Then shake the can for about 2 minutes to get the 2 parts to mix properly.
This is a very durable solution. Plus I would make sure both rod parts don't rub together.
In reply to Post #6
A sheet will cost between £3 & £5 or more depending on the size with practice you can get fantastic results that's the best way to put it, I once did some optonics which was fun NOT the secret I've found is to get it warm and apply under tension and make sure there's no grease from your hands, if your not happy with the results just simply warm back up and peel off ,I've done kids Xbox controllers loads off stuff. There's stuff on YouTube of it being used I got the idea from doing motor bike bits
A sheet will cost between £3 & £5 or more depending on the size with practice you can get fantastic results that's the best way to put it, I once did some optonics which was fun NOT the secret I've found is to get it warm and apply under tension and make sure there's no grease from your hands, if your not happy with the results just simply warm back up and peel off ,I've done kids Xbox controllers loads off stuff. There's stuff on YouTube of it being used I got the idea from doing motor bike bits
In reply to Post #8
Presumably that's similar or the same as a car pvc wrap?
I would think if it's good enough for supercar bumpers then it should be ok for a fishing rod.
Presumably that's similar or the same as a car pvc wrap?
I would think if it's good enough for supercar bumpers then it should be ok for a fishing rod.
In reply to Post #9
Yep that's the stuff
Yep that's the stuff
In reply to Post #1
Pretty sure they're stainless, so etch primer as a matter of course if painting.
The butt cap you can replace with a delrin one for a couple of quid.
Pretty sure they're stainless, so etch primer as a matter of course if painting.
The butt cap you can replace with a delrin one for a couple of quid.
In reply to Post #11
Is it easy enough to replace them bud?
Is it easy enough to replace them bud?
In reply to Post #1
If you do decide to go down the paint route you may consider Hammerite Smooth black, no primer needed and with a very small artist type brush you can get into small area's, very good finish.
If you do decide to go down the paint route you may consider Hammerite Smooth black, no primer needed and with a very small artist type brush you can get into small area's, very good finish.
In reply to Post #13
Stainless is a bit sketchy with paint, I'd always use an appropriate primer now after having a few "direct to metal" type paints flake/peel away. I know at least once it was hammerite that peeled off, not sure which type tho
Stainless is a bit sketchy with paint, I'd always use an appropriate primer now after having a few "direct to metal" type paints flake/peel away. I know at least once it was hammerite that peeled off, not sure which type tho
In reply to Post #14
Personally I would go for a good primer and a 2 K lacquer. Hammerite wouldn't be my first choice.
Personally I would go for a good primer and a 2 K lacquer. Hammerite wouldn't be my first choice.
In reply to Post #15
Agreed, I think I'd use tape tho
I've only recently started using lacquers, but I'm finding a clear coat makes a world of difference with wear resistance.
Mind you I've had insulating tape on my reel seat hoods for 18 months, with the adhesive oozing out when it's warm
Agreed, I think I'd use tape tho
I've only recently started using lacquers, but I'm finding a clear coat makes a world of difference with wear resistance.
Mind you I've had insulating tape on my reel seat hoods for 18 months, with the adhesive oozing out when it's warm
In reply to Post #16
Vinyl wrap is much better than insulation tape.
Vinyl wrap is much better than insulation tape.
In reply to Post #14
Stainless is definitely tricky as you say. Some years ago I read some info about this from a specialist stainless finisher.
Adhesion of the base coat is probably hardest to achieve but after that it's relatively straight forward.
To get good results you must first degrease and abrade the surface in some way, not only to provide a key but also to remove the chromium oxide before immediately applying your specialist primer.
The oxide returns in a few hours so all needs to be done ASAP.
Stainless is definitely tricky as you say. Some years ago I read some info about this from a specialist stainless finisher.
Adhesion of the base coat is probably hardest to achieve but after that it's relatively straight forward.
To get good results you must first degrease and abrade the surface in some way, not only to provide a key but also to remove the chromium oxide before immediately applying your specialist primer.
The oxide returns in a few hours so all needs to be done ASAP.
In reply to Post #18
Would smooth Hammerite work
Would smooth Hammerite work
In reply to Post #19
All things will work to a degree but some better than others. Hammerite will not adhere well and would still need a specialist primer. Even then some other paints would probably resist mechanical damage better.
All things will work to a degree but some better than others. Hammerite will not adhere well and would still need a specialist primer. Even then some other paints would probably resist mechanical damage better.
In reply to Post #7
That sounds very interesting.
Do you do that spray can system in any colours or black?
Presumably you would need a good mask when using.
That sounds very interesting.
Do you do that spray can system in any colours or black?
Presumably you would need a good mask when using.
In reply to Post #21
From researching for a solution to "varnishing" rod blanks, these 2-part cans are not the cheapest option and have a very short shelf life once the can has been popped - something like 24hrs.
To the OP - Butt cap is simple - as Noj pointed out - the other parts - I assume this is a trim part between the butt and reel seat and a winding check transitioning the foregrip to the blank?
For these parts to be replaced is not going to be cheap compared to a paint job or vinyl.
From researching for a solution to "varnishing" rod blanks, these 2-part cans are not the cheapest option and have a very short shelf life once the can has been popped - something like 24hrs.
To the OP - Butt cap is simple - as Noj pointed out - the other parts - I assume this is a trim part between the butt and reel seat and a winding check transitioning the foregrip to the blank?
For these parts to be replaced is not going to be cheap compared to a paint job or vinyl.
In reply to Post #22
There are a few options for DIY bike painting that should work well on rods, my carbon road bike is translucent green
You can get the 2k paint cans in any colour you like, not sure on cost for non standard tho. A clear coat is advisable to avoid wear
By the time you've bought primer laquer clearcoat masking and wet and dry your half way to the cost of a rebuild
Vinyl tape and a delrin cap seems the best option to me
There are a few options for DIY bike painting that should work well on rods, my carbon road bike is translucent green
You can get the 2k paint cans in any colour you like, not sure on cost for non standard tho. A clear coat is advisable to avoid wear
By the time you've bought primer laquer clearcoat masking and wet and dry your half way to the cost of a rebuild
Vinyl tape and a delrin cap seems the best option to me
In reply to Post #22
Yes like any 2 pack paint the can would no doubt need to be used almost immediately.
However it might be another option for someone who hasn't spraying equipment but wants a hard wearing paint finish.
I don't know the cost of these cans but might be cheaper than sending the rods away to a rod builder.
Just something else for him to consider as he did ask about good paint.
Yes like any 2 pack paint the can would no doubt need to be used almost immediately.
However it might be another option for someone who hasn't spraying equipment but wants a hard wearing paint finish.
I don't know the cost of these cans but might be cheaper than sending the rods away to a rod builder.
Just something else for him to consider as he did ask about good paint.
In reply to Post #1
Use tape or vinyl, and use a razor blade to get the edges correct.
2 min job and will save a lot of money /hassle swapping collars.
Swap the cap for a Delrin one.
Use tape or vinyl, and use a razor blade to get the edges correct.
2 min job and will save a lot of money /hassle swapping collars.
Swap the cap for a Delrin one.
Thanks for all the comments and recommendations everyone I appreciate it.
I've been in contact with a rod builder and to replace it all really isn't going to cost me that much, no where near what I expected and the turn around time is pretty quick aswell so I'm just going to do that I think that way I no it's done right.
I've been in contact with a rod builder and to replace it all really isn't going to cost me that much, no where near what I expected and the turn around time is pretty quick aswell so I'm just going to do that I think that way I no it's done right.
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