I used to do float fishing a few years back but I am trying to get into the carp fishing scene.
1 thing i'm struggling to get an answer for it what breaking strain mainline and hook link i should use.
I see people saying that your mainline should be stronger than hook link but then i see people saying the other way round.
The place i'm going to start fishing has carp between 10-20 lbs and does have a small amount of weed on the lake bed, i'm planning on fishing with a lead & pop up with either a PVA solid bag or mesh attached (in case this makes a difference)
I was thinking of using a 10 or 12lb breaking strain mainline but don't know what breaking strain hook link to use as i don't know if i should use a higher or lower BS.
Could anyone please help.
Thanks.
1 thing i'm struggling to get an answer for it what breaking strain mainline and hook link i should use.
I see people saying that your mainline should be stronger than hook link but then i see people saying the other way round.
The place i'm going to start fishing has carp between 10-20 lbs and does have a small amount of weed on the lake bed, i'm planning on fishing with a lead & pop up with either a PVA solid bag or mesh attached (in case this makes a difference)
I was thinking of using a 10 or 12lb breaking strain mainline but don't know what breaking strain hook link to use as i don't know if i should use a higher or lower BS.
Could anyone please help.
Thanks.
In reply to Post #1
I'd guess that the vast majority of line breakages these days are down to crack offs as opposed to fish snapping the line.
If you intend to use bags I'd recommend 12lb minimum, 15lb if the bag and lead weighs a bit.
The Tacklebox in Dartford has a very good line guide on their website that is well worth a look.
12ln line knotted properly is adequate in most cases unless you require a tougher line to withstand heavy weed, sharp gravel, bad snags, casting heavy loads.
These days most people use a hook link that is stronger than the mainline, although the breaking strain on most spools isn't worth the label it's printed on!
As I'm sure you're probably aware, the most important thing is to use a safe rig, ie the fish will be towing the hook length (and as little else as possible) if something goes wrong.
And welcome to the forum!
I'd guess that the vast majority of line breakages these days are down to crack offs as opposed to fish snapping the line.
If you intend to use bags I'd recommend 12lb minimum, 15lb if the bag and lead weighs a bit.
The Tacklebox in Dartford has a very good line guide on their website that is well worth a look.
12ln line knotted properly is adequate in most cases unless you require a tougher line to withstand heavy weed, sharp gravel, bad snags, casting heavy loads.
These days most people use a hook link that is stronger than the mainline, although the breaking strain on most spools isn't worth the label it's printed on!
As I'm sure you're probably aware, the most important thing is to use a safe rig, ie the fish will be towing the hook length (and as little else as possible) if something goes wrong.
And welcome to the forum!
I agree pretty much with post 2 except I'd say for main lines15lb minimum and up to 18/20 for difficult conditions. Unless you really need the range from a leader and low diameter line I have never seen the need for less than 15lb. A safety margin is always worth having.
In reply to Post #1
I'd be happy to use 10lb line in a lightly weeded water, and I'd be really lazy and probably use exactly the same line as my hooklink, if I was using carp gear.
Bear in mind that the weakest point in your line is the first knot from mainline to leader or hooklink (if you use a leader), so no matter what hooklink you use, it is still likely to break at the hooklink swivel or quicklink.
I would say stick with the lighter line at the moment, but be aware if you move onto weedier waters with larger carp then be prepared to upgrade.
Would you allow me the chance of giving a bit of a history lesson?
Back when I started carp fishing 8lb line was pretty standard, with 2.25lb test curve rods. If you were really casting long distance you fished a shock leader of 15-18lb.
If you fished up to lily beds, or slightly snaggy waters then 12 or 15lb. Those lines were used on Mitchells, Abu Cardinals and original Shimano Baitrunners, up to the 4500 size.
Obviously 15lb line cut down on casting distance as the spool depth was shallower.
Since those days in the 1980's to 2000's, higher test curve rods and bigger reels have become standard, and possibly we have become 'overgunned' for most of our fishing.
The line of 8 to 12lb will comfortably land a 30lb carp, without bullying it.
A few years ago a mate and I went for a days floater fishing, the lakes we went to first we didn't fancy, so went to another water. As we had planned fishing a small lake for small fish I had my Avon rod, 4000 GTE Fighting drag Shimano reel loaded with 6lb line, however at the second lake the fish I hooked and landed was 20lb on 6lb mainline and hooklink, and was played around lily pads.
I'd be happy to use 10lb line in a lightly weeded water, and I'd be really lazy and probably use exactly the same line as my hooklink, if I was using carp gear.
Bear in mind that the weakest point in your line is the first knot from mainline to leader or hooklink (if you use a leader), so no matter what hooklink you use, it is still likely to break at the hooklink swivel or quicklink.
I would say stick with the lighter line at the moment, but be aware if you move onto weedier waters with larger carp then be prepared to upgrade.
Would you allow me the chance of giving a bit of a history lesson?
Back when I started carp fishing 8lb line was pretty standard, with 2.25lb test curve rods. If you were really casting long distance you fished a shock leader of 15-18lb.
If you fished up to lily beds, or slightly snaggy waters then 12 or 15lb. Those lines were used on Mitchells, Abu Cardinals and original Shimano Baitrunners, up to the 4500 size.
Obviously 15lb line cut down on casting distance as the spool depth was shallower.
Since those days in the 1980's to 2000's, higher test curve rods and bigger reels have become standard, and possibly we have become 'overgunned' for most of our fishing.
The line of 8 to 12lb will comfortably land a 30lb carp, without bullying it.
A few years ago a mate and I went for a days floater fishing, the lakes we went to first we didn't fancy, so went to another water. As we had planned fishing a small lake for small fish I had my Avon rod, 4000 GTE Fighting drag Shimano reel loaded with 6lb line, however at the second lake the fish I hooked and landed was 20lb on 6lb mainline and hooklink, and was played around lily pads.
In reply to Post #4
I understand you can use 8lb line and with balanced tackle less than that, no arguments. However given the quality of modern monos why would you go lighter than 15lb unless there is good reason. If you're using a lead and any kind of bolt rig a lighter line wont get you more bites.
Surface fishing and free lining then light lines may well help.
I understand you can use 8lb line and with balanced tackle less than that, no arguments. However given the quality of modern monos why would you go lighter than 15lb unless there is good reason. If you're using a lead and any kind of bolt rig a lighter line wont get you more bites.
Surface fishing and free lining then light lines may well help.
On my 2.75lb tc curves I use 12lb line as I feel it's well overgunned to use 15 and use a 15lb or 18lb hookink what ever suits the fishing situation,on my 3.25 lb tc I use 15lb and 15lb up to a 20lb flurocarbon hookink I tend not to use stronger than 20lb unless in extreme circumstances
In my opinion I would look at the test curve of the rod your using and find out some info on the lake you intend to fish e any swan mussel beds weed beds snags etc
In my opinion I would look at the test curve of the rod your using and find out some info on the lake you intend to fish e any swan mussel beds weed beds snags etc