My daughter wants me to ask hang a couple of kitchen wall cabinets, the fixings are nothing special ordinary brackets like this that go on the wall and cabinets hang on them.
I'm not a complete numpty when it comes to things like this, I've hung wall cabinets before but never on plasterboard walls. The chances of the studs being in the right place are slim so any ideas would be appreciated.
I'm not a complete numpty when it comes to things like this, I've hung wall cabinets before but never on plasterboard walls. The chances of the studs being in the right place are slim so any ideas would be appreciated.
In reply to Post #1
Google grip its plasterboard fixings , I've used them to hang rads before 👍
Google grip its plasterboard fixings , I've used them to hang rads before 👍
In reply to Post #2
There's a link at the beginning and end of that blue text, Those bolts are m5 but the m4 will work with enough brackets
Find these more reliable than a normal plug
Failing that do a cut out behind the units big enough to slot in good quality ply between studs that will sandwich the p/board when brackets are screwed into it.
There's a link at the beginning and end of that blue text, Those bolts are m5 but the m4 will work with enough brackets
Find these more reliable than a normal plug
Failing that do a cut out behind the units big enough to slot in good quality ply between studs that will sandwich the p/board when brackets are screwed into it.
In reply to Post #3
I use them when I'm being lazy (one on the load bearing side with one of the metal pig tail jobbies on the other side of the bracket) I'll usually cut a section of board out to put a decent fixing in
Before you hang them, see if you can flex the top of the cabinet at the back, and if you can then pilot and screw it. I had to take out wall units on 4 kitchens to do this earlier in the year after the supplier decided to change the design and they dropped a few mm
I use them when I'm being lazy (one on the load bearing side with one of the metal pig tail jobbies on the other side of the bracket) I'll usually cut a section of board out to put a decent fixing in
Before you hang them, see if you can flex the top of the cabinet at the back, and if you can then pilot and screw it. I had to take out wall units on 4 kitchens to do this earlier in the year after the supplier decided to change the design and they dropped a few mm
I know a total vvhanker who can help.
In reply to Post #6
Apart from Tazi's idea that will end up in court there's some good info there.
Anyone used these.. They are like a spring toggle but you don't loose the end if you take the screw out
LINK
there's some good info there.Anyone used these.. They are like a spring toggle but you don't loose the end if you take the screw out
LINK
In reply to Post #8
Why, have you bought them already
No I've never seen those, and I won't be buying any tbh, they look like they will allow a bit of movement which is a bad thing long term unless you want to adjust it periodically until it fully settles. There are loads of decent tried and tested fixings available, not worth taking a punt on them
Why, have you bought them already
No I've never seen those, and I won't be buying any tbh, they look like they will allow a bit of movement which is a bad thing long term unless you want to adjust it periodically until it fully settles. There are loads of decent tried and tested fixings available, not worth taking a punt on them
In reply to Post #8
Would probably give those a wide berth like Duggs
The other option, which can be a gamble, is to buy full lengths of the hanging rail. You may have to notch the units and they aren't a universal fit; but you can get a proper fixing in each stud with a timber noggin or plate to hold the cut end. Which will be between studs, if it's not buy a scratchcard immediately. Easier to level, hang and adjust... which is why Ikea use it, essentially it's numpty proof unless you notch your units with a hedge trimmer or drill into a pipe
*when time is of the essence you can overhang the rail, annihilate the unit and rail with a grinder to trim to length and have at least 15mm of end panel or a decorator to address the carnage.
Would probably give those a wide berth like Duggs
The other option, which can be a gamble, is to buy full lengths of the hanging rail. You may have to notch the units and they aren't a universal fit; but you can get a proper fixing in each stud with a timber noggin or plate to hold the cut end. Which will be between studs, if it's not buy a scratchcard immediately. Easier to level, hang and adjust... which is why Ikea use it, essentially it's numpty proof unless you notch your units with a hedge trimmer or drill into a pipe
*when time is of the essence you can overhang the rail, annihilate the unit and rail with a grinder to trim to length and have at least 15mm of end panel or a decorator to address the carnage.
In reply to Post #10
Not bought anything yet but won't be buying them.
I'll have to reread all of your posts a few times to see what you're getting at but thanks for now.
Those cranked metal brackets in my first post, can you get those in longer lengths?
If not using what I've got and Noj's post #2 is looking most likely at the moment
Not bought anything yet but won't be buying them.
I'll have to reread all of your posts a few times to see what you're getting at but thanks for now.
Those cranked metal brackets in my first post, can you get those in longer lengths?
If not using what I've got and Noj's post #2 is looking most likely at the moment
In reply to Post #12
I get the ones from Sds as they're local, the ikea ones are too thick for most other units and the channel is a bit shallow if I remember correctly, I try not to do ikea kitchens these days
I get the ones from Sds as they're local, the ikea ones are too thick for most other units and the channel is a bit shallow if I remember correctly, I try not to do ikea kitchens these days
In reply to Post #13
These cabinets are preassembled and from Magnet. That's what was in place when she moved in so she's just adding.
The brackets that came with it are at her house but I took a picture before I left
I know you can't say for certain without looking at them in the flesh but what's the chances of the SDS ones fitting
Would it help if I get my daughter to take some pictures of the back of the cabinets when she gets home tonight?
These cabinets are preassembled and from Magnet. That's what was in place when she moved in so she's just adding.
The brackets that came with it are at her house but I took a picture before I left
I know you can't say for certain without looking at them in the flesh but what's the chances of the SDS ones fitting
Would it help if I get my daughter to take some pictures of the back of the cabinets when she gets home tonight?
In reply to Post #14
They will fit
Add a screw at the back of the cupboard, a dowell even better, it's the magnet cupboards that have been sinking on me!
They will fit
Add a screw at the back of the cupboard, a dowell even better, it's the magnet cupboards that have been sinking on me!