Hi all
Can anyone recommend a strong thick gauge chod hook available in size 6 or 8?
I want to use smaller pop ups - 11 or 12mm for fishing at distance but need a strong reliable hook as I'll be using braid mainline and the lake is shallow and weedy.
Cheers
Can anyone recommend a strong thick gauge chod hook available in size 6 or 8?
I want to use smaller pop ups - 11 or 12mm for fishing at distance but need a strong reliable hook as I'll be using braid mainline and the lake is shallow and weedy.
Cheers
In reply to Post #1
Angling Iron and JP Precision are sturdy types.
Angling Iron and JP Precision are sturdy types.
Drennan conti - been around since man started fishing and still the best.
I always use very small hooks usually 10s and worry far less about strength than with bigger hooks. For me (and I ain't no scientist) it is all about leverage and a small hook is very had to open as it doesn't have the length / pivot to apply pressure in the right place. My size 10 Korda wide gapes have never even distorted slightly. But totally get the uestion when using braid.
To high jack a bit, anyone know a decent small chod hook 8 or 10) with an eye big enough for 15lb boom (knotless)
To high jack a bit, anyone know a decent small chod hook 8 or 10) with an eye big enough for 15lb boom (knotless)
In reply to Post #1
Atomic Chodda's are the strongest I've come across - very, very tough hooks.
Atomic Chodda's are the strongest I've come across - very, very tough hooks.
In reply to Post #1
Korda choddy in an 8 are great hooks 👍
Korda choddy in an 8 are great hooks 👍
In reply to Post #1
Thanks all, some good recommendations.
Appreciate it 👍
Thanks all, some good recommendations.
Appreciate it 👍
In reply to Post #5
I think atomic are the strongest hooks in all patterns and they sharpen up well
I think atomic are the strongest hooks in all patterns and they sharpen up well
In reply to Post #8
Yup, savagely strong. Those recommending Korda and J Precision.... decent hooks, but strongest? Miles off lads.
Yup, savagely strong. Those recommending Korda and J Precision.... decent hooks, but strongest? Miles off lads.
In reply to Post #9
Have you had bad experiences with these hooks ?
https://www.jprecisionhooks.co.uk/products/advanced-chod
Have you had bad experiences with these hooks ?
https://www.jprecisionhooks.co.uk/products/advanced-chod
In reply to Post #10
Nope - decent hooks. But I know from sharpening them that they're not as tough as others. Tbf, I was referring to the JP Precision Points range - not the Advanced range (which I've never tried). The Precisions, and the Korda's, can be licked sharp by a kitten. Doesn't mean they're bad hooks - but just not as tough as others
Nope - decent hooks. But I know from sharpening them that they're not as tough as others. Tbf, I was referring to the JP Precision Points range - not the Advanced range (which I've never tried). The Precisions, and the Korda's, can be licked sharp by a kitten. Doesn't mean they're bad hooks - but just not as tough as others
Nash hooks are seriously strong, had a 75kg sturgeon on a size 6 Chod Twister, and the hook was still like new! Super sharp straight out of the pack. I've bent out a J Precision Curve before, but still prefer J Precision when I can use hand-sharpened hooks.
In reply to Post #11
If they sharpen that easily then they're not hardened steel, hardened steel gets brittle, harder to sharpen keep their point for longer but more prone to suddenly snapping. The milder steels less prone to snapping, more prone to bending. Glass is incredibly strong, also, incredibly brittle.
If you have a Drennan Conti., try closing the barb with pliers, I've tried and they snapped every time, I had to Dremel the barbs off.
As a previous poster has written, a smaller hook provides less leverage for the fish, goes in deeper and quicker and softer rods will take the strain off the hook with braided mainline.
There's a number of factors in play.
If they sharpen that easily then they're not hardened steel, hardened steel gets brittle, harder to sharpen keep their point for longer but more prone to suddenly snapping. The milder steels less prone to snapping, more prone to bending. Glass is incredibly strong, also, incredibly brittle.
If you have a Drennan Conti., try closing the barb with pliers, I've tried and they snapped every time, I had to Dremel the barbs off.
As a previous poster has written, a smaller hook provides less leverage for the fish, goes in deeper and quicker and softer rods will take the strain off the hook with braided mainline.
There's a number of factors in play.
In reply to Post #13
All carp hooks are hardened/heat treated. But there is a huge range of hardnesses. The real stiff ones are 550 HV +, the softer ones are 400-450 HV. I worked in metal forming/heat treating for nearly 20 years and managed the quality and lab teams for 15 of those so I know a bit about it.
Carp hooks are made from spring steels (various grades of carbon steel). They're hardened/tempered, austempered, or cryogenically hardened depending on the supplier and the exact grade of steel.They act as a spring during the fight which is critical- they need to flex.
I actually tested a load of hooks in my lab years back and posted the results on here. The korda were soft as you like but that's still very, very hard compared to a mild i.e. low carbon steel. No carp hooks use low carbon steel, you'd be able to bend them by hand (<200 HV).
You need to go past 600 HV to get really brittle, but that doesn't mean they can't snap at less than that, especially near the bend where the yield strength (of the steel prior to heat treatment) has already been exceeded during forming.
The Conti's and the Choddas are right up at 550ish ... tough as old boots.... but not so hard that they'll snap during the fight.
All carp hooks are hardened/heat treated. But there is a huge range of hardnesses. The real stiff ones are 550 HV +, the softer ones are 400-450 HV. I worked in metal forming/heat treating for nearly 20 years and managed the quality and lab teams for 15 of those so I know a bit about it.
Carp hooks are made from spring steels (various grades of carbon steel). They're hardened/tempered, austempered, or cryogenically hardened depending on the supplier and the exact grade of steel.They act as a spring during the fight which is critical- they need to flex.
I actually tested a load of hooks in my lab years back and posted the results on here. The korda were soft as you like but that's still very, very hard compared to a mild i.e. low carbon steel. No carp hooks use low carbon steel, you'd be able to bend them by hand (<200 HV).
You need to go past 600 HV to get really brittle, but that doesn't mean they can't snap at less than that, especially near the bend where the yield strength (of the steel prior to heat treatment) has already been exceeded during forming.
The Conti's and the Choddas are right up at 550ish ... tough as old boots.... but not so hard that they'll snap during the fight.
In reply to Post #14
Have a go at compressing the barb on a conti, I'd be interested in others results.
Have a go at compressing the barb on a conti, I'd be interested in others results.