In reply to Post #1
Look up ISO invariance and use a grey card for starters. Off-camera flash and a softbox will be a massive improvement if you're prepared to carry it. I use one by magmod and it really cuts out specular highlights.
Look up ISO invariance and use a grey card for starters. Off-camera flash and a softbox will be a massive improvement if you're prepared to carry it. I use one by magmod and it really cuts out specular highlights.
In reply to Post #11
No you delete them
No you delete them
In reply to Post #1
I use my RM bivvy light as a reinforcement for the camera flash, helps you see what you're doing and also helps the camera to focus, have since bought a Rhino but have yet to use it.
I use my RM bivvy light as a reinforcement for the camera flash, helps you see what you're doing and also helps the camera to focus, have since bought a Rhino but have yet to use it.
In reply to Post #26
I got a multiple led fill in lamp. Bank stick adapter tapped into tripod leg - jobs a good one , does me ok. E of the bay wasn't expensive
I got a multiple led fill in lamp. Bank stick adapter tapped into tripod leg - jobs a good one , does me ok. E of the bay wasn't expensive
In reply to Post #1
Use built in flash and rhino beam or cheaper equiv, at an angle on separate tripod. Use tripod and intervelometer to avoid moment and your sorted.
At night i use max s/s with flash which think is 1/200, iso 400 and 4.5f
Use built in flash and rhino beam or cheaper equiv, at an angle on separate tripod. Use tripod and intervelometer to avoid moment and your sorted.
At night i use max s/s with flash which think is 1/200, iso 400 and 4.5f
In reply to Post #28
Does the rhino have any impact on the shots with those settings or is it just a handy floodlight?
I've got 2 generic 96led and if I used them both set 6 feet away with those settings I'd have to bump the iso to the 3200 region or more.
Does the rhino have any impact on the shots with those settings or is it just a handy floodlight?
I've got 2 generic 96led and if I used them both set 6 feet away with those settings I'd have to bump the iso to the 3200 region or more.
In reply to Post #24
Off camera flash is the way forward 2 in 1 brollys are cheap, light and compact for transport and very versatile. Bigger softboxes can be a pain to transport and usually involve noisey velcro. Smaller decent quality ones don't make much difference imo, although I do take a lastolite easy box for convenience. Easier to cover that up with a clear bag in the rain. I tend to use 2 flashes to soften shadows, one lighting me and the fish, the other at lower output either bouncing off the floor or off the bivvy. I find the dirty light from this more natural in the shadows.
Invariance is useful to know for raw shooters, you might get a jpeg shooter cursing you for that one when they try to push a jpeg 3 stops
Off camera flash is the way forward
2 in 1 brollys are cheap, light and compact for transport and very versatile. Bigger softboxes can be a pain to transport and usually involve noisey velcro. Smaller decent quality ones don't make much difference imo, although I do take a lastolite easy box for convenience. Easier to cover that up with a clear bag in the rain. I tend to use 2 flashes to soften shadows, one lighting me and the fish, the other at lower output either bouncing off the floor or off the bivvy. I find the dirty light from this more natural in the shadows. Invariance is useful to know for raw shooters, you might get a jpeg shooter cursing you for that one when they try to push a jpeg 3 stops
In reply to Post #29
Not at all. So much better and it helps illuminate the swim so you can see what your doing without needed a head torch eg
Not at all. So much better and it helps illuminate the swim so you can see what your doing without needed a head torch eg
In reply to Post #31
I thought not, I only see the one small light source in that pic.
I use one mounted with the off camera flash so I can see how the shot will look. It doesn't fit in the softbox with the flash so I put a headtorch in there instead.
Another plus with off camera flash, you can set it further away which minimises the difference in brightness between subject and background.
I also don't have a single setting I use for night shots. If the whole scene is being lit (ie dense solid background) I would use base iso at max shutter speed, but if is an open or patchy background I'd be at 800 or 1600, shutter around 1/80 and as wide open as I dare for aperture, just to avoid the inky blackness.
The other reason for using the warming gel mentioned in an earlier post, those areas with only natural light take on a nice blue cast when you've set the white balance for the lit areas. This looks good on boring overcast days too as you can turn day into a 'blue hour' look
I thought not, I only see the one small light source in that pic.
I use one mounted with the off camera flash so I can see how the shot will look. It doesn't fit in the softbox with the flash so I put a headtorch in there instead.
Another plus with off camera flash, you can set it further away which minimises the difference in brightness between subject and background.
I also don't have a single setting I use for night shots. If the whole scene is being lit (ie dense solid background) I would use base iso at max shutter speed, but if is an open or patchy background I'd be at 800 or 1600, shutter around 1/80 and as wide open as I dare for aperture, just to avoid the inky blackness.
The other reason for using the warming gel mentioned in an earlier post, those areas with only natural light take on a nice blue cast when you've set the white balance for the lit areas. This looks good on boring overcast days too as you can turn day into a 'blue hour' look
In reply to Post #22
I use the stands at home from non-carpy camera work. I use single banksticks for carp shots (not necessarily at night).
I use the stands at home from non-carpy camera work. I use single banksticks for carp shots (not necessarily at night).
In reply to Post #32
Off-camera flash and diffusers work best when close to the subject and give off a softer light the closer they are. Aperture will control your look as well as flash power. Working with ambient light or lack of, it would be beneficial to increase ISO to a level that won't increase noise hence my comment on ISO invariance as different camera manufacturers have slightly different levels. I always use ISO 640 on my sony as it has no detrimental effect on noise levels at all. It also takes much less power from the flash and gives a more subtle look. Also, warming gels are orange cooling gels are blue if you're shooting in auto WB it will have no effect whatsoever as the camera will correct the WB. You need to be adjusting the kelvin levels manually to create the desired look i.e golden hour etc. Also to really simplify this, just get a flash unit that can shoot TTL, and edit in a programme that has total control of a RAW file like Adobe Lightroom or photoshop, job done problem solved.
Off-camera flash and diffusers work best when close to the subject and give off a softer light the closer they are. Aperture will control your look as well as flash power. Working with ambient light or lack of, it would be beneficial to increase ISO to a level that won't increase noise hence my comment on ISO invariance as different camera manufacturers have slightly different levels. I always use ISO 640 on my sony as it has no detrimental effect on noise levels at all. It also takes much less power from the flash and gives a more subtle look. Also, warming gels are orange cooling gels are blue if you're shooting in auto WB it will have no effect whatsoever as the camera will correct the WB. You need to be adjusting the kelvin levels manually to create the desired look i.e golden hour etc. Also to really simplify this, just get a flash unit that can shoot TTL, and edit in a programme that has total control of a RAW file like Adobe Lightroom or photoshop, job done problem solved.
In reply to Post #34
This is where I stop using diffusers so much, where I place my main light further away usually, I'd need huge diffusers, and a 3ft brolly is pretty compact for travel but a menace to use in wind. This is where 2 flashes come in because I can have hard shadows from the small light source, but fill the shadows with the second flash so they're not ugly.
The warming gel is orange, if I'm only lighting myself and fish with it, the naturally lit areas will be a dark blue once you've white balanced for the warm area
This is where I stop using diffusers so much, where I place my main light further away usually, I'd need huge diffusers, and a 3ft brolly is pretty compact for travel but a menace to use in wind. This is where 2 flashes come in because I can have hard shadows from the small light source, but fill the shadows with the second flash so they're not ugly.
The warming gel is orange, if I'm only lighting myself and fish with it, the naturally lit areas will be a dark blue once you've white balanced for the warm area
In reply to Post #35
Check out the MagMod MagSphere, I use them for run and gun wedding photography, they are really good at diffusing light in a small package. Can be used with gels and grids and attach to any flash by a magnetic rubber grip. Quick, simple and does what they say on the tin. I've tried several over decades of shooting weddings and find these the best out there by a mile.
Check out the MagMod MagSphere, I use them for run and gun wedding photography, they are really good at diffusing light in a small package. Can be used with gels and grids and attach to any flash by a magnetic rubber grip. Quick, simple and does what they say on the tin. I've tried several over decades of shooting weddings and find these the best out there by a mile.
In reply to Post #36
I think I have one of those, I've always seen it as an indoor modifier tbh and prefer a flash bender for when I want some directional and some bounce from the one flash.
The magmod stuff is good tho, just a bit pricey when you want to build a kit. I don't have wedding pressure tho, if my kit breaks its annoying, not a major headache
I think I have one of those, I've always seen it as an indoor modifier tbh and prefer a flash bender for when I want some directional and some bounce from the one flash.
The magmod stuff is good tho, just a bit pricey when you want to build a kit. I don't have wedding pressure tho, if my kit breaks its annoying, not a major headache
In reply to Post #21
i also use one of these lights, but slide it onto the top of the camera, has an adjustable brightness on it, and orange lens if needed.
i also use one of these lights, but slide it onto the top of the camera, has an adjustable brightness on it, and orange lens if needed.