Hi all
looking for a bit of advice on this. I want to get some paint on sealant for the outside walls of the house.
I've found Thompsons waterseal on Amazon. Any good? Any idea how much coverage I'd get from each 5L tin?
cheers
Mal
looking for a bit of advice on this. I want to get some paint on sealant for the outside walls of the house.
I've found Thompsons waterseal on Amazon. Any good? Any idea how much coverage I'd get from each 5L tin?
cheers
Mal
In reply to Post #1
Be very careful!
If you have moisture coming from outside this stuff can help, but, and it's a big but, it can also stop moisture from within breathing through the wall. If your walls are cold to the touch you will get condensation on them which should breath through the wall, this stuff can cause it to build up and cause a bigger damp problem.
Lots of situations where it's fine but also lots of situations where it does more harm than good
Be very careful!
If you have moisture coming from outside this stuff can help, but, and it's a big but, it can also stop moisture from within breathing through the wall. If your walls are cold to the touch you will get condensation on them which should breath through the wall, this stuff can cause it to build up and cause a bigger damp problem.
Lots of situations where it's fine but also lots of situations where it does more harm than good
In reply to Post #2
Ah right..
that's definitely worth knowing as that was the problem.
so - that in mind, how can i tackle the damp inside caused by condensation?
thanks
mal
Ah right..
that's definitely worth knowing as that was the problem.
so - that in mind, how can i tackle the damp inside caused by condensation?
thanks
mal
In reply to Post #3
Best off finding the cause of the condensation first.
Are you doing anything that's putting dampness into the air such as drying clothes over radiators, shower/bath without an extractor fan, boiling pots and pots of lentils? Maybe your house is too air tight, maybe open a window?
We get condensation on the north facing side windows of our house in the winter but not this time of the year, we use a dehumidifier.
Best off finding the cause of the condensation first.
Are you doing anything that's putting dampness into the air such as drying clothes over radiators, shower/bath without an extractor fan, boiling pots and pots of lentils? Maybe your house is too air tight, maybe open a window?
We get condensation on the north facing side windows of our house in the winter but not this time of the year, we use a dehumidifier.
In reply to Post #4
...lentils....
to be honest, I can't figure it. done all the obvious condensation related stuff - open windows etc. the walls are old, thick stone. that's why i thought it might need some waterproofing on the outside...
...lentils....
to be honest, I can't figure it. done all the obvious condensation related stuff - open windows etc. the walls are old, thick stone. that's why i thought it might need some waterproofing on the outside...
In reply to Post #5
If it's thick stone I don't think Thomsons will help. That stone will be naturally cold so when warm moist air hits it will turn to moisture.
Generate as little moist air as possible, consider insulating the inner face of the walls, or use a dehumidifier as mentioned.
Is it all over the house? I've heard of Positive Pressure Ventilation Systems, maybe someone on here has any experience?
If it's thick stone I don't think Thomsons will help. That stone will be naturally cold so when warm moist air hits it will turn to moisture.
Generate as little moist air as possible, consider insulating the inner face of the walls, or use a dehumidifier as mentioned.
Is it all over the house? I've heard of Positive Pressure Ventilation Systems, maybe someone on here has any experience?
In reply to Post #5
My place is solid brick with painted pebbledash so I had problems too, I ended up stripping the the walls back to brick, insulating and plasterboarding. It's the best long term solution I know but obviously costs a lot more than a pot of snake oil.
My place is solid brick with painted pebbledash so I had problems too, I ended up stripping the the walls back to brick, insulating and plasterboarding. It's the best long term solution I know but obviously costs a lot more than a pot of snake oil.
Cheers both 
It's just a couple of bits - lockdown fever got me looking for more diy jobs....
It's just a couple of bits - lockdown fever got me looking for more diy jobs....
In reply to Post #9
Nice one tinhead
Nice one tinhead
In reply to Post #9
Probably does the job but isn't cheap is it!
Insulated plasterboard is the way to go if you can lose room size I reckon, cost can be prohibitive with the thinner insulation products
Probably does the job but isn't cheap is it!
Insulated plasterboard is the way to go if you can lose room size I reckon, cost can be prohibitive with the thinner insulation products
Have a read on stormdry masonry protection cream. Goes on white, dries clear.
In reply to Post #11
If Mal is in a DIY mood then he might be able to put that paper up himself but maybe not the plasterboard especially if needs skimming?
If Mal is in a DIY mood then he might be able to put that paper up himself but maybe not the plasterboard especially if needs skimming?
In reply to Post #1
Render it
Render it
are the inside walls wet or just showing mould..
In reply to Post #13
It's very delicate, and pretty tricky round window reveals etc, really needs another layer of paper over it too as the joins aren't that great and tend to shift a bit. Unless there's a Rad to remove and re pipe I don't think there would be a lot of difference time wise, if using tapered edge boards and easy fill
It's very delicate, and pretty tricky round window reveals etc, really needs another layer of paper over it too as the joins aren't that great and tend to shift a bit. Unless there's a Rad to remove and re pipe I don't think there would be a lot of difference time wise, if using tapered edge boards and easy fill
In reply to Post #13
Wait a minute, your missing the next question, who's gonna do it for him, he's a teacher, no practical skills whatsoever, every time they use a hammer they hit their thumbs ffs
Wait a minute, your missing the next question, who's gonna do it for him, he's a teacher, no practical skills whatsoever, every time they use a hammer they hit their thumbs ffs
Gentlemen - many thanks. (Apart from scozza who can **** off obvs)
The walls have a bit of mould in places. Bit of wallpaper coming away but it's nothing major.
Going back to watching the pangolin programme now. Amazing little creatures!
The walls have a bit of mould in places. Bit of wallpaper coming away but it's nothing major.
Going back to watching the pangolin programme now. Amazing little creatures!
In reply to Post #18
In reply to Post #18
wouldn't touch the outside, sounds just something minor.strip wallpaper, wash mould ares with a fungi wash then re wall paper/paint. if it carries on and gets worse then it sounds like a tanking job. lining with foam back boards is just something building regs state nowadays to outside walls on new builds..
wouldn't touch the outside, sounds just something minor.strip wallpaper, wash mould ares with a fungi wash then re wall paper/paint. if it carries on and gets worse then it sounds like a tanking job. lining with foam back boards is just something building regs state nowadays to outside walls on new builds..
In reply to Post #20
Have had insulated board on the specs a lot and recently on all external walls of an old property converted to 2 flats. Obviously better on batten with solid walls to minimise contact than simply dot and dabbed but it's an affordable diy level job either way and easily finished as Duggs said, with easifill
Have had insulated board on the specs a lot and recently on all external walls of an old property converted to 2 flats. Obviously better on batten with solid walls to minimise contact than simply dot and dabbed but it's an affordable diy level job either way and easily finished as Duggs said, with easifill
In reply to Post #21
batterning and boarding a damp wall isn't curing it, just hiding it.
batterning and boarding a damp wall isn't curing it, just hiding it.
In reply to Post #22
True, but its a cheap fix to the internal problem and shouldn't really deteriorate if the external wall is able to dry after each saturation.
It could possibly solve it but as you know nothing is straight forward with an old building and none of us having any knowledge of it. There's damp through condensation , soaking wet and a big grey area in between
True, but its a cheap fix to the internal problem and shouldn't really deteriorate if the external wall is able to dry after each saturation.
It could possibly solve it but as you know nothing is straight forward with an old building and none of us having any knowledge of it. There's damp through condensation , soaking wet and a big grey area in between
we cant really comment not knowing where the damp is in the ops house, i could say just stick an air brick in but 30 yrs dry lining id be cheating.
In reply to Post #18
The damp doesn't sound that bad I'd do some research on a dehumidifier or even a Positive Pressure Ventilation Systems
The damp doesn't sound that bad I'd do some research on a dehumidifier or even a Positive Pressure Ventilation Systems
In reply to Post #25
Thermal liner is a great product but not the easiest paper to work with 😂 and needs over lining , it's not for damp walls though , it's for insulating walls , to keep the heat in and stop the heat escaping through the walls , I've done a lot of rooms in this ,and all of my customers have been amazed by the difference .rooms warming up quicker and holding the warmth,
perhaps if it's just one wall , batten the wall to creat a small cavity and overboard with thermal board and put a little vent in , just a thought , not a cheap thought 😂
Thermal liner is a great product but not the easiest paper to work with 😂 and needs over lining , it's not for damp walls though , it's for insulating walls , to keep the heat in and stop the heat escaping through the walls , I've done a lot of rooms in this ,and all of my customers have been amazed by the difference .rooms warming up quicker and holding the warmth,
perhaps if it's just one wall , batten the wall to creat a small cavity and overboard with thermal board and put a little vent in , just a thought , not a cheap thought 😂
In reply to Post #3
First off where is the damp in the house and how bad is it?
Next thing is look at every inch of the outside wall where the damp is, check for leaking guttering and down pipes.
Next, it sounds like an old house, look for signs of air blocks, they may have been blocked or covered over externally and or internally. If they have you must unblock them.
Next check the actual ground around the wall for any underground leakage.
Next check the roof, leaks can run down internally of a twin skinned wall's from a slipped slate.
Next check the rooms above if they are bathrooms, again the same thing as above could be your problem.
Next, if you have double glazing see if the trickle vents are open.
Next check any vented products, ie tumble dryer then check all your appliances and sinks connections.
If all the above are good then it's you and your lifestyle creating the problem
I forgot, if you want to really go to town lift the floor boards and see if the ground water level has moved, seen it before.
Thompson's is very good, needs two coats, put it on with a garden fertiliser spray gun and work it in with a wall papering brush.
Should keep you busy
First off where is the damp in the house and how bad is it?
Next thing is look at every inch of the outside wall where the damp is, check for leaking guttering and down pipes.
Next, it sounds like an old house, look for signs of air blocks, they may have been blocked or covered over externally and or internally. If they have you must unblock them.
Next check the actual ground around the wall for any underground leakage.
Next check the roof, leaks can run down internally of a twin skinned wall's from a slipped slate.
Next check the rooms above if they are bathrooms, again the same thing as above could be your problem.
Next, if you have double glazing see if the trickle vents are open.
Next check any vented products, ie tumble dryer then check all your appliances and sinks connections.
If all the above are good then it's you and your lifestyle creating the problem
I forgot, if you want to really go to town lift the floor boards and see if the ground water level has moved, seen it before.
Thompson's is very good, needs two coats, put it on with a garden fertiliser spray gun and work it in with a wall papering brush.
Should keep you busy
In reply to Post #1
Im no expert but have suffered same issues with north facing walls.
Humidity inside the house was causing it and north facing walls being the coldest copped
The damage.
Decent inline fans vented dryer solved it for me.
Someone above mentioned piv systems.
I couldnt get it fitted due to steels in my loft but a friend has a bungalow with three small kids.
Had piv installed and literally overnight solved hes condensation problem.
He accidentally blocked the intake in loft by putting boxes next to intake and next day windows and walls were soaking.
As also said be very careful sealing walls from outside as this can do more
Harm than good.
Im no expert but have suffered same issues with north facing walls.
Humidity inside the house was causing it and north facing walls being the coldest copped
The damage.
Decent inline fans vented dryer solved it for me.
Someone above mentioned piv systems.
I couldnt get it fitted due to steels in my loft but a friend has a bungalow with three small kids.
Had piv installed and literally overnight solved hes condensation problem.
He accidentally blocked the intake in loft by putting boxes next to intake and next day windows and walls were soaking.
As also said be very careful sealing walls from outside as this can do more
Harm than good.
thanks all
some good advice and suggestions.
going to start with the interior options and see where it goes.
much appreciated
some good advice and suggestions.
going to start with the interior options and see where it goes.
much appreciated
In reply to Post #29
What sort of house is it.
Many old terraced houses were built with the brickwork straight to the underlying ground with no slab or effectve dpc. The downward pressure on the ground forces ground underlying damp to rise through the brickwork and through the floors and brickwork.
Although the old brickwork may be deteriorated and porous you will have the internal dam issue to also deal with.
What sort of house is it.
Many old terraced houses were built with the brickwork straight to the underlying ground with no slab or effectve dpc. The downward pressure on the ground forces ground underlying damp to rise through the brickwork and through the floors and brickwork.
Although the old brickwork may be deteriorated and porous you will have the internal dam issue to also deal with.
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