Keen to get more distance from my distance set up . . .and never used a tapered mainline
Unless I'm being thick; is the only accurate way to spool a tapered mainline using a spare spool, spooling up with backer and then reeling on the reel spool in reverse? Never like doing this with mono as its just adding unnecessary line twist / more coils however with varying line diameter cannot think of any other satisfactory way!
Also - is it wise to 'under-spool' slightly leaving a lip or better to fill to the brim . . ?
In hindsite - is it far simpler / cheaper to just use a low diameter mainline with a long tapered shock leader? (admittedly you then have a line to line joining knot but how many real world yards do you lose with this set up vs a tapered mainline) ???
Unless I'm being thick; is the only accurate way to spool a tapered mainline using a spare spool, spooling up with backer and then reeling on the reel spool in reverse? Never like doing this with mono as its just adding unnecessary line twist / more coils however with varying line diameter cannot think of any other satisfactory way!
Also - is it wise to 'under-spool' slightly leaving a lip or better to fill to the brim . . ?
In hindsite - is it far simpler / cheaper to just use a low diameter mainline with a long tapered shock leader? (admittedly you then have a line to line joining knot but how many real world yards do you lose with this set up vs a tapered mainline) ???
In reply to Post #1
Think the tapered mainlines are more to get around ‘no leader' rules than extra distance.
Think the tapered mainlines are more to get around ‘no leader' rules than extra distance.
In reply to Post #1
re spooling up from a spare spool -
Load the line onto the spare spool using the pencil through the center method until you get to your required fill level. When you then load the line onto your fishing spool, make sure the line comes off the spare spool off the top / open bail arm & reel in through a damp cloth near your reel. what should happen is the line leaves the first spool, gets loaded onto the spare spool with a single twist for every revolution of the bail arm. Then for the next load, the twist is released as the line comes off the top of the spool & then is added as it is loaded again onto your final spool. There may be some slight differences with spool diameters based on how full the spool is but it should pretty much cancel it out over a couple of big casts. good luck mate
re spooling up from a spare spool -
Load the line onto the spare spool using the pencil through the center method until you get to your required fill level. When you then load the line onto your fishing spool, make sure the line comes off the spare spool off the top / open bail arm & reel in through a damp cloth near your reel. what should happen is the line leaves the first spool, gets loaded onto the spare spool with a single twist for every revolution of the bail arm. Then for the next load, the twist is released as the line comes off the top of the spool & then is added as it is loaded again onto your final spool. There may be some slight differences with spool diameters based on how full the spool is but it should pretty much cancel it out over a couple of big casts. good luck mate
In reply to Post #1
If you dont have the spare spool option you can remove it on distance sticks and reel it back on so the backing is the right way round.
Another option is just counting the reel handle turns and do the same on the next spools.
I really like the tapered as im not keen on that knot when using a shock leader. I would only very slightly underfill as the thick end can be more wirey so more likely to spring off.
If you dont have the spare spool option you can remove it on distance sticks and reel it back on so the backing is the right way round.
Another option is just counting the reel handle turns and do the same on the next spools.
I really like the tapered as im not keen on that knot when using a shock leader. I would only very slightly underfill as the thick end can be more wirey so more likely to spring off.
In reply to Post #4
I have spare spools but just don't like the tighter coils created at the back end of the spool even with spool reducers (6000Ts in this instance) . . . thought about counting turns but that still means one spool with more twist whilst the other two would be direct off the retail spool? Unless I just bite the bullet / get a spare spool of tapered and bin it after ascertaining the number of turns . . .
Maybe I'm overthinking it! Looks like reverse spare spool is the only realistic option. What if I spooled on 'dry' and then respooled (from the spare spool) mega wet and under increased tension after soaking . . ?
I have spare spools but just don't like the tighter coils created at the back end of the spool even with spool reducers (6000Ts in this instance) . . . thought about counting turns but that still means one spool with more twist whilst the other two would be direct off the retail spool? Unless I just bite the bullet / get a spare spool of tapered and bin it after ascertaining the number of turns . . .
Maybe I'm overthinking it! Looks like reverse spare spool is the only realistic option. What if I spooled on 'dry' and then respooled (from the spare spool) mega wet and under increased tension after soaking . . ?
In reply to Post #5
I did the spare spool thing with normal Korda longchuck and had no issues at all with line twist
so I can't imagine it being that different with tapered line.
I did the spare spool thing with normal Korda longchuck and had no issues at all with line twist
so I can't imagine it being that different with tapered line.
In reply to Post #6
Normal longchuck is a consistent stated diameter - if you match the backing line (as the same diameter) then there's no need to reverse spool as you can wrap out (minus the total new longchuck spool and simply reel on directly!
Normal longchuck is a consistent stated diameter - if you match the backing line (as the same diameter) then there's no need to reverse spool as you can wrap out (minus the total new longchuck spool and simply reel on directly!
In reply to Post #7
could do if I owned wrapping sticks
could do if I owned wrapping sticks
In reply to Post #8
Why would you not have wrap sticks? One of the best carp fishing inventions of the last 20 years in my humble opinion, and available for less than 10 of your English pounds.
Why would you not have wrap sticks? One of the best carp fishing inventions of the last 20 years in my humble opinion, and available for less than 10 of your English pounds.
In reply to Post #8
Use bamboo canes or 2 bank sticks at a push
Use bamboo canes or 2 bank sticks at a push
In reply to Post #9
In reply to Post #9
Wrapping has been around much longer than that. We were doing that with cut off bank sticks in the late 80's, down in Cornwwll....
In reply to Post #9
Wrapping has been around much longer than that. We were doing that with cut off bank sticks in the late 80's, down in Cornwwll....
In reply to Post #5
I had a flirtation with tapered line and this is how I spooled mine...
I put the spool of tapered mainline (300m, with a shockie section at both ends) onto an empty reel spool, finished it with a single turn of tape, then used old mono to fill it to the brim.
I then took the old mono (backing) off the reel spool and transferred to an empty line spool using a drill.
I then took the tapered main line off my reel spool and transferred to another empty line spool.
I then put the backing line onto my reel spool. At this stage you can count the turns, and replicate for the other spools.
Once all the backing is on you then finish off with a couple of turns of insulation tape, as in the picture below.
You can now put the tapered mono back onto your reel spool and it will be perfectly loaded to the brim. Repeat with other spools.
My flirt with tapered mono wasn't very successful as I used the korda subline and it was beyond terrible. I could break the 12lb like it was cotton. I got my money back.
Now I'm happy just using tough heavy mono.
Read all about it, here;
https://www.carpforum.co.uk/Shared/Messages.asp?TopicID=441008&ReadAll=1
I had a flirtation with tapered line and this is how I spooled mine...
I put the spool of tapered mainline (300m, with a shockie section at both ends) onto an empty reel spool, finished it with a single turn of tape, then used old mono to fill it to the brim.
I then took the old mono (backing) off the reel spool and transferred to an empty line spool using a drill.
I then took the tapered main line off my reel spool and transferred to another empty line spool.
I then put the backing line onto my reel spool. At this stage you can count the turns, and replicate for the other spools.
Once all the backing is on you then finish off with a couple of turns of insulation tape, as in the picture below.
You can now put the tapered mono back onto your reel spool and it will be perfectly loaded to the brim. Repeat with other spools.
My flirt with tapered mono wasn't very successful as I used the korda subline and it was beyond terrible. I could break the 12lb like it was cotton. I got my money back.
Now I'm happy just using tough heavy mono.
Read all about it, here;
https://www.carpforum.co.uk/Shared/Messages.asp?TopicID=441008&ReadAll=1