Nice one hitman and old geezer that looks spot on
I'll do a little write up later 👍
In reply to Post #12
Top man 👍🏻
Top man 👍🏻
In reply to Post #12
I'll look forward to reading that , looks good 👍
I'll look forward to reading that , looks good 👍
In reply to Post #12
Looking good and got to be less expensive than the Atropa !
Looking good and got to be less expensive than the Atropa !
In reply to Post #12
Any news on a write up mate as am interested in making some myself rather than the expensive alternative.
Any news on a write up mate as am interested in making some myself rather than the expensive alternative.
Sorry I've been busy I'll deffo do a little write up tomorrow as I've planned a day off diy 
In reply to Post #17
No worries mate.
No worries mate.
I'll try and explain how I made these marker poles and if anyone doesn't quite understand just ask some questions.
MK1
First of all I got the Caulk nozzles and cut the tab off at the top it almost has to be flush with the top part to make a snug fit.
For the loop at the bottom I used the very same loops as when your making leads but obviously without the swivel,I pulled this down using a piece of braided line as it's a very tight fit until the desired length you require.
I then filled the nozzle up with pink grip,not so much to secure the loop but to make it waterproof and add a little weight,Silicone would also do.
When the pink grip had set I glued in the nozzle into the conduit as far as the vertical lines on the nozzle then I drilled 4 x 2.5mm holes around the tube about 10mm up from the end and used 2.4mm (dome pop blind rivets Aluminium ) this was to secure the nozzle firmly.
For the extra lengths of the pole I used a plastic bung glued in either end of the length to make it waterproof then 1 x male and 1x female plastic connecter from screwfix again glued then as before I used the same rivets to properly secure them.
This procedure will carry on until your desired length of poles you require.
The top pole (marker pole) obviously only had one connector attached but was sealed both ends with the bungs but the top bung is not glued in as I'm working on finding a light of some sorts.
Then it was just a case of buying the relevant marker and glow in the dark tape to wrap around the top pole.
The only thing that bothered me was the ridges on the connectors that are too big and that the line could become snagged and potentially get cut off and for that reason I used heat shrink on these parts just to make sure it didn't happen.
One important thing tho if you do use the heat shrink is to only have enough to cover the ridge and the rivets.I found out the hard way YOU need to have the male and female parts tight together first hold upright or lay completely flat then gently shrink the heat shrink down,failure to do it this way will result in the connectors warping and they will not screw together properly.
Obviously you can make each section as long as you require but 4ft lengths are about right apart from the top section that I made 1ft long.
So all the parts needed
20mm conduit + male/female connectors I got from screwfix
End Bungs I got from vital parts - code (R0025)
Black nozzles I got from decorating direct
Rivet gun and rivets from eBay
Hi-viz tape from Amazon
I already had the heat shrink and pvc glue.
MK2 I'll write up tomorrow
MK1
First of all I got the Caulk nozzles and cut the tab off at the top it almost has to be flush with the top part to make a snug fit.
For the loop at the bottom I used the very same loops as when your making leads but obviously without the swivel,I pulled this down using a piece of braided line as it's a very tight fit until the desired length you require.
I then filled the nozzle up with pink grip,not so much to secure the loop but to make it waterproof and add a little weight,Silicone would also do.
When the pink grip had set I glued in the nozzle into the conduit as far as the vertical lines on the nozzle then I drilled 4 x 2.5mm holes around the tube about 10mm up from the end and used 2.4mm (dome pop blind rivets Aluminium ) this was to secure the nozzle firmly.
For the extra lengths of the pole I used a plastic bung glued in either end of the length to make it waterproof then 1 x male and 1x female plastic connecter from screwfix again glued then as before I used the same rivets to properly secure them.
This procedure will carry on until your desired length of poles you require.
The top pole (marker pole) obviously only had one connector attached but was sealed both ends with the bungs but the top bung is not glued in as I'm working on finding a light of some sorts.
Then it was just a case of buying the relevant marker and glow in the dark tape to wrap around the top pole.
The only thing that bothered me was the ridges on the connectors that are too big and that the line could become snagged and potentially get cut off and for that reason I used heat shrink on these parts just to make sure it didn't happen.
One important thing tho if you do use the heat shrink is to only have enough to cover the ridge and the rivets.I found out the hard way YOU need to have the male and female parts tight together first hold upright or lay completely flat then gently shrink the heat shrink down,failure to do it this way will result in the connectors warping and they will not screw together properly.
Obviously you can make each section as long as you require but 4ft lengths are about right apart from the top section that I made 1ft long.
So all the parts needed
20mm conduit + male/female connectors I got from screwfix
End Bungs I got from vital parts - code (R0025)
Black nozzles I got from decorating direct
Rivet gun and rivets from eBay
Hi-viz tape from Amazon
I already had the heat shrink and pvc glue.
MK2 I'll write up tomorrow
In reply to Post #19
Nice one hitman, clear enough for a dummy like me to understand. Out of curiosity do you think the conjuit coupling collars, the type that push on would work or does it need to be the screw type.
Nice one hitman, clear enough for a dummy like me to understand. Out of curiosity do you think the conjuit coupling collars, the type that push on would work or does it need to be the screw type.
The screw type are 100% better
BUT wait for my write up tomorrow as I've improved the design with less parts, I'm just waiting for a little information from someone 😉😉
BUT wait for my write up tomorrow as I've improved the design with less parts, I'm just waiting for a little information from someone 😉😉
In reply to Post #21
OK cool, top man, oh and how big is the weight you've got?
OK cool, top man, oh and how big is the weight you've got?
I made them at just over a kilo 👍
I'll talk through that as well tomorrow
I'll talk through that as well tomorrow
In reply to Post #23
👍🏻👍🏻
👍🏻👍🏻