In reply to Post #15
And thats it as you say in the right situation.

For example the fox captive back leads I use on a lake with sailing and water skiing and as long as you not fishing over high weed.

Sometimes I use them when I fish with a boat as it makes getting in and out of the swim safer.

Good luck .

I suppose the Korda ones drop every time do they?

I'm far less scientific about backleads - maybe to my detriment. I'm only interested in getting the line sunk and, by having my rods low, I doubt that a take will move the bait far without registering at the indicators. I can only see problems if using a 2-3oz back lead. I sometimes just wrap plasticine around the bottom of a backlead clip to help sink the line in front of me in a tight swim, it helps avoid tangles when landing fish.

Maybe I am going about it all wrong but hey ho, I'm still catching.

In reply to Post #12
I stopped using them for this reason, limited indication at times and not worth putting the fish at risk, especially if you are fishing in or around snags.

So as I am going through my kit tonight getting ready for Friday I find two quick release ones. Now my ocd is telling me I need another one to make the set.

As said elsewhere, just remember to have back leads heavier than your indicators else the backlead will lift and you'll see no indication.

Gardner do great captive back leads that are heavy and release upon a strike .

In reply to Post #20
Interesting, you are the second person to make the comment about weight of back leads, but, and it might be that it is peculiar just to my situation, I use very light backleads with quite lightweight indicators very successfully. Yes the backlead rises off the bottom at the same time the indicator moves but as long as the indicators are not completely slack the buzzer always sounds at the same time.

I generally only use backleads for two reasons, to avoid the problem of playing fish in a restricted swim and even then only up to about 60yds range and secondly to make sure line is pinned down on close range rods.

I have used them at range when I agree a heavier backlead is required, in this situation I use the fox tethered ones.

In reply to Post #13
index finger on the spool as you pick it up it becomes automatic after a while you don't think about it
I always add in a tiny flick as well..


Isn't dropping back leads being treated the same as dropping a normal lead??

I always use the lightest back lead I can get away with, I use delkim slimlite indicators and use 7 gram Korea back leads I dont want to use big heavy ones in my opinion it reduces indication massively so I would only use really light ones

Thanks for the reply's guys. It has given me a much better understanding, going through my box of odd leads I have found quite a few in different weights and I have adjustable weight indicators so I should be able to work out what works for me and what don't
I have some of the gardener captive back leads that I like the idea of, what is your option of them ?

In reply to Post #24
I use back leads when ever I can, saves a lot of hassle playing fish in keeping the other lines pinned down out of the way, but that's just my opinion. The best ones I've found and used for years are the Solar ones with a 1/4oz ayrsley bomb on it, easy to clip on and take off and very rarely ever lose one

In reply to Post #20
Hi, sorry for bumping this, but I'm after some advice. I don't fish often so I've never really thought of the importance of some of the things mentioned in the discussion. Any advice would be really appreciated:

I have the fox mini swingers. I was sold on these as they apparently cater for all scenarios. They have a 16g sliding weight, but all I know is that I should have the weight tight up to the gate when fishing at distance (100yd+) and I should tighten the line to get the best indication. The other option (I know of) is to push the slider all the way towards the opposite end if fishing close in, like a margin, cause I'll be slack lining. If I'm out at my normal range of 50 to 80 yards, I just put it in the middle. Is that about right?

I don't like tightening up the line too much so the idea of a back lead sounds pretty good. But this brings up another issue. I use 3.5oz gemini arc leads (confidence issue more than anything) so I don't know what weight back leads I'd need to use. The total of my arc lead is obviously 3.5oz (on a heli style system) and the slider is 16g (so 4.06oz total). What weight back leads do I need?

I honestly think they will help with my fishing as I fish a pretty weed free water with depths of around 2ft in the margin, down to 8ft in the middle with no snags and plenty of gravel patches in varying sizes.

In reply to Post #26
Anyone?

In reply to Post #26
I think you're over thinking it mate. your back leads should generally be as light as possible but obviously heavier than your hangers.

i would say at least half an ounce and no more than one ounce.

In reply to Post #28
Probably.... But I'm just trying to get it clear in my head.

My indicators are 16g, but I'd only slide and use the full weight if fishing at distance... and if I was, I wouldn't normally need backleads.

If I was mid water, I'd use half the slider so I suppose half the weight of 8g. It just seems that 9g+ is a lot of weight to use for that approach, but I'd be willing if needed.

In reply to Post #29
Used the Fox captive back leads for years and never even thought about what weight they are. The line moves through the gate or if a take occurs the gate opens.
I did change the horrible lime green or orange braid to ESP lead core leader with the lead removed.