Can anyone recommend a really good camera light for night shots. Got the original rhino and not really impressed with it . The white light on it over exposes the pictures, the orange lens improves it but can't say it's massively better than Using the flash
The rotolight looks amazing but the price is ridiculous
The rotolight looks amazing but the price is ridiculous
In reply to Post #1
Look on aliexpress.com website for ulanzi camera lights loads of different ones on there with adjustable brightness . The rhino beam ones are just ulanzi ones with rhino beams name on it
Look on aliexpress.com website for ulanzi camera lights loads of different ones on there with adjustable brightness . The rhino beam ones are just ulanzi ones with rhino beams name on it
In reply to Post #1
If you use the search function on here there's a thread about them ,Gerry posted a link to the Ali express one . It's very good
If you use the search function on here there's a thread about them ,Gerry posted a link to the Ali express one . It's very good
In reply to Post #1
What camera are you using mate?
If it's your phone or a compact, the light itself can't really cause exposure issues, it's the camera's metering making those decisions. It might be worth having a play with the modes and positioning of the light.
Disable the on camera flash, position your rhino light close and try to angle it so the reflections actually MISS the camera lens and see what modes you have to experiment with.
Have a look at photography folding reflectors on the web, they're cheap and a brilliant tool... if you can get a mate to hold one or rig it to a bankstick, you can use it to soften the light of any light source.
May also be worth reading two other recent threads in this forum, one called Canon 600d user advice and one called Photography guidance.
What camera are you using mate?
If it's your phone or a compact, the light itself can't really cause exposure issues, it's the camera's metering making those decisions. It might be worth having a play with the modes and positioning of the light.
Disable the on camera flash, position your rhino light close and try to angle it so the reflections actually MISS the camera lens and see what modes you have to experiment with.
Have a look at photography folding reflectors on the web, they're cheap and a brilliant tool... if you can get a mate to hold one or rig it to a bankstick, you can use it to soften the light of any light source.
May also be worth reading two other recent threads in this forum, one called Canon 600d user advice and one called Photography guidance.
In reply to Post #4
I use a fuji mirrorless xt30 just the one lens which is 45mm. I am still learning the ropes with photography and my day time pics I've got to a decent level well a level I'm happy with but I'm really struggling to get good quality night pictures
I know I won't get the level of quality I get in the day but the drop off seems way to steep. Either I'm just doing something wrong with the camera or it's the lighting. Good shout with putting the light on a bankstick to get a better position I will definitely try that
I use a fuji mirrorless xt30 just the one lens which is 45mm. I am still learning the ropes with photography and my day time pics I've got to a decent level well a level I'm happy with but I'm really struggling to get good quality night pictures
I know I won't get the level of quality I get in the day but the drop off seems way to steep. Either I'm just doing something wrong with the camera or it's the lighting. Good shout with putting the light on a bankstick to get a better position I will definitely try that
In reply to Post #5
I'm not familiar with it but looks like that's a great camera and has manual modes that you can use with the rhino light to get a balanced exposure. You can either go with exposure compensation in the auto modes, or I think simpler is to just go full manual and then the camera can't be making any mistakes.
The rhino light (probably) has a fairly constant output, so if you want to go manual, you can practice in the garden at night to find a decent combination of ISO, shutter speed and aperture to use as a starting point, then when you are doing it for real, you should be able to get it right with minor adjustments of aperture.
Your camera can also work with a decent off camera flash like a godox, which will totally blow a rhino light away.
Same basic principles for either type of light though -
Close as practicably possible to subject, consider a reflector or even a second light, soften the light as much as possible. The bigger the light source, the softer the light it produces.
Don't be too surprised by the drop off in quality at night.... there's just no easy way of lighting a wet shiny object with artificial light. I was a pro photographer for some years, and that's about as challenging as it gets. Those glossy car shots with see through reflections in the magazine ads take a warehouse sized space and truckloads of lighting gear to shoot.
In all truth...If it's safe, retaining til dawn is the best way to get a decent picture.
I'm not familiar with it but looks like that's a great camera and has manual modes that you can use with the rhino light to get a balanced exposure. You can either go with exposure compensation in the auto modes, or I think simpler is to just go full manual and then the camera can't be making any mistakes.
The rhino light (probably) has a fairly constant output, so if you want to go manual, you can practice in the garden at night to find a decent combination of ISO, shutter speed and aperture to use as a starting point, then when you are doing it for real, you should be able to get it right with minor adjustments of aperture.
Your camera can also work with a decent off camera flash like a godox, which will totally blow a rhino light away.
Same basic principles for either type of light though -
Close as practicably possible to subject, consider a reflector or even a second light, soften the light as much as possible. The bigger the light source, the softer the light it produces.
Don't be too surprised by the drop off in quality at night.... there's just no easy way of lighting a wet shiny object with artificial light. I was a pro photographer for some years, and that's about as challenging as it gets. Those glossy car shots with see through reflections in the magazine ads take a warehouse sized space and truckloads of lighting gear to shoot.
In all truth...If it's safe, retaining til dawn is the best way to get a decent picture.
In reply to Post #5
https://www.slrlounge.com/how-to-use-a-reflector-for-photography/
Quick scan of this may help.
I know your original query was more exposure related, but once you crack the exposure, you're going to want to get softer light as that's really the most crucial part of using artificial light for fish.
https://www.slrlounge.com/how-to-use-a-reflector-for-photography/
Quick scan of this may help.
I know your original query was more exposure related, but once you crack the exposure, you're going to want to get softer light as that's really the most crucial part of using artificial light for fish.
In reply to Post #1
the NEW version is completely adjustable and IMO the perfect light this is the Light Rhino have rebadged
LINKY POO
the NEW version is completely adjustable and IMO the perfect light this is the Light Rhino have rebadged
LINKY POO
In reply to Post #6
you can practice in the garden at night
That is good advise,, i will try that. I have just gone from a Coleman lantern which was OK to a far better Bankside lighting system, downside I need to get the set up right, fish are lit up too much. Practice in the garden, not on the bank!
you can practice in the garden at night
That is good advise,, i will try that. I have just gone from a Coleman lantern which was OK to a far better Bankside lighting system, downside I need to get the set up right, fish are lit up too much. Practice in the garden, not on the bank!
In reply to Post #7
How would you hold one of those reflectors for a 3am selfie?
Personally I haven't found anything that beats the simple reflector brolly on a bankstick.
The biggest tip to improve your night shots is to get the light higher than your eyes.
Personally I tend to have my lighting further away, I hate the black background that results from setting the light close, and also don't carry any modifier big enough to avoid the difference in exposure you'd get across you and the fish without having 2 lights.
I use off camera flash tho, that has a lot more power that these little led panels.
If your camera has custom modes on the dial it's worth assigning one for night shots to make it easier when your in that knackered but excited mode, and see what gives you better results between spot metering and centre weighted metering.
If you have an interest in photography beyond fish shots, the strobist website is a brilliant way to get to grips with the lighting
How would you hold one of those reflectors for a 3am selfie?
Personally I haven't found anything that beats the simple reflector brolly on a bankstick.
The biggest tip to improve your night shots is to get the light higher than your eyes.
Personally I tend to have my lighting further away, I hate the black background that results from setting the light close, and also don't carry any modifier big enough to avoid the difference in exposure you'd get across you and the fish without having 2 lights.
I use off camera flash tho, that has a lot more power that these little led panels.
If your camera has custom modes on the dial it's worth assigning one for night shots to make it easier when your in that knackered but excited mode, and see what gives you better results between spot metering and centre weighted metering.
If you have an interest in photography beyond fish shots, the strobist website is a brilliant way to get to grips with the lighting
In reply to Post #10
Yes, true - a reflector brolly is easier to rig than a disc. Good suggestion.
It's probably a better tool in terms of rigging for self takes in fairness.
A folding reflector is something I would always recommend to anyone though, they're just so useful and cost about the same as three beers.
I usually end up using quick clamps or gaff taping reflector to fence/tree/landing net.
When i say get the light close, I just mean as close as you can practicably get. If it's not evenly lighting the fish then it's too close.
Yes, true - a reflector brolly is easier to rig than a disc. Good suggestion.
It's probably a better tool in terms of rigging for self takes in fairness.
A folding reflector is something I would always recommend to anyone though, they're just so useful and cost about the same as three beers.
I usually end up using quick clamps or gaff taping reflector to fence/tree/landing net.
When i say get the light close, I just mean as close as you can practicably get. If it's not evenly lighting the fish then it's too close.
In reply to Post #10
I found it best not to set phone cameras for night shots,nearly all of them decide that night shots needed long exposure times which is not good at all, just leave it on daytime setting and use lots of light..
I found it best not to set phone cameras for night shots,nearly all of them decide that night shots needed long exposure times which is not good at all, just leave it on daytime setting and use lots of light..
In reply to Post #11
Those reflectors are really versatile, I've got a few sizes and colour options. The one I take fishing only seems to get used as a rain cover for the camera tho
I'm not sure if these led lights have the guts to work with a modifier tbh, the ones I have give me rubbish settings @5ft, by the time the modifier has spilt half the light it's gonna be a struggle.
Gimme a speedlight all day long
Those reflectors are really versatile, I've got a few sizes and colour options. The one I take fishing only seems to get used as a rain cover for the camera tho
I'm not sure if these led lights have the guts to work with a modifier tbh, the ones I have give me rubbish settings @5ft, by the time the modifier has spilt half the light it's gonna be a struggle.
Gimme a speedlight all day long