Hi guys any info will be appreciated as i really am starting afresh in regards to dslr. I have the above camera with the 18-55mm kit lens, obviously i know a fixed prime lens would produce BETTER shots but due to having some ridulously poor catch shots from my phone i decided to buy a dslr. So with playing around i have gathered that the lower the natural light, the higher i need my iso to compensate? Also the f stop is field of depth so for a really blurry background i need the f stop at the lowest and for a full focus pic i need the f settin on the highest? The main thing im struggling with is the shutter speed, how do i get the best from it to get great pics, i know every shot is different so settings need playing with but any advice is appreciated as always, when it comes to night shots i am not going to bother with the flash as i have bought a rhino beam is it just a case of setting it up and taking a catch shot without holding the fish (retained or left in the net) until i get the desired effect or does anyone have a go to setting that they would share
In reply to Post #1
It's all a little subjective mate, but if you want more advice, take a look on YouTube for videos that explain the exposure triangle.
However, to keep it short, and very simplistic I'd recommend:
F4.5, min of 1/150 shutter and as low an ISO as possible. This is for daytime, you will need a flash or light for night shots as well.
A little bit on those settings.
Aperture (f stop) at 4.5 to The lower the number, the more light let in so the brighter the picture will be. The trade off, is the lower the number, the smaller the depth of field (the width of the plane that will be in focus). I find 4.5 gives a nice focus, and if you pus some distance between you and the background, a nice blurred background.
Shutter Speed minimum of 1/150 (1 150th of a second). The longer the shutter is open, the more light that can get in, and brighten the photo. However, the longer the shutter, the more motion blur you introduce. If you are taking a still landscape shot on a Tripod it's not an issue, but holding a moving fish, i wouldn't want to go much lower.
The balance here, is you can decrease the speed on a very bright day to say 1/500 or even 1/1000 to get the right exposure subject to iso . . .
ISO is how sensitive the camera is to light. The higher the number the brighter the picture. However, the higher the number, the more noise (grainy digital artefacts) you introduce. So I keep this as low as possible. I only raise it if the f4.5 and 1/150 are not bright enough.
It's all a little subjective mate, but if you want more advice, take a look on YouTube for videos that explain the exposure triangle.
However, to keep it short, and very simplistic I'd recommend:
F4.5, min of 1/150 shutter and as low an ISO as possible. This is for daytime, you will need a flash or light for night shots as well.
A little bit on those settings.
Aperture (f stop) at 4.5 to The lower the number, the more light let in so the brighter the picture will be. The trade off, is the lower the number, the smaller the depth of field (the width of the plane that will be in focus). I find 4.5 gives a nice focus, and if you pus some distance between you and the background, a nice blurred background.
Shutter Speed minimum of 1/150 (1 150th of a second). The longer the shutter is open, the more light that can get in, and brighten the photo. However, the longer the shutter, the more motion blur you introduce. If you are taking a still landscape shot on a Tripod it's not an issue, but holding a moving fish, i wouldn't want to go much lower.
The balance here, is you can decrease the speed on a very bright day to say 1/500 or even 1/1000 to get the right exposure subject to iso . . .
ISO is how sensitive the camera is to light. The higher the number the brighter the picture. However, the higher the number, the more noise (grainy digital artefacts) you introduce. So I keep this as low as possible. I only raise it if the f4.5 and 1/150 are not bright enough.
In reply to Post #2
Brilliant mate that made sense even for me, so initially i was sort of on the right oath which is good to know, fingers crossed i can get some great catch shots thanks
Brilliant mate that made sense even for me, so initially i was sort of on the right oath which is good to know, fingers crossed i can get some great catch shots thanks
In reply to Post #3
Best of luck. The other thing I'd recommend is test it before you catch a fish. Take some shots with all the kit setup, that way you can change the settings to your own liking.
Best of luck. The other thing I'd recommend is test it before you catch a fish. Take some shots with all the kit setup, that way you can change the settings to your own liking.
In reply to Post #3
If you Google 'the exposure triangle' you should find some helpful guides for beginners, it'll help you understand how each of the main settings affects the shot, but also how they affect the other settings. In daylight I really wouldn't bother shooting manual, use aperture priority and maybe manual iso and let the camera control the shutter speed, just keep an eye on what it is and adjust the iso to keep it to 1/100 or faster.
Practice in manual by all means but give yourself a safeguard when doing a selfie.
The rhino beams are good, but they aren't very powerful, best to use them with the flash, especially with a kit lens at the longer lengths as you'll be at around f5.6.
Get a decent bag for it and keep plenty of the little silica gel sachets you find in packaging in there to help control the moisture.
While I'm mentioning moisture, try not to take a cold camera out of its bag when you get back to a nice warm house, let it acclimatise slowly in its bag or you'll see condensation inside the lens, doing this regularly is bad news for your camera and a recipe for mould in the lens
If you Google 'the exposure triangle' you should find some helpful guides for beginners, it'll help you understand how each of the main settings affects the shot, but also how they affect the other settings. In daylight I really wouldn't bother shooting manual, use aperture priority and maybe manual iso and let the camera control the shutter speed, just keep an eye on what it is and adjust the iso to keep it to 1/100 or faster.
Practice in manual by all means but give yourself a safeguard when doing a selfie.
The rhino beams are good, but they aren't very powerful, best to use them with the flash, especially with a kit lens at the longer lengths as you'll be at around f5.6.
Get a decent bag for it and keep plenty of the little silica gel sachets you find in packaging in there to help control the moisture.
While I'm mentioning moisture, try not to take a cold camera out of its bag when you get back to a nice warm house, let it acclimatise slowly in its bag or you'll see condensation inside the lens, doing this regularly is bad news for your camera and a recipe for mould in the lens
In reply to Post #5
Wow! Now you have mentioned letting the camera acclimatise that really does make sense so thanks for that, as said i am a complete dummy but i will get there, just need to get some fish to test it out on, looking forward to it as photography is something thats always interested me but never had a decent camera and yeah f5.6 is the lowest my setup goes with the kit lens, seeing some of prutsers, hyperloops shots really does whet the appetite, and thanks for the advice spencer, much appreciated
Wow! Now you have mentioned letting the camera acclimatise that really does make sense so thanks for that, as said i am a complete dummy but i will get there, just need to get some fish to test it out on, looking forward to it as photography is something thats always interested me but never had a decent camera and yeah f5.6 is the lowest my setup goes with the kit lens, seeing some of prutsers, hyperloops shots really does whet the appetite, and thanks for the advice spencer, much appreciated
In reply to Post #6
I agree with Duggs, aperture priority is the way to go until you're confident with manual. I still use aperture priority for most of my stuff now.
Also agree ref the rhino beam, you'll need a flash as well. The rhino is spot on for providing the light the camera needs to focus effectively but it's not powerful enough to light the scene for shots on its own.
I agree with Duggs, aperture priority is the way to go until you're confident with manual. I still use aperture priority for most of my stuff now.
Also agree ref the rhino beam, you'll need a flash as well. The rhino is spot on for providing the light the camera needs to focus effectively but it's not powerful enough to light the scene for shots on its own.