I have a summit cobalt buzz bar set up, and I've noticed that the buzz bars seem to have developed rust spots on the cobalt parts. My question is, and excuse my stupidity, should this happen? Could I have prevented it? And is their any way to rectify it?
Cheers 👍🏻👍🏻
Cheers 👍🏻👍🏻
In reply to Post #1
Over Christmas I'll be having a break from fishing so now seems a good time to bump this post and see if anyone has any suggestions for getting the rust off. Cheers
Over Christmas I'll be having a break from fishing so now seems a good time to bump this post and see if anyone has any suggestions for getting the rust off. Cheers
In reply to Post #1
Get in contact with summit
Get in contact with summit
Sounds like they're using a s hit grade of stainless?
In reply to Post #1
Does a magnet stick to them?
With sinks I find wet newspaper works well, but that is staining from contamination rather than the material rusting.
I'd contact the company personally, it's poor if the products are rusting
Does a magnet stick to them?
With sinks I find wet newspaper works well, but that is staining from contamination rather than the material rusting.
I'd contact the company personally, it's poor if the products are rusting
In reply to Post #4
exactly get onto them and ask them what type of stainless they use?,and dont except 316 bollox
is it
1 Austenitic
2 Ferritic
3 Duplex
4 Martensitic
if there engineers they will be able to tell you mate.
exactly get onto them and ask them what type of stainless they use?,and dont except 316 bollox
is it
1 Austenitic
2 Ferritic
3 Duplex
4 Martensitic
if there engineers they will be able to tell you mate.
In reply to Post #6
The website says military grade
The website says military grade
In reply to Post #2
Clearly stainless shouldn't rust, however try Autosol metal polish, works very well on my old car,available from good auto spare shops or Amazon, don't go to a chemist and inadvertently buy Anusol 😂😂😂😂
Tel
Clearly stainless shouldn't rust, however try Autosol metal polish, works very well on my old car,available from good auto spare shops or Amazon, don't go to a chemist and inadvertently buy Anusol 😂😂😂😂
Tel
In reply to Post #6
What is b*llocks about saying it's 316? If it is 316 it's austenitic, ie the alloy contains chromium and nickel.
Austenitic alloys are good for corrosion resistance, hence 316 being called ‘marine' grade. However salt water will still corrode eventually.
The other types on your list have different properties, ie tensile strength, but are not as resistant to corrosion.
What is b*llocks about saying it's 316? If it is 316 it's austenitic, ie the alloy contains chromium and nickel.
Austenitic alloys are good for corrosion resistance, hence 316 being called ‘marine' grade. However salt water will still corrode eventually.
The other types on your list have different properties, ie tensile strength, but are not as resistant to corrosion.
In reply to Post #9
this is exactly the explanation he wants.thank you
this is exactly the explanation he wants.thank you
In reply to Post #10
This is why I asked if a magnet will stick, as it won't stick to austenitic grades.
I'm dubious of anything advertised as 'military grade'
This is why I asked if a magnet will stick, as it won't stick to austenitic grades.
I'm dubious of anything advertised as 'military grade'
In reply to Post #11
I agree, military grade means nothing. What military and for what function?!
Also, much military equipment is to a budget to the lowest bidder. Not a guarantee of quality at all.
I agree, military grade means nothing. What military and for what function?!
Also, much military equipment is to a budget to the lowest bidder. Not a guarantee of quality at all.
In reply to Post #11
'm dubious of anything advertised as 'military grade'
Yes first time I heard the term military grade in fishing gear was the Solartronic alarms and I didn't believe it then.
'm dubious of anything advertised as 'military grade'
Yes first time I heard the term military grade in fishing gear was the Solartronic alarms and I didn't believe it then.
There is one exception – Titanium, every single length has its own documentation with a huge list of test passes, and matching codes etched into every length to provide total tracability.
It means “Tested to military grade standards”
It means “Tested to military grade standards”
In reply to Post #9
Austenitic still isn't as corrosion resistant as Ferritic or Duplex....
all steels contain Iron so will rust if damaged but the Chromium content in Stainless allows it form a protective layer on the surface to protect it should it get scratched etc
Also if the water has a high chloride levels this will also cause stainless to rust.... Im not sure whats classed as high though.
The manufacturer will be able to provide you with the Material test certificates etc should you wish to look at them but they wont make much sense unless you know what your looking for!
Austenitic still isn't as corrosion resistant as Ferritic or Duplex....
all steels contain Iron so will rust if damaged but the Chromium content in Stainless allows it form a protective layer on the surface to protect it should it get scratched etc
Also if the water has a high chloride levels this will also cause stainless to rust.... Im not sure whats classed as high though.
The manufacturer will be able to provide you with the Material test certificates etc should you wish to look at them but they wont make much sense unless you know what your looking for!
Did you get in contact with them 8j the end if so what was the outcome?... As mine have started surface rusting on the stainless and black parts and they get dried off as well so not ideal.
In reply to Post #16
I fished next to a guy just before Christmas and his Summit cobalt buzz bars had started to rust on the black areas...
I fished next to a guy just before Christmas and his Summit cobalt buzz bars had started to rust on the black areas...
In reply to Post #16
have you got pictures of the rust mate as was explaining this to a mate who also is looking to buy some and want to show him
have you got pictures of the rust mate as was explaining this to a mate who also is looking to buy some and want to show him
In reply to Post #18
Yes I have mate, can send you then if you want. They sent me some replacements out though so fair play.
Yes I have mate, can send you then if you want. They sent me some replacements out though so fair play.
In reply to Post #19
Yh pm me them please mate so I can show him as he is in 2 minds wethwr to get them or not
Yh pm me them please mate so I can show him as he is in 2 minds wethwr to get them or not
In reply to Post #11
That's a myth Dave. Austenitic stainless steel can be magnetic. Any working or treatment can form ferrite in stainless. Any worked steel containing iron can be magnetic. It is not indicative of the quality of the material.
I have no idea what the black material is that they use to make this pod but I very much doubt it's cobalt. Cobalt is however used in electroplating/passivation/chromate systems so my guess it's just plated stainless.
Regards 316, duplex , etc.... any austenitic stainless should be up to the job. It's packed full of Cr/Ni so is self passivating. 316 etc is imo overkill for none marine/none sour applications.
A question for the lads with rust issues..... is the rust red? (that might sound like a silly question but corrosion of different metals are different colours e.g. copper alloys like brass go green and zinc goes white). Red rust is corrosion of iron so if it is red it could be traces of the tool steel used to work the stainless that's rusting on the surface. Or it could be a galvanic issue i.e. incompatible materials. Guess work at the end of the day as we don't know what the black stuff is.
That's a myth Dave. Austenitic stainless steel can be magnetic. Any working or treatment can form ferrite in stainless. Any worked steel containing iron can be magnetic. It is not indicative of the quality of the material.
I have no idea what the black material is that they use to make this pod but I very much doubt it's cobalt. Cobalt is however used in electroplating/passivation/chromate systems so my guess it's just plated stainless.
Regards 316, duplex , etc.... any austenitic stainless should be up to the job. It's packed full of Cr/Ni so is self passivating. 316 etc is imo overkill for none marine/none sour applications.
A question for the lads with rust issues..... is the rust red? (that might sound like a silly question but corrosion of different metals are different colours e.g. copper alloys like brass go green and zinc goes white). Red rust is corrosion of iron so if it is red it could be traces of the tool steel used to work the stainless that's rusting on the surface. Or it could be a galvanic issue i.e. incompatible materials. Guess work at the end of the day as we don't know what the black stuff is.
In reply to Post #21
Yes rust is red.
Yes rust is red.
In reply to Post #22
Did they give you an explanation buddy?
I see 3 guys on here with issues so replacing like-for-like is decent but probs isn't the answer. It doesn't address the actual issue.
Did they give you an explanation buddy?
I see 3 guys on here with issues so replacing like-for-like is decent but probs isn't the answer. It doesn't address the actual issue.
In reply to Post #23
No they didnt tbf, must be known 5o them though to just send out some, if it was surprising to them you'd think they'd ask more questions and maybe want my rusty ones back to inspect them but no.
No they didnt tbf, must be known 5o them though to just send out some, if it was surprising to them you'd think they'd ask more questions and maybe want my rusty ones back to inspect them but no.
In reply to Post #21
I've learnt a bit more about it since writing that post
The Japanese vg10 knives with magnetic knife block I bought threw me
In the building game when stainless Steel is spec'd its usually labelled as a2, pain in the bum when your used to fixings that stick to the drivers. I also learned long ago to keep drivers exclusively for stainless or you often get rust on screw heads etc. for sinks I look for grades like 18/10 316 etc as I kept having expensive sinks pitting/rusting
Even knowing a bit more about it I still wouldn't buy magnetic stainless banksticks, that's been a common denominator of 'stainless components I've had rust/pit
I bet you have the same look on your face reading posts like that as I do when someone insists you need to use hardwood for a given situation
I've learnt a bit more about it since writing that post
The Japanese vg10 knives with magnetic knife block I bought threw me
In the building game when stainless Steel is spec'd its usually labelled as a2, pain in the bum when your used to fixings that stick to the drivers. I also learned long ago to keep drivers exclusively for stainless or you often get rust on screw heads etc. for sinks I look for grades like 18/10 316 etc as I kept having expensive sinks pitting/rusting
Even knowing a bit more about it I still wouldn't buy magnetic stainless banksticks, that's been a common denominator of 'stainless components I've had rust/pit
I bet you have the same look on your face reading posts like that as I do when someone insists you need to use hardwood for a given situation
In reply to Post #24
Agree karmh.
@dave, made me chuckle mate.
Another one for you, the A grade designations (a1, a2 etc) come from a standard that applies specifically to nuts and bolts. Loads of people use them to label stainless steels for other application but they're actually just another designation for your standard austenitics (301, 302, 316 etc ).
A2 is equivalent to 304 which is what a lot of bank stuff is made from. It's a decent grade. All austenitics are sound in terms of corrosion resistance
Agree karmh.
@dave, made me chuckle mate.
Another one for you, the A grade designations (a1, a2 etc) come from a standard that applies specifically to nuts and bolts. Loads of people use them to label stainless steels for other application but they're actually just another designation for your standard austenitics (301, 302, 316 etc ).
A2 is equivalent to 304 which is what a lot of bank stuff is made from. It's a decent grade. All austenitics are sound in terms of corrosion resistance
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