My daughter wants me to ask hang a couple of kitchen wall cabinets, the fixings are nothing special ordinary brackets like this that go on the wall and cabinets hang on them.
I'm not a complete numpty when it comes to things like this, I've hung wall cabinets before but never on plasterboard walls. The chances of the studs being in the right place are slim so any ideas would be appreciated.
I'm not a complete numpty when it comes to things like this, I've hung wall cabinets before but never on plasterboard walls. The chances of the studs being in the right place are slim so any ideas would be appreciated.
In reply to Post #1
Google grip its plasterboard fixings , I've used them to hang rads before 👍
Google grip its plasterboard fixings , I've used them to hang rads before 👍
In reply to Post #2
There's a link at the beginning and end of that blue text, Those bolts are m5 but the m4 will work with enough brackets
Find these more reliable than a normal plug
Failing that do a cut out behind the units big enough to slot in good quality ply between studs that will sandwich the p/board when brackets are screwed into it.
There's a link at the beginning and end of that blue text, Those bolts are m5 but the m4 will work with enough brackets
Find these more reliable than a normal plug
Failing that do a cut out behind the units big enough to slot in good quality ply between studs that will sandwich the p/board when brackets are screwed into it.
In reply to Post #3
I use them when I'm being lazy (one on the load bearing side with one of the metal pig tail jobbies on the other side of the bracket) I'll usually cut a section of board out to put a decent fixing in
Before you hang them, see if you can flex the top of the cabinet at the back, and if you can then pilot and screw it. I had to take out wall units on 4 kitchens to do this earlier in the year after the supplier decided to change the design and they dropped a few mm
I use them when I'm being lazy (one on the load bearing side with one of the metal pig tail jobbies on the other side of the bracket) I'll usually cut a section of board out to put a decent fixing in
Before you hang them, see if you can flex the top of the cabinet at the back, and if you can then pilot and screw it. I had to take out wall units on 4 kitchens to do this earlier in the year after the supplier decided to change the design and they dropped a few mm
I know a total vvhanker who can help.
In reply to Post #6
Apart from Tazi's idea that will end up in court there's some good info there.
Anyone used these.. They are like a spring toggle but you don't loose the end if you take the screw out
LINK
there's some good info there.Anyone used these.. They are like a spring toggle but you don't loose the end if you take the screw out
LINK
In reply to Post #8
Why, have you bought them already
No I've never seen those, and I won't be buying any tbh, they look like they will allow a bit of movement which is a bad thing long term unless you want to adjust it periodically until it fully settles. There are loads of decent tried and tested fixings available, not worth taking a punt on them
Why, have you bought them already
No I've never seen those, and I won't be buying any tbh, they look like they will allow a bit of movement which is a bad thing long term unless you want to adjust it periodically until it fully settles. There are loads of decent tried and tested fixings available, not worth taking a punt on them
In reply to Post #8
Would probably give those a wide berth like Duggs
The other option, which can be a gamble, is to buy full lengths of the hanging rail. You may have to notch the units and they aren't a universal fit; but you can get a proper fixing in each stud with a timber noggin or plate to hold the cut end. Which will be between studs, if it's not buy a scratchcard immediately. Easier to level, hang and adjust... which is why Ikea use it, essentially it's numpty proof unless you notch your units with a hedge trimmer or drill into a pipe
*when time is of the essence you can overhang the rail, annihilate the unit and rail with a grinder to trim to length and have at least 15mm of end panel or a decorator to address the carnage.
Would probably give those a wide berth like Duggs
The other option, which can be a gamble, is to buy full lengths of the hanging rail. You may have to notch the units and they aren't a universal fit; but you can get a proper fixing in each stud with a timber noggin or plate to hold the cut end. Which will be between studs, if it's not buy a scratchcard immediately. Easier to level, hang and adjust... which is why Ikea use it, essentially it's numpty proof unless you notch your units with a hedge trimmer or drill into a pipe
*when time is of the essence you can overhang the rail, annihilate the unit and rail with a grinder to trim to length and have at least 15mm of end panel or a decorator to address the carnage.
In reply to Post #10
Not bought anything yet but won't be buying them.
I'll have to reread all of your posts a few times to see what you're getting at but thanks for now.
Those cranked metal brackets in my first post, can you get those in longer lengths?
If not using what I've got and Noj's post #2 is looking most likely at the moment
Not bought anything yet but won't be buying them.
I'll have to reread all of your posts a few times to see what you're getting at but thanks for now.
Those cranked metal brackets in my first post, can you get those in longer lengths?
If not using what I've got and Noj's post #2 is looking most likely at the moment
In reply to Post #12
I get the ones from Sds as they're local, the ikea ones are too thick for most other units and the channel is a bit shallow if I remember correctly, I try not to do ikea kitchens these days
I get the ones from Sds as they're local, the ikea ones are too thick for most other units and the channel is a bit shallow if I remember correctly, I try not to do ikea kitchens these days
In reply to Post #13
These cabinets are preassembled and from Magnet. That's what was in place when she moved in so she's just adding.
The brackets that came with it are at her house but I took a picture before I left
I know you can't say for certain without looking at them in the flesh but what's the chances of the SDS ones fitting
Would it help if I get my daughter to take some pictures of the back of the cabinets when she gets home tonight?
These cabinets are preassembled and from Magnet. That's what was in place when she moved in so she's just adding.
The brackets that came with it are at her house but I took a picture before I left
I know you can't say for certain without looking at them in the flesh but what's the chances of the SDS ones fitting
Would it help if I get my daughter to take some pictures of the back of the cabinets when she gets home tonight?
In reply to Post #14
They will fit
Add a screw at the back of the cupboard, a dowell even better, it's the magnet cupboards that have been sinking on me!
They will fit
Add a screw at the back of the cupboard, a dowell even better, it's the magnet cupboards that have been sinking on me!
In reply to Post #15
Good news about the SDS bracket then but I don't get the screw/dowel bit, where does it go?
Good news about the SDS bracket then
but I don't get the screw/dowel bit, where does it go?
In reply to Post #16
The fixing goes about 9mm down and 35mm in from the back of the carcass, just to stop the unit sinking. A dowell is best but a thick screw is fine as long as you pilot it. If your tiling or doing glass splashbacks up to the cupboard it shouldn't be necessary.
Not a magnet carcass but x marks the spot
Bit **** really when a loaded cupboard can be 100kgs plus, and a lot of my jobs will have panels closing the gap between the cupboard and ceiling, painstakingly scribed to half a mm tolerance then 3 months later you've got a 6mm gap above the filler
The fixing goes about 9mm down and 35mm in from the back of the carcass, just to stop the unit sinking. A dowell is best but a thick screw is fine as long as you pilot it. If your tiling or doing glass splashbacks up to the cupboard it shouldn't be necessary.
Not a magnet carcass but x marks the spot
Bit **** really when a loaded cupboard can be 100kgs plus, and a lot of my jobs will have panels closing the gap between the cupboard and ceiling, painstakingly scribed to half a mm tolerance then 3 months later you've got a 6mm gap above the filler
In reply to Post #17
No tiles/splashback underneath and no filler between top of the cupboard and ceiling.
She has bought two 900 high x 600 wide cabinets. The Left one is against a wall then the right one next to it.
If she fills those cupboard with stuff like we do at home then they will be very heavy
No tiles/splashback underneath and no filler between top of the cupboard and ceiling.
She has bought two 900 high x 600 wide cabinets. The Left one is against a wall then the right one next to it.
If she fills those cupboard with stuff like we do at home then they will be very heavy
In reply to Post #17
Here's the plan so far.
I'll order the wall rail from SDS they are 12 miles away but with all the traffic I've been talking about recently It'll be easier to get it sent.
What about the fixings in Post #2 will they be suitable with that rail, the holes in the rails are 6mm so I'll go for the 5mm ones, I'll get the tool to go with it as well.
Here's the plan so far.
I'll order the wall rail from SDS they are 12 miles away but with all the traffic I've been talking about recently It'll be easier to get it sent.
What about the fixings in Post #2 will they be suitable with that rail, the holes in the rails are 6mm so I'll go for the 5mm ones, I'll get the tool to go with it as well.
In reply to Post #19
For the outlay you may as well get the grip it things. With a rail you'll pick up the stud at the wall/corner, one or two intermediates depending on stud spacing and possibly even the 3rd or 4th with a 1200 overall size.
So you may only need one p/board fixing. Especially if you can also fix the unit itself to the side wall, or fit an end panel to the wall and slide the unit along the rail onto the panel.. screw it all together where the hinges and shelves will cover them all and walk away with your chest out like Eric Cantona to make sure it's witnessed
For the outlay you may as well get the grip it things. With a rail you'll pick up the stud at the wall/corner, one or two intermediates depending on stud spacing and possibly even the 3rd or 4th with a 1200 overall size.
So you may only need one p/board fixing. Especially if you can also fix the unit itself to the side wall, or fit an end panel to the wall and slide the unit along the rail onto the panel.. screw it all together where the hinges and shelves will cover them all and walk away with your chest out like Eric Cantona to make sure it's witnessed
In reply to Post #20
Yes there are two end panels so I can do as you say.
Just ordered the rail
I might buy the setting tool anyway, it might come in handy for other jobs as all her walls are plasterboard. There's a Screwfix less than 5 minutes away from her so I'll decide on the day.
Thanks Duggs, I like that photo
Thanks for the help gents very much appreciated
Yes there are two end panels so I can do as you say.
Just ordered the rail
I might buy the setting tool anyway, it might come in handy for other jobs as all her walls are plasterboard. There's a Screwfix less than 5 minutes away from her so I'll decide on the day.
Thanks Duggs, I like that photo
Thanks for the help gents very much appreciated
In reply to Post #21
I don't know how practical you are but if your going against a wall, 18mm isn't enough space to stop a handle less door hitting, if you have a handle on the door it'll be bashing the same spot repeatedly doing damage. Where possible I'd space it off around 50mm and do a face filler at the side, this gives the added benefit of taking wobbly walls and out of square corners out of the equation.
If you haven't got scope to space it off or don't feel confident scribing a filler you can get hinge restrictors to stop the door opening as far
I don't know how practical you are but if your going against a wall, 18mm isn't enough space to stop a handle less door hitting, if you have a handle on the door it'll be bashing the same spot repeatedly doing damage. Where possible I'd space it off around 50mm and do a face filler at the side, this gives the added benefit of taking wobbly walls and out of square corners out of the equation.
If you haven't got scope to space it off or don't feel confident scribing a filler you can get hinge restrictors to stop the door opening as far
In reply to Post #22
On the wall opposite there are two existing cabinets and one of those is against the wall and she's happy with how that works. I'll take a look and mimic that and she'll be more than happy.
Then I'm round my sons to do some electrics, in between I'm finishing off my shutters, there's not much that phases me
Edit
And before anyone says but yeah but I bet all your jobs are **** they certainly are not
On the wall opposite there are two existing cabinets and one of those is against the wall and she's happy with how that works. I'll take a look and mimic that and she'll be more than happy.
Then I'm round my sons to do some electrics, in between I'm finishing off my shutters, there's not much that phases me
Edit
And before anyone says but yeah but I bet all your jobs are **** they certainly are not
In reply to Post #22
That's a good point Duggs and one reason I avoid handles if possible. My lad has got about a 1/4 inch dent into the fridge door at home with a ceramic knob on a unit I made next to it
That's a good point Duggs and one reason I avoid handles if possible. My lad has got about a 1/4 inch dent into the fridge door at home with a ceramic knob on a unit I made next to it
In reply to Post #24
These are handle less. It's an old building that's been converted into flats/apartments and so far all the walls seem to be square and true. I put some shutters on her windows and they didn't need any fettling at all
Different story in my house complete opposite.
These are handle less. It's an old building that's been converted into flats/apartments and so far all the walls seem to be square and true. I put some shutters on her windows and they didn't need any fettling at all
Different story in my house complete opposite.
In reply to Post #24
You can get restrictor for most of the better cabinet hinges, I mostly use blum and their version is easiest to fit, looks like a toe nail trimming you clip into the back of the hole in the door. The magnet hinge is slightly different to the ones I use on higher end stuff so I end up bulk ordering two types.
Some designers I meet look at me like a nutter when I tell them we need them, and these are people selling £50k+ kitchens
You can get restrictor for most of the better cabinet hinges, I mostly use blum and their version is easiest to fit, looks like a toe nail trimming you clip into the back of the hole in the door. The magnet hinge is slightly different to the ones I use on higher end stuff so I end up bulk ordering two types.
Some designers I meet look at me like a nutter when I tell them we need them, and these are people selling £50k+ kitchens
In reply to Post #26
I know what you mean mate, I use Blum stuff too. Unfortunately I made the mistake of doing a proper job and fitting butt hinges with inlaid doors
I know what you mean mate, I use Blum stuff too. Unfortunately I made the mistake of doing a proper job and fitting butt hinges with inlaid doors
In reply to Post #27
Doh
I use some on one companies kitchens that are like a tiny perko but I've never found them to buy on their own. I'm doing a lot of more traditional kitchens with butt's recently so im still keeping a look out for them
Doh
I use some on one companies kitchens that are like a tiny perko but I've never found them to buy on their own. I'm doing a lot of more traditional kitchens with butt's recently so im still keeping a look out for them
In reply to Post #28
Post a photo up one day mate and I'll keep an eye out
Post a photo up one day mate and I'll keep an eye out
In reply to Post #30
I couldn't find anything on there, no results using search box for restrictors or limiters. When I next have some I'll stick a pic up.
I couldn't find anything on there, no results using search box for restrictors or limiters. When I next have some I'll stick a pic up.
In reply to Post #31
sometimes it can be difficult to find.... say good quality butts (you know they are there), just can't find them, had this issue, phoned them and was directed straight to them, some things are not straight forward as we would like.
sometimes it can be difficult to find.... say good quality butts (you know they are there), just can't find them, had this issue, phoned them and was directed straight to them, some things are not straight forward as we would like.
In reply to Post #17
The fixing screws to the side of the cabinet so I can't see how it can sink ???
The fixing screws to the side of the cabinet so I can't see how it can sink ???
In reply to Post #33
On the magnet brackets there aren't any screws, just a push in nylon stud I think. I first noticed it about a year ago after a call back and I've been moaning to the hierarchy since
On the magnet brackets there aren't any screws, just a push in nylon stud I think. I first noticed it about a year ago after a call back and I've been moaning to the hierarchy since
In reply to Post #34
I'm going to do what you describe duggs but I haven't been back to the daughters yet.
I ordered that wall rail from SDS because it was showing as being in stock but it wasn't so I'm still waiting, good job I didn't drive there
I'm going to do what you describe duggs but I haven't been back to the daughters yet.
I ordered that wall rail from SDS because it was showing as being in stock but it wasn't so I'm still waiting, good job I didn't drive there
In reply to Post #35
That's unusual but stock is running low or running out in lots of stuff.
You probably would have driven to Clapham, then sent to earlsfield/Wimbledon then found out it was a wasted journey
That's unusual but stock is running low or running out in lots of stuff.
You probably would have driven to Clapham, then sent to earlsfield/Wimbledon then found out it was a wasted journey
In reply to Post #36
I can think of better ways of wasting a day
I can think of better ways of wasting a day
In reply to Post #36
The rail was supposed to be despatched last Friday but now its going to be 22nd October
I've cancelled and will try somewhere else
The rail was supposed to be despatched last Friday but now its going to be 22nd October
I've cancelled and will try somewhere else
In reply to Post #38
It can make life easier but the rail isn't essential, I only really bother with it when I'm putting 90° corner cupboards in out of square rooms so I can knock the cupboards about a bit.
If you can get it great, if not the gripit things are fine.
It can make life easier but the rail isn't essential, I only really bother with it when I'm putting 90° corner cupboards in out of square rooms so I can knock the cupboards about a bit.
If you can get it great, if not the gripit things are fine.
In reply to Post #39
No my mind is made up, as it's plasterboard I'm getting the rail and using loads of those fixing holes
No my mind is made up, as it's plasterboard I'm getting the rail and using loads of those fixing holes
This message has been suppressed by a moderator.
This message has been suppressed by a moderator.
Any recommendations for fixing tv brackets to plasterboard walls please?.
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