In reply to Post #15
Agreed, I think I'd use tape tho
I've only recently started using lacquers, but I'm finding a clear coat makes a world of difference with wear resistance.
Mind you I've had insulating tape on my reel seat hoods for 18 months, with the adhesive oozing out when it's warm
Agreed, I think I'd use tape tho
I've only recently started using lacquers, but I'm finding a clear coat makes a world of difference with wear resistance.
Mind you I've had insulating tape on my reel seat hoods for 18 months, with the adhesive oozing out when it's warm
In reply to Post #16
Vinyl wrap is much better than insulation tape.
Vinyl wrap is much better than insulation tape.
In reply to Post #14
Stainless is definitely tricky as you say. Some years ago I read some info about this from a specialist stainless finisher.
Adhesion of the base coat is probably hardest to achieve but after that it's relatively straight forward.
To get good results you must first degrease and abrade the surface in some way, not only to provide a key but also to remove the chromium oxide before immediately applying your specialist primer.
The oxide returns in a few hours so all needs to be done ASAP.
Stainless is definitely tricky as you say. Some years ago I read some info about this from a specialist stainless finisher.
Adhesion of the base coat is probably hardest to achieve but after that it's relatively straight forward.
To get good results you must first degrease and abrade the surface in some way, not only to provide a key but also to remove the chromium oxide before immediately applying your specialist primer.
The oxide returns in a few hours so all needs to be done ASAP.
In reply to Post #18
Would smooth Hammerite work
Would smooth Hammerite work
In reply to Post #19
All things will work to a degree but some better than others. Hammerite will not adhere well and would still need a specialist primer. Even then some other paints would probably resist mechanical damage better.
All things will work to a degree but some better than others. Hammerite will not adhere well and would still need a specialist primer. Even then some other paints would probably resist mechanical damage better.
In reply to Post #7
That sounds very interesting.
Do you do that spray can system in any colours or black?
Presumably you would need a good mask when using.
That sounds very interesting.
Do you do that spray can system in any colours or black?
Presumably you would need a good mask when using.
In reply to Post #21
From researching for a solution to "varnishing" rod blanks, these 2-part cans are not the cheapest option and have a very short shelf life once the can has been popped - something like 24hrs.
To the OP - Butt cap is simple - as Noj pointed out - the other parts - I assume this is a trim part between the butt and reel seat and a winding check transitioning the foregrip to the blank?
For these parts to be replaced is not going to be cheap compared to a paint job or vinyl.
From researching for a solution to "varnishing" rod blanks, these 2-part cans are not the cheapest option and have a very short shelf life once the can has been popped - something like 24hrs.
To the OP - Butt cap is simple - as Noj pointed out - the other parts - I assume this is a trim part between the butt and reel seat and a winding check transitioning the foregrip to the blank?
For these parts to be replaced is not going to be cheap compared to a paint job or vinyl.
In reply to Post #22
There are a few options for DIY bike painting that should work well on rods, my carbon road bike is translucent green
You can get the 2k paint cans in any colour you like, not sure on cost for non standard tho. A clear coat is advisable to avoid wear
By the time you've bought primer laquer clearcoat masking and wet and dry your half way to the cost of a rebuild
Vinyl tape and a delrin cap seems the best option to me
There are a few options for DIY bike painting that should work well on rods, my carbon road bike is translucent green
You can get the 2k paint cans in any colour you like, not sure on cost for non standard tho. A clear coat is advisable to avoid wear
By the time you've bought primer laquer clearcoat masking and wet and dry your half way to the cost of a rebuild
Vinyl tape and a delrin cap seems the best option to me
In reply to Post #22
Yes like any 2 pack paint the can would no doubt need to be used almost immediately.
However it might be another option for someone who hasn't spraying equipment but wants a hard wearing paint finish.
I don't know the cost of these cans but might be cheaper than sending the rods away to a rod builder.
Just something else for him to consider as he did ask about good paint.
Yes like any 2 pack paint the can would no doubt need to be used almost immediately.
However it might be another option for someone who hasn't spraying equipment but wants a hard wearing paint finish.
I don't know the cost of these cans but might be cheaper than sending the rods away to a rod builder.
Just something else for him to consider as he did ask about good paint.
In reply to Post #1
Use tape or vinyl, and use a razor blade to get the edges correct.
2 min job and will save a lot of money /hassle swapping collars.
Swap the cap for a Delrin one.
Use tape or vinyl, and use a razor blade to get the edges correct.
2 min job and will save a lot of money /hassle swapping collars.
Swap the cap for a Delrin one.
Thanks for all the comments and recommendations everyone I appreciate it.
I've been in contact with a rod builder and to replace it all really isn't going to cost me that much, no where near what I expected and the turn around time is pretty quick aswell so I'm just going to do that I think that way I no it's done right.
I've been in contact with a rod builder and to replace it all really isn't going to cost me that much, no where near what I expected and the turn around time is pretty quick aswell so I'm just going to do that I think that way I no it's done right.