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if your having issues then read through this...
if you pump it up until you feel some resistance on the pump then you know its pressurised. if it still wont feed petrol through then the genny is blocked.
if you get no petrol flow then gently open the petrol filler cap. there should be a hiss as you release the pressure. this will tell you the seal on the pump is working and the seal on the petrol tank is ok. if there is no build up of pressure, and no hiss when you open the fuel cap then the pump washer needs oiling/changing.
you can buy a new genny [about a tenner] but always best to try and clean the old one, as youve nowt to lose!
below is a more detailed breakdown of the problems, and the fixes...
if the flame is orange then its not burning "clean", which means a good balance of air and fuel. the blue flame shows its working correctly.
to get it to run clean you need to have;
clean unleaded fuel.
pressure.
working genny.
to check the fuel is clean empty the petrol into a clear plastic [wide mouthed] bottle and look at it. i always fill my stove from fuel container into plastic bottle with a filter funnel. then into the stove.
i add a small amount of redex injector cleaner [from a car shop/halfords/etc] at the recommended dosage. do not overdo it as you will gum up the stove!
[the fuel should just change colour and have just a tinge of pink to it] use 5ml to 5 litres, but no more!
to ensure you have pressure check the pump washer is not split, and smear in some light oil. check the fuel cap seal looks ok. you should feel the pressure build up and it become difficult to pump. then you know its holding pressure.
the genny is a hollow tube that allows the fuel through. as it flows along it turns to vapour due to the heat of the stove and the pressure in the fuel tank. there is a thin wire inside the genny that runs back and forward as you turn on and off. this is to try and de-coke the inside of the genny to ensure a easy flow of fuel/vapour.
it is easy to clean an old genny by carefully extracting the wire and cleaning the gunge off with the edge of a knife. be careful not to dig it in and kink the wire! put the empty genny into a small pan with some boiling water and a spot of fairy liquid. this will clean out most of the residue.
thoroughly dry and re-assemble... sorted.
some further reading; coleman stove article 
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What's the black blocks that sit at the side of the compartment that the one end of the Genny sits
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In reply to Post #1300
How did you get on with this?
I recently had the fuel leaking out of the on/off lever and found mine had two o rings. After a bit of research the general consensus was the size you need is BS009, tried those and they wouldn’t fit, so tried BS008 and on my particular stove anyway (533) those are the ones. Hope that may help someone, much cheaper than replacing the whole valve. Got mine from Seals R Us on eBay.
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If you try to build up pressure but you take your thumb off the timer knob and the air hisses out then you may need to service your check valve....
I'd never heard f it, but Karl Starnes shared this video with me as he was having the same issues.
https://youtu.be/ElvzkhYOnnQ?si=MNXVqdMtwhjpbKUb
https://youtu.be/ElvzkhYOnnQ?si=MNXVqdMtwhjpbKUb
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In reply to Post #1300
Good work sir
Keep me posted on your progress 👍🏻
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In reply to Post #1299
There is a o ring in there that will need replacing m8 it is 5.28mm inside diameter and 1.78 mm thick according to what I've found out today as I've got the same problem
I just need to find some now as they need to be fuel resistant ones called flouro silicone so I have been told
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In reply to Post #1298
BUMP
Have a relatively new one of these But fuel is escaping via the on / off red switch
Any suggestions as to what might be the cause ?
Only a couple of years old Only ever run on Aspen 4
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In reply to Post #1000
In my experience 90% of problems are simple user error
the complete failure of people to understand that LACK OF PRESSURE will cause big problems and it starts right at the beginning you all start off well pumping it up to max pressure
then you light it once its lit ...>>>>>>you will have LOST LOADS of pressure !! <<<<<<<
so you MUST !! STRAIGHT AWAY PUMP THE GRANNY OUT OF IT TILL you cant pump any more
simple job done it will now run nice blue flame without flare ups or a lollopy yellow flames caused by lack of pressure
cos you didnt replace the pressure lost during the initial lighting process 
I have been using Coleman stoves since I bought my Coleman feather light 400 in 1982 still in use today 40 years on !!!
and I never had any problems until they stopped selling leaded petrol and then the gumming up of the generator started caused by the additives additives include metal deactivators, corrosion inhibitors, oxygenates and antioxidants they put in unleaded petrol for the modern car engines not only that THE FUMES FROM THE STOVE using unleaded are seriously dangerous for your health I have used all the alternatives coleman fuel (naphtha) panel wipe again based on naphtha and others but the DADDY is ASPEN 4 ALKYLATE PETROL none of the horrible smell or fumes and it does not go stale its the purest thing and nothing comes close to making your stove so much easier to use trust me 
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In reply to Post #1279
Do not use redex in a coleman, they operate at a very different temperature to petrol engines.. it won't do it any good
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In reply to Post #1000
Just sent my two Sportster 533s to The Tackle Box in Kent because both of them are unusable. I'm rubbish at repairing things so I bit the bullet. I must say I have been very impressed with their level of attention, communication and speed of service. Both stoves back within 10 days fully working, saving me £250 in replacements. Well done The Tackle Box, you have a new customer! 
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 |  | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1288
Hi Mate,
I have had this a few times, especially when the stove has been sat for a while with pressure.
I simply released all the pressure and re-pumped it. Seems to solve the issue - for my stove, in any case - they are all different..
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In reply to Post #1289
I guess that’s the only place to start, I noticed it’s taken a bang on the top of the generator and pushed it inwards if that makes sense as there’s a small dent in the tank just below it and it looks like petrol has leaked from there at some point.
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In reply to Post #1288
Could be a blocked generator?
The pressure is obviously there & it seems like there's nowhere for it to go...
Try removing & cleaning the generator with the method above or a new one is £16-£20 depending on where you shop?
I've just had mine serviced at the Tacklebox Kent (another option?).
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Got my Coleman feather out earlier and started to give it a pump and petrol started to spurt out of the little hole when I removed my thumb from pumping. I’m Obviously getting pressure but why is it forcing the petrol out of the pump handle. Any ideas what the issue is and how I can resolve this?
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In reply to Post #1285
Dupe...
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In reply to Post #1285
Leather washer is much better for building pressure, oil with olive oil. Buy from ebay.
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In reply to Post #1275
If the seal washer is rubber can it be replaced with leather? Also is there a good place to order spares like this?
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Coka Cola is great for cleaning gennys I soak mine in it for 24 hours.
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In reply to Post #1282
How much is it?.
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In reply to Post #1280
You can get that from the pound shop... 
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In reply to Post #1000
Good advice I'll give this a go
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In reply to Post #1279
cheers will try that soon just ordered some redex as well
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In reply to Post #1278
Run it on a different fuel...or if you must use petrol add a drop of redex...
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In reply to Post #1277
Hi iv got a Coleman Double Burner Unleaded Stove and have had it for almost a year now with constant problems, it seems to take a while to turn blue and then after about 10 minutes it makes a sought of loud puffing sound and goes out, and also the jenny leaks, thanks in advance for any help people may have
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Hi the pump on my sportster is squeaking when pumped does it need lubricating if so what do I use and we're does it go thanks chris
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In reply to Post #1274
hi tom, had a similar issue last year on a coleman sportster stove basically there was hardly any fuel getting through and the generator was blocked, I got a replacement generator of ebay I think? cost was around £20.00
it was easy to fit the new generator myself and sorted the issue for me,however this was the only issue mine didn't leak from burner?
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In reply to Post #1274
Yes, sounds like the genny is blocked. This situation is scary with unleaded fuel  p*ssing all over the place, at least with the colemans pure fuel you can shake the flames out if it gets on your hands, etc.
I know the tackle box do service Coleman stoves, I had some joker put sugar in my tank on Darenth, years ago.
Be careful with it 
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In reply to Post #1273
Hi all.
Just bought myself a Coleman feather off of good old eBay and cannot it to work for the life of me. From reading through here it sounds like it could be he generator that's blocked. It pumps up ok (found that out by opening the fuel cap while pressurised and covering myself in fuel), but when opening the valve only a tiny bit of fuel comes through... Enough to light it but only for a matter of seconds before it fizzles out. The second bout of pumps have no effect. Does that sound like the genny to you's in the know?
Unfortunately it doesn't end there... Fuel now seems to be leaking from somewhere around the Burner itself. Checked the seemingly common areas (pump and fuel cap) and it's definitely not them. This has resulted in a couple of fireballs and a right panic trying to extinguish the ******* with my feet before it erupts.
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In reply to Post #43
Realise that it's an old post but just in case others have this problem then I had the same.
I fixed it by taking off the fuel cap and putting on a thin rubber washer then tightening the fuel cap back up to the washer.
I think that by doing this then the air that I'm pumping into it isn't escaping out of the fuel cap.
Seems to be pumping and working fine now.
Edit - Great thread by the way.
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In reply to Post #1271
Edit: I took mine apart today and couldn't see any obvious leaks so re constructed it and it seems to be ok now!
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In reply to Post #1270
Guys I recently purchased a Coleman 533 stove in America and upon returning I filled it up (might have put a little too much in) and pumped it up then lit it and it was perfect
Went fishing the next day and used it in the evening and again it was fine then the next morning went to make my breakfast so pumped it then it lit but was weak so pumped it up as your supposed to and it just slowly died and I found the fuel tank was covered in fuel.Just had a look at it a week later to determine the leak location so pumped it up and it held pressure fine no leaks then when opening the valve I could hear the fuel coming out somewhere beneath the top.The fuel is exiting the stove beneath the top where it's supposed to so it does not ignite at all it just seeps out any ideas what's wrong and how to fix it?before i tried finding the leak tonight I emptied half the fuel so it's no longer overfilled if it was.
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In reply to Post #1268
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In reply to Post #1267
What are you running it on...?
If petrol get a drop of redex in it and see if that cures the problem...
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In reply to Post #1000
Original camping Gaz stove,35 Years old, no problems no maintenance. Nuff said.
Just don't be in a rush for a brew from me when the gas is running low.
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In reply to Post #1000
Ive recently bought a Colemans 533 sportster dual fuel, and it wont light i've replaced the generator & Pump but to no avail im wondering if there's any way i could fix this?
Thanks for any replies.
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In reply to Post #1265
My 533 is about 19 years old now. Got it out the other day as I wanted to use it as gas can be a pain at this time of year, noticed fuel leaking from the on/off valve. So, replaced that and it's running like new again. Over the last couple of years I have replaced the genny, then the pump and now the valve. So it's pretty much like Trigger's Broom.
Best place for spares is seller mcscott2005 on Ebay
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In reply to Post #1000
Great advice.
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In reply to Post #1000
Fixed the genny in a very simple manner. The wire in the genny has a diameter of 0.3 mm. Get a foot of 0.4mm nichrome wire. It is both stiff enough and hard, and can easily remove any residue block within the genny. Insert it into the genny slowly using pliers several millimeters at a time until approximately 3/4'ths is inserted. Once or twice will do the trick. Good luck!
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In reply to Post #1262
Thanks if I have time tonight I'll see if that'sthe problem
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In reply to Post #1261
i managed to fix mine, i undid the retaining nut and pulled the red tap of the valve and on it was a couple of 'o' rings and one of them had split so the fuel must of been coming from there, i had some at work so just replaced the o ring with a new one wiped a bit of oil on it for lubrication then put it back in, i did put some ptfe tape on the retaining nut aswell for added sealent, pumped and fired it up and boom works fine again. however the 'o' ring i used, well im not sure how long it will last due to it being in contact with fuel.
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In reply to Post #1260
Hi lads had a closer look at my stove last nite it's my assembly valve that is passing anyany ideas on what I can do?
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In reply to Post #1258
I have the same problem but was thinking is it the fuel in the generator leaking out when I turn the stove off
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In reply to Post #1253
Jason street.. i had same issue.totally take stove apart. Drain fuel into clean bowl.. bet you have dirt and flakes in your fuel. Repeat cleaning out till perfectly clean. Took lot of shaking. Then clean the fuel pickup attached to the tap.worked for me.
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In reply to Post #1257
Hi, wondered if any one could help, I have fuel splurting out around the valve assembly, it's a brand new Genny so that's not blocked but it's coming out on the tap under pressure.
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In reply to Post #1256
cheers many thanks all sorted now 
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In reply to Post #1255
from the outside on mine.. I now what you meen
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can anyone help?which way does the bent brass bit fit in the hole?is it from the outside or inside?took mine apart and didn't notice which way it went in the hole
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In reply to Post #1000
Need to give mine a service best stove I've had
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when i light my stove it runs for about 5 seconds then just dies away does anyone know what is causing this ?
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In reply to Post #1250
not the cheapest, about £16 inc post. ebay; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Coleman-Sportster-533-Stove-Dual-Fuel-Generator-Replacement-Part-/251223125599?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Camping_CookingSupplies_ET&hash=item3a7e10ae5f
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In reply to Post #1249
anyone know wheres the cheapest place for a new generator? go outdoors site says 9.99 but the nearest one is in Portsmouth 225m from me and they wont post.
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Will they allow you to ship on of these stove's overseas?
Edit: A new one never been used.
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In reply to Post #1000
thanks great read that my stove now works again
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In reply to Post #1000
very good thread thanks
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Inside the pump there is a small rubber seal, check that this has not split or perished, also if it has dried lube it up with something oil based. They used to have leather washers in which were much better as the rubber is very thin and breaks easily. Mine kept getting caught and not sitting flush until I had a mess about with it and got it working. I ended up using a bit of butter to lubricate it and it was fine from then on.
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In reply to Post #1244
Same as cheers Phil, think it,s to do with the one way valve at the bottom of plunger, becoming two way possibly, have another attack tomo.
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In reply to Post #1243
Yes, and I have to often re-pump fairly quickly to stop it dying, and then maybe 50 times to get optimum burn.
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In reply to Post #1242
When you re-pump after just igniting, does your flame die down when you withdraw the plunger??
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In reply to Post #1241
I have no clue about the valve, however...
It could be the generator. I cleaned the generator on mine and got it working only to have it die on me again the next time I was on the bank.
I then bought a new washer set with leather pump cup thinking that I had fixed the generator and perhaps the problem was somewhere else. This made no difference.
Try cleaning the generator, there are a few methods listed here. If yours is like mine though, a replacement generator could be the answer.
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In reply to Post #1240
When i release the plunger to apply more pressure, pump again, the flame dies down, does this suggest that the one way valve is failing. Doesn't seem to get the same resistance as when it was new,
got a new leather washer clean primus fuel, and an annoying yellow flame at rear, bought a new valve but cant remove existing, a big flat headed screw type.
Or do you think just a dirty genny?
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1239
Each cooker is so unique, each with their own idiosyncracies.
If you buy one with the above statement in mind then you won't be so surprised when yours works and your mates doesn't!
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In reply to Post #1238
I`m not sure if it is of any help at all but I have come to the conclusion on my stove that the wafers need stacking neatly for a clean, correctly directed burn. When I haven`t taken care in the past, the pan below the wafers has become glowing hot.
Like I say, it may be of no help whatsoever. Each cooker is so unique, each with their own idiosyncracies.
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In reply to Post #1237
Pan sizes vary and the kettle is a small one cup jobby and the problem persists.
I'll strip it down again and check out the genny, I have a spare if needed.
Because it fires up and burns well I've never re-stripped it. The bowl has always glowed red as they do but the heat transfer downwards is an unusual development
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1234
Could be a blockage in the genny, maybe some dissloged deposits that where left in after you cleaned it. Pump it up again and open and close the valve very quickly, do this a few times and jsut maybe it will clean itself, failing that, strip it and start again.
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1235
thats not right...maybe a silly question , but are you using a kettle/pan with a bigger base? Ie reflecting more heat back?
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In reply to Post #1000
Just getting my stove out for the winter.
I've had it about 15 years or more ( was the DualFuel now called the Sportster 533) and apart from the first year when I ran it on Petrol, I've run it ever since of Coleman fuel and for the last 9 years or so on Aspen 4T so it's nice and clean.
During it's lifetime I've replaced the generator (after the initial petrol phase)and also replaced the origial pump washer with a leather upgrade mode, which is regularly oiled.
So, it runs perfectly, lovely blue flame. The problem that I have is the bottom part of the stove which houses the fuel tank is getting extremely hot. Now I understand the principle behind the generator heating up the pressurised fuel as it passes over the burner and that's fine as it has an outlet ie it burns in the bowl.
However the bottom beneath the burner is a different matter. It never used to get this hot. There is no fuel leaking from beneath the burner, in fact everything is as should be just the actual bottom part of the stove, the main body beneath the burner box assembly is far far hotter than is safe. The piece of heat retardant material is still in place between the burner box assembly and the main body/fuel tank.
When I go to turn it off like most other people I place my left hand on the shoulder of the bottom of the stove to steady it and turn off the red lever with my right hand, only now I need to wear a glove or wrap a thick rag on my left hand to steady the stove. As I said, far , far too hot for safety.
Anyone had this problem and know a fix?
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In reply to Post #2
I recently tried to get my old Coleman working again and after removing the needle and wire and cleaning the generator I got it going. Although I must add I didn`t try the boiling water/fairy liquid suggestion, rather WD40 and pressurised air.
Sputtery flame at first but then it started burning a treat. I let it burn off a full tank which also got rid of the heavy carbon deposits. I was well chuffed!
Went fishing, first morning tried to brew up but couldn`t get the thing going again. When pumping, fuel came out of the pump hole. Couldn`t get any pressure, or at least no hissing sound came out when turning the burner valve lever.
Where would be the first place to look? New pump washer? If so, how do I take it apart to get to it?
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In reply to Post #1220
As good as new......
Well apart from a little polish up..... 
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In reply to Post #1231
Job done then happy days.......
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In reply to Post #1230
it was the genny blocked, scotchbrite and some wd40 sorted it.
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In reply to Post #1229
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In reply to Post #1228
i strippped it on the bank, and managed another brew on it but then it give up and so did i. i could run it on lighter fuel if i could get the dam thing to light. ill strip it down later when the kids are in bed. theres a peice of folded foam material under the burner that looked a bit crusty though so its probably this or the genny blocked.
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In reply to Post #1227
It's got to be the fuel your running it off even though you've added redex,might be worth running some colemans fuel through it to clear it out......then take it from there...... 
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In reply to Post #1226
yes, with abit of redex
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In reply to Post #1225
Are you running it on petrol?
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In reply to Post #1224
iv had it a good few years, cant get it to light then when it did was underneith. i have pressuse but next to no fuel coming through.
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In reply to Post #1223
Defiantly don't seem as robust as they once were,what's up with yours dude....?
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In reply to Post #1222
my coleman decided to pack up last night, no brew or bacon this morning 
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In reply to Post #1221
Just over £4 mate so peanuts really just wish i ordered one with the ring set...... 
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1220
How much is a b-bowl Martin?
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Just repairing mine at the minute ordered a ring set and when took it apart realised I now need a burner bowl one on order as from tomorrow so hopefully up and running in a few days....can't be doing without a brew on the bank.....
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In reply to Post #1217
sorry late getting back .it was the washer greased it up as you said works a treat many thanks
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In reply to Post #1217
sorry late getting back .it was the washer greased it up as you said works a treat many thanks
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1216
What was the winning method snowy?
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In reply to Post #1215
All sorted many thanks
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1214
Sound like no pressure. Try greasing the washer before you buy another. If you do need one, leather is better.
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In reply to Post #1213
no the pump does not get harder it stays the same ,you can see a jet of fuel coming out the genny and the flame stay yellow i would say there is no pressure there .so i will give the genny a clean out see if that is any better if not get a new washer and by that do you mean the rubber thing on the pump?
Thanks
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1212
Could be either one of not enough pressure or a blockage in the genny.
When you pump it does it get harder to pump? if not change the washer, if it does then clean out the genny. If you don't know how to there are instructions further down, although I do like the idea of using coca cola. Sometimes you can clear a blockage by rapidly turning the valve from hi to low, you will hear it go as the whoosh is louder if you know what I mean.
That dripping is fuel that isn't being turned into a mist and so dipping out the end of the genny. Not the best thing to have 
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In reply to Post #1211
The drip is from the end that goes under the flame .once i open up the tape after pumping it starts to hiss then you can see dripping from the oppersit end to the tape .
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1209
From where on the generator is the fuel dripping?
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Check the leather seal in the generator normally this will wear and split during use.
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In reply to Post #1208
Thanks for that but i still have a problem .
After pumping up the stove i can see fuel dripping out of the generator this can not be right it runs down the stove and then its up in flames .
So am i doing somthing wrong or do i need a new generator .
please help
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Been using these stoves for years in the army and they are very good. I have tried different fuels and they tend to clog up the pipes. Using the colemans fuel I do not have this problem. Also if leaving the cooker unused for long periods the fuel becomes unstable so good practice is to empty when being stored.
If experiencing problems with burning or leaks it mainly was the pipes being clogged with different fuels, quick fix was to strip the pipes and run through with cleaning brush and soaking the wire. this tends to fix most of my problems.
hope this helps, it worked for me.
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In reply to Post #1205
Cheers for the advice. The seal in filler cap had perished , replaced with a new one. Working fine now
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In reply to Post #1205
Hi just filled my coleman cooker up and after pumping up 25/30 times i can here a hissing from under the flame and then it went up in flames. so can any one help ?
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In reply to Post #1204
it might be the rubber seal on the fuel filler cap has perished. try swapping the cover with a mate and try that. . maybe some ptfe tape on the thread might effect a temporary repair as a tester.
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HAving trouble keeping pressure with feathlight stove, Got a new genny on it, plus changed rubber pump washer to a leathrer version.
Do the following.
Pump 25-30 times.
Ignite
Pump 25-30 times.
Looses pressure after a minute. Don't want to keep re-pressuring every, any ideas what's wrong.
By way run on coleman fuel.
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In reply to Post #1000
the best thing to clean out generators is to soak in coca cola overnight, and you will be suprised how much c--p comes out i have done this once a year for 8 years and still on the original genny,regards.
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In reply to Post #1000
In reply to Post #1000
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In reply to Post #1000
The best thing for cleaning out generators is to leave it soaking in coca cola overnight, and then see how much c--p comes out have done it once a season for about 8years and still on origianal genny.
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In reply to Post #1000
Help! Iv recently fitted a new generator and pump kit to my coleman. I tried cleaning the old one because it was burning with a yellow flame. Problem now is it isnt burning as hot or powerful as it used to. Any ideas anyone?? Thanks.
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1197
hi there, would these tips also apply to their lamps aswell as i have 2 that just will not light.. they have plenty of pressure but when i swing the lever to release the fuel to ignite them.... nowt.
Yes.
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When I withdraw the pump with finger over hole, the pressure decreases (flame dies),does this suggest the tank valve is leaking? If so is this repairable?
Update, think I have fixed this by removing inner stem placing oil around the thread to form better seal/gasket.
Fingers crossed
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In reply to Post #1000
hi there, would these tips also apply to their lamps aswell as i have 2 that just will not light.. they have plenty of pressure but when i swing the lever to release the fuel to ignite them.... nowt.
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In reply to Post #1195
colemans are never good at lower heat settings. they may splutter a bit, or as yours does, be either full on or off. 
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In reply to Post #1194
Guys, HELP, fitted a new genny to my ageing sportster, now goes like a b*****d, but one problem, fully open is fine but try turning it down and it just slowly goes out.
It will not burn for any time on anything other than full bore, any suggestions?
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In reply to Post #1193
Cheers mate, all done and working a treat, done it about 10 minutes before you posted!  Makes me feel a bit better though
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In reply to Post #1191
gun oil will be fine. bit thin but will still help
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In reply to Post #1189
Triple Post 
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In reply to Post #1189
Probally a silly question but havnt got any 3 in 1 for my new pump, got some gun oil for my shotgun, is the same?
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In reply to Post #1189
Probally a silly question but havnt got any 3 in 1 for my new pump, got some gun oil for my shotgun, is the same?
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In reply to Post #1188
Performed open heart surgery (took the pump out a few times!) in a desperate plea to have a coffee, seems ok now, may buy a spare pump/seal to keep in rucksack though'
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In reply to Post #1186
I'm on the bank now, just had a fish so went to steam my chod and can't get any pressure in Coleman just loads of free play in pump, took pump off and doesn't look worn or split? Any ideas?
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In reply to Post #1000
Just fired my first Coleman up today (I bought it off Ebay) and it works a treat.
Great advice in this thread though.
Nice one.
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In reply to Post #1185
Well after having a good read of this thread I just took the Coleman apart and give the generator a good clean inside and out (took the wire out and give that a good clean too), seems to be running like new FOR NOW! Hasn't run like that in years!
Its now in the rucksack ready for the early morning brew test tomorrow when I get down the Pit!
Thanks all who have posted in this thread, all the info really helped
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In reply to Post #1184
cheers dude, not confident fiddling with things do you know if there is anywhere I can send it to be done?
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In reply to Post #1183
blocked genny, mate. follow previous advice.
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Having real trouble with my sportster 553, at first it would light then go out after a few seconds......quite annoying when trying to have the first brew of the day, now it doesnt realease any fuel at all and wont light (and yep theres plenty of pressure in there!) its probally done 300 nights without any repairs etc since new before I started getting problems with it but as im useless mechanically I havnt got a clue! Im guessing theres a serious blockage somewhere!
Im very tempted to just chuck it and buy another!
Any ideas?
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i managed to get it back with an old needle. works good as new now. burns a bit high at first (like 3foot flames) but Im cooking again ;-)
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In reply to Post #1179
Just hook it out with a stringer needle or similar , preferably an old one if you dont fancy petrol residue on one you use for baits . hook behind it and pull gently,
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Do you mean the non return ball bearing valve Richard?
If so i think the spring goes on them and you have to replace the whole generator.
I rang up coleman and they gave me a parts department they use in the uk.
Im sure the company i used is Johncross. If not try oldgeezer on the forum is pretty clued up about coleman stoves.
Try this website for spares, Im not sure if its the cheapest but the prices seem reasonable.
Johnscross spares
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hi guys, been having problems with my stove for a bit and decided to investigate, found the generator was partially blocked so took it off and soaked it and was quite impressed at the amount of crap i got out of it to be honest. now when i came to put it back on somehow the valve inside the generator has slipped back up inside and i cant seem to get at it to get it out.
any ideas guys?
do i need to get a new generator and if so where is best to buy from? and how do i stop this happening with a new one.
many thanks in advance
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In reply to Post #1176
Well, the check valve got here alright, but it proved impossible to take out the old one, so I'm pretty much stuck with a brick. I tried car mechanics and metal shops around the village we're at now, none of them could extract what seems like a totally stuck valve.
Field serviceability... not impressed.
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In reply to Post #1174
Hi, just had the same problem. I f you take off the pump mechanism, the bar that slots into it may be jammed. It can be freed carefully using a pair of pliers.
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In reply to Post #1175
Thanks for the note.
I contacted Coleman UK and a quite helpful chap had the following to say:
[...]your problem is the check valve ( one way valve ) which is in the bottom of the pump cylinder these do normally perish over time ( i.e. years ) these cost £9.99 & can be replaced by using a 3/4 " metal file & a pair of molgrips simply unscrew & replace
I ordered the part (which btw appears to cost 25% of that in the US...) and will let you know how it goes when I receive it.
Cheers
Alex
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Hi Alex it sounds like the little non-return ball bearing is not working on your stove, i had the same problem with my Duel fuel tilley lamp but i just put it down to genral wear and tear of the leather seal splitting, after buying a new generator and leather seal they lamp worked fine. I know they say you should try and give it 30 plunges to prime this and to be honest it wouldnt work for me. I found it hard and expensive to obtain spares from coleman's but did find a shop on Ebay which sells spare leather seals and generators. If not try Gerry Oldgeezer on the forum i know hes pretty clued up with the coleman range
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Hi all
I´ve cooked at least 100 meals on my Sportster 533 (which I´ve had for 3 years now). Yesterday I went to bed with a cold sandwich.
Symptom: It´s impossible to do the first step (pump 30 times to build pressure before lighting the stove), as the pump will not even accept being pumped ONCE with my finger on the hole...
With the hole uncovered the pump appears to move in and out as normal.
I have drained the fuel, left the fuel cap open while pumping, no difference. It´s still impossible to pump even once.
I took the pump out to have a look and this is what it looks like: Photo of pump
As I am "in the field" (cyclo-touring in Chile) I don´t have proper oil, but I sprayed WD-40 all over the pump parts and reassembled to no avail.
1. Is this seal broken? The center part looks quite regularly shaped and thus normal to me.
2. What else could be going on here?
3. If worse comes to worst and I have to get spare parts where do I order them from? Coleman USA even though the stove was purchased in the UK?
Cheers
Alex
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In reply to Post #1172
I have a new gen for my sportster but it's dfferent to my old one, in that the end which goes under the burner and is fixed in place by the plate and 2 screws, is round, whereas on my old one it's hex.
I'm assuming this won't fit, and don't want to open the packaging as it would prevent me returning it. My stove is getting on for 20 years old so maybe I need an older version with a hex nut, or maybe the round one will still fit - can anyone clarify please?
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In reply to Post #1171
Sounds like your generator again. I have experienced similar issues and reverted to cleaning everything out by using the Coleman fuel every five or six fill ups. In between I use normal 2 star with redex as suggested by BM in post 1000. I assume you have checked that the "L" shaped brass tag on the end of the wire is correctly positioned in the valve as well??
Incidently if you really want to sort out your stoves go and read post 1000 it is very detailed and contains some excellent advise.
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In reply to Post #1170
Ok my sportster 533 has a problem, when I turn the red lever it's a bit temperamental and fuel sometimes comes out properly and then other times it only comes out slightly?! I have stripped it and cleaned it all up but it's still the same! Any ideas people?? Gen was only replaced about 6 months ago!!
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In reply to Post #1169
i have the same stove and i contacted coleman in the states to find out how to get my stove serviced they told me how to do it myself its really simple just be careful when you take it apart its a little fiddly getting the fuel bar off but once you have in bits its simple to clean and will save you a small fortune taking it to a shop to do the same job they told me its just carbon clogging the holes so just use a toothbrush on all the bits and a little petrol and job done hope this helps a little
just 1 thing DONT take out the rockwool inside you wont get it back in just clean off as much crap as you can
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My coleman is occassionally emitting flames from under the burner unit, and also sometimes when it is switched off I can hear fuel escaping.
Before I take the thing to pieces and work out that I don't know what is wrong with it can anyone thing of any likely scenarios?
It is very erratic, it will be fine for ages then do it a few times in sucession. It nearly got booted into the lake on Friday night when the whole thing errupted in flames. Had I not been so desperate for a brew it would have done
Releasing the pressure stops the fuel leaking (obviously), is it likely to be something to do with the lever assembley not pushing the wire all the way back through and allowing fuel to escape? It sounds like it is coming from under ther burner unit though which makes my first suggestion near enough impossible.
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Having Real Trouble With My Stove, The Generator Was Broken So Ive Replace That And Now When Igniting The Flame Goes Sky High, And When Turning Off Its Still Letting Out A Little Bit Of Fule And Wont Stop !! Does AnyBody Know Whats The Problem !!
I havnt Got The Receipt AnyMore Can I Still Send It Off To Get It Serviced ?
Any Help Is Much Appreciated
Thanks !!
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In reply to Post #1166
It's between posts 76 and 1158 (don't ask me why) 
if your having issues then read through this...
if you pump it up until you feel some resistance on the pump then you know its pressurised. if it still wont feed petrol through then the genny is blocked.
if you get no petrol flow then gently open the petrol filler cap. there should be a hiss as you release the pressure. this will tell you the seal on the pump is working and the seal on the petrol tank is ok. if there is no build up of pressure, and no hiss when you open the fuel cap then the pump washer needs oiling/changing.
you can buy a new genny [about a tenner] but always best to try and clean the old one, as youve nowt to lose!
if its not burning "clean", which means a good balance of air and fuel. the blue flame shows its working correctly.
to get it to run clean you need to have;
clean unleaded fuel.
pressure.
working genny.
to check the fuel is clean empty the petrol into a clear plastic [wide mouthed] bottle and look at it. i always fill my stove from fuel container into plastic bottle with a filter funnel. then into the stove.
i add a small amount of redex injector cleaner [from a car shop/halfords/etc] at the recommended dosage. do not overdo it as you will gum up the stove!
[the fuel should just change colour and have just a tinge of pink to it] use 5ml to 5 litres, but no more!
to ensure you have pressure check the pump washer is not split, and smear in some light oil. check the fuel cap seal looks ok. you should feel the pressure build up and it become difficult to pump. then you know its holing pressure.
the genny is a hollow tube that allows the fuel through. as it flows along it turns to vapour due to the heat of the stove and the pressure in the fuel tank. there is a thin wire inside the genny that runs back and forward as you turn on and off. this is to try and de-coke the inside of the genny to ensure a easy flow of fuel/vapour.
it is easy to clean an old genny by carefully extracting the wire and cleaning the gunge off with the edge of a knife. be careful not to dig it in and kink the wire! put the empty genny into a small pan with some boiling water and a spot of fairy liquid. this will clean out most of the residue.
thoroughly dry and re-assemble... sorted.
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In reply to Post #1165
cheers m8
Where the hell is post 1000. ITS NOT HERE!!!!!!
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In reply to Post #1164
You could try removing the generator pipe and simmer it in a pan of water with a good squirt of fairy liquid for about 15-20mins, it usually helps clean the carbon deposits off the inside of the pipe, but there's no guarantees......otherwise a new genny costs about £13 and takes two mins to fit.
Info in post 1000
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In reply to Post #1163
Yes m8. Just filled it up and theres pressure in the tank.
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In reply to Post #1162
Flash, I'm presuming there's fuel in it, so it sounds like the generator might be blocked.
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In reply to Post #1161
Can anyone help??
Just got the coleman out and havent used it since last year.
I pump it full of pressure but turn on the valve and have nothing coming through, not even a hiss.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
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In reply to Post #1159
DO NOT POUR WATER ON IT !!! when its cold just get a small spanner andGENTLY tighten all the nuts and bolts and you will find it stops leaking.The nuts are only factory fitted and loosen in transit.If you turn it down to minimum for one minute before you turn it off it will light better withonly 10-15 pumps
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hi just bought a coleman and filled it up once , working perfect then when i turn her of she keeps going wich i no is fine but then under the top were its suppost to come out under neath the metal base flames come from under there , and i have to poor water on it .what shood i do
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In reply to Post #1000
I`ve had Coleman`s for years and I bougt some new gennys in the past because I`d used unleaded fuel in them and they got clogged. Coleman fuel in the Uk is expensive like £6 just for a small tin.
I use Coleman Fuel ONLY now and get it for £6 a LITRE from here ...........
http://www.askari-fishing.com:80/__WebShop__/product/fishing/camping-boats-1/camping-cookers-heaters/coleman-fuel/detail.jsf
My advice - get some now.
Hope this helps.
Russell (aka Baron)
PS: Make sure you always `regularly` put a drop of oil down the pump cup hole (when you get back from a trip) then it`ll work a lot easier and the washer (leather or rubber) won`t dry out either. Oh yes and it also helps if you put two small drops of the old REDEX in with the complete fuel fill (you can get a tall neck small bottle from Halfords) it`s the stuff some guys still put in motorcycles as an `upper cylinder lubricant`. Try it, it really helps.
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In reply to Post #74
you ha.ve to go gas all the time no smell
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In reply to Post #1000
had about 5 colemans in the past all right when new but don,t last that long before fu.king up.go with the gas much less hassle and more cleaner
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In reply to Post #1000
I've used either Shell V Power or equivalent in mine for years and have never needed to service it.
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In reply to Post #71
Cheers mate!
thats what I thought too, but wanted to be on the safe (lets just say when it comes to screws and spanners... I aint all that )<
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #70
Simple! release all the pressure first!
Take the 2 screws out of the plate that the generator sits in at the spout end.
Undo the nut at the valve end and remove the generator.
then to replace, put the spout end in. in the valve end is a little bent piece of brass, this slots into the valve stem, then line it up do the nut up hand tight and tighten with the applicable sized spanner. Replace the support and replce screws.
Before you light that stove, double check that the nut is on nice and tight!
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In reply to Post #1000
How do I fit a brand new generator onto a coleman sportster 533 stove?
a step by step would be real handy if possible, and if anyone knows a website where it has instructions that would be awesome 
Cheers lads
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In reply to Post #68
We have 64 threads on maintaing this stove , i've made me mind up and would'nt one touch if they give em away free . 
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #67
Genny comes complete, small wire included. As for the low setting problem: A guy did post on this thread suggesting to add an extra 'frilly ring' to the rings were the flames come out, stating that it improved the control on his coleman. If you read back a few posts its all there.
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In reply to Post #1000
evening chaps,
recently purchased a new coleman sportster 533 and it wont burn on low any ideas, also when you order a new generator does it come with the small wire inside or is it all seperate,
many thanks.
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In reply to Post #65
Does anyone know how long a full capacity petrol tank will last on a coleman stove?
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #64
sounds like you have unburnt fuel in the bottom of the burner cup. Do you give it a couple of quick 'low to full' bursts brfore turning it off?
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Are you to de-pressurise before storage after each fishing trip? Mine makes my bag smell like crazy. I have turned it off and the red lever is in the closed possition.
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In reply to Post #62
yeah, it was full and its taking like 2mins of constant pumping for a pure blue flame.. is it normal then?
thanks dan
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In reply to Post #61
if its low on fuel then there is more air space to pressurise, so there is more pumping needed. if you fill to within a couple of centimetres from the lip it should pump up quite easily. as the fuel level drops it needs more pressure.
even a full stove needs a good pumping prior to lighting. you should pump it until you feel its getting very tight. this is the build up of air pressure inside the stove.
if the flame starts to turn slightly yellow it needs re-pumping to restore the fuel/air mix.
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In reply to Post #60
hi, when i pump mine up it takes ages of constant pumping to turn the flame all blue.
im guessing that the pump needs fixing? if so where can i get it repaired?
thanks dan
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In reply to Post #59
no need really as you could just soak it in a plastic tube, we only used to do it that way with the exhausts because of their size.
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In reply to Post #58
might not be so easy to get the caustic soda down the genny pipe as it is with an exhaust pipe, though 
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In reply to Post #57
You can get it from any hardwear store or somewhere like B&Q, its dead cheap so you shouldn't be paying over much £2 for a tub.
I used to plug one end up then just pour about 1 cup full of soda into the exhaust and pour in luke warm water because if you use hot water it will shoot water out the pipe or the gas it gives off (you can weld with it) will burn your lungs as it is a little bit toxic .
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In reply to Post #56
might consider that if none of the previous can bring a genny back from the dead.
how much caustic to how much water? do you have to add the soda to hot water to get it to dissolve?
and where do you get it from?
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In reply to Post #55
thats the one fella , it used to be the best thing going for the bikes.
We just left it over night
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In reply to Post #54
do you mean;
remove the wire from the genny, then soak in a caustic soda solution, to help break down the carbon deposits?
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In reply to Post #1000
Just as an idea, we always used to used caustic soda to remove carbon from our motorbike exhausts. 2 stroke engines burn alot of oil so you had to clean the exhaust 1-2 times per year and caustic soda always worked and was cheap.
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In reply to Post #51
ok ta its fine the first time i light it burns bright blue flame but if i relite it ten mins later this is when i have issues il take it apart today
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In reply to Post #50
whats it been run on, aspen?
sorry, read your post again!
maybe your not whacking enough pressure into it. although the aspen is supposed to be cleaner [never used it] it will still need the right fuel/air mix. the redex will de-carbon it, and the full pressure burn/hi heat will clear the soot/coke.
mine burns red hot, the outer ring glows
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In reply to Post #49
cheers dave even put redex in it when its never been run on petrol since new
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In reply to Post #48
start with emptying all the old fuel into a clear bottle. this allows you to see what ***** has been going through the stove!
add some new fuel [normal unleaded] with a tiny bit of redex in it [5ml to 5 litres]
pump it up to full pressure, and then light. as soon as its burning fully and glowing hot, turn on and off a few times. tap the genny with the back of a large spoon, to help dislodge any carbon in the genny.
turn on and off a few times [rapidly] and see if its now burning cleanly. make sure your using it pumped up to full pressure.
if your still struggling try reading all the previous info.
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In reply to Post #47
im having dire prob with my double burner keeps burning yellow flame and never turns to blue after a while bloody keeps getting everything all black had to resort to jacks gas cooker last week , plus i dont run it on petrol only aspen 4t ?? any ideas
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In reply to Post #1000
Great info. Cheers everyone.
Have a double burner and had issues with a leaking on-off valve as dripping fuel was collecting. Reckoned it was a blocked genny causing a back up of pressure escaping out of the on-off valve - confirmed by a quick phonecall to the Tackle Box (Coleman spares and repair centre).
After stripping down the genny assembly and boiling it in water for 15 minutes then rebuilding it and hey presto...
...ROARING BLUE FLAMES on both hobs. Just like new!
Thanks to this thread I've saved £15-25 on spares + postage charges . 
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In reply to Post #1000
great advice
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In reply to Post #1000
great advice
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In reply to Post #43
when you put the pump or plunger back in make sure it locks into the inner pipe which locks it up to keep the presure in as in when you pump it 20 times you always turn it to lock it when pushing it back in if it s not gone back properly you loose the locking of system for the pressure
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In reply to Post #42
Just stripped the whole stove down and cleaned every part. I can get some pressure now - enough for it too light but can't build it up for a nice blue flame. Think i'll keep playing until i suss it out.
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In reply to Post #39
there could be the slightest imperfection in the washer, maybe in the centre?
to eliminate the chance of it being your washer try swapping over the pump assembly with a mates, just to test your stove. if it works with the replacement then it must be your washer. if it needs replacing then get a leather one.
if it aint the washer...
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In reply to Post #38
Still can't build up any pressure on mine. Had the pump apart and the washer is fine and have oiled it up. Any more ideas please?
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In reply to Post #37
its just the way they are.
never good for gentle heating. the best compromise is to get the stove really hot, then it will turn down to a simmer for a while before it starts blowing out yellow flames.
i boil the kettle for a brew first, then put the frying pan on for the bacon. if you do it the other way around it gets messy.
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In reply to Post #36
put new genarator in mine last wk now cant get to simmer properly any ideas any one when fitting to the lever the bit with the hook on dident realy want to pull in and up when testing i think it s not going back to slow the petrol down s its on full or nothing help
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In reply to Post #34
dont pull it mate you will need to buy a new one they never go back right nightmare 
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In reply to Post #34
not taken one of them apart... anyone???
i would imagine its the same principle as the sportster. the wire is connected to the on/off lever, not the jet end. the jet is a fixing at the other end of the genny, and is not removable. you can clean the outside of the jet. just a gentle scrape. this will help the flow of the vapour across to the burner plates.
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In reply to Post #1000
any one know if the wire inside the generator tube comes out on the feather 400 coleman model.....stripped it out to clean but the jet appears to be fixed
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In reply to Post #30
take the pump assembly apart and look at the pump washer. if its the plastic washer check for splits around the edge and in the centre where it secures to the central shaft. if its damaged it needs to be replaced, and its better getting a leather one.
if the plastic one looks sound then it may have contracted. smear lightly [front and back]in some cooking oil. this will slightly expand the plastic and may be enough to give you a decent seal again.
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In reply to Post #31
Haven't tried anything yet, only noticed it last night when i was refuelling it ready for the weekend.
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In reply to Post #30
sounds like your washer has gone , as a thought ,have you oiled it
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In reply to Post #29
Got a problem with my Coleman. Seems like there is a problem with the pump as i can't generate any pressure no matter how much it is pumped. The pump feels very 'loose' when pumping and you don't have to apply any pressure when pumping it.
Any ideas? It is a case of buying the pump repair kit and replacing as necessary?
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In reply to Post #28
Im still running gas as i bought a bulk lot of gas so i dont use my colman a lot only winter just putting it away thought i would fire it up runs like a dream i can turn the flame down well below the bit the pan sit on
When my gas runs out colman for me i can finaly cook on it you be surprised how low the flame will go
I only replaced the wrinkley bits and sorry yes still used the same top screw
Hope i have helped a few out ..simon
Just checked mine running again the flame is just above the last plate where your screw is
Atleast the sitting room is warm now
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In reply to Post #27
had a quick shufti on mine and it has three of the wrinkly plates. hhhmmmm 
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In reply to Post #26
Will go and count up what i have then post back
It works a treat havent had any problems just thought i would pass it on to may be help others out.
Back in 5
Without stripping it i have counted 5 crinkle ones and it still has the flat plates in which go between to pack it up.
If doesnt add up i will strip it down
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #25
yep true, some do want to contine burning! bloody things!
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In reply to Post #24
some will be crap from in the fuel or container, and the rest of the sooting in the genny will be fuel that is left in there from when the stove is turned off, and a trickle of fuel is still flowing. you must have seen some that almost refuse to turn off! the heat will dissipate from the genny,but some fuel will collection the genny, hence the yellow flame on turn off. fuel is being burnt, but heat and the extra air is no longer present. the is almost certainly what is coking up the genny. its just like a carburettor on a car that is running with a poor fuel/air mix.
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #23
But I think that the idea was to burn off the deposits in the genny, the result was worst case.
Makes sense though, the better your fuel is vopourised then surely less is left behind to turn to gunk, or is that just crap from the fuel/container.
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In reply to Post #22
and the fuel now flowed freely - albeit exiting from the new holes! so with more care this may well work.
i had read that bit from the link. i think he's actually refering to knackering his genny by burning through the outer and burning extra holes for the fuel to flow out better [irony?]
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #20
That kinda ties into what the guy says in the further reading link.
Maybe the extra heat is conducive to a better fuel vapourising leaving less in the genny?
I have a few spares, once I get the genny unblocked I will give it a go.
From the link:-
First, heat was suggested by a friend. This could be a goer, I remember my dad heating up his motorcycle exhaust with a blow lamp or oxyacetylene to clear the carbon blocking the flow of gases.
First I tried placing it on a domestic gas cooker ring. This successfully heated the generator to a red glow, but no difference in the flow of fuel was achieved. Next I tried a gas blow lamp, this time the generator was glowing a brighter red. Unfortunately I went a little too far with this method and burnt some small holes in the brass tubing. I was able to recover some ash from the generator, presumably from the burnt carbon deposits I was attempting to remove, and the fuel now flowed freely - albeit exiting from the new holes! so with more care this may well work.
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In reply to Post #20
never heard of this before, Simon. might give it a try when i next have a stove in bits...
interseting idea.
how many extra burner rings did your mate add, and did he have to change the screw [the one in the centre that retains the burner rings] for a longer one.
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In reply to Post #1000
I have a little tip if you havent tried or heard off for the colman 533 petrol stove
A freind of mine doubled up the burner rings and now it runs like a dream i can turn it up or right down and cook perfect every time mine is brand new and it wouldnt ever turn down low so a mate of mine added more plates just under the generator and it runs like a dream.
Think they cost me a £10 but worth every penny
Hope that might help some one out good luck ... Easy to do as well
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In reply to Post #18
cheers fella will have to look into it bit further i have the duel fuel 2 burner i think that pump kit will fit
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In reply to Post #1000
i have coleman double stove. does anybody know where you can get spare parts as need new pump and seal.
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In reply to Post #14
Yes, cover the hole with your thumb as you pump.........It won't build up the pressure if you don't, surley?
Have I just fell for a trick question? 
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just a quick question , when pumping up are we supposed to cover the hole in the pump or not?? cheers
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In reply to Post #12
nice one, Pete
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In reply to Post #1000
Dave, another easy way is to remove the wire and squirt carb cleaner down the pipe, then put the cable back in and move it back and forth, then clean it out with a air compressor, works every time
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In reply to Post #10
maybe the tube if fractured and you wil need a new genny. if you have checked the nut that seals the genny onto the on/off switch and thats solid it may be worth undoing it and having a close look at the end of the genny where it fits into the nut.
if all else fails its going to be a new genny.
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Got a problem coleman, getting pressue, cleared genny. Reassembled, however once lit petrol leaks from genny attachment above on/off lever. Have tightenedd but now won't even light.
Any ideas???
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I use two drops of red X in a full tank every time and have never had a problem.
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| | | Sgfc | | Posts: 4305 | | | aka The Combover Kid | |
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In reply to Post #1000
Hi there. I have tried the washing up liquid trick a few times but with no success, any ideas on getting the gunk fully out?
Stuart
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In reply to Post #6
great tip, mate. i will add it into the maintenance tips above
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In reply to Post #2
always had trouble with mine,used to burn with a high orange flame,easy solved swopped it with my mates one whilst he slept ! now he has the same problem i used to have 
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In reply to Post #1000
A tip i tried was to mix a little white spirit in the unleaded, i have tried it and it burns blue, would it work if i just used a white spirit?
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In reply to Post #1000
Mate, worked a treat, now good as new
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In reply to Post #1000
Top post, Baitman, will give it go tonite seeing as mine has been playing up at bit of late.
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In reply to Post #1
prob better in tackle section, though 
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Tackle