Where is the bulk of the loads when casting a shock leader?
Currently fishing very long 140-165 most weeks and upto now I've been using shockleaders straight through to the lead.
But thinking about fishcare I'd like have around 18” of fluorocarbon just so it's not braid direct against the fish.
My worry is when casting now the knot will be taking the load and will it cope. Don't want to reduce range as it's paid off massively this year already. Haven't had any mishaps or fish damage but also don't want any going forward.
I've made the leaders up and it all looks good bar having two knots now.
Would like peoples thought's, I could use leadless leader but prefer fluoro.
Currently fishing very long 140-165 most weeks and upto now I've been using shockleaders straight through to the lead.
But thinking about fishcare I'd like have around 18” of fluorocarbon just so it's not braid direct against the fish.
My worry is when casting now the knot will be taking the load and will it cope. Don't want to reduce range as it's paid off massively this year already. Haven't had any mishaps or fish damage but also don't want any going forward.
I've made the leaders up and it all looks good bar having two knots now.
Would like peoples thought's, I could use leadless leader but prefer fluoro.
In reply to Post #1
What about a foot of tubing?
What about a foot of tubing?
In reply to Post #2
Yea I have considered it and it might be the only way
Yea I have considered it and it might be the only way
In reply to Post #1
For some reason the knot closest to the rod tip is the one that usually gives way under pressure, that is the mainline to leader, or mainline to hooklink join.
Any further knots, shockleader to hooklink hold together. So you end up with swivel and rig attached to a leader, or rig to the hooklink swivel.
Essentially this is me saying that you would be leaving a fluorocarbon leader attached to your shockleader, by the knot joining the two. Could a run ring and lead, or can the lead be ejected if this were to happen?
Will a plain straight fluorocarbon shockleader suffice?
Point of note, at around 35-40metres, unless you have very deep water, and rod tips very high, your line is normally running across the lakebed to your end tackle anyway. I've been and waded out to my rigs in the water to examine this. If my rod rests or pod are at about knee height, the line is on the bottom from about 30metres.
I can understand if your rod tips are high at that range you are fishing.
Now if the line is on the bottom, do you still need fluorocarbon?
If I snap off when casting, it is usually between the lead and the reel, hence why a few turns of leader on the reel spool.
For some reason the knot closest to the rod tip is the one that usually gives way under pressure, that is the mainline to leader, or mainline to hooklink join.
Any further knots, shockleader to hooklink hold together. So you end up with swivel and rig attached to a leader, or rig to the hooklink swivel.
Essentially this is me saying that you would be leaving a fluorocarbon leader attached to your shockleader, by the knot joining the two. Could a run ring and lead, or can the lead be ejected if this were to happen?
Will a plain straight fluorocarbon shockleader suffice?
Point of note, at around 35-40metres, unless you have very deep water, and rod tips very high, your line is normally running across the lakebed to your end tackle anyway. I've been and waded out to my rigs in the water to examine this. If my rod rests or pod are at about knee height, the line is on the bottom from about 30metres.
I can understand if your rod tips are high at that range you are fishing.
Now if the line is on the bottom, do you still need fluorocarbon?
If I snap off when casting, it is usually between the lead and the reel, hence why a few turns of leader on the reel spool.
In reply to Post #4
I don't think I'd get the rod to compress enough and I'd lose distance with fluoro leaders or id happily do so.
If the knot breaks the rig will still eject as it's on a no trace bead on a sinker on the fluoro section. So that aspect I'm happy with.
Just wondered if the knot will hold up under extreme casts. There's still a 3 or 4ft drop of shockleader from the rod tip and 3 turns around the reel.
Touch wood I've not cracked off in the last 12 months with a bare shockleader but there's always a chance of cutting a fishes flank in doing this.
I don't think I'd get the rod to compress enough and I'd lose distance with fluoro leaders or id happily do so.
If the knot breaks the rig will still eject as it's on a no trace bead on a sinker on the fluoro section. So that aspect I'm happy with.
Just wondered if the knot will hold up under extreme casts. There's still a 3 or 4ft drop of shockleader from the rod tip and 3 turns around the reel.
Touch wood I've not cracked off in the last 12 months with a bare shockleader but there's always a chance of cutting a fishes flank in doing this.
In reply to Post #5
I will test it on a local empty pool or field before I do use it and test it as much as I can
I will test it on a local empty pool or field before I do use it and test it as much as I can
What about something like either the gemini leaders or safezone leaders? I'm not a fan of tubing so just bought both to try on a lake where leadcore is banned.
In reply to Post #7
It would put me in the same predicament. I'd have a second knot no matter what leader I use bar the tubing method.
I've made up 3 18” fluoro leaders just so they come in contact with the fish and not the braid.
Safety wise they're fine it's more if they can cope with the cast which I'm hoping they can.
It would put me in the same predicament. I'd have a second knot no matter what leader I use bar the tubing method.
I've made up 3 18” fluoro leaders just so they come in contact with the fish and not the braid.
Safety wise they're fine it's more if they can cope with the cast which I'm hoping they can.
In reply to Post #5
Touch wood I've not cracked off in the last 12 months with a bare shockleader but there's always a chance of cutting a fishes flank in doing this.
I fish naked mono, or a leader no tubing. I've not had any damaged fish like that and I don't think it will cut a fishes flank, I'd be more worried about braid or leadcore cutting the flank.
It's anti-tangle tubing, it was I think Korda who decided to market it 'to protect the fish' from line damage. Yet we fish zigs or surface baits with no tubing.
The other possibility is a good mainline straight through, I use 15lb Gardner Pro, and have really given it the big one with a 3.5oz lead, on 3.25lb rods, I've not cracked off yet, and I'm pushing as far as your casting.
Touch wood I've not cracked off in the last 12 months with a bare shockleader but there's always a chance of cutting a fishes flank in doing this.
I fish naked mono, or a leader no tubing. I've not had any damaged fish like that and I don't think it will cut a fishes flank, I'd be more worried about braid or leadcore cutting the flank.
It's anti-tangle tubing, it was I think Korda who decided to market it 'to protect the fish' from line damage. Yet we fish zigs or surface baits with no tubing.
The other possibility is a good mainline straight through, I use 15lb Gardner Pro, and have really given it the big one with a 3.5oz lead, on 3.25lb rods, I've not cracked off yet, and I'm pushing as far as your casting.
In reply to Post #9
Yea that's all I'm worried about is the braid shockleader doing damage. Hasn't to date but always a risk
Yea that's all I'm worried about is the braid shockleader doing damage. Hasn't to date but always a risk
Just been and tested it. 160 yards and no issues. Using 4 and 4.5oz leads just to really load it to check for any flaws.
10lb syncro. 30lb sinking arma kord and 18” of 30lb fluorocarbon. At least I'll feel better playing fish on a less abrasive bottom end
10lb syncro. 30lb sinking arma kord and 18” of 30lb fluorocarbon. At least I'll feel better playing fish on a less abrasive bottom end