I've ordered some bits to knock up a little camera support widget, the main body I'll make from Ali billet, but I was going to use brass for the threads, do I need to use something to prevent bimetallic corrosion?

In reply to Post #1
I always thought that bimetallic reaction was between any form of mild/galvanised steel and any other dissimilar metal, I work with and use a lot of stainless steel in construction fitted to mild steel frames and they always have to be isolated from each other, it also has a lot to do with the amount of surface area covered the greater the area with stainless the quicker and more accelerated the corrosion, I would of thought aluminum and brass would be fine.

In reply to Post #2
I'm not sure mate, but lots of metals react with each other. I've had grief in the past with galvanised steel and copper, steel and copper....
Google says aluminium and brass are a no no but most fishing metalware is Ali with brass threads
In fact it says Ali, brass and stainless shouldn't be mixed with each other especially in threaded joints

In reply to Post #3
Yes strange one, I've never had an issue with brass inserts with ali or stainless just about mixed matched all forms of these with banksticks, landing nets, buzz bars and angle adapters from Gardner, Jag and Solar never seen anything untoward.

In reply to Post #4
Yeh me neither, I'll see if the resident metallurgist pipes up before I order the rod though

It'll have some expensive kit mounted on it so I thought I'd check

In reply to Post #5
Google the galvanic chart Dave, it'll tell what's compatible with what.

Edit: neither brass or ali rust like steel as there's no iron in them. You might get some white/green residue but tbh I'd not worry about it too much mate.

In reply to Post #6
Thanks mate, I'd have to have a science lesson to understand that chart, I cut wood for a living

It looked to me like Ali shouldn't be mixed with brass or stainless, but if it's not gonna rot I'll carry on

proud boast.
the brass on my Defiant pod had developed a blue-white crust after 3 years on the floor of a damp garage.
1 week in a cup of ketchup and they were like new.

At work we use red fibre washers between brass and galv material 👍

In reply to Post #9
I'll probably set the threads in place with epoxy, that should help keep them separated and also stop them coming loose.

In reply to Post #6
Baffled me as looking at the Stainless/Nickel likelihood of corrosion it is a definite that there would be reaction yet both 304 and 316 stainless has albeit a lowish Nickel content of 8 to 14% and from what I believe is what drives the price behind the cost of buying stainless, am I missing something is it that contact between the two separate isolated materials causes the reaction if not isolated from each other rather than it being included in the raw state material.

In reply to Post #11
I was lost at cathodes and anodes

I would have thought the only time you will need to even vaguely worry about it is if it gets wet
I'm sure you won't be letting camera get wet.
Depending on camera you may even have a stainless thread in the bottom of that so you will now have 3 metals to worry about lol

In reply to Post #13
My camera is well sealed, I have no qualms about using it in a shower, the mount though will be used when fishing and will stay on the bankstick overnight. A head then mounts above this with a quick release mechanism so I just have to clip the camera in and its good to go, no messing about lining everything up.

So yes it will get wet

I'm not sure if any catalyst was involved but I've found holes in copper pipes where they've been contacting galvanised steel, and that's in weeks in a dry environment (at least it was before the holes appeared )

In reply to Post #7
The aluminium will sacrificially corrode before the brass so if the main body is aluminium then presumably you will more metal to sacrifice so I wouldn't worry too much.
If you really wanted to be fussy you could use anti corrosion compounds or better still fit a fibre washer between the parts as per hitman.
Always better with a washer to mechanically protect the parts anyway.

I also cut wood but only as a hobby / for my own use. Enjoyable job you've got there I would think.

In reply to Post #15
I don't think a washer will help me much, to keep costs down I'm machining the body from Ali and tapping the female threads. Buying brass bolts in the threads I want and cutting them is working out the cheapest way to buy it considering I want about an inch of two different threads.

It'll make a change to work with something that does as its told

In reply to Post #16
Might be worth considering aluminium threaded bar.
If your happy it's strong enough I'm sure you know to put a bit of grease on the threads to avoid pick up.
Failing that and no doubt stronger some threaded bar in plated steel or stainless.

In reply to Post #16
I like to see a bit of ingenuity. Picture please when you've finished

In reply to Post #17
Ali threaded bar pushed the price up and left a lot of waste, I'm also wary of Ali threads as its pretty soft. I'd have to cut plated steel which leaves a problem area.

I'm pretty happy with the design and have ordered the bits now apart from the adhesive. I'll have a router out tomorrow and lots of scrap mdf, hopefully I get a chance to knock up the jigs

I might do a pic Bob, I'm copying a patented design with some key changes so it shouldn't get copied by.a tackle company

The machining was pretty easy with a spiral cutter in a router, and a tidy up on the lathe (the lathe was I bit hairy actually) I'm waiting for the taps to arrive now

I'm really tempted to get some Ali tube and some Ti rod to make some sticks and Swan neck bars
Can you use hss drills/taps/files on Ti or do you need something harder?