In reply to Post #14
Can't you get down before the weed starts growing,pile in a load of particle and create your own spots.Even if the carp don't do it the birdlife will and hopefully the carp will follow
Can't you get down before the weed starts growing,pile in a load of particle and create your own spots.Even if the carp don't do it the birdlife will and hopefully the carp will follow
In reply to Post #14
Sometimes a bit obvious but was told this a few years ago!
Start casting the weed rake from short distance first, making your way out to the eventual area intended. That way less chance of snagging too much weed in one hit making it one hell of a task to get back
Sometimes a bit obvious but was told this a few years ago!
Start casting the weed rake from short distance first, making your way out to the eventual area intended. That way less chance of snagging too much weed in one hit making it one hell of a task to get back
In reply to Post #16
Very busy lake mate, I guarantee if I do anything like that in advance I'll be clearing it for someone else.
Very busy lake mate, I guarantee if I do anything like that in advance I'll be clearing it for someone else.
In reply to Post #17
Good call.
Good call.
In reply to Post #18
I've never found a way to keep these spots quiet, the fish will give it away quickly, normally fizzing up for a week or so.
I've done it on day tickets and you don't get back in the swim until the spots gone sour, I think of it as a single big hit tactic, unfortunately the big hit can often happen two days after you've left
Usually pretty instant tho
I've never found a way to keep these spots quiet, the fish will give it away quickly, normally fizzing up for a week or so.
I've done it on day tickets and you don't get back in the swim until the spots gone sour, I think of it as a single big hit tactic, unfortunately the big hit can often happen two days after you've left
Usually pretty instant tho
In reply to Post #20
. . again agree with that . . I've done it on a previous syndicate water and also filled it with particle for good measure only to return days later and find the swim occupied . . on weedy lakes any 'created' clear spots (unless you can boat out at distance) are generally within castable range (to give you half a chance of getting the fish back in) and are like illuminated beacons so will usually be obvious to all but the noddy . . .not only that but the pile of retrieved weed in a swim also makes it blindly obvious . . .
In addition (and not to depress you too much) I have experienced weed 'moving' and hours spent clearing a channel to a suitable hard spot can seemingly grow back / move over the channel / spring back into place days after all the hard work is done . . .
Would def persevere with the Chirp (I used to use a Smartcast back in the day) as these are great for initially finding 'existing' holes in a swim much better than a marker float. Once you've located these spots then your call as to whether thinning down a channel from the spot to the rod tip will help with presentation or not . . .the bigger challenge will be retrieving and landing the fish safely if you hook one IMHO!
I do think raking has its place and can def liven up or create a spot - however for the effort spent I remember having as much success with finding the existing spots as outlined above and fishing tips up high (beachcaster style) in an attempt to keep as much line from settling in the weed as possible . . .ALSO - personally would not use a naked (or any other) chod rig either - not only is the indication ***** but if you're fishing on a clear area anyway it has no benefit . . .personally found big solid pva bags with either drop off inline or clip (making sure the lead drops) and pulling back slightly into the weed after the donk so the rig is on the edge of the clear spot gave more consistent takes . . .
. . again agree with that . . I've done it on a previous syndicate water and also filled it with particle for good measure only to return days later and find the swim occupied . . on weedy lakes any 'created' clear spots (unless you can boat out at distance) are generally within castable range (to give you half a chance of getting the fish back in) and are like illuminated beacons so will usually be obvious to all but the noddy . . .not only that but the pile of retrieved weed in a swim also makes it blindly obvious . . .
In addition (and not to depress you too much) I have experienced weed 'moving' and hours spent clearing a channel to a suitable hard spot can seemingly grow back / move over the channel / spring back into place days after all the hard work is done . . .
Would def persevere with the Chirp (I used to use a Smartcast back in the day) as these are great for initially finding 'existing' holes in a swim much better than a marker float. Once you've located these spots then your call as to whether thinning down a channel from the spot to the rod tip will help with presentation or not . . .the bigger challenge will be retrieving and landing the fish safely if you hook one IMHO!
I do think raking has its place and can def liven up or create a spot - however for the effort spent I remember having as much success with finding the existing spots as outlined above and fishing tips up high (beachcaster style) in an attempt to keep as much line from settling in the weed as possible . . .ALSO - personally would not use a naked (or any other) chod rig either - not only is the indication ***** but if you're fishing on a clear area anyway it has no benefit . . .personally found big solid pva bags with either drop off inline or clip (making sure the lead drops) and pulling back slightly into the weed after the donk so the rig is on the edge of the clear spot gave more consistent takes . . .
In reply to Post #21
Yes the weed does shift about, it's why I gave up trying to clear channels for line to sit in, I also noticed both from cameras and from up trees that the fish found these channels first and followed them to the spot, which is great, but once you've had a run or decide to recast the line will rarely sit nicely in this channel, so now the fish are following the channel and hitting your lines, bye
So that's why I'll clear the channel beyond the spot, they approach from the other side and come across the bait before they hit the line. When the weed shifts an the top closes up they look like natural patrol routes. Use a bait that draws naturals as well and it can really kick off.
Have a spod to hand, one with holes in you can jam sticks in, a lot of weed you uproot but don't pull in will gas up and float after a while, the spod is like a big grappling hook and makes light work of this (also handy for drifting weedbergs in general)
I'll probably regret posting this when I can actually go fishing again
Yes the weed does shift about, it's why I gave up trying to clear channels for line to sit in, I also noticed both from cameras and from up trees that the fish found these channels first and followed them to the spot, which is great, but once you've had a run or decide to recast the line will rarely sit nicely in this channel, so now the fish are following the channel and hitting your lines, bye
So that's why I'll clear the channel beyond the spot, they approach from the other side and come across the bait before they hit the line. When the weed shifts an the top closes up they look like natural patrol routes. Use a bait that draws naturals as well and it can really kick off.
Have a spod to hand, one with holes in you can jam sticks in, a lot of weed you uproot but don't pull in will gas up and float after a while, the spod is like a big grappling hook and makes light work of this (also handy for drifting weedbergs in general)
I'll probably regret posting this when I can actually go fishing again