I am looking to start using a shock leader in my spod rod and hoping for a bit of advice on length to use. I have some decent higher strength braid to use but no idea of the length to put on the spool. Never needed one before, spombing to 100 yards has been fine with only one crack off ever, and that was human error with a line clip. Just bought a Deeper I am going to use on it hence looking for that extra bit of security with a leader rather than using the braid all the way through as I have traditionally done. Advice appreciated
In reply to Post #1
Put enough so that when your spomb is where you'd have it to cast ,that you have a good 3 or 4 turns on the reel. You don't need any more than that
Put enough so that when your spomb is where you'd have it to cast ,that you have a good 3 or 4 turns on the reel. You don't need any more than that
In reply to Post #1
I have the apps by the spigot on the rod and there will be 6/8 turns on the reel of the shockleader material.
Brent
I have the apps by the spigot on the rod and there will be 6/8 turns on the reel of the shockleader material.
Brent
In reply to Post #1
give these a go, saves hassle. just make sure the 40lb is at the spod end lol
link
give these a go, saves hassle. just make sure the 40lb is at the spod end lol
link
In reply to Post #1
Thanks all
Thanks all
In reply to Post #5
All depends on how good a knot you've tied between the braid and the leader. If you are happy with a decent FG knot that will fly through the rings easily enough then have a few wind on turns however for regular casting have the knot outside of the top eye.
All depends on how good a knot you've tied between the braid and the leader. If you are happy with a decent FG knot that will fly through the rings easily enough then have a few wind on turns however for regular casting have the knot outside of the top eye.
In reply to Post #6
with them korda leaders I just use a an albright knot to my braid
with them korda leaders I just use a an albright knot to my braid
In reply to Post #6
Just re-reading your post, wouldn't a braid shock leader be pointless ?
Surely the whole purpose is to add that little bit pf elasticity and extra abrasion resistance that mono offers ?
Just re-reading your post, wouldn't a braid shock leader be pointless ?
Surely the whole purpose is to add that little bit pf elasticity and extra abrasion resistance that mono offers ?
In reply to Post #6
Outside of the top eye? As in not on the spool at all? That is totally the wrong thing for a shock leader.and it's for his spod rod so abrasion resistance isn't an issue
Outside of the top eye? As in not on the spool at all? That is totally the wrong thing for a shock leader.and it's for his spod rod so abrasion resistance isn't an issue
In reply to Post #6
Looking at your picture it may be that you are big game fisherman where a heavy mono rubbing leader is needed for trolling. A casting shockleader is totally different. It is designed to be used to protect a lighter mainline from the shock of the sudden loading on the line during a powerful cast. As such it must run from the lead to the reel and be firmly held on the spool by several turns around the spool. 4 will usually do it but I prefer 6. So 25/30 ft is the length you need. The way you describe would reduce the breaking strain of the system to that of the light mainline, rendering the leader useless. That's a bit of very dangerous and incorrect advice. Sorry, no offence intended.
Looking at your picture it may be that you are big game fisherman where a heavy mono rubbing leader is needed for trolling. A casting shockleader is totally different. It is designed to be used to protect a lighter mainline from the shock of the sudden loading on the line during a powerful cast. As such it must run from the lead to the reel and be firmly held on the spool by several turns around the spool. 4 will usually do it but I prefer 6. So 25/30 ft is the length you need. The way you describe would reduce the breaking strain of the system to that of the light mainline, rendering the leader useless. That's a bit of very dangerous and incorrect advice. Sorry, no offence intended.
In reply to Post #1
as ip said 4 is optimal for long cast but 1 or two more not gonna make much difference.
as ip said 4 is optimal for long cast but 1 or two more not gonna make much difference.
In reply to Post #1
On my spomb rod I find as little turns as possible best
Half a turn max for me, I'd even have the knot just below your finger.
For fishing thats different because your planning on playing the fish close in and don't want you knot taking the pressure
Keep em short as possible
On my spomb rod I find as little turns as possible best
Half a turn max for me, I'd even have the knot just below your finger.
For fishing thats different because your planning on playing the fish close in and don't want you knot taking the pressure
Keep em short as possible
In reply to Post #10
No offence taken at all, I am more than aware of the difference between shock leaders and trolling / wind on leaders. I also use them when casting heavy lures with braid. In the latter instance I use shock leaders shorter than the ‘drop' when casting.
I certainly wouldn't class the advice as incorrect or ‘dangerous' though. If the shock leader is wound onto the reel then it has no cushioning effect whatsoever on the cast.
No offence taken at all, I am more than aware of the difference between shock leaders and trolling / wind on leaders. I also use them when casting heavy lures with braid. In the latter instance I use shock leaders shorter than the ‘drop' when casting.
I certainly wouldn't class the advice as incorrect or ‘dangerous' though. If the shock leader is wound onto the reel then it has no cushioning effect whatsoever on the cast.
In reply to Post #12
Sorry, thats just bad advice
Sorry, thats just bad advice
In reply to Post #13
If it's not on the reel prior to the cast it can't be classed as a shockleader it would then be a snag or rubbing leader . The whole point of a shockleader is to take the stress during the cast allowing you to use a lighter breaking strain mainline to obtain greater distances with heavier leads Spods etc without the risk of cracking off 🤷♂️
If it's not on the reel prior to the cast it can't be classed as a shockleader it would then be a snag or rubbing leader . The whole point of a shockleader is to take the stress during the cast allowing you to use a lighter breaking strain mainline to obtain greater distances with heavier leads Spods etc without the risk of cracking off 🤷♂️
In reply to Post #13
The shock leader is to withstand the shock of casting, not to cushion it.
Personally tho, every crack off I've ever had has involved a shock leader, and always happened immediately after the knot.
So I don't use them anymore
The shock leader is to withstand the shock of casting, not to cushion it.
Personally tho, every crack off I've ever had has involved a shock leader, and always happened immediately after the knot.
So I don't use them anymore
In reply to Post #13
That advice has the potential to be very dangerous. If the shock leader isn't wound onto the reel then the lower strain mainline is taking the force of the cast, potentially overloading the line and causing it to snap, and have a lead hurtling through the air like a missile.
That advice has the potential to be very dangerous. If the shock leader isn't wound onto the reel then the lower strain mainline is taking the force of the cast, potentially overloading the line and causing it to snap, and have a lead hurtling through the air like a missile.
Or snap on the wind up and slice your finger off.
In reply to Post #13
A shock leader is a casting leader. If it's not got 3 turns or more on the reel then it's not taking the force of the cast.
A shock leader is a casting leader. If it's not got 3 turns or more on the reel then it's not taking the force of the cast.
I make sure I have a minimum of 4 turns on the reel. I have switched to braid on the spod rod (😮😉 
, and use a 40lb mono leader for casting a medium Spomb, and a 3.5oz lead for leading around to 70metres.
The best way to reduce crack-offs on casting is make sure the leader knot is at the back of the spool, nearest you, otherwise the line can catch.
The shock leader is to withstand the shock of casting, not to cushion it.
Personally tho, every crack off I've ever had has involved a shock leader, and always happened immediately after the knot.
So I don't use them anymore
, and use a 40lb mono leader for casting a medium Spomb, and a 3.5oz lead for leading around to 70metres.The best way to reduce crack-offs on casting is make sure the leader knot is at the back of the spool, nearest you, otherwise the line can catch.
The shock leader is to withstand the shock of casting, not to cushion it.
Personally tho, every crack off I've ever had has involved a shock leader, and always happened immediately after the knot.
So I don't use them anymore
In reply to Post #20
There are dozens of 'best ways' to prevent crack offs.
Don't get me wrong, I was nowhere as bad as some who seem to go through 3 spods a session, but they happen occasionally.
I Swapped to heavy braid straight through to cope with weed rakes, but it's just so much more forgiving.
I don't have to retrieve slowly with the tip under the water to keep even tension, don't have to consider the knot position, and don't wince when the wind changes mid session and I'm risking overloading the rod(causing overrecovery and slack line) to reach the spot.
And i can still put a dot spod beyond where I can put a rig.
If I'm casting a £300 bit of tech I'd trade 10 yards for reliability all day long
There are dozens of 'best ways' to prevent crack offs.
Don't get me wrong, I was nowhere as bad as some who seem to go through 3 spods a session, but they happen occasionally.
I Swapped to heavy braid straight through to cope with weed rakes, but it's just so much more forgiving.
I don't have to retrieve slowly with the tip under the water to keep even tension, don't have to consider the knot position, and don't wince when the wind changes mid session and I'm risking overloading the rod(causing overrecovery and slack line) to reach the spot.
And i can still put a dot spod beyond where I can put a rig.
If I'm casting a £300 bit of tech I'd trade 10 yards for reliability all day long
In reply to Post #21
out of interest what braid are you using, and what distances can you comfortably hit?
I've always used 25 or 30lb braid with a 50lb leader, but I do like the idea of straight through.
out of interest what braid are you using, and what distances can you comfortably hit?
I've always used 25 or 30lb braid with a 50lb leader, but I do like the idea of straight through.
In reply to Post #22
I'm using 58lb j braid, probably a touch heavier than needed.
I can't really do a comparison for achievable distances, but I could still hit 130 comfortably with my 13ft fox xt, that's about the limit for my fishing rods so I never tried to go further. I was casting a marker setup 160 with that rod when I first got it, using 30lb braid and a shock leader
I've since bought a new spod rod this year, but I haven't used it much and haven't had/wanted to go much beyond 100yds.
The 8 strand braids are easier to manage than the older types, I don't even bother wetting it before casting anymore. I'm sure it costs a bit of distance with this setup but it doesn't limit me and it does as its told. I'm yet to have a frap up or crack off in 2 (admittedly slow) years, I would have expected at least 1 or 2 in that time with the old setup
I'm using 58lb j braid, probably a touch heavier than needed.
I can't really do a comparison for achievable distances, but I could still hit 130 comfortably with my 13ft fox xt, that's about the limit for my fishing rods so I never tried to go further. I was casting a marker setup 160 with that rod when I first got it, using 30lb braid and a shock leader
I've since bought a new spod rod this year, but I haven't used it much and haven't had/wanted to go much beyond 100yds.
The 8 strand braids are easier to manage than the older types, I don't even bother wetting it before casting anymore. I'm sure it costs a bit of distance with this setup but it doesn't limit me and it does as its told. I'm yet to have a frap up or crack off in 2 (admittedly slow) years, I would have expected at least 1 or 2 in that time with the old setup
In reply to Post #21
In reply to Post #20
There are dozens of 'best ways' to prevent crack offs.
Don't get me wrong, I was nowhere as bad as some who seem to go through 3 spods a session, but they happen occasionally.
I Swapped to heavy braid straight through to cope with weed rakes, but it's just so much more forgiving.
I don't have to retrieve slowly with the tip under the water to keep even tension, don't have to consider the knot position, and don't wince when the wind changes mid session and I'm risking overloading the rod(causing overrecovery and slack line) to reach the spot.
And i can still put a dot spod beyond where I can put a rig.
If I'm casting a £300 bit of tech I'd trade 10 yards for reliability all day long
I haven't had a crack-off in years either, and like you I don't have to think about retrieving.
My only problem is that a Spomb sometimes doesn't open, and to be honest that is usually my own fault for hitting the clip (too hard) and 'flattening' the Spomb as it impacts the water rather than diving in tip first.
I haven't even tried outcasting my fishing rods, not with the Sonik Spod/Marker rod, and I don't think I ever did it with Big Bertha either.
I say I haven't had a crack-off, I did catch up in a massive floating weed raft last week with just a tournament lead, (my own fault for trying to be clever using the lead to drag it) and the leader knot gave way on the retrieve. I think the weed raft was about the size of a hatchback car. A fresh leader and I pulled the whole lot back in, and got my original leader, bomb etc back.
I have cracked off a few times with shockleaders on a multiplier when sea fishing, usually as you have said when the wind changes or is in your face and you try to push too hard. Mind you casting a 5/6oz lead and 3 tails loaded with rag and lug is a bit different.
In reply to Post #20
There are dozens of 'best ways' to prevent crack offs.
Don't get me wrong, I was nowhere as bad as some who seem to go through 3 spods a session, but they happen occasionally.
I Swapped to heavy braid straight through to cope with weed rakes, but it's just so much more forgiving.
I don't have to retrieve slowly with the tip under the water to keep even tension, don't have to consider the knot position, and don't wince when the wind changes mid session and I'm risking overloading the rod(causing overrecovery and slack line) to reach the spot.
And i can still put a dot spod beyond where I can put a rig.
If I'm casting a £300 bit of tech I'd trade 10 yards for reliability all day long
I haven't had a crack-off in years either, and like you I don't have to think about retrieving.
My only problem is that a Spomb sometimes doesn't open, and to be honest that is usually my own fault for hitting the clip (too hard) and 'flattening' the Spomb as it impacts the water rather than diving in tip first.
I haven't even tried outcasting my fishing rods, not with the Sonik Spod/Marker rod, and I don't think I ever did it with Big Bertha either.
I say I haven't had a crack-off, I did catch up in a massive floating weed raft last week with just a tournament lead, (my own fault for trying to be clever using the lead to drag it) and the leader knot gave way on the retrieve. I think the weed raft was about the size of a hatchback car. A fresh leader and I pulled the whole lot back in, and got my original leader, bomb etc back.
I have cracked off a few times with shockleaders on a multiplier when sea fishing, usually as you have said when the wind changes or is in your face and you try to push too hard. Mind you casting a 5/6oz lead and 3 tails loaded with rag and lug is a bit different.
Reading ALL pages