I've cracked my old Korda easy stick and it's all over the place. I tried an old ACA frank Warrick stick years ago and it was amazing! Sadly they're no longer available.
Any recommendations for a 20mm stick up to around £70?
Thank you
Any recommendations for a 20mm stick up to around £70?
Thank you
In reply to Post #1
Whatever you Do don't get the ridgemonkey one!
If you Can still get them I know DIEM carbon sticks were available from sports direct and get pretty good reviews. Save yourself a few quid too.
Whatever you Do don't get the ridgemonkey one!
If you Can still get them I know DIEM carbon sticks were available from sports direct and get pretty good reviews. Save yourself a few quid too.
In reply to Post #1
Daiwa infinity stick
Sure you can still get them for around £70
I've tried a few including the Diem one, which is a great stick for the money
The Daiwa imo is the best I've tried though it's so light compared to others I've used
The Ridgemonkey one weighs a tonne
Daiwa infinity stick
Sure you can still get them for around £70
I've tried a few including the Diem one, which is a great stick for the money
The Daiwa imo is the best I've tried though it's so light compared to others I've used
The Ridgemonkey one weighs a tonne
In reply to Post #1
The Bombus carbon stick by Orient Rods in 23 x 1100 is up there with the ACA/FW stick. Its 99 quid so a bit more than you want to spend but worth it. Nothing else I've seen comes any where near the ACA for performance.
The Bombus carbon stick by Orient Rods in 23 x 1100 is up there with the ACA/FW stick. Its 99 quid so a bit more than you want to spend but worth it. Nothing else I've seen comes any where near the ACA for performance.
In reply to Post #1
I got the fox range master for about 70 quid,that's nice and light and does the job.Although it's the only stick I've ever used ,so cant compare.
I got the fox range master for about 70 quid,that's nice and light and does the job.Although it's the only stick I've ever used ,so cant compare.
A simple solution is to buy a cheap carbon "Whip", and just cut the handle down to the length required. Insert a bung which should have the top level with your hand and you will have a stick that will "wallop" baits out "One hell of a distance". Also. just put a couple of wraps of insulation tape around the end to stop it splitting and look a bit tidier. Red flourescent tape or white tape is best as it helps you stop standing on them, the usual demise of my sticks.
The "bung" may need fine tuning till you get the action right, if the boilies fly out low, move the bung up the stick, if they fly high, move the bung down towards the handle. Only 1/4" increments will make a big distance and you must keep the same arm action and not "chase" the stick to make it work. You will know when you have it tuned as the boilies will fly out parallel to the water with just a simple flick of the forearm. To increase range, speed up the throwing action.
All you need is the forearm action that you need for fly fishing, from 10 o'clock to 2 0'clock and pivoting at the elbow and not using any shoulder movement which is a common practice with sticks without a bung in. Too much shoulder action leads to an aching arm if you "stick" to long, but just use your forearm, and you can "stick" all day. Hence why fly fisherman can fish all day and not cry off, because they are not using their entire arm and suffering.
I have sometimes seen friends scattering bait from a few yards in front of their feet s to way past where they are fishing because the stick they are using is useless as the action you have to use is, is to raise the arm and tilt the stick backwards to get the boillie moving down the stick. The bung, cuts that movement out as the boilie is partly up the stick, and even though you are using the forearm, the pivot point of the action is your wrist as your hand creates the flick, without a bung, the pivot point is your elbow. I pop round with mine and get them to use my very short one first, initially, they still have bait going all over, but, once you show them how to stop using the whole arm and just use the forearm and to flick the wrist and then move onto the larger one, they are dead impressed and modify there own stick with a bung.
The initial throwing stick design in Rod Hutchinson's book, "The Carp Strikes Back" had a bung in it, some how, manufacturers have omitted fitting a bung. which is an essential part of a throwing stick.
But, the only problem with a straight stick is, it spins the baits like hell and splits them if they are soft, worse than a curved stick. But, an advantage is, they do now scatter bait all over and they are very precis as how you hold them is not that important, a curved one can be canted slightly left or right, and it will flick the baits off to that side. Another good advantage with a straight stick, when you have a good head wind, you can aim the baits low and they will fly low and with the spin start to climb and then drop where you want them.
With a cheap carbon whip, you should be able to make about 2 - 3 throwing sticks, my shortest one is 18" and that will flick baits out with ease very accurately to 50 - 60 yards. Beyond that distance and up to 120 yards, I resort to my larger one which I think is about 40".
So far the only decent shop bought throwing stick that I have had, and I only bought one as I tried one out and was very impressed with it, is the Nash deliverance, the long version of it. Its only plastic, and for some unknown reason, its design does not need a bung in the handle. Every proprietary one I have bought, I have had to fit a bung. But, the Nash Deliverance, it has replaced my longer straight one, just because it does not split the baits so much, but, it is not as accurate as my long straight one.
Bloody hell, I might as well have wrote a sequel to "War and Peace". Instead, I have wrote a thesis on "Throwing Sticks" worthy of a submitting for a university degree. Obviously got "nowt" to do today.
The "bung" may need fine tuning till you get the action right, if the boilies fly out low, move the bung up the stick, if they fly high, move the bung down towards the handle. Only 1/4" increments will make a big distance and you must keep the same arm action and not "chase" the stick to make it work. You will know when you have it tuned as the boilies will fly out parallel to the water with just a simple flick of the forearm. To increase range, speed up the throwing action.
All you need is the forearm action that you need for fly fishing, from 10 o'clock to 2 0'clock and pivoting at the elbow and not using any shoulder movement which is a common practice with sticks without a bung in. Too much shoulder action leads to an aching arm if you "stick" to long, but just use your forearm, and you can "stick" all day. Hence why fly fisherman can fish all day and not cry off, because they are not using their entire arm and suffering.
I have sometimes seen friends scattering bait from a few yards in front of their feet s to way past where they are fishing because the stick they are using is useless as the action you have to use is, is to raise the arm and tilt the stick backwards to get the boillie moving down the stick. The bung, cuts that movement out as the boilie is partly up the stick, and even though you are using the forearm, the pivot point of the action is your wrist as your hand creates the flick, without a bung, the pivot point is your elbow. I pop round with mine and get them to use my very short one first, initially, they still have bait going all over, but, once you show them how to stop using the whole arm and just use the forearm and to flick the wrist and then move onto the larger one, they are dead impressed and modify there own stick with a bung.
The initial throwing stick design in Rod Hutchinson's book, "The Carp Strikes Back" had a bung in it, some how, manufacturers have omitted fitting a bung. which is an essential part of a throwing stick.
But, the only problem with a straight stick is, it spins the baits like hell and splits them if they are soft, worse than a curved stick. But, an advantage is, they do now scatter bait all over and they are very precis as how you hold them is not that important, a curved one can be canted slightly left or right, and it will flick the baits off to that side. Another good advantage with a straight stick, when you have a good head wind, you can aim the baits low and they will fly low and with the spin start to climb and then drop where you want them.
With a cheap carbon whip, you should be able to make about 2 - 3 throwing sticks, my shortest one is 18" and that will flick baits out with ease very accurately to 50 - 60 yards. Beyond that distance and up to 120 yards, I resort to my larger one which I think is about 40".
So far the only decent shop bought throwing stick that I have had, and I only bought one as I tried one out and was very impressed with it, is the Nash deliverance, the long version of it. Its only plastic, and for some unknown reason, its design does not need a bung in the handle. Every proprietary one I have bought, I have had to fit a bung. But, the Nash Deliverance, it has replaced my longer straight one, just because it does not split the baits so much, but, it is not as accurate as my long straight one.
Bloody hell, I might as well have wrote a sequel to "War and Peace". Instead, I have wrote a thesis on "Throwing Sticks" worthy of a submitting for a university degree. Obviously got "nowt" to do today.
In reply to Post #6
Couple of questions. How cheap is a "cheap" carbon whip? And how long would you expect a thin walled cheap carbon tube to last? Oh and one more. How do you allow sufficient windage to prevent a vacuum effect from drastically reducing range when using a bung?
Couple of questions. How cheap is a "cheap" carbon whip? And how long would you expect a thin walled cheap carbon tube to last? Oh and one more. How do you allow sufficient windage to prevent a vacuum effect from drastically reducing range when using a bung?
In reply to Post #7
You can pick them up for less than a "Tenner". The last one I bought was a Leeda one about £6 from Chapmans just before AD took them over. And, I have never worn one out, or snapped one. I only break them when I lay them down on the ground and stand on them. Silstar whips were cheaper but I dont think you can get them now as I don't see any on Ebay. My long one is made from a Silstar whip and I have had it about 10 years or more and its still good.
You don't worry about the vacuum effect, it would only occur if it was a tight fit or almost tight fit between bait and sidewall. If it was a problem, then just drill a hole in the bung and the cap at the end. But, I have never had any problems with them.
You can pick them up for less than a "Tenner". The last one I bought was a Leeda one about £6 from Chapmans just before AD took them over. And, I have never worn one out, or snapped one. I only break them when I lay them down on the ground and stand on them. Silstar whips were cheaper but I dont think you can get them now as I don't see any on Ebay. My long one is made from a Silstar whip and I have had it about 10 years or more and its still good.
You don't worry about the vacuum effect, it would only occur if it was a tight fit or almost tight fit between bait and sidewall. If it was a problem, then just drill a hole in the bung and the cap at the end. But, I have never had any problems with them.
Nash Cyber Lite?
In reply to Post #1
I have to use the scorpion type sticks as I cannot use straight ones, and the Gardner scorpions are perfect, plastic or carbon, I hardly ever use my carbon one tbf but it is decent
I have to use the scorpion type sticks as I cannot use straight ones, and the Gardner scorpions are perfect, plastic or carbon, I hardly ever use my carbon one tbf but it is decent