Did you get in contact with them 8j the end if so what was the outcome?... As mine have started surface rusting on the stainless and black parts and they get dried off as well so not ideal.
In reply to Post #16
I fished next to a guy just before Christmas and his Summit cobalt buzz bars had started to rust on the black areas...
I fished next to a guy just before Christmas and his Summit cobalt buzz bars had started to rust on the black areas...
In reply to Post #16
have you got pictures of the rust mate as was explaining this to a mate who also is looking to buy some and want to show him
have you got pictures of the rust mate as was explaining this to a mate who also is looking to buy some and want to show him
In reply to Post #18
Yes I have mate, can send you then if you want. They sent me some replacements out though so fair play.
Yes I have mate, can send you then if you want. They sent me some replacements out though so fair play.
In reply to Post #19
Yh pm me them please mate so I can show him as he is in 2 minds wethwr to get them or not
Yh pm me them please mate so I can show him as he is in 2 minds wethwr to get them or not
In reply to Post #11
That's a myth Dave. Austenitic stainless steel can be magnetic. Any working or treatment can form ferrite in stainless. Any worked steel containing iron can be magnetic. It is not indicative of the quality of the material.
I have no idea what the black material is that they use to make this pod but I very much doubt it's cobalt. Cobalt is however used in electroplating/passivation/chromate systems so my guess it's just plated stainless.
Regards 316, duplex , etc.... any austenitic stainless should be up to the job. It's packed full of Cr/Ni so is self passivating. 316 etc is imo overkill for none marine/none sour applications.
A question for the lads with rust issues..... is the rust red? (that might sound like a silly question but corrosion of different metals are different colours e.g. copper alloys like brass go green and zinc goes white). Red rust is corrosion of iron so if it is red it could be traces of the tool steel used to work the stainless that's rusting on the surface. Or it could be a galvanic issue i.e. incompatible materials. Guess work at the end of the day as we don't know what the black stuff is.
That's a myth Dave. Austenitic stainless steel can be magnetic. Any working or treatment can form ferrite in stainless. Any worked steel containing iron can be magnetic. It is not indicative of the quality of the material.
I have no idea what the black material is that they use to make this pod but I very much doubt it's cobalt. Cobalt is however used in electroplating/passivation/chromate systems so my guess it's just plated stainless.
Regards 316, duplex , etc.... any austenitic stainless should be up to the job. It's packed full of Cr/Ni so is self passivating. 316 etc is imo overkill for none marine/none sour applications.
A question for the lads with rust issues..... is the rust red? (that might sound like a silly question but corrosion of different metals are different colours e.g. copper alloys like brass go green and zinc goes white). Red rust is corrosion of iron so if it is red it could be traces of the tool steel used to work the stainless that's rusting on the surface. Or it could be a galvanic issue i.e. incompatible materials. Guess work at the end of the day as we don't know what the black stuff is.
In reply to Post #21
Yes rust is red.
Yes rust is red.
In reply to Post #22
Did they give you an explanation buddy?
I see 3 guys on here with issues so replacing like-for-like is decent but probs isn't the answer. It doesn't address the actual issue.
Did they give you an explanation buddy?
I see 3 guys on here with issues so replacing like-for-like is decent but probs isn't the answer. It doesn't address the actual issue.
In reply to Post #23
No they didnt tbf, must be known 5o them though to just send out some, if it was surprising to them you'd think they'd ask more questions and maybe want my rusty ones back to inspect them but no.
No they didnt tbf, must be known 5o them though to just send out some, if it was surprising to them you'd think they'd ask more questions and maybe want my rusty ones back to inspect them but no.
In reply to Post #21
I've learnt a bit more about it since writing that post
The Japanese vg10 knives with magnetic knife block I bought threw me
In the building game when stainless Steel is spec'd its usually labelled as a2, pain in the bum when your used to fixings that stick to the drivers. I also learned long ago to keep drivers exclusively for stainless or you often get rust on screw heads etc. for sinks I look for grades like 18/10 316 etc as I kept having expensive sinks pitting/rusting
Even knowing a bit more about it I still wouldn't buy magnetic stainless banksticks, that's been a common denominator of 'stainless components I've had rust/pit
I bet you have the same look on your face reading posts like that as I do when someone insists you need to use hardwood for a given situation
I've learnt a bit more about it since writing that post
The Japanese vg10 knives with magnetic knife block I bought threw me
In the building game when stainless Steel is spec'd its usually labelled as a2, pain in the bum when your used to fixings that stick to the drivers. I also learned long ago to keep drivers exclusively for stainless or you often get rust on screw heads etc. for sinks I look for grades like 18/10 316 etc as I kept having expensive sinks pitting/rusting
Even knowing a bit more about it I still wouldn't buy magnetic stainless banksticks, that's been a common denominator of 'stainless components I've had rust/pit
I bet you have the same look on your face reading posts like that as I do when someone insists you need to use hardwood for a given situation
In reply to Post #24
Agree karmh.
@dave, made me chuckle mate.
Another one for you, the A grade designations (a1, a2 etc) come from a standard that applies specifically to nuts and bolts. Loads of people use them to label stainless steels for other application but they're actually just another designation for your standard austenitics (301, 302, 316 etc ).
A2 is equivalent to 304 which is what a lot of bank stuff is made from. It's a decent grade. All austenitics are sound in terms of corrosion resistance
Agree karmh.
@dave, made me chuckle mate.
Another one for you, the A grade designations (a1, a2 etc) come from a standard that applies specifically to nuts and bolts. Loads of people use them to label stainless steels for other application but they're actually just another designation for your standard austenitics (301, 302, 316 etc ).
A2 is equivalent to 304 which is what a lot of bank stuff is made from. It's a decent grade. All austenitics are sound in terms of corrosion resistance