In reply to Post #14
Hydrotuff is thick but incredibly strong. Pb control mono is prestretch so thinner for the BS. If you need to cast far or don't have much weed the PB over hydrotuff. It sinks really well and I never had any twist issues when using it.
Hydrotuff is thick but incredibly strong. Pb control mono is prestretch so thinner for the BS. If you need to cast far or don't have much weed the PB over hydrotuff. It sinks really well and I never had any twist issues when using it.
Cheers mate, will give the pb control a go 👍
I've recently experienced the same issue with my Power Aeros after loading with Gardner HD tapered leaders. Ridiculous amount of line twist when zig fishing I.e. a 10ft zig link was twisted up next to the lead on retrieve! I don't think it's the reels as they've been ok with different line, so I think it's the line and/or how I loaded it on to the reel in the first place. Anyhow, I've reversed the line onto some old basias and I'm going to try them this weekend to see if I can rule out the reels and narrow it down to the line.
In reply to Post #18
Do you mean the zig hooklink was twisted? or the mainline above the lead? zig hooklinks can sometimes spin on the retrieve and twist themselves up which isn't the reels or mainline fault .
apologies if i have read that wrong
Do you mean the zig hooklink was twisted? or the mainline above the lead? zig hooklinks can sometimes spin on the retrieve and twist themselves up which isn't the reels or mainline fault .
apologies if i have read that wrong
In reply to Post #18
Reels don't twist line. Copied my post from another thread...
Line twist is something we all must try and avoid. It's not the reel or the line that's at fault.
One reel is much the same as another and doesn't add to line twist.
Most line twist occurs when a reel is loaded with the spool not in the best position to spool up correctly.
The line coming off a baitrunner or drag will increase line twist, and also some lead shapes will make the lead spin when retrieved at speed and the swivel does nothing to reduce twist!
When I have noticed line twist I just unspin it, as follows...
If you are noticing significant line twist when you let your line go slack and it wants to coil around the rod tip, or when you reel in and let the lead dangle and you see it spinning then you need to remove it.
It is essential to keep the tension in the line when reeling in so most twist is compressed into the section of line between the rod tip and the lead.
I will remove the hooklength and give it a big cast into open water, then reel in and allow the lead to hang opposite the reel, and as I lift the rod to near vertical you can see the lead starts to spin. You must keep the tension in the line from tip to lead. Note which way the lead is spinning, this is the direction of spin to remove line twist.
Be sure to note which way your twist wants to unwind...
Rather than wait for ages for the lead to keep untwisting the line you can actually spin the lead yourself to speed things up.
When the lead no longer wants to spin in the "untwisting" direction you are not done, as you have only removed the twist in the section from rod tip to lead where the twist has been compressed. You now need to continue to spin the lead in the same direction a few more times.
This is putting counter twist into the line... it seems wrong, but all will even out in a minute.
You can then cast out a medium distance, but no massive chucks to prevent fraps from the added counter twist. Now let the line go semi slack, and the added counter twist will now counter any twist that was already in the line further out from the rod tip!
Reel in and let the lead dangle. Now there should be minimal twist or no twist.
If the lead still wants to spin in the "untwist" direction the repeat the above a couple more times, adding more counter twist.
When there is no more twist when you hang the lead i like to still add some more counter twist to help keep the line under control.
If you now reel in and the lead want to spin in opposite direction to "untwisting" then it means you have added a bit too much counter twist. This is no big problem as it will soon even itself out once you do a couple of big cast.
Try it... This does work 100%.
Reels don't twist line. Copied my post from another thread...
Line twist is something we all must try and avoid. It's not the reel or the line that's at fault.
One reel is much the same as another and doesn't add to line twist.
Most line twist occurs when a reel is loaded with the spool not in the best position to spool up correctly.
The line coming off a baitrunner or drag will increase line twist, and also some lead shapes will make the lead spin when retrieved at speed and the swivel does nothing to reduce twist!
When I have noticed line twist I just unspin it, as follows...
If you are noticing significant line twist when you let your line go slack and it wants to coil around the rod tip, or when you reel in and let the lead dangle and you see it spinning then you need to remove it.
It is essential to keep the tension in the line when reeling in so most twist is compressed into the section of line between the rod tip and the lead.
I will remove the hooklength and give it a big cast into open water, then reel in and allow the lead to hang opposite the reel, and as I lift the rod to near vertical you can see the lead starts to spin. You must keep the tension in the line from tip to lead. Note which way the lead is spinning, this is the direction of spin to remove line twist.
Be sure to note which way your twist wants to unwind...
Rather than wait for ages for the lead to keep untwisting the line you can actually spin the lead yourself to speed things up.
When the lead no longer wants to spin in the "untwisting" direction you are not done, as you have only removed the twist in the section from rod tip to lead where the twist has been compressed. You now need to continue to spin the lead in the same direction a few more times.
This is putting counter twist into the line... it seems wrong, but all will even out in a minute.
You can then cast out a medium distance, but no massive chucks to prevent fraps from the added counter twist. Now let the line go semi slack, and the added counter twist will now counter any twist that was already in the line further out from the rod tip!
Reel in and let the lead dangle. Now there should be minimal twist or no twist.
If the lead still wants to spin in the "untwist" direction the repeat the above a couple more times, adding more counter twist.
When there is no more twist when you hang the lead i like to still add some more counter twist to help keep the line under control.
If you now reel in and the lead want to spin in opposite direction to "untwisting" then it means you have added a bit too much counter twist. This is no big problem as it will soon even itself out once you do a couple of big cast.
Try it... This does work 100%.
In reply to Post #20
Yeah, I'm sure I spooled it incorrectly, but never experienced such bad line twist and spooled as I normally would. Thanks for the tips. Never used tapered mono line before either so that might have something to do with it.
Yeah, I'm sure I spooled it incorrectly, but never experienced such bad line twist and spooled as I normally would. Thanks for the tips. Never used tapered mono line before either so that might have something to do with it.
In reply to Post #21
Ridiculous amount of line twist when zig fishing I.e. a 10ft zig link was twisted up next to the lead on retrieve!
It was just your hooklenth that tangled, not uncommon with zigs.
It spins on the retrieve.
Ridiculous amount of line twist when zig fishing I.e. a 10ft zig link was twisted up next to the lead on retrieve!
It was just your hooklenth that tangled, not uncommon with zigs.
It spins on the retrieve.
In reply to Post #1
I think this issue is becoming more common because a lot of people now 'wrap up' around sticks.
I noticed this myself with this wrapping up lark, even using a lovely, well behaved line like CM90 started twisting up when limp off of the rod tip. Annoying!
End of each session, at home, I would cut off the rigs and walk the line out onto an open field and retrieve through a cheap square green sponge with a 50/50 mix of washing liquid and water squirted on it, in the smaller 40mm ring and tension it above the reel between thumb and forefinger.
I think this issue is becoming more common because a lot of people now 'wrap up' around sticks.
I noticed this myself with this wrapping up lark, even using a lovely, well behaved line like CM90 started twisting up when limp off of the rod tip. Annoying!
End of each session, at home, I would cut off the rigs and walk the line out onto an open field and retrieve through a cheap square green sponge with a 50/50 mix of washing liquid and water squirted on it, in the smaller 40mm ring and tension it above the reel between thumb and forefinger.
In reply to Post #23
I don't think the wrapping up is the issue.
When wrapping up any twist that is already in your line will become apparent if there is any slack.
I don't think the wrapping up is the issue.
When wrapping up any twist that is already in your line will become apparent if there is any slack.
If you want to remove twist just walk your line out. Or cast out a PVA bag full of stones into the water & reel in under tension between your fingers after it's melted.
Sometimes the simplest methods are the best.
Sometimes the simplest methods are the best.
In reply to Post #24
Wrapping up may not, but winding back off of the sticks can certainly add twist
Wrapping up may not, but winding back off of the sticks can certainly add twist
In reply to Post #26
Any winding in adds an element of twist, but once you cast out that 'should' then untwist, but thats inevitable and unavoidable...
The real elements that add twist are:
● Spooling onto reels incorrectly. This can vary due to the method used by the original manufacturer and the respooling by the tackle company. You need to wind on 20-30m then let the line go slack and check for twists. If twisting then reverse the spool direction or flip it over.
● Excessive use of baitrunner or reel drag. Periodic untwisting line using my counter-twist
method, or walking out, etc is needed for regular line management.
● Certain lead shapes can be prone to spinning on the retrieve. Once reeled in, hold the rod so the lead is level with the reel and see if the line wants to untwist. If it does then use my counter-twist method.
Any winding in adds an element of twist, but once you cast out that 'should' then untwist, but thats inevitable and unavoidable...
The real elements that add twist are:
● Spooling onto reels incorrectly. This can vary due to the method used by the original manufacturer and the respooling by the tackle company. You need to wind on 20-30m then let the line go slack and check for twists. If twisting then reverse the spool direction or flip it over.
● Excessive use of baitrunner or reel drag. Periodic untwisting line using my counter-twist
method, or walking out, etc is needed for regular line management.
● Certain lead shapes can be prone to spinning on the retrieve. Once reeled in, hold the rod so the lead is level with the reel and see if the line wants to untwist. If it does then use my counter-twist method.
To the OP, probably not a major thing but hidden away on the gardner website is the following advice:
*We recommend spooling up GT-Hd with the label facing upwards (line coming off anti-clockwise) and periodically checking for line twist for the best possible results.
LINKY POO™ https://gardnertackle.co.uk/product/gt-hd/
I use GTHD in 12lb with a bait boat and it's one of the best lines I have ever experienced for not suffering twist. I do think that the lower the BS / Diameter, the less the twist will be apparent though.
*We recommend spooling up GT-Hd with the label facing upwards (line coming off anti-clockwise) and periodically checking for line twist for the best possible results.
LINKY POO™ https://gardnertackle.co.uk/product/gt-hd/
I use GTHD in 12lb with a bait boat and it's one of the best lines I have ever experienced for not suffering twist. I do think that the lower the BS / Diameter, the less the twist will be apparent though.
In reply to Post #28
I'd avocate this too. I've always spooled GTHD with the label up and had no issues with twist at all. However, for some unknown reason, the last batch I put on with the spool on it's side, running on a bar. I've had so many problems with twist this time round. I'm about respool again and will be reverting back to their advice.
Ps. I've always used the 15lb
I'd avocate this too. I've always spooled GTHD with the label up and had no issues with twist at all. However, for some unknown reason, the last batch I put on with the spool on it's side, running on a bar. I've had so many problems with twist this time round. I'm about respool again and will be reverting back to their advice.
Ps. I've always used the 15lb
In reply to Post #29
I had so many line twist problems with Shimano Technium with that method I ended up replacing it with new Technium.
I used this method and it's been fine
LINKY POO™ https://youtu.be/gjbEy9xNWJk
I had so many line twist problems with Shimano Technium with that method I ended up replacing it with new Technium.
I used this method and it's been fine
LINKY POO™ https://youtu.be/gjbEy9xNWJk