Hi guy, I wondered how you are casting to spots that your deeper picks up? With a marker rod you can obviously clip up and get the exact distance from the rod tip to the lake bed, but with a deeper you can't really do this and be pinpoint accurate. Am I missing something obvious?
In reply to Post #1
I clip up, reel in and then wrap around sticks until i hit the clip and then add on the depth (deeper will tell you the depth of water).
Sometimes i will then put the marker float on, cast it out to the spot and then cast my fishing rod/s very close to it if in open water with no obvious sight markers, to ensure accuracy.
I clip up, reel in and then wrap around sticks until i hit the clip and then add on the depth (deeper will tell you the depth of water).
Sometimes i will then put the marker float on, cast it out to the spot and then cast my fishing rod/s very close to it if in open water with no obvious sight markers, to ensure accuracy.
In reply to Post #1
Deeper should only be to find a spot worth investigating - you can then use a bare lead or marker float to investigate in more detail. A leading rod/marker rod will tell you a lot more than a deeper on a given spot, but the deeper is great at finding interesting areas quickly.
Deeper should only be to find a spot worth investigating - you can then use a bare lead or marker float to investigate in more detail. A leading rod/marker rod will tell you a lot more than a deeper on a given spot, but the deeper is great at finding interesting areas quickly.
In reply to Post #2
I used to do it this way until I checked with Pythagoras (plenty of online calcs to bookmark on your phone). Was quite surprised to see the extra distance was so little:
20wraps = 240ft
Deeper stated depth in lake above spot = 23ft
Pythagorean calculated distance to spot = 241.1ft
I think there's probably more variance due to using mono to fish with vs. braid on the deeper rod tbh
I used to do it this way until I checked with Pythagoras (plenty of online calcs to bookmark on your phone). Was quite surprised to see the extra distance was so little:
20wraps = 240ft
Deeper stated depth in lake above spot = 23ft
Pythagorean calculated distance to spot = 241.1ft
I think there's probably more variance due to using mono to fish with vs. braid on the deeper rod tbh
In reply to Post #1
You need to adjust for the arc of the lead falling on the clip.
In regards to the deeper, I like the concept of it, however I'd use it during the winter to map out a water prior to fishing it, especially on weedy waters.
Nothing replaces a bare lead on braid and a good pair of eyes behind polaroids.
You need to adjust for the arc of the lead falling on the clip.
In regards to the deeper, I like the concept of it, however I'd use it during the winter to map out a water prior to fishing it, especially on weedy waters.
Nothing replaces a bare lead on braid and a good pair of eyes behind polaroids.
In reply to Post #5
If you have the option always use the deeper on the highest frequency your unit has as it will give a better interpritation of the hardness /softness of the bottom.
If you want to map the bottom to make a contour map use the lowest frequency as it will give a wider beam.
Just remember that the positional accuracy of the deeper is not a constant and can vary on sattelites available , where the deeper is realative to obsticals on the bank and how rough the water is when you are using it.
I bougth a deeper to map a lake I fish which has depths to 60 ft as when I tried to do it with a marker float I got different depths due to under tow. On big deep lakes the undertow can remain for a long time after the wind has dropped.
Enjoy using the deeper as its a very powerful tool to understanding the bottom of the lake but as already said nothing like having a cast to feel the bottom as well.
If you have the option always use the deeper on the highest frequency your unit has as it will give a better interpritation of the hardness /softness of the bottom.
If you want to map the bottom to make a contour map use the lowest frequency as it will give a wider beam.
Just remember that the positional accuracy of the deeper is not a constant and can vary on sattelites available , where the deeper is realative to obsticals on the bank and how rough the water is when you are using it.
I bougth a deeper to map a lake I fish which has depths to 60 ft as when I tried to do it with a marker float I got different depths due to under tow. On big deep lakes the undertow can remain for a long time after the wind has dropped.
Enjoy using the deeper as its a very powerful tool to understanding the bottom of the lake but as already said nothing like having a cast to feel the bottom as well.
In reply to Post #1
. . .Haven't used a deeper but back in now ancient days (Smartcast) I used to gently tighten up any slack line, clip up over the spot then reel in and work out the number of wraps accordingly. This way you can set your baited rods at the correct distance (adding whatever you need for depth / tolerance etc)
As others have already mentioned however I used to find a marker much more efficient (once the general area / spot had been highlighted on the sonar) and either used the above method on the marker itself or more usually cast out close to the Smartcast head and then clip up off the marker rod . . .only danger with this is having what we used to call a 'Brahma' cast and actually smashing the sensor head with 3ounces of marker float lead . . .been there got the t-shirt!
. . .Haven't used a deeper but back in now ancient days (Smartcast) I used to gently tighten up any slack line, clip up over the spot then reel in and work out the number of wraps accordingly. This way you can set your baited rods at the correct distance (adding whatever you need for depth / tolerance etc)
As others have already mentioned however I used to find a marker much more efficient (once the general area / spot had been highlighted on the sonar) and either used the above method on the marker itself or more usually cast out close to the Smartcast head and then clip up off the marker rod . . .only danger with this is having what we used to call a 'Brahma' cast and actually smashing the sensor head with 3ounces of marker float lead . . .been there got the t-shirt!
In reply to Post #7
Cheers guys. It's a tricky one and unless we can see the rig land then we will never actually know if it's in the right spot. There are clearly a few different opinions on how to hit the spot.
Have you guys ever exported the data to third party software? I'm sure that the bathymetric maps could be more accurate.
Cheers guys. It's a tricky one and unless we can see the rig land then we will never actually know if it's in the right spot. There are clearly a few different opinions on how to hit the spot.
Have you guys ever exported the data to third party software? I'm sure that the bathymetric maps could be more accurate.
In reply to Post #1
I use my deeper all the time mate. Take up the slack line by hand and not by reeling in 1st of all, bit like you would with your lead with bait on. You feel the resistance of the deeper. Then reel in slowly but consistently.
I then use pellet bands instead of the clip to mark the line. Either 1st ring or bail arm down to you. Reason being is that I'll probably find more than a few spots.
As I have my deeper on a fixed lead clip I then swap over to a gripper lead. As you've used pellet bands instead of the clip
you can do your wraps for each point you want to have a little dink with the lead.
Don't over complicate dont dick around the settings or it'll do your head in... Keep it simple stupid is my logic
I use my deeper all the time mate. Take up the slack line by hand and not by reeling in 1st of all, bit like you would with your lead with bait on. You feel the resistance of the deeper. Then reel in slowly but consistently.
I then use pellet bands instead of the clip to mark the line. Either 1st ring or bail arm down to you. Reason being is that I'll probably find more than a few spots.
As I have my deeper on a fixed lead clip I then swap over to a gripper lead. As you've used pellet bands instead of the clip
you can do your wraps for each point you want to have a little dink with the lead.Don't over complicate dont dick around the settings or it'll do your head in... Keep it simple stupid is my logic
In reply to Post #9
What settings do you use as a standard?
What settings do you use as a standard?
In reply to Post #10
There is alot to be said for keeping it simple , but in this case i would take the trouble to learn how to change the frequency depending on what you are doing as the data you get will be much more usefull.
As I said earlier high frequency for looking for weed and how hard or soft the bottom is , low frequency for genraly mapping the depth contours.
There is alot to be said for keeping it simple , but in this case i would take the trouble to learn how to change the frequency depending on what you are doing as the data you get will be much more usefull.
As I said earlier high frequency for looking for weed and how hard or soft the bottom is , low frequency for genraly mapping the depth contours.
In reply to Post #1
As already mentioned you can use pythagorus to calculate the exact length accounting for the depth - but to be honest, the difference is minimal, and you're more likely to miss the spot due to line stretch for mono or line bow in a cross wind, or even a bow in the line between your deeper and marker rod before you clip up. You can try to feather the line to straighten out the bow caused by cross wind, and the error is obviously greater the further you're casting.
I dont tend to fish at extreme ranges - often most of my fishing is in the margins or at no more than 60yds and usually no more than 15ft depth - so I just clip up when I find a spot with the deeper or marker float, then count the same number of wraps and possibly add 1/4 wrap or 1/2 wrap depending on how far I'm casting. Works for me - but as others have said, unless you can get some scuba gear on, or can use a bait boat with a camera on you'll never know exactly what the spot looks like or if you've hit it - but that's all part of "fun" of what we do
As already mentioned you can use pythagorus to calculate the exact length accounting for the depth - but to be honest, the difference is minimal, and you're more likely to miss the spot due to line stretch for mono or line bow in a cross wind, or even a bow in the line between your deeper and marker rod before you clip up. You can try to feather the line to straighten out the bow caused by cross wind, and the error is obviously greater the further you're casting.
I dont tend to fish at extreme ranges - often most of my fishing is in the margins or at no more than 60yds and usually no more than 15ft depth - so I just clip up when I find a spot with the deeper or marker float, then count the same number of wraps and possibly add 1/4 wrap or 1/2 wrap depending on how far I'm casting. Works for me - but as others have said, unless you can get some scuba gear on, or can use a bait boat with a camera on you'll never know exactly what the spot looks like or if you've hit it - but that's all part of "fun" of what we do
The amount of dropback in 20 ft of water at 25 wraps(100yd) is 8 ins. At the same range in shallower water it gets less.
The only time you need to worry is in deep water at very short range. If you are adding the water depth to the distance you're casting you will be effectively overcasting by that amount. In most fishing situations the dropback issue can be ignored.
The only time you need to worry is in deep water at very short range. If you are adding the water depth to the distance you're casting you will be effectively overcasting by that amount. In most fishing situations the dropback issue can be ignored.