In reply to Post #6
No problem mate
I use 50lb Berkeley whiplash straight through but like I said underneath I try not let the braid go out it cracks off easier then
No problem mate
I use 50lb Berkeley whiplash straight through but like I said underneath I try not let the braid go out it cracks off easier then
In reply to Post #12
Much cheaper to buy a spare spool and put a casting mono with an armacord leader on TC. If the wind gets up use the mono spool. I'd go for a spod everytime in a strong head/cross wind with mono rather than spomb and heavy braid. Try to blast it at a lower trajectory under the wind if possible with braid.
Much cheaper to buy a spare spool and put a casting mono with an armacord leader on TC. If the wind gets up use the mono spool. I'd go for a spod everytime in a strong head/cross wind with mono rather than spomb and heavy braid. Try to blast it at a lower trajectory under the wind if possible with braid.
In reply to Post #7
I don't get twist with mono, that may be because I use a Snap swivel to attach the spod, or Spomb rather than just a quick link
I don't get twist with mono, that may be because I use a Snap swivel to attach the spod, or Spomb rather than just a quick link
In reply to Post #12
That's pretty extreme mate, something is going badly wrong.
I remember a high speed video fuji showed when advertising the k series guides, the coils coming off the spool actually travel beyond the first guide before being pulled through, it's easy to see how a small amount of slack can cause a big problem.
It is all about slack, whether that's loose coils on the spool from skipping a spomb across the surface, gripping the line to the rod rather than the spool lip, or not stopping the rod at the right time so the tip bounce pulls the braid off faster than it can pull through(same deal if the rod is overloaded and the tip over-recovers)
As I mentioned before, I always cracked off immediately after the leader, I felt the knot was partly to blame, either catching the layer below on the spool or during the overlap at the butt ring as mentioned previously. I found 20lb whiplash horrendous for it, 30lb was a bit better, but using 58lb j braid for the past year straight through has been great, probably costs a bit of distance but that hasn't bothered me, its just so easy to manage
That's pretty extreme mate, something is going badly wrong.
I remember a high speed video fuji showed when advertising the k series guides, the coils coming off the spool actually travel beyond the first guide before being pulled through, it's easy to see how a small amount of slack can cause a big problem.
It is all about slack, whether that's loose coils on the spool from skipping a spomb across the surface, gripping the line to the rod rather than the spool lip, or not stopping the rod at the right time so the tip bounce pulls the braid off faster than it can pull through(same deal if the rod is overloaded and the tip over-recovers)
As I mentioned before, I always cracked off immediately after the leader, I felt the knot was partly to blame, either catching the layer below on the spool or during the overlap at the butt ring as mentioned previously. I found 20lb whiplash horrendous for it, 30lb was a bit better, but using 58lb j braid for the past year straight through has been great, probably costs a bit of distance but that hasn't bothered me, its just so easy to manage
In reply to Post #19
As soon as you step up to higher performance the margin for error is smaller. Fast rods and fine lines need good technique, people would probably cast further and more comfortably with something that compresses more progressively with various loads and line that creates enough drag by its diameter off the spool to negate poor timing
It's all well and good TE can cast furthest with fine lines and big ‘resistance free' guides, the difference is he can create the lead/spod/spomb speed to continually pull the line from the spool rather than it dumping its guts into the first guide at about 40 yards.
As soon as you step up to higher performance the margin for error is smaller. Fast rods and fine lines need good technique, people would probably cast further and more comfortably with something that compresses more progressively with various loads and line that creates enough drag by its diameter off the spool to negate poor timingIt's all well and good TE can cast furthest with fine lines and big ‘resistance free' guides, the difference is he can create the lead/spod/spomb speed to continually pull the line from the spool rather than it dumping its guts into the first guide at about 40 yards.
In reply to Post #19
Interesting what you posted there. I was getting some horrendous crack offs with a marker but not the spod. The difference was that I was using a thicker and heavier leader (not stronger) on the marker to aid the anti tangle properties. What I found was happening was that the much lighter braid was trying to overtake the heavier braid and causing disasters. Changing to a lighter but still very strong braided leader significantly changed the outcome.
Interesting what you posted there. I was getting some horrendous crack offs with a marker but not the spod. The difference was that I was using a thicker and heavier leader (not stronger) on the marker to aid the anti tangle properties. What I found was happening was that the much lighter braid was trying to overtake the heavier braid and causing disasters. Changing to a lighter but still very strong braided leader significantly changed the outcome.
In reply to Post #21
I definitely feel there is a balance that has to be struck between the braid and leader. I may be wrong but I think the thicker material will come off in larger coils due to the stiffness, then the smaller coils of more supple braid cause a bit of congestion at the butt eye and the knot gets trapped.
I tried tapered mono leaders for a while with both 20lb and 30lb whiplash, that didn't work very well either
I was also getting more frap ups with the 13ft xt spods with 50mm butt's than with my greys spod with 40mm butt, I think, and as noj said previously, the higher performance rods are much more critical of your technique. on The water I bought the fox rods for, I was usually fishing at ranges at or over the limits of my ability tbh which wouldn't help matters. It'd probably take me three weeks of practicing every day to hit those distances now
I definitely feel there is a balance that has to be struck between the braid and leader. I may be wrong but I think the thicker material will come off in larger coils due to the stiffness, then the smaller coils of more supple braid cause a bit of congestion at the butt eye and the knot gets trapped.
I tried tapered mono leaders for a while with both 20lb and 30lb whiplash, that didn't work very well either
I was also getting more frap ups with the 13ft xt spods with 50mm butt's than with my greys spod with 40mm butt, I think, and as noj said previously, the higher performance rods are much more critical of your technique. on The water I bought the fox rods for, I was usually fishing at ranges at or over the limits of my ability tbh which wouldn't help matters. It'd probably take me three weeks of practicing every day to hit those distances now
In reply to Post #22
Some of it's caused by the rods tip “wobbling” on recovery causing the line to speed up and slow down. Smoother casting style helps, “off the ground” methods work well if going for real range as it's a gradual build up of load on the rod.....
Don't overfill spools, keep line tight (or at least consistent) on retrieve and don't snatch at the cast.
Some of it's caused by the rods tip “wobbling” on recovery causing the line to speed up and slow down. Smoother casting style helps, “off the ground” methods work well if going for real range as it's a gradual build up of load on the rod.....
Don't overfill spools, keep line tight (or at least consistent) on retrieve and don't snatch at the cast.
In reply to Post #1
I have heard that thin dia braids (for long distances) when used for short distances can cause crackoffs?
I have heard that thin dia braids (for long distances) when used for short distances can cause crackoffs?