In reply to Post #15
Nothing wrong with the finish on factory harrison rods and i expect century to be the same , the armalite mk 1 and 2 had seymo epoxy finish which went white looking at it , alot of quality finishes around nowadays.
Nothing wrong with the finish on factory harrison rods and i expect century to be the same , the armalite mk 1 and 2 had seymo epoxy finish which went white looking at it , alot of quality finishes around nowadays.
Hi Lee
I've never owned custom rods, but I've seen quite a few and had a play with some.
I did meet a rather knowledgeable guy who built fly fishing rods many years ago and his take on it was this:
Custom rods are largely about aesthetics and personal preference as 99% of custom rods are built on factory blanks.
But the great custom rod builders know how to rung a rod to an individual's personal preference and that as he said "is where the magic comes in"
Best
Jon
I've never owned custom rods, but I've seen quite a few and had a play with some.
I did meet a rather knowledgeable guy who built fly fishing rods many years ago and his take on it was this:
Custom rods are largely about aesthetics and personal preference as 99% of custom rods are built on factory blanks.
But the great custom rod builders know how to rung a rod to an individual's personal preference and that as he said "is where the magic comes in"
Best
Jon
In reply to Post #15
That is nothing to do with the manufacturer law changed regarding oil based finish. Most if not all lacquer now on rods or wood is water based that's why you get them white Mark's. Nearly all paint is now as well
That is nothing to do with the manufacturer law changed regarding oil based finish. Most if not all lacquer now on rods or wood is water based that's why you get them white Mark's. Nearly all paint is now as well
In reply to Post #18
Im afraid you are mis informed all the Main rod wrapping finishes are hi polymer resin based (dura gloss ls supreme etc, try cleaning your brush with water after using that , it also would,nt level very well if it was water based.The white marks are caused by moisture penetrating the whipping mainly due to epoxy curing toi fast i.e temps not correct whist epoxy drying or not mixing to the stated guide.
Im afraid you are mis informed all the Main rod wrapping finishes are hi polymer resin based (dura gloss ls supreme etc, try cleaning your brush with water after using that , it also would,nt level very well if it was water based.The white marks are caused by moisture penetrating the whipping mainly due to epoxy curing toi fast i.e temps not correct whist epoxy drying or not mixing to the stated guide.
In reply to Post #19
I've had this quite badly on my Harrison's, and to a lesser extent on my Century's. Would another coat of vranish, to reseal, prevent it?
I've had this quite badly on my Harrison's, and to a lesser extent on my Century's. Would another coat of vranish, to reseal, prevent it?
In reply to Post #20
In the old days it was varnish we used nowadays things are so much easier what you need to use is a hi polymer rod wrapping finish , I have used u-40 dura gloss ls supreme for the last 7 or 8 years another u-40 product before that its a 2 part finish you critically mix the resin compound with the hardener compound ( not to be confused with epoxy glue ) you would be surprised the amount of people that have used wrong products ! Its not the easiest thing to master but when you do the finish is fantastic. In answer to your question it depends how bad it is ? If its been letting water in then the thread will need re whipping and then coating twice whilst your rod is turning this dries it correctly and self levels if you know how to apply properly ! Its the area where a novice will come unstuck pardon the pun ! Thats why alot of people including myself will not undertake rebuilds , its alot of time and work fixing peoples **** ups ! Saying that i am doing more than i should at the moment ! Alot of the time a good car polish will get rid of the whitening if its not too bad.
In the old days it was varnish we used nowadays things are so much easier what you need to use is a hi polymer rod wrapping finish , I have used u-40 dura gloss ls supreme for the last 7 or 8 years another u-40 product before that its a 2 part finish you critically mix the resin compound with the hardener compound ( not to be confused with epoxy glue ) you would be surprised the amount of people that have used wrong products ! Its not the easiest thing to master but when you do the finish is fantastic. In answer to your question it depends how bad it is ? If its been letting water in then the thread will need re whipping and then coating twice whilst your rod is turning this dries it correctly and self levels if you know how to apply properly ! Its the area where a novice will come unstuck pardon the pun ! Thats why alot of people including myself will not undertake rebuilds , its alot of time and work fixing peoples **** ups ! Saying that i am doing more than i should at the moment ! Alot of the time a good car polish will get rid of the whitening if its not too bad.
In reply to Post #21
Thanks for the reply Jeffire. The whitening goes of it's own accord once dried out. I might try giving them a couple of coats of yacht varnish, can't remember having this in the 70's. I always thought the whitening was moisture getting into the resins, probably due to bad mixing or accelerated curing times. Unlaquered carbon car body parts can be affected by moisture in the resins, turns them a milky white and difficult to get rid of once affected.
Thanks for the reply Jeffire. The whitening goes of it's own accord once dried out. I might try giving them a couple of coats of yacht varnish, can't remember having this in the 70's. I always thought the whitening was moisture getting into the resins, probably due to bad mixing or accelerated curing times. Unlaquered carbon car body parts can be affected by moisture in the resins, turns them a milky white and difficult to get rid of once affected.
In reply to Post #22
Yes you are right it is mainly due to curing of the epoxy resin either wrong temp or as you say poor mixing which results in the whitening , this however leads to becoming brittle which is when moisture will start to penetrate the whipping , car polish will sort the problem you have i would think , as it does,nt sound too bad .
Yes you are right it is mainly due to curing of the epoxy resin either wrong temp or as you say poor mixing which results in the whitening , this however leads to becoming brittle which is when moisture will start to penetrate the whipping , car polish will sort the problem you have i would think , as it does,nt sound too bad .
In reply to Post #23
Thanks jeffire, the Harrisons are not far off 30 years old, I really should strip them right down and re-whip them with new rings. But, they're all still attached and in line so will probably keep putting it off.
Sorry to the OP for going off topic.
Thanks jeffire, the Harrisons are not far off 30 years old, I really should strip them right down and re-whip them with new rings. But, they're all still attached and in line so will probably keep putting it off.
Sorry to the OP for going off topic.
In reply to Post #22
my whippings were going white in the damp on my harrisons which i built in 1994, and although they slowly returned to black after a day or two, the resin was beginning to fracture/crack around the ring feet. CPR (chris palmer rebuilds) rebuilt everything and so far despite being submerged on several occasions, no whitening
my whippings were going white in the damp on my harrisons which i built in 1994, and although they slowly returned to black after a day or two, the resin was beginning to fracture/crack around the ring feet. CPR (chris palmer rebuilds) rebuilt everything and so far despite being submerged on several occasions, no whitening
In reply to Post #25
The quality of products around these days should ensure no whitening anymore , as i have said before seymo is the one to stay clear of it goes white just looking at it.
The quality of products around these days should ensure no whitening anymore , as i have said before seymo is the one to stay clear of it goes white just looking at it.