knot recommendations for 0.14 whiplash to a braided shockleader (0.35)? I have always just used 50lb braid straight through on my spod setup, but new lake cant get the distance required. To a fluro leader i have always used an albright knot but not sure if the suppleness of both ends being braid would allow it to bed down properly without collaping on itself. Was also thinking double uni might be ok? Will have a play later but if anyone has a reliable suggestion might save me a bit of time and some nervous casts! Cheers
In reply to Post #1
Albright knot
7 turns up then 5 turns back whipping with the thinner braid works well for me
Albright knot
7 turns up then 5 turns back whipping with the thinner braid works well for me
In reply to Post #2
2nd the Albright
2nd the Albright
In reply to Post #2
Cheers fellas 👍
Cheers fellas 👍
In reply to Post #4
I use a back to back grinner for braid to braid connection
I use a back to back grinner for braid to braid connection
In reply to Post #5
Same as myself , never had a problem with this knot.
Same as myself , never had a problem with this knot.
Mahin knot, i added some extra turns to ensure the thin braid doesnt slip. Perfect.
In reply to Post #1
I wouldn't bother. You're just creating a weak link and will hardly gain any extra distance from doing that. You're better off improving your casting technique or upgrading your gear (rod/reel). My money is on the former...
I wouldn't bother. You're just creating a weak link and will hardly gain any extra distance from doing that. You're better off improving your casting technique or upgrading your gear (rod/reel). My money is on the former...
In reply to Post #8
Sorry don't agree. If you are pursuing absolute distance a heavy shockleader to cope with a heavy lead and as light a mainline as you can get away with is the only route. It will give you extra yards. If you can cast using good technique it will help even more. Back to back 6 turn grinner will do the job. If you use a long enough shock leader it takes the Shock. Not the knot
Sorry don't agree. If you are pursuing absolute distance a heavy shockleader to cope with a heavy lead and as light a mainline as you can get away with is the only route. It will give you extra yards. If you can cast using good technique it will help even more. Back to back 6 turn grinner will do the job. If you use a long enough shock leader it takes the Shock. Not the knot
In reply to Post #1
Mahin knot for me. Very reliable and both tag ends are at the back of the knot.
Mahin knot for me. Very reliable and both tag ends are at the back of the knot.
For braid to braid I would use Mahin as well and leave the tag ends about half an inch 
mahin
In reply to Post #7
I have just re-done the braid to braid on my marker rod.
I used a mahin knot with 12 turns of the thinner reel braid going up, and another 6 turns going back down over the turns.
A bit of saliva before easing up tight and it beds down perfectly with no slippage if using thicker braids.
If using very thin spod braids then it will slip, so do the following... 🤓
If you do find there is slippage then do it again, but then add a single overhand knot in the shockie about 5mm from the finished knot. Then you need to wrap the thin mainline and the shockie around two bits of stick or something that will give you a secure grip and then slowly increase tension as you try and pull the two ends apart.
What should happen is that the knotted part of the thin braid starts to slip and then butts up against the overhand knot.
This will now be rock solid 💪🏻
I have just re-done the braid to braid on my marker rod.
I used a mahin knot with 12 turns of the thinner reel braid going up, and another 6 turns going back down over the turns.
A bit of saliva before easing up tight and it beds down perfectly with no slippage if using thicker braids.
If using very thin spod braids then it will slip, so do the following... 🤓
If you do find there is slippage then do it again, but then add a single overhand knot in the shockie about 5mm from the finished knot. Then you need to wrap the thin mainline and the shockie around two bits of stick or something that will give you a secure grip and then slowly increase tension as you try and pull the two ends apart.
What should happen is that the knotted part of the thin braid starts to slip and then butts up against the overhand knot.
This will now be rock solid 💪🏻
In reply to Post #1
I use a knot that I think is called a uni knot? Possibly a back to back uni. I use 20lb spomb braid with a 50lb whiplash leader and it's never failed on me. 👍🏻👍🏻
I use a knot that I think is called a uni knot? Possibly a back to back uni. I use 20lb spomb braid with a 50lb whiplash leader and it's never failed on me. 👍🏻👍🏻
In reply to Post #1
Back to back uni knot. Less turns on the shock leader (thicker material)
Back to back uni knot. Less turns on the shock leader (thicker material)
In reply to Post #1
Back to back six turn grinner has never failed me
Back to back six turn grinner has never failed me
In reply to Post #1
Back to back grinner
Back to back grinner
Mahin knot for me
In reply to Post #13
That's the way I do it on the Spod rod, leaving longer tag ends although it seems counterintuitive is definitely better and stops frap ups etc
That's the way I do it on the Spod rod, leaving longer tag ends although it seems counterintuitive is definitely better and stops frap ups etc
In reply to Post #13
Quote: If you do find there is slippage then do it again, but then add a single overhand knot in the shockie about 5mm from the finished knot. Then you need to wrap the thin mainline and the shockie around two bits of stick or something that will give you a secure grip and then slowly increase tension as you try and pull the two ends apart.
What should happen is that the knotted part of the thin braid starts to slip and then butts up against the overhand knot.
This will now be rock solid 💪🏻
Here is a close up picture showing the mahin knot with the added overhand knot, as described.
Quote: If you do find there is slippage then do it again, but then add a single overhand knot in the shockie about 5mm from the finished knot. Then you need to wrap the thin mainline and the shockie around two bits of stick or something that will give you a secure grip and then slowly increase tension as you try and pull the two ends apart.
What should happen is that the knotted part of the thin braid starts to slip and then butts up against the overhand knot.
This will now be rock solid 💪🏻
Here is a close up picture showing the mahin knot with the added overhand knot, as described.
Back to back grinner for me, never had one go, but wouldn’t expect it to as always have at least 5 turns of the shockleader on the spool and then the drop to the spigot. The knot is never under any pressure during casting.
In reply to Post #21
+1. I did try another but can't even remember what it was now 😂
+1. I did try another but can't even remember what it was now 😂
Double Uni trimmed down tight works for me with 20lb Gardner Distance kinetic to 60lb Whiplash. Super neat.
I used to make sure the knot is at the bottom of the spool on the cast, but it's so small & hasn't caused me issue in the years of using it, I don't worry anymore.
I used to make sure the knot is at the bottom of the spool on the cast, but it's so small & hasn't caused me issue in the years of using it, I don't worry anymore.
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