What would you choose for pallets and small branches ,logs,windfall and why ?
In reply to Post #1
Ps it should say pruning blades on the intro
Ps it should say pruning blades on the intro
In reply to Post #1
Depends on your experience with a chainsaw. I would think it would be quicker but more likely to put a groove in some part of you if the worse happens. Battery chainsaws work well now but you still need to be careful.
Ive been into felling, logging etc for many years and have some decent petrol chainsaws which are fine for the round wood but I would still be a little nervous / careful with pallets. The boards can be under tension and pinch bars or blades.
You need to be VERY careful with pallets.
Have a Google of chainsaw kickback if you haven't used a chainsaw before.
Recip would be safest for pallets but chainsaw quicker for round wood. Depends on what quantities of both you intend to cut.
If you intend to do large quantities a chainsaw will be easier to sharpen than a pruning saw blade which you would probably just replace anyway.
Depends on your experience with a chainsaw. I would think it would be quicker but more likely to put a groove in some part of you if the worse happens. Battery chainsaws work well now but you still need to be careful.
Ive been into felling, logging etc for many years and have some decent petrol chainsaws which are fine for the round wood but I would still be a little nervous / careful with pallets. The boards can be under tension and pinch bars or blades.
You need to be VERY careful with pallets.
Have a Google of chainsaw kickback if you haven't used a chainsaw before.
Recip would be safest for pallets but chainsaw quicker for round wood. Depends on what quantities of both you intend to cut.
If you intend to do large quantities a chainsaw will be easier to sharpen than a pruning saw blade which you would probably just replace anyway.
In reply to Post #3
Thanks for info...yes,I have access to a lot of woodland,and pallets ,so enough for a coupla winters at least ..
I've not used a recip as a pruner ,but can get replacement blades very easy ,...chainsaw, lots of experience with stihl two strokes mainly ,done a course at Duchy ,so ...anyway I have no experience of the battery chainsaws,the small arborist version,like what Western Power use up on the Cherry pickers,when used one handed..
I'm just in two minds ,to go recip or chainsaw ,as its gotta be earmuff friendly,quiet as possible...
Can get a de walt bare unit chainsaw,as I have 18v batteries already..
Nb ,this is intended for light work,as I have a very big pro Silkey anyway ,as its a pull saw,I I'd need a solid base or it grabs..hence looking for small,light and quiet..ie,cut ,bag ,go...!
Pallets,yes gotta mind the nails etc..this why I was thinking recip....
Decisions,decisions...any more thoughts appreciated..
(I'm a groundsman / gardner,big private site etc),..and my brain is fried from youtubeitus..
Thanks for info...yes,I have access to a lot of woodland,and pallets ,so enough for a coupla winters at least ..
I've not used a recip as a pruner ,but can get replacement blades very easy ,...chainsaw, lots of experience with stihl two strokes mainly ,done a course at Duchy ,so ...anyway I have no experience of the battery chainsaws,the small arborist version,like what Western Power use up on the Cherry pickers,when used one handed..
I'm just in two minds ,to go recip or chainsaw ,as its gotta be earmuff friendly,quiet as possible...
Can get a de walt bare unit chainsaw,as I have 18v batteries already..
Nb ,this is intended for light work,as I have a very big pro Silkey anyway ,as its a pull saw,I I'd need a solid base or it grabs..hence looking for small,light and quiet..ie,cut ,bag ,go...!
Pallets,yes gotta mind the nails etc..this why I was thinking recip....
Decisions,decisions...any more thoughts appreciated..
(I'm a groundsman / gardner,big private site etc),..and my brain is fried from youtubeitus..
In reply to Post #4
If you've done a chainsaw course then at least you know the dangers and the right technique.
Cutting pallets would definitely be easier and safer with a reciprocating saw but quicker with the chainsaw.
I've done the odd one with a chainsaw and it's possible with care, but as you say, you need to watch for nails but also make sure the boards don't move and jam the bar.
I've cut a few with the 3x2 full length bearers and they weren't too bad to do. I cut the 3x2 first and all went well. It's the ones with blocks that can be tricky when the boards are free to twist a bit. I've plenty of round wood so they tend go on the bonfire.
I've just had a look at the chain speed of the dewalt chainsaw and being battery powered it's obviously going to be fairly slow. About 1/3 the speed of a mid range petrol saw, but probably still a lot faster than a recip saw.
They both will have a bit of noise with them but not sure which would be quieter, probably not much in it.
If you think you will do more round wood than pallet then personally I would go chainsaw but I'm sure either would work.
If you've done a chainsaw course then at least you know the dangers and the right technique.
Cutting pallets would definitely be easier and safer with a reciprocating saw but quicker with the chainsaw.
I've done the odd one with a chainsaw and it's possible with care, but as you say, you need to watch for nails but also make sure the boards don't move and jam the bar.
I've cut a few with the 3x2 full length bearers and they weren't too bad to do. I cut the 3x2 first and all went well. It's the ones with blocks that can be tricky when the boards are free to twist a bit. I've plenty of round wood so they tend go on the bonfire.
I've just had a look at the chain speed of the dewalt chainsaw and being battery powered it's obviously going to be fairly slow. About 1/3 the speed of a mid range petrol saw, but probably still a lot faster than a recip saw.
They both will have a bit of noise with them but not sure which would be quieter, probably not much in it.
If you think you will do more round wood than pallet then personally I would go chainsaw but I'm sure either would work.
In reply to Post #5
Thanks yes,I'm leaning towards a Chainsaw ,..
When I was at Duchy, we had this awareness vid,anyway matey has climbed a small tree,doing some fairly low level pruning,so .he's (omg)...taped the throttle ,so it's running all the time ,tied the saw to a branch, no earmuffs ,protective stuff at all,then slipped ,chainsaw swung in an arc....nasty ,nasty injuries..
Like I mentioned,I have around 200 dry stored pallets,so thinking ,kindling ,and jenga base open fire starting ,it's too good to just leave,and lots of Ash die back branches I can use as well,I try n think ahead ,..keeping warm,winter storms etc...anyway you'll know what I mean ,...for certain..
You got open fire,or multi fuel ?..
Thanks yes,I'm leaning towards a Chainsaw ,..
When I was at Duchy, we had this awareness vid,anyway matey has climbed a small tree,doing some fairly low level pruning,so .he's (omg)...taped the throttle ,so it's running all the time ,tied the saw to a branch, no earmuffs ,protective stuff at all,then slipped ,chainsaw swung in an arc....nasty ,nasty injuries..
Like I mentioned,I have around 200 dry stored pallets,so thinking ,kindling ,and jenga base open fire starting ,it's too good to just leave,and lots of Ash die back branches I can use as well,I try n think ahead ,..keeping warm,winter storms etc...anyway you'll know what I mean ,...for certain..
You got open fire,or multi fuel ?..
In reply to Post #6
Yes some pretty nasty injury's can happen with chainsaws. The internet is full of “chainsaw fails”, most are just damage to property but as you say lack of thought and care can result in a nasty injury. I grew up in the pre chain brake era so chainsaws have become a lot safer now but I alway try not to use a saw if I'm in a rush or tired because it only takes one mistake and they don't take prisoners.
I've pretty much a full set of fires
An open fire which we only use on special occasions, a wood burner and Rayburn which are tied into our hot water system, excess heat from said system is pumped around underfloor and gives us warm floors and a background heat in all rooms as a bonus. We very rarely use the central heating and a tank of oil lasts us several years so our heating costs are very low and hopefully should stay that way. The trick is to source enough dry wood of course.
Lot of heat in those pallets especially if you can burn them dry but ash is perfect if you can get enough as I'm sure you know. If you know any tree surgeons they used to be good sources of wood but as the price of logs has risen not so much now. Sawmill waste ( slab wood) can be good and easy to dry if you can get it at the right price. With an open fire you would need to be carful of any sparky types though. I used to tidy up the slab wood spillage from work when we used to chip a few thousand tons of the stuff every year to feed the wood burners.
Now I've retired, I fell / coppice and log up my own trees which I enjoy doing, I get to play with lots of toys and it keeps me fit. Next on my list is an old ash that's been sick for a few years, couple of ft diameter so it will keep us warm for a while.
I've already split most of next winters logs and got them under cover. Mainly ash and oak but the oak takes much longer to dry ( 2 years ideally) so as you say plan ahead.
Good luck with your cutting, whichever saw you go for I'm sure it will save you a fortune.
Yes some pretty nasty injury's can happen with chainsaws. The internet is full of “chainsaw fails”, most are just damage to property but as you say lack of thought and care can result in a nasty injury. I grew up in the pre chain brake era so chainsaws have become a lot safer now but I alway try not to use a saw if I'm in a rush or tired because it only takes one mistake and they don't take prisoners.
I've pretty much a full set of fires
An open fire which we only use on special occasions, a wood burner and Rayburn which are tied into our hot water system, excess heat from said system is pumped around underfloor and gives us warm floors and a background heat in all rooms as a bonus. We very rarely use the central heating and a tank of oil lasts us several years so our heating costs are very low and hopefully should stay that way. The trick is to source enough dry wood of course.
Lot of heat in those pallets especially if you can burn them dry but ash is perfect if you can get enough as I'm sure you know. If you know any tree surgeons they used to be good sources of wood but as the price of logs has risen not so much now. Sawmill waste ( slab wood) can be good and easy to dry if you can get it at the right price. With an open fire you would need to be carful of any sparky types though. I used to tidy up the slab wood spillage from work when we used to chip a few thousand tons of the stuff every year to feed the wood burners.
Now I've retired, I fell / coppice and log up my own trees which I enjoy doing, I get to play with lots of toys and it keeps me fit. Next on my list is an old ash that's been sick for a few years, couple of ft diameter so it will keep us warm for a while.
I've already split most of next winters logs and got them under cover. Mainly ash and oak but the oak takes much longer to dry ( 2 years ideally) so as you say plan ahead.
Good luck with your cutting, whichever saw you go for I'm sure it will save you a fortune.
In reply to Post #7
I'm just open fire,...keeps my cottage proper nice and warm ..
I've never lived in a house with central heating ,but my family home was mixture of open and Aga,...nothing tastes likes a slow cooked stew,on the top plate..
Thanks for info ,best W1..
I'm just open fire,...keeps my cottage proper nice and warm ..
I've never lived in a house with central heating ,but my family home was mixture of open and Aga,...nothing tastes likes a slow cooked stew,on the top plate..
Thanks for info ,best W1..
In reply to Post #1
If you want battery look at the Ego stuff, its excellent.
If you want battery look at the Ego stuff, its excellent.