I just bought a seconhand Hobart A120 as it was a bargain I couldn't pass up, plus in the future I'd like to start making bait again, it came with everything, bowl, dough hook, beater/mixer but without a plug fitted, I can make out 240v on the small id plate, the cable is only 6 or 7mm, anyone know what size plug it needs? I know very little about electrics, I can change a plug but thats about my limit.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
In reply to Post #1
What else does it say on the plate
This should help a little
Please be careful if changing the speeds make sure the mixer has stopped completely before changing the gears
https://hobartuk.assetbank-server.com/assetbank-hobartuk/action/browseItems?categoryId=178&categoryTypeId=2&cachedCriteria=1
What else does it say on the plate
This should help a little
Please be careful if changing the speeds make sure the mixer has stopped completely before changing the gears
https://hobartuk.assetbank-server.com/assetbank-hobartuk/action/browseItems?categoryId=178&categoryTypeId=2&cachedCriteria=1
In reply to Post #1
Should take a normal 13amp plug
the plate should give a fuse rating though
Should take a normal 13amp plug
the plate should give a fuse rating though
In reply to Post #1
As post 3, there should be a plate with a rating in watts (w). Take this rating and divide by 230 (UK voltage). If the result is 13 or under 13 then a 13A plug top is fine.
Eg 2000/230=8.69 so a 13A plug top with a 10Amp fuse fitted.
The rating of the fuse is to go to the nearest size but upwards. Plug top fuses are 1,2,3,5,10,13 Amp ratings so 8.69 in my example is to fit a 10Amp fuse in the plug.
As post 3, there should be a plate with a rating in watts (w). Take this rating and divide by 230 (UK voltage). If the result is 13 or under 13 then a 13A plug top is fine.
Eg 2000/230=8.69 so a 13A plug top with a 10Amp fuse fitted.
The rating of the fuse is to go to the nearest size but upwards. Plug top fuses are 1,2,3,5,10,13 Amp ratings so 8.69 in my example is to fit a 10Amp fuse in the plug.
In reply to Post #4
Thanks guys, really apreciate your help
After much cleaning and the use of a powerful magnifying glass Ive managed to read the id plate, theres no Watts or W on it, there is a space for Kw although its blank!
Volts 240
Hz 50
Ph 1
A 2.45
Apart from volts I have no idea what the rest means.
Thanks guys, really apreciate your help
After much cleaning and the use of a powerful magnifying glass Ive managed to read the id plate, theres no Watts or W on it, there is a space for Kw although its blank!
Volts 240
Hz 50
Ph 1
A 2.45
Apart from volts I have no idea what the rest means.
In reply to Post #5
It's rated at 2.45amps so a normal plug and I would stick a 5 amp fuse in it to allow for a start up surge
It's rated at 2.45amps so a normal plug and I would stick a 5 amp fuse in it to allow for a start up surge
In reply to Post #6
Nice one Smurf, I'll get some, thank you.
Nice one Smurf, I'll get some, thank you.
In reply to Post #6
In reply to Post #6
DP
DP
Hz is the frequency we use in the U.K.
P means single phase ie 230v rather than 415v 👍 3 phase
P means single phase ie 230v rather than 415v 👍 3 phase
In reply to Post #10
I now know why it was cheap, the handle that raises and lowers the bowl is stuck in the low position and the main on/off switch is missing, when I first plugged it in it started turning!!!!
After fitting the plug I then switched on at the wall and it started turning, so switched it off, then I moved speed lever from position 1 to 2 and then 3,{on off button missing!} each time switching on off at the wall, they all worked, again switched off at the wall and tried to move the arm that lifts bowl ito position but it only moves forward and backward a tiny bit, 2 inches either way, it did not raise the bowl at all, I then switched on at the wall and now it wont even start, I presume its stuck and in a safety position, absolutely gutted, but cant be much wrong , can it?
Apart from fitting a new on/off switch, I suppose I have to strip it down to look inside, any tips on this?
I now know why it was cheap, the handle that raises and lowers the bowl is stuck in the low position and the main on/off switch is missing, when I first plugged it in it started turning!!!!
After fitting the plug I then switched on at the wall and it started turning, so switched it off, then I moved speed lever from position 1 to 2 and then 3,{on off button missing!} each time switching on off at the wall, they all worked, again switched off at the wall and tried to move the arm that lifts bowl ito position but it only moves forward and backward a tiny bit, 2 inches either way, it did not raise the bowl at all, I then switched on at the wall and now it wont even start, I presume its stuck and in a safety position, absolutely gutted, but cant be much wrong , can it?
Apart from fitting a new on/off switch, I suppose I have to strip it down to look inside, any tips on this?
In reply to Post #11
Never looked inside one but could it have a cut-out switch on the bowl height level and as its stuck down is now set off?
Never looked inside one but could it have a cut-out switch on the bowl height level and as its stuck down is now set off?
In reply to Post #11
I had a crypto peerless and it also had the on/off switch missing so i fitted an inline one on the mains lead.
I had a crypto peerless and it also had the on/off switch missing so i fitted an inline one on the mains lead.
In reply to Post #11
There are micro switches in the cage and the handle that stops the motor turning on unless theses are closed and bowl raised fully
There are micro switches in the cage and the handle that stops the motor turning on unless theses are closed and bowl raised fully
In reply to Post #12
Yes, thats exactly whats going on, I used a Hobart many years ago when I made a little bait, Its a very similar machine and it wouldnt start if the bowl wasnt raised into position, I attempted to take the casing off which needs a alan key, I have a full set except the one that I needed, aint it always the way
, Ive ordered a metric & imperial set off the bay just incase 
Yes, thats exactly whats going on, I used a Hobart many years ago when I made a little bait, Its a very similar machine and it wouldnt start if the bowl wasnt raised into position, I attempted to take the casing off which needs a alan key, I have a full set except the one that I needed, aint it always the way
, Ive ordered a metric & imperial set off the bay just incase
In reply to Post #13
Good idea, thank you
Good idea, thank you
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