In reply to Post #15
Only ever so slightly oiled too. The drag is a brake, it needs to clamp down when required to stop a fish or keep from slippage during a cast but also allow line to be released smoothly under pressure. Nobody lubricates the brake discs or rims of a car, motorbike or bicycle.
Grease can make it sticky, attract and hold more crap, increase thickness of washer stack and can be problematic when hot. Carbon is fine to grease with the correct product
Only ever so slightly oiled too. The drag is a brake, it needs to clamp down when required to stop a fish or keep from slippage during a cast but also allow line to be released smoothly under pressure. Nobody lubricates the brake discs or rims of a car, motorbike or bicycle.
Grease can make it sticky, attract and hold more crap, increase thickness of washer stack and can be problematic when hot. Carbon is fine to grease with the correct product
In reply to Post #14
How did you upgrade the line clips?
Line friendly clips are available from several places, but I done my SS2600's & other peoples Tournies with Shimano round line clips, springs & e-clips. The SS2600's were easily done with an inch of 1mm sprung wire straightened out & pushed through the hole in the line clip to secure.
How did you upgrade the line clips?
Line friendly clips are available from several places, but I done my SS2600's & other peoples Tournies with Shimano round line clips, springs & e-clips. The SS2600's were easily done with an inch of 1mm sprung wire straightened out & pushed through the hole in the line clip to secure.
In reply to Post #14
I purchased some self fit ones, I think they're from south custom reels. I found I had to add some glue to them when fitting, but they work fine. 👍🏻👍🏻
I purchased some self fit ones, I think they're from south custom reels. I found I had to add some glue to them when fitting, but they work fine. 👍🏻👍🏻
In reply to Post #1
Depends on the reel, I looked at tarting up an ss2600 but the cost just didn't justify it so I purchased a better reel.
Depends on the reel, I looked at tarting up an ss2600 but the cost just didn't justify it so I purchased a better reel.
In reply to Post #4
I had my original iso serviced and upgrades added.
Better spool clicker
Bearing race in handle
Spool skirt stability improved.
Other than that nothing could be bettered.
I had my original iso serviced and upgrades added.
Better spool clicker
Bearing race in handle
Spool skirt stability improved.
Other than that nothing could be bettered.
In reply to Post #16
The drag is a brake,
Actually a Reels Drag is just the opposite, it's a "Clutch" Designed to slip when at a pre-determined level of rotary torque is reached, which is set by the adjustment Knob.
Wet or Dry Clutch? all depends on what material the Clutch Plates (Washers as called in Reels) are made of, Oil can destroy some Carbon ones.
Reel up grades: I've actually over the past few months been playing with a old Penn Multiplier I've re-engineered to work and cast under the Rod.
Everything works, winds in just as if a Fixed Spool Reel was fitted, only been using it for Spodding. The only issues I've had are lack of line clip, and the Braking system to slow the Spool down; it's an old Reel and relies on a knurled spring Loaded Cap adding braking pressure directly onto the Spools axle end.
Wonder if newer Multipliers would be better with Magnetic braking systems, would they be more suitable?
Good entertainment learning to use it thou.
The drag is a brake,
Actually a Reels Drag is just the opposite, it's a "Clutch" Designed to slip when at a pre-determined level of rotary torque is reached, which is set by the adjustment Knob.
Wet or Dry Clutch? all depends on what material the Clutch Plates (Washers as called in Reels) are made of, Oil can destroy some Carbon ones.
Reel up grades: I've actually over the past few months been playing with a old Penn Multiplier I've re-engineered to work and cast under the Rod.
Everything works, winds in just as if a Fixed Spool Reel was fitted, only been using it for Spodding. The only issues I've had are lack of line clip, and the Braking system to slow the Spool down; it's an old Reel and relies on a knurled spring Loaded Cap adding braking pressure directly onto the Spools axle end.
Wonder if newer Multipliers would be better with Magnetic braking systems, would they be more suitable?
Good entertainment learning to use it thou.
In reply to Post #21
A reel‘s clutch is part of the anti reverse system.
The drag doesn't affect the mechanical ‘driving' of the rotor, simplified it could be described as a clutch as it is designed to slip but so is a brake until it is locked.
A reel‘s clutch is part of the anti reverse system.
The drag doesn't affect the mechanical ‘driving' of the rotor, simplified it could be described as a clutch as it is designed to slip but so is a brake until it is locked.
In reply to Post #22
The Drag/Clutch in a reel is a safety feature, so the spool will “Slip” rather than snapping the line, that's all it is, a Bait Runner feature is a secondary Drag/Clutch that allows a 2nd setting to allow line to be released even more freely so resistance is not felt by the fish.
Does not matter where the Clutch is located in the dive as long as it allows the main spindle to the spooled line to slip if required.
The Anti-reverse be it via ratchet and Pawl mechanism or a One way drive Bearing is just that - to stop the movement of the whole gear chain in one direction. It's a totally different entity.
The Drag/Clutch in a reel is a safety feature, so the spool will “Slip” rather than snapping the line, that's all it is, a Bait Runner feature is a secondary Drag/Clutch that allows a 2nd setting to allow line to be released even more freely so resistance is not felt by the fish.
Does not matter where the Clutch is located in the dive as long as it allows the main spindle to the spooled line to slip if required.
The Anti-reverse be it via ratchet and Pawl mechanism or a One way drive Bearing is just that - to stop the movement of the whole gear chain in one direction. It's a totally different entity.
In reply to Post #23
I'm not disagreeing with you that the properties of a drag aren't similar or the same as a clutch, Keith. Albeit in reverse as it is decreasing momentum.
But the fact remains that if you were to order a replacement ‘clutch' without a parts diagram, you would receive a one way roller bearing, which helps initiate the mechanical drive when the handle is turned.
What about the brakes on a multiplier, which incrementally increase resistance in the same way a drag does?
I'll settle for secondary or deceleration clutch
I'm not disagreeing with you that the properties of a drag aren't similar or the same as a clutch, Keith. Albeit in reverse as it is decreasing momentum.
But the fact remains that if you were to order a replacement ‘clutch' without a parts diagram, you would receive a one way roller bearing, which helps initiate the mechanical drive when the handle is turned.
What about the brakes on a multiplier, which incrementally increase resistance in the same way a drag does?
I'll settle for secondary or deceleration clutch
In reply to Post #24
Perhaps a closer analogy to a drag rather than a straight forward brake or clutch would be the overload clutches found in engineering drive systems.
Very common in agriculture to limit the torque in the event of an overload or sudden stop scenario.
Slip clutch, overload clutch, torque limiter etc. All allow a fixed drive until a preset torque is reached then they release just like a reel drag.
Perhaps a closer analogy to a drag rather than a straight forward brake or clutch would be the overload clutches found in engineering drive systems.
Very common in agriculture to limit the torque in the event of an overload or sudden stop scenario.
Slip clutch, overload clutch, torque limiter etc. All allow a fixed drive until a preset torque is reached then they release just like a reel drag.
In reply to Post #25
Now you've opened a can of worms
Now you've opened a can of worms
In reply to Post #26
I've a set of emblem x that I've had upgraded with line clip quick drag slow oscillation wooden handles and a extra bearing which basically makes them in to a emblem z . If you ask me why I had it all done I couldn't tell you think it's this pandemic and Henri Weston's cider lol next project is me 6000t which will have slow oscilation all ready quick dragged and I c you can now get a new gear for the reverse on them that takes the a lot of the play out of them
I've a set of emblem x that I've had upgraded with line clip quick drag slow oscillation wooden handles and a extra bearing which basically makes them in to a emblem z . If you ask me why I had it all done I couldn't tell you think it's this pandemic and Henri Weston's cider lol next project is me 6000t which will have slow oscilation all ready quick dragged and I c you can now get a new gear for the reverse on them that takes the a lot of the play out of them