I have gone through some mares with binos so now got my heart set on either of these so I'm just asking for opinion these 2 please I recent purchases some bushnel 8x25 H2O binoculars and they strain my eyea can't use them they will make my eyes bad. I was told to get some 8x42 or 10x42 instead and looking about I noticed fortis are 8x42 and the teakker ones are 10x42. I don't have any idea about binoculars but if there made for fishing/watching water they must be decent.
Has anyone got these and tell me if there worth the money. Also if they have tried both and can tell me which ones to go for.
Thanks for reading cheers
Has anyone got these and tell me if there worth the money. Also if they have tried both and can tell me which ones to go for.
Thanks for reading cheers
In reply to Post #1
What do you mean by straining your eyes? 42s will be brighter and bulkier, but I'd wonder if you've taken the time to adjust the diopter on the bushnels as that's the main cause of eye strain.
Just looked at the blurb on the fortis ones and I agree that 8x is the sweet spot, they may be OK but I would be sticking with companies who make/design optics. I'd be surprised if fortis/trakker designed any part but the logo
What do you mean by straining your eyes? 42s will be brighter and bulkier, but I'd wonder if you've taken the time to adjust the diopter on the bushnels as that's the main cause of eye strain.
Just looked at the blurb on the fortis ones and I agree that 8x is the sweet spot, they may be OK but I would be sticking with companies who make/design optics. I'd be surprised if fortis/trakker designed any part but the logo
In reply to Post #1
Both generic Chinese models plenty on Ebay for half the money Bresser 10 x42 all the features of the Fortis £52
Both generic Chinese models plenty on Ebay for half the money Bresser 10 x42 all the features of the Fortis £52
In reply to Post #2
Sorry for sounding daft but by diopter you mean the little wheel for focusing. If so yes I can get it at the clearest focus for me. They still strain my eyes and also I have trouble getting the black outline to go away when moving them further or closer to my face just like a air rifle scope.
Sorry for sounding daft but by diopter you mean the little wheel for focusing. If so yes I can get it at the clearest focus for me. They still strain my eyes and also I have trouble getting the black outline to go away when moving them further or closer to my face just like a air rifle scope.
In reply to Post #4
sounds to me like its poor adjustment (no offence intended) mate just go thru the following
1. Adjust the Eye Cups
Most binoculars have adjustable eye cups on each eyepiece. These eye cups should be DOWN if you wear glasses, UP if you do not.
2. Adjust the Width
Binoculars have two eyepieces connected by a center hinge. The eyepieces can move in and out to change how far apart they are. You want to set your eyepieces to match your eyes. To do this, first spread the eyepieces as far apart as they will go, then put the binoculars up to your eyes. Move the eyepieces together until you see the two circles in your view merge into one.
3. Set the Focus
All binoculars have a focus wheel, usually in the middle, which changes the focus of both eyepieces at once. You can use this wheel to focus your binoculars every time you look at a new bird/ or fish or target
In addition to the focus wheel, most binoculars also have a diopter ring, which is a smaller adjustment wheel that adjusts a single eyepiece (usually the right one). Often the diopter is found on the eyepiece itself. The diopter allows you to set the binoculars for your particular eyes, and you need to set it only once.
Turn both the diopter and the focus wheel counter-clockwise until they stop. Now, cover the right eyepiece (or the one with the diopter adjustment ring). Looking through the left eyepiece with your left eye, turn the focus wheel until the sign comes into focus. Get it as sharp as you can.
Next, cover the left eyepiece and look at the sign using only the right eyepiece. The sign will probably be a tiny bit blurry, so turn the diopter adjustment ring until it comes into focus.
There! You've adjusted your binoculars for the difference between your two eyes. From now on, to focus something, you'll only need to turn the focus wheel.
sounds to me like its poor adjustment (no offence intended) mate just go thru the following
1. Adjust the Eye Cups
Most binoculars have adjustable eye cups on each eyepiece. These eye cups should be DOWN if you wear glasses, UP if you do not.
2. Adjust the Width
Binoculars have two eyepieces connected by a center hinge. The eyepieces can move in and out to change how far apart they are. You want to set your eyepieces to match your eyes. To do this, first spread the eyepieces as far apart as they will go, then put the binoculars up to your eyes. Move the eyepieces together until you see the two circles in your view merge into one.
3. Set the Focus
All binoculars have a focus wheel, usually in the middle, which changes the focus of both eyepieces at once. You can use this wheel to focus your binoculars every time you look at a new bird/ or fish or target
In addition to the focus wheel, most binoculars also have a diopter ring, which is a smaller adjustment wheel that adjusts a single eyepiece (usually the right one). Often the diopter is found on the eyepiece itself. The diopter allows you to set the binoculars for your particular eyes, and you need to set it only once.
Turn both the diopter and the focus wheel counter-clockwise until they stop. Now, cover the right eyepiece (or the one with the diopter adjustment ring). Looking through the left eyepiece with your left eye, turn the focus wheel until the sign comes into focus. Get it as sharp as you can.
Next, cover the left eyepiece and look at the sign using only the right eyepiece. The sign will probably be a tiny bit blurry, so turn the diopter adjustment ring until it comes into focus.
There! You've adjusted your binoculars for the difference between your two eyes. From now on, to focus something, you'll only need to turn the focus wheel.
In reply to Post #4
As per old geezers Post, there's a bit of setup required with binos to suit your eyes. One eyecup should have a little +o- symbol, this adjustment should sort the eye strain out.
I wouldn't discourage you from upgrading to a bigger pair, I'd be looking at companies that make camera lenses, rifle scopes or telescopes tho. Also, steer well clear of single focus binos if your sensitive to eye strain
Don't ask me for tips on rifle scopes, I spent a day complaining I couldn't focus mine before I found out I was moving the parrallax adjustment knob (whatever that means) instead of the focus knob
As per old geezers Post, there's a bit of setup required with binos to suit your eyes. One eyecup should have a little +o- symbol, this adjustment should sort the eye strain out.
I wouldn't discourage you from upgrading to a bigger pair, I'd be looking at companies that make camera lenses, rifle scopes or telescopes tho. Also, steer well clear of single focus binos if your sensitive to eye strain
Don't ask me for tips on rifle scopes, I spent a day complaining I couldn't focus mine before I found out I was moving the parrallax adjustment knob (whatever that means) instead of the focus knob
If it helps
I own a set of Nikon and I bought my dad a set of bushnell but he “lost” his on a coach transfer from the airport a few years ago.
Both are good
Can't remember the models though
I own a set of Nikon and I bought my dad a set of bushnell but he “lost” his on a coach transfer from the airport a few years ago.
Both are good
Can't remember the models though
Like Polaroid Glasses and out door clothing fishing branded kit is purchased cheap and marked up I wouldn't waste my money on the majority of it. Always look at the specialists in their field rather than waste precious time and money considering Tackle/especially carp brands.
In reply to Post #5
No offence taken, thanks for the time to explain. Wow shows how much of a novice I am, I thought all you had to do I put them to your eyes and set the focus wheel until it gives you the sharpest vision and away you go. I'm pretty certain they don't have the eyecups but will try testing them the way you just explained on setting them up. Thanks alot
No offence taken, thanks for the time to explain. Wow shows how much of a novice I am, I thought all you had to do I put them to your eyes and set the focus wheel until it gives you the sharpest vision and away you go. I'm pretty certain they don't have the eyecups but will try testing them the way you just explained on setting them up. Thanks alot
Also thanks everybody else for your help I appreciate it alot.
In reply to Post #10
I just bought a set of binoculars for my fishing.
I ended up with some Celestron Granite ED 7x33 from here and I am very pleased with them. Great field of view and a good depth of field (lots in focus at the same time).
The slightly smaller objective makes them a bit more compact than an 8x42.
I just bought a set of binoculars for my fishing.
I ended up with some Celestron Granite ED 7x33 from here and I am very pleased with them. Great field of view and a good depth of field (lots in focus at the same time).
The slightly smaller objective makes them a bit more compact than an 8x42.
In reply to Post #11
I think if I lost both of my pairs I'd be looking for some variable 3-12x 32. I have 8x40 olympus ones and some 8x25 and I agree that 32mm is the right balance between bulk and decent viewing.
I think if I lost both of my pairs I'd be looking for some variable 3-12x 32. I have 8x40 olympus ones and some 8x25 and I agree that 32mm is the right balance between bulk and decent viewing.
Pricey i know but what excellent binoculars ,
Canon IS 10x30 , it really is like having them on a tripod , the image stabilization is amazing , no shake or wobble AT ALL
plenty of Youtube videos on them .
Canon IS 10x30 , it really is like having them on a tripod , the image stabilization is amazing , no shake or wobble AT ALL
plenty of Youtube videos on them .