Having just returned a nice fish to the river with no picture....
After a bit of advice please. Replaced my g12 with a 600d when it broke last year. I'm using the standard lens and the 10 second / 10 shot timer. I've tried a number of different setting but can't get it to take a decent night self shot. I've taken a few nice pictures in the day of mates with fish etc.
Before I flog it, anyone kind enough to share a simple set up/setting for self takes on the 600D?
Many thanks
Joe
After a bit of advice please. Replaced my g12 with a 600d when it broke last year. I'm using the standard lens and the 10 second / 10 shot timer. I've tried a number of different setting but can't get it to take a decent night self shot. I've taken a few nice pictures in the day of mates with fish etc.
Before I flog it, anyone kind enough to share a simple set up/setting for self takes on the 600D?
Many thanks
Joe
In reply to Post #1
Best advice I was given was to put the camera in Manual, set ISO at 400, shutter to 1/125 second and aperture at F4 and let the flash work it all for you. I tried some "dummy" shots using other settings and that works best.
I use a pair of banksticks with a cord set at about 5 foot and get them in the shot and then twist the barrel so they disappear. I use a good old fashion air bulb trigger but intervolometers are better if your camera will recognise them. The 10 second timer isn't fair on the fish and I wouldn't use it.
Best advice I was given was to put the camera in Manual, set ISO at 400, shutter to 1/125 second and aperture at F4 and let the flash work it all for you. I tried some "dummy" shots using other settings and that works best.
I use a pair of banksticks with a cord set at about 5 foot and get them in the shot and then twist the barrel so they disappear. I use a good old fashion air bulb trigger but intervolometers are better if your camera will recognise them. The 10 second timer isn't fair on the fish and I wouldn't use it.
In reply to Post #1
A Intervalometer will work with the 600D, i use it on a tripod from ARGOS with a couple of LED's on bank sticks illuminating me.
I use my landing net as a distance marker, turn the screen to face me and have the focus point tipexd onto the lens, {manual focus}, other settings i use in auto.
A Intervalometer will work with the 600D, i use it on a tripod from ARGOS with a couple of LED's on bank sticks illuminating me.
I use my landing net as a distance marker, turn the screen to face me and have the focus point tipexd onto the lens, {manual focus}, other settings i use in auto.
Hi there - I'm a much better (pro) photographer than I am a carp angler - this advice for any DSLR or camera with manual settings.
Auto settings are the weak link with night photography - basically, the camera's computer just can't see enough info for it to make decent decisions, so the key is to take as many of those decisions off it's plate.
Most importantly, focus. If there's not enough light, the camera's autofocus is useless...it'll just burn batteries trying and never get there. So set your camera to manual focus, set up a camera position and your mat in daylight, and get it right then. If you are putting the camera away, then you can mark the correct position on the lens with a chinagraph or tape so that it can be checked when it comes back out.
Exposure - most DSLR's will have a built in flash, which does all the work of getting the exposure balanced. (TTL metering)
So, as the flash is doing the work, shutter speed isn't very important. 125th will be fine for all night shots lit with flash. Aperture is equally unimportant to the exposure, so may as well be the 'sweet' spot of your lens, which is probably f5.6 - f8, both will work, but experiment.
Remember, the flash is doing the work, so if you want brighter or darker images, adjust the flash, not the camera settings.
ISO the lower the number, the brighter the flash has to be, the higher the number, the more 'noisy/grainy' the image is. 400 is fine, 800 means your batteries last better.... back in the 2000's 800 was pushing it, but more modern cameras can shoot clean images at very high ISO - always best to experiment and figure your own kit out.
White balance - flash is usually a setting, but it's very close to daylight - so have a try and see which one you prefer the look of.
To up the game - those hotshoe mounted flash heads will blow the built in one out of the water for performance. Even better if its off the camera, to the side a bit. Better still if it's bounced off a bigger reflector, like those umbrellas the school photographer used (or a folding reflector clipped on to your brolly, or even just a white bit of fabric). These 'soften' the light, basically by making the source bigger, and shiny wet carp want lighting as soft as possible. (this is why overcast day pictures have less harsh shadows and reflections than sunny day ones)
It's a bit more kit to carry and a bit more faffing to set up, but absolutely levels up the image quality.
Final note, if you can safely retain the fish until daylight - the pics will always be better. A shiny wet object lit by flash is a challenge even for a pro photographer.
Auto settings are the weak link with night photography - basically, the camera's computer just can't see enough info for it to make decent decisions, so the key is to take as many of those decisions off it's plate.
Most importantly, focus. If there's not enough light, the camera's autofocus is useless...it'll just burn batteries trying and never get there. So set your camera to manual focus, set up a camera position and your mat in daylight, and get it right then. If you are putting the camera away, then you can mark the correct position on the lens with a chinagraph or tape so that it can be checked when it comes back out.
Exposure - most DSLR's will have a built in flash, which does all the work of getting the exposure balanced. (TTL metering)
So, as the flash is doing the work, shutter speed isn't very important. 125th will be fine for all night shots lit with flash. Aperture is equally unimportant to the exposure, so may as well be the 'sweet' spot of your lens, which is probably f5.6 - f8, both will work, but experiment.
Remember, the flash is doing the work, so if you want brighter or darker images, adjust the flash, not the camera settings.
ISO the lower the number, the brighter the flash has to be, the higher the number, the more 'noisy/grainy' the image is. 400 is fine, 800 means your batteries last better.... back in the 2000's 800 was pushing it, but more modern cameras can shoot clean images at very high ISO - always best to experiment and figure your own kit out.
White balance - flash is usually a setting, but it's very close to daylight - so have a try and see which one you prefer the look of.
To up the game - those hotshoe mounted flash heads will blow the built in one out of the water for performance. Even better if its off the camera, to the side a bit. Better still if it's bounced off a bigger reflector, like those umbrellas the school photographer used (or a folding reflector clipped on to your brolly, or even just a white bit of fabric). These 'soften' the light, basically by making the source bigger, and shiny wet carp want lighting as soft as possible. (this is why overcast day pictures have less harsh shadows and reflections than sunny day ones)
It's a bit more kit to carry and a bit more faffing to set up, but absolutely levels up the image quality.
Final note, if you can safely retain the fish until daylight - the pics will always be better. A shiny wet object lit by flash is a challenge even for a pro photographer.
In reply to Post #1
Camera on a tripod, Set to Auto, flip screen facing the mat. I now use the foot pedal that rhino do as I find it so easy. Before that I was doing them with the canon remote fob held in my hand under the anal fin, easy enough but the pedal is even better. I use 2 rhino lights facing me about 3ft away either side between me and the camera. I can't see how I can improve on that. Perfect night shots.
Camera on a tripod, Set to Auto, flip screen facing the mat. I now use the foot pedal that rhino do as I find it so easy. Before that I was doing them with the canon remote fob held in my hand under the anal fin, easy enough but the pedal is even better. I use 2 rhino lights facing me about 3ft away either side between me and the camera. I can't see how I can improve on that. Perfect night shots.
In reply to Post #4
While I don't disagree with what you're saying Canon must have spent a good few ££ getting the auto setting right on their cameras. It's as close as it needs to be unless you're doing it for a living. My night shots done in auto are spot on.
While I don't disagree with what you're saying Canon must have spent a good few ££ getting the auto setting right on their cameras. It's as close as it needs to be unless you're doing it for a living. My night shots done in auto are spot on.
In reply to Post #6
Not knocking Canon at all, their auto settings are absolutely as good as they get, but they still have their limitations.
Even with the camera in manual, the flash is still working on Auto settings.
If Auto is working, happy days. But if it's not doing what you want, those manual settings will fix a lot of the problems.
Just hoping to help out anyone who's struggling with their night time photography. Biggest problem I have with my pictures is catching anything to photograph.
Not knocking Canon at all, their auto settings are absolutely as good as they get, but they still have their limitations.
Even with the camera in manual, the flash is still working on Auto settings.
If Auto is working, happy days. But if it's not doing what you want, those manual settings will fix a lot of the problems.
Just hoping to help out anyone who's struggling with their night time photography. Biggest problem I have with my pictures is catching anything to photograph.
In reply to Post #5
Ahhhh I just noticed you are using rhino lights.... your camera is seeing enough light to do it's thing with no problems. Your set up would also be the best option for anyone using a phone.
My earlier comments maybe still useful for anyone using flash and dealing with using the camera in conditions where it's too dark for it to focus and meter well in auto.
Ahhhh I just noticed you are using rhino lights.... your camera is seeing enough light to do it's thing with no problems. Your set up would also be the best option for anyone using a phone.
My earlier comments maybe still useful for anyone using flash and dealing with using the camera in conditions where it's too dark for it to focus and meter well in auto.