In reply to Post #16
How will you get a single beep though there is no free line behind the alarm to make the alarm beep?
Why not use the correct indicator set up and have 1000% better indication?
How will you get a single beep though there is no free line behind the alarm to make the alarm beep?
Why not use the correct indicator set up and have 1000% better indication?
In reply to Post #17
I was thinking the same, with a proper highly tensioned set up even at 150 yards + the Rod jumps up and all hell breaks loose, I've hooked and landed Roach many times when they have been messing about with the Boilie and dislodged the Lead getting instantly hooked in the process, sometimes so small I've not even realised they are on and wound in as normal
I was thinking the same, with a proper highly tensioned set up even at 150 yards + the Rod jumps up and all hell breaks loose, I've hooked and landed Roach many times when they have been messing about with the Boilie and dislodged the Lead getting instantly hooked in the process, sometimes so small I've not even realised they are on and wound in as normal
In reply to Post #17
Why not use the correct indicator set up and have 1000% better indication?
Because it's carpy and you can't teach stupid
Why not use the correct indicator set up and have 1000% better indication?
Because it's carpy and you can't teach stupid
In reply to Post #19
For me you can't beat a heavyish bobbin with a decent drop, unless the conditions require something different of course (long range, windy, slack lines etc)
As well as the bowstring tight set up with bobbins at the top I often see super lightweight bobbins that would be rubbish at indicating any sort of drop back.
For me you can't beat a heavyish bobbin with a decent drop, unless the conditions require something different of course (long range, windy, slack lines etc)
As well as the bowstring tight set up with bobbins at the top I often see super lightweight bobbins that would be rubbish at indicating any sort of drop back.
In reply to Post #15
This..
It makes a good video.
This..
It makes a good video.
In reply to Post #12
Whoever it was that was fishing like that didn't have it set up correctly. Should have set the bobbin up at an angle from the buzzer, like 60° or so so there's indication forward or backwards. If you had a ripping take it would still work like it's shown, also, the way it's being used in this picture would still indicate drop backs.
The jury is still out on these sorts of bobbins for me - currently using them - even with the heaviest weights they sell for them, which are still too light for my likings. I do like the fact that that these sorts of bobbins are connected directly to the line as apposed to a bobbin which the line moves through. I've recently moved over from big heavy swing arms with large adjustable counter weight and heavy bobbin.
I like to fish tight lines in nearly all situations, only change when the water I'm on is tricky and the fish are twitchy. Currently using mono and have been fishing at silly ranges which I don't think is that good at all as there's too much stretch in mono and a fish at range can get up to all sorts and you'll never know. Braid seems like the logical way to go.
Whoever it was that was fishing like that didn't have it set up correctly. Should have set the bobbin up at an angle from the buzzer, like 60° or so so there's indication forward or backwards. If you had a ripping take it would still work like it's shown, also, the way it's being used in this picture would still indicate drop backs.
The jury is still out on these sorts of bobbins for me - currently using them - even with the heaviest weights they sell for them, which are still too light for my likings. I do like the fact that that these sorts of bobbins are connected directly to the line as apposed to a bobbin which the line moves through. I've recently moved over from big heavy swing arms with large adjustable counter weight and heavy bobbin.
I like to fish tight lines in nearly all situations, only change when the water I'm on is tricky and the fish are twitchy. Currently using mono and have been fishing at silly ranges which I don't think is that good at all as there's too much stretch in mono and a fish at range can get up to all sorts and you'll never know. Braid seems like the logical way to go.
In reply to Post #22
IF the bobbin was set at an angle away from the buzzer but still on a tight line as shown in the pic further down the thread im not sure it would make any difference as for bobbin to move line would have to come off the clutch and since most of these bobbins are set to drop off on forward take, would the bobbin drop off in both instances?
I agree with that set up the bobbin would eventually fall with a drop back the heavier the counter weight the quicker but for me a quiver type indicator is a lot better
IF the bobbin was set at an angle away from the buzzer but still on a tight line as shown in the pic further down the thread im not sure it would make any difference as for bobbin to move line would have to come off the clutch and since most of these bobbins are set to drop off on forward take, would the bobbin drop off in both instances?
I agree with that set up the bobbin would eventually fall with a drop back the heavier the counter weight the quicker but for me a quiver type indicator is a lot better
In reply to Post #23
Not really. There's loads of movement due to stretch in mono and would show indication on a tight line. Not that I've ever used braid as a mainline, there's hardly any in the stuff and you'd be correct in what you're saying, which from what people have told me is why bods use Delkims over roller buzzers with braid.
Not really. There's loads of movement due to stretch in mono and would show indication on a tight line. Not that I've ever used braid as a mainline, there's hardly any in the stuff and you'd be correct in what you're saying, which from what people have told me is why bods use Delkims over roller buzzers with braid.
In reply to Post #24
I think it would still be very minimal movement with mono as the stretch would be over the full length of line out not just the inch or so behind the alarm and i think it would still only give the same audible noise from alarm regardless to the angle of stow.
I think one of the of the functions of an indicator is to increase the available line movement over the buzzer to increase audible indication, i dont think these do that
I still think it would only significantly move when line comes off the clutch as with the stow type indicator it is clipped directly to the line so the only way it can move significantly forward is if the line itself moves ie line comes off the clutch
They are a poor indication system for tight lines at range
I think it would still be very minimal movement with mono as the stretch would be over the full length of line out not just the inch or so behind the alarm and i think it would still only give the same audible noise from alarm regardless to the angle of stow.
I think one of the of the functions of an indicator is to increase the available line movement over the buzzer to increase audible indication, i dont think these do that
I still think it would only significantly move when line comes off the clutch as with the stow type indicator it is clipped directly to the line so the only way it can move significantly forward is if the line itself moves ie line comes off the clutch
They are a poor indication system for tight lines at range
In reply to Post #24
I agree with you.
I use a (tench) rig with a tight line and a heavy bobbin close to the rod. The stretch in the mono is part of the reason why the rig works so well. With braid it's not so efficient.
I agree with you.
I use a (tench) rig with a tight line and a heavy bobbin close to the rod. The stretch in the mono is part of the reason why the rig works so well. With braid it's not so efficient.