In reply to Post #1
A few things off the top of my head......
I would suggest leaving the filter running for a couple of weeks more before worrying about it, this time of year it's really tough to get a gin clear pond as the algae is in a spring flush.
By cleaning out the filter you may have also removed all the good micro organisms that had built up, it will take time for them to build up again.
You might need to adjust the flow through the UV to make sure it's working efficiently.
Are you over feeding the fish? That can lead to green water too, don't feed more than they can eat in a few minutes.
Jumping is quite normal this time of year, unfortunately your pond design may mean that a miss directed jump could lead to a stranded fish, I made the stupid mistake a couple of years ago of draining my pond before the fish had really slowed up for winter. I put them into a large inflatable pool but didn't cover it. The next moring I found my best looking fish, an 18lb linear mirror, dead on the lawn, I'd taken that fish from a lake over 20 years ago as a 2 inch fingerling (with the owners permission), I was gutted as it's death was my fault.
p.s. I'm no expert but have 2 ponds one about 10,000 gallons with a proper filter system and UVs and a very large pond (about the size of 2 tennis courts), obviously with no filter system and year round murky brown water (it's clay lined).
A few things off the top of my head......
I would suggest leaving the filter running for a couple of weeks more before worrying about it, this time of year it's really tough to get a gin clear pond as the algae is in a spring flush.
By cleaning out the filter you may have also removed all the good micro organisms that had built up, it will take time for them to build up again.
You might need to adjust the flow through the UV to make sure it's working efficiently.
Are you over feeding the fish? That can lead to green water too, don't feed more than they can eat in a few minutes.
Jumping is quite normal this time of year, unfortunately your pond design may mean that a miss directed jump could lead to a stranded fish, I made the stupid mistake a couple of years ago of draining my pond before the fish had really slowed up for winter. I put them into a large inflatable pool but didn't cover it. The next moring I found my best looking fish, an 18lb linear mirror, dead on the lawn, I'd taken that fish from a lake over 20 years ago as a 2 inch fingerling (with the owners permission), I was gutted as it's death was my fault.
p.s. I'm no expert but have 2 ponds one about 10,000 gallons with a proper filter system and UVs and a very large pond (about the size of 2 tennis courts), obviously with no filter system and year round murky brown water (it's clay lined).
Only ever clean your filters with the old pond water so no chlorine from tap water to kill the bacteria.
Also never use fresh tap water to refill pond for the same reason.
As stated, no good overfeeding fish when the filter bacteria have not sufficiently recolonised the filter medium.
To run a healthy pond ir tank you have to ensure you run a healthy biological filter first and foremost, then the fish will be fine.
Also never use fresh tap water to refill pond for the same reason.
As stated, no good overfeeding fish when the filter bacteria have not sufficiently recolonised the filter medium.
To run a healthy pond ir tank you have to ensure you run a healthy biological filter first and foremost, then the fish will be fine.
In reply to Post #1
Your UV wants to be after the mechanical and biological filtration. You're essentially pumping dirty water through the UV meaning the light can't penetrate. You're also running the risk of small stones etc being pumped into the UV which could damage the glass.
Although you've increased your filter's capacity your pump needs to be pushing the volume of your pond through every couple of hours too.
If you can adjust these things then I'd leave the whole system running for a week, adding a decent filter startup every day for 5 days to build the bacteria up.
Your UV wants to be after the mechanical and biological filtration. You're essentially pumping dirty water through the UV meaning the light can't penetrate. You're also running the risk of small stones etc being pumped into the UV which could damage the glass.
Although you've increased your filter's capacity your pump needs to be pushing the volume of your pond through every couple of hours too.
If you can adjust these things then I'd leave the whole system running for a week, adding a decent filter startup every day for 5 days to build the bacteria up.
Completely removing and cleaning a filter will kill all of the good bacteria that convert ammonia into nitrite and then nitrate, commonly referred to as the nitrogen cycle.
Ammonia and nitrite kill fish quickly.
To prevent this happening you should only wash out part of the filter material in pond water and leave the rest alone in pond water, do this as quick as possible to reduce loss of bacteria that live in the filter.
Until the filter is back to normal there will be ammonia and nitrite in the pond in high levels (small amounts will kill fish) . To combat this you'll need to keep the water quality as high as possible. Removing 10% and topping up with carbon filtered water regularly (chlorine and chloramine removed) you can get a double 10" filter and put carbon block filters in the housings to do tbis.
Get a water test kit and if you have fish dying do water changes daily. Much will depend on stocking density and amount of plants.
Using chemicals to neutralise chlorine and chloramine and dumping heavy metals in the pond is not a good idea.... best to remove it before it gets to the fish.. put one of these in a gas box outside to hide it.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-10-Filter-Housing-Set-Two-Stage-Water-Filtration-System-3-4-Ports-/302289866262?nav=SEARCH
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Carbon-Block-Filter-Cartridges-for-RO-Reverse-Osmosis-Units-Housings-/251386686117?nav=SEARCH
A good idea is to have 2 pumps and only clean 1 at a time so you don't lose ammonia neutralizing bacteria at any time.
Ammonia and nitrite kill fish quickly.
To prevent this happening you should only wash out part of the filter material in pond water and leave the rest alone in pond water, do this as quick as possible to reduce loss of bacteria that live in the filter.
Until the filter is back to normal there will be ammonia and nitrite in the pond in high levels (small amounts will kill fish) . To combat this you'll need to keep the water quality as high as possible. Removing 10% and topping up with carbon filtered water regularly (chlorine and chloramine removed) you can get a double 10" filter and put carbon block filters in the housings to do tbis.
Get a water test kit and if you have fish dying do water changes daily. Much will depend on stocking density and amount of plants.
Using chemicals to neutralise chlorine and chloramine and dumping heavy metals in the pond is not a good idea.... best to remove it before it gets to the fish.. put one of these in a gas box outside to hide it.
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Twin-10-Filter-Housing-Set-Two-Stage-Water-Filtration-System-3-4-Ports-/302289866262?nav=SEARCH
https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Carbon-Block-Filter-Cartridges-for-RO-Reverse-Osmosis-Units-Housings-/251386686117?nav=SEARCH
A good idea is to have 2 pumps and only clean 1 at a time so you don't lose ammonia neutralizing bacteria at any time.
In reply to Post #5
Just re-read your first post & you've put the UV between the old & new filters so not quite so bad. I'd still put it last in line though.
I wouldn't worry too much about the green water, I think it probably just needs time to settle & for everything to start working in harmony. The first month of any new setup is always the hardest as you've not got the different bacteria that convert ammonia and so forth. Give it some time before you go investing in new kit. You could run two pumps if your filter has two inputs, save you buying a new replacement.
Just re-read your first post & you've put the UV between the old & new filters so not quite so bad. I'd still put it last in line though.
I wouldn't worry too much about the green water, I think it probably just needs time to settle & for everything to start working in harmony. The first month of any new setup is always the hardest as you've not got the different bacteria that convert ammonia and so forth. Give it some time before you go investing in new kit. You could run two pumps if your filter has two inputs, save you buying a new replacement.
Been a while since I had a pond. The slurry you removed from your pond will have been acting as a filter in itself so for the moment you don't have the same bacterial capacity you used to have, so your system is not what it was, you may experience different water quality until it settles down again, test every now and then.
The other is that you've copped for the worst possible weather
bright sunny days and increased temps for weeks on end, the algae has really kicked off in the Mrs fish tank last 3 weeks.
If worried about the fish jumping out put a net over the pond temporarily.
The other is that you've copped for the worst possible weather
bright sunny days and increased temps for weeks on end, the algae has really kicked off in the Mrs fish tank last 3 weeks.If worried about the fish jumping out put a net over the pond temporarily.
They say you should not but I never had a problem running a hose straight into pond. 10000L pond took 12hrs on full bore to clear the green and then turned it down and left on throughout summer. Obv its not good if youre on a meter.
In reply to Post #8
Oase stuff is very good IMO. I have had Oase pumps for over 15 years and in fact the first problem I had was very recently when the pond skimmer pump failed so had to be replaced, I went for Oase again.
If you're looking for new kit try www.swelluk.com they are very helpful and gave me a great deal on a new pump.
Interesting what others are saying about the position of the UV as my main UV is before the filter system as it's an Oase Bitron system where the water goes through the UV first. I do have another UV on they way out as well though so I guess I've covered it both ways!
If your pump has foam in the housing then it will be a nightmare until the pond clears.
Oase stuff is very good IMO. I have had Oase pumps for over 15 years and in fact the first problem I had was very recently when the pond skimmer pump failed so had to be replaced, I went for Oase again.
If you're looking for new kit try www.swelluk.com they are very helpful and gave me a great deal on a new pump.
Interesting what others are saying about the position of the UV as my main UV is before the filter system as it's an Oase Bitron system where the water goes through the UV first. I do have another UV on they way out as well though so I guess I've covered it both ways!
If your pump has foam in the housing then it will be a nightmare until the pond clears.
In reply to Post #12
Well you're certainly not 'under pumped' then!
Re the skimmer, my advice is to buy the biggest you can get, or indeed make one, especially if you have overhanging trees etc so get a lot of floating leaves etc. I have the Oase Biosys Skimmer plus, which you build into the side to the pond, I previously had one of the surface skimmers but it was just too small and needed emptying far to often.
Well you're certainly not 'under pumped' then!
Re the skimmer, my advice is to buy the biggest you can get, or indeed make one, especially if you have overhanging trees etc so get a lot of floating leaves etc. I have the Oase Biosys Skimmer plus, which you build into the side to the pond, I previously had one of the surface skimmers but it was just too small and needed emptying far to often.
In reply to Post #1
Nutrients will be the issue, either from rotting "stuff" in the pond or introduced accidently via your tap water.
The Royal Horticultural Society, who know a few things about plants, have some very good advice.
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=162
Hope it helps.
Nutrients will be the issue, either from rotting "stuff" in the pond or introduced accidently via your tap water.
The Royal Horticultural Society, who know a few things about plants, have some very good advice.
https://www.rhs.org.uk/advice/profile?PID=162
Hope it helps.
In reply to Post #1
Check flow rates, a lot of systems that say rated for x amount are for lightly stocked ponds in the shade. For koi/carp you need to turn the pond over once an hour. If its oase filtoclear they are good but they are overrated as regards to what they can do. By having a couple of filters in line can slow the flow down so again its back to flow rates. The uv is better at the first stage, the idea is the uv plumps up the algae then the filter holds it all, yes you could get stones going through uv which might damage it but in reality no stones should be on the bottom of a pond. Regular hoovering of the pond helps this, a build up of silt/stones is one of the worst contributers to health problems. Regularly check the quartz sleeve it can get calcium deposits on and biofilm build ups, there delicate and expensive to replace. As said try to avoid cleaning with tap water, its commonly done and in truth most established ponds will handle it. Foams can be hosed if filthy. You've answered one of your own questions and back to flow rates a larger uv is not much help without the right amount of water pumped through it. One trick is fill an empty large plastic fizzy drinks bottle with the pond water and leave completely still for 24 hours, if it stays a consistent green from top to bottom the uvs not working properly if you get a green layer on the bottom the uv is working but the filters not trapping it so at least you could concentrate on one particular piece of equipment.
As regrards to the fish jumping yes as we all know carp do jump but in ponds it can be a sign of low oxygen. All koi/carp ponds must have an air pump not only does it help the fish but puts more oxygen into the filter bacteria.
One last thing, plants generally dont help they make more mess but they look nice.
Hope this helps a bit
Check flow rates, a lot of systems that say rated for x amount are for lightly stocked ponds in the shade. For koi/carp you need to turn the pond over once an hour. If its oase filtoclear they are good but they are overrated as regards to what they can do. By having a couple of filters in line can slow the flow down so again its back to flow rates. The uv is better at the first stage, the idea is the uv plumps up the algae then the filter holds it all, yes you could get stones going through uv which might damage it but in reality no stones should be on the bottom of a pond. Regular hoovering of the pond helps this, a build up of silt/stones is one of the worst contributers to health problems. Regularly check the quartz sleeve it can get calcium deposits on and biofilm build ups, there delicate and expensive to replace. As said try to avoid cleaning with tap water, its commonly done and in truth most established ponds will handle it. Foams can be hosed if filthy. You've answered one of your own questions and back to flow rates a larger uv is not much help without the right amount of water pumped through it. One trick is fill an empty large plastic fizzy drinks bottle with the pond water and leave completely still for 24 hours, if it stays a consistent green from top to bottom the uvs not working properly if you get a green layer on the bottom the uv is working but the filters not trapping it so at least you could concentrate on one particular piece of equipment.
As regrards to the fish jumping yes as we all know carp do jump but in ponds it can be a sign of low oxygen. All koi/carp ponds must have an air pump not only does it help the fish but puts more oxygen into the filter bacteria.
One last thing, plants generally dont help they make more mess but they look nice.
Hope this helps a bit
In reply to Post #12
Just read some of the other posts now and yes a skimmer is a good idea. You now have to check your not pushing the water too fast, i dont have access to spec any more but oase uk are helpful. As regards to tap water a filter on the hose is always a good idea, a company called trade mark aquatics could help you out or evolution aqua. If anyone needs add an amount of tap water into the pond treat with a dechlorinating liquid for the whole volume of the pond not just the percentaged being changed.
Just read some of the other posts now and yes a skimmer is a good idea. You now have to check your not pushing the water too fast, i dont have access to spec any more but oase uk are helpful. As regards to tap water a filter on the hose is always a good idea, a company called trade mark aquatics could help you out or evolution aqua. If anyone needs add an amount of tap water into the pond treat with a dechlorinating liquid for the whole volume of the pond not just the percentaged being changed.
In reply to Post #15
There's definitely two schools of though on the position of a uv. Putting it before any mechanical filtration reduces the efficiency of the bulb as it can't penetrate the water. Putting it after mechanical filtration means that the clumped algae isn't so efficiently removed. It all depends on the type of pond in my opinion.
On a koi only pond with no plants then I'd agree that putting it before is probably better but having seen Josh's pond I'd suggest putting it after would be better. His is more of a natural pond and is unlikely to achieve the type of crystal clear water you'd be hoping for in a standard koi pond.
There's definitely two schools of though on the position of a uv. Putting it before any mechanical filtration reduces the efficiency of the bulb as it can't penetrate the water. Putting it after mechanical filtration means that the clumped algae isn't so efficiently removed. It all depends on the type of pond in my opinion.
On a koi only pond with no plants then I'd agree that putting it before is probably better but having seen Josh's pond I'd suggest putting it after would be better. His is more of a natural pond and is unlikely to achieve the type of crystal clear water you'd be hoping for in a standard koi pond.
In reply to Post #17
Unfortunately natural back garden ponds and koi are not always a good mix. I can see your point as the particles in the water will reduce the efficiency of the uv but you dont want the algae dumped back in the pond it will add to the sediment.
Unfortunately natural back garden ponds and koi are not always a good mix. I can see your point as the particles in the water will reduce the efficiency of the uv but you dont want the algae dumped back in the pond it will add to the sediment.
You sure your uv bulb is working ok? Yamitsu kockney koi uv,s work well.