In reply to Post #3
That is up to you to decide as you know the water, lay out, snags etc... Thinner the line easier is to achieve distance... Without snags and with smart use of brake on the reel size of the fish doesnt matter much...
That is up to you to decide as you know the water, lay out, snags etc... Thinner the line easier is to achieve distance... Without snags and with smart use of brake on the reel size of the fish doesnt matter much...
good advice in post 14.
You're set up is good. Just make sure you have a good length of leader and the knot (I use back to back grinner) is at the bottom of the spool before casting.
You're set up is good. Just make sure you have a good length of leader and the knot (I use back to back grinner) is at the bottom of the spool before casting.
In reply to Post #15
Sorry wasn't very clear. It's for spodding but as I live about 30secs from the beach so I went Over there to have a cast
Sorry wasn't very clear. It's for spodding but as I live about 30secs from the beach so I went Over there to have a cast
In reply to Post #14
thanks for the advise, i will definitely change to a back to back grinner as my albright is messy to say the least.
thanks for the advise, i will definitely change to a back to back grinner as my albright is messy to say the least.
In reply to Post #16
most of the waters i fish have minimal snags and little to no weed.
I changed to the penn conflict for the smooth drag compared to my previous penn affinity.
Also the longbow is reasonably soft in the tip so im comfortable playing fish with it.
Largest I've had with this set up is a 12kg common but that was on the 15lb invisitec line.
most of the waters i fish have minimal snags and little to no weed.
I changed to the penn conflict for the smooth drag compared to my previous penn affinity.
Also the longbow is reasonably soft in the tip so im comfortable playing fish with it.
Largest I've had with this set up is a 12kg common but that was on the 15lb invisitec line.
In reply to Post #20
Daiwa Longbow X45 3.75TC
Penn Conflict II LC 7000
Daiwa Longbow X45 3.75TC
Penn Conflict II LC 7000
In reply to Post #19
When tying mono mainline to a braid leader I have found the Mahin Knot to be a much neater option once you get it right
When tying mono mainline to a braid leader I have found the Mahin Knot to be a much neater option once you get it right
In reply to Post #22
Likewise.
Likewise.
In reply to Post #23
Can't argue the Mahin knot is a neat knot and the tag ends exit in optimum position for casting. I think the difference in casting performance is marginal when joining 12lb mono to braid. However if you are at the beginning of the learning curve I feel it is better to use a knot that you are almost certain to be familiar with and is safe and reliable. The guy has made a sensible decision and can move on from there. One of the problems of modern carping, too many choices, too much info, too much gear, leads to mistakes and confusion while people are learning.
When I was joining 40lb mono to 12lb mono on the beach I always used a leader(Mahin) knot because of the tag ends and it kept the knot as small as possible. Now we have tapered leaders.
Can't argue the Mahin knot is a neat knot and the tag ends exit in optimum position for casting. I think the difference in casting performance is marginal when joining 12lb mono to braid. However if you are at the beginning of the learning curve I feel it is better to use a knot that you are almost certain to be familiar with and is safe and reliable. The guy has made a sensible decision and can move on from there. One of the problems of modern carping, too many choices, too much info, too much gear, leads to mistakes and confusion while people are learning.
When I was joining 40lb mono to 12lb mono on the beach I always used a leader(Mahin) knot because of the tag ends and it kept the knot as small as possible. Now we have tapered leaders.
In reply to Post #24
" One of the problems of modern carping, too many choices, too much info, too much gear, leads to mistakes and confusion while people are learning."
Exactly this! i find myself more often than not over complicating decisions on the bank which inevitably lead to stress and wasted time.
" One of the problems of modern carping, too many choices, too much info, too much gear, leads to mistakes and confusion while people are learning."
Exactly this! i find myself more often than not over complicating decisions on the bank which inevitably lead to stress and wasted time.
In reply to Post #25
If you realise that you are on your way to simple effective fishing.
The rod, reel, line and leader you have plus a 3.5oz/4.5ozlead will get you to 100m and should with some thought and practice get you to 120m with some consistency and accuracy. They will cast considerably further but that will be down to technique.
To improve distance casting be brutally honest with yourself. The distance cast is a TIGHT line between the lead and rod tip. Using the line clip can be surprisingly optimistic.
Personally I would keep casting practice separate from fishing and then fish at a distance you are confident at. Take the risks, make the mistakes and experience the disasters in practice and then enjoy your fishing.
Tight lines.
If you realise that you are on your way to simple effective fishing.
The rod, reel, line and leader you have plus a 3.5oz/4.5ozlead will get you to 100m and should with some thought and practice get you to 120m with some consistency and accuracy. They will cast considerably further but that will be down to technique.
To improve distance casting be brutally honest with yourself. The distance cast is a TIGHT line between the lead and rod tip. Using the line clip can be surprisingly optimistic.
Personally I would keep casting practice separate from fishing and then fish at a distance you are confident at. Take the risks, make the mistakes and experience the disasters in practice and then enjoy your fishing.
Tight lines.
In reply to Post #11
The fg is good but only with braid to nylon and it's run in reverse to a braid shock leader set up for spinning/popping. So like 60lb braid to 80lb fluoro, the fact you can whip the knot to pass the guides nicely with butch line is the bonus.
Plenty of knots can get over the stated bs of 12lb labelled technium
Considering a factory longbow has probably melted at about 5lb of pressure with the leader knot in the tip ring i wouldn't be too concerned about the knot, the name suggests a shockleader knot endures a lot more than reality.
Just needs getting through the guides easily and not collecting masses of lake bed.
The fg is good but only with braid to nylon and it's run in reverse to a braid shock leader set up for spinning/popping. So like 60lb braid to 80lb fluoro, the fact you can whip the knot to pass the guides nicely with butch line is the bonus.
Plenty of knots can get over the stated bs of 12lb labelled technium
Considering a factory longbow has probably melted at about 5lb of pressure with the leader knot in the tip ring i wouldn't be too concerned about the knot, the name suggests a shockleader knot endures a lot more than reality.
Just needs getting through the guides easily and not collecting masses of lake bed.
In reply to Post #27
I'm very impressed but I've got no idea where you're going with this. Mind you I'm 64 and way behind.
I'm very impressed but I've got no idea where you're going with this. Mind you I'm 64 and way behind.
In reply to Post #28
I'm saying that whatever knot holds up and is easiest to tie, just use that
And that while the fg knot is good for it's purpose, it's unnecessary
Better suited to a heavy fluoro or mono leader with braid mainline
I'm saying that whatever knot holds up and is easiest to tie, just use that
And that while the fg knot is good for it's purpose, it's unnecessary
Better suited to a heavy fluoro or mono leader with braid mainline
In reply to Post #30
Only thing I need to know now is what the fg knot is and all will be clear.
Only thing I need to know now is what the fg knot is and all will be clear.