In reply to Post #23
Gerry has it spot on in the majority. Normal straight shank Longshank hooks are much less of a problem when it comes to damage potential, but the long shanked curved patterns such as the Longshank Nailer, Fox Series 5, 360 patterns, etc do have the tendency to double hook should the fish be on the smaller size or have smaller mouth's due to the way the hook has a larger radius to rotate around if the hookhold become loose on a slackish line after netting etc in the same way a traditional bent hook can. This is the reason I always have a pair of side cutters in my unhooking kit as the same can happen with standard hook patterns also (although much lesser risk).
Gerry has it spot on in the majority. Normal straight shank Longshank hooks are much less of a problem when it comes to damage potential, but the long shanked curved patterns such as the Longshank Nailer, Fox Series 5, 360 patterns, etc do have the tendency to double hook should the fish be on the smaller size or have smaller mouth's due to the way the hook has a larger radius to rotate around if the hookhold become loose on a slackish line after netting etc in the same way a traditional bent hook can. This is the reason I always have a pair of side cutters in my unhooking kit as the same can happen with standard hook patterns also (although much lesser risk).
all i use is longshanks even on choddys, and i never ever get mouth damage
I think mouth damage has a lot more to do with the way people remove the hook and play the fish rather than anything else.
In reply to Post #34
Totally agree with you mate it's not the hook it's the angler using them trying to bully them in
Totally agree with you mate it's not the hook it's the angler using them trying to bully them in
In reply to Post #32
I keep a pair of cutters in my tackle box specifically for hooks that look like the will be difficult to remove. If it doesn't move from a touch with forceps, then the hook is being cut.
I think the last fish I had to cut a hook to remove it was back in 2009, when a long shank hook went in, and the point was sticking out and round after hooking in the mouth. The hook was effectively stuck in position, so far less damage to cut the shank as far down as possible and gently pull the point and bend out.
I keep a pair of cutters in my tackle box specifically for hooks that look like the will be difficult to remove. If it doesn't move from a touch with forceps, then the hook is being cut.
I think the last fish I had to cut a hook to remove it was back in 2009, when a long shank hook went in, and the point was sticking out and round after hooking in the mouth. The hook was effectively stuck in position, so far less damage to cut the shank as far down as possible and gently pull the point and bend out.