Many thanks for your help

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Mick

Thanks men ....

There are two types of Spyder it seems. One with three segments and another with more than that. Is there a link to the one you refer to?
Cheers

PS
Hull Angling do not have any Dots in stock (mediums that is)

--
Mick

Hello all ....

The Dot spod. Is it still available and if so where from? If it isn't, can anyone tell me why?

Mine is getting old now (an original from Europe) so I am looking at getting a backup just in case it fails. What can anyone recommend please. The retrieve is important

Thank you

In reply to Post #27
The trouble seems to be keeping it in the frame at 3000mm while on a tripod.

What camera and lens are you using? A gimbal head on a tripod can be set to only move on the one plane so (as long as you have set it up correctly) you only have to keep up with the target - which does sound dead easy but isn't of course.

In reply to Post #28
If your kit lens has a shorter focal length than 50mm I would use that - otherwise use the 50mm. I don't know what camera you are using. Do you use a built in flash or an external - the external is preferable but not essential. If your camera allows you to adjust the flash output (usually only on external speedlites and then not all of them) then crank it down to 1/2 and take a test shot - adjust if neccessary. If external then use a diffuser - a bit of white cloth is good.

The key is not to use a single spot of a brilliant, bright flash but a good spread of decent light. The single spot creates the big bright white spots on the flanks of a fish (which is why you shopuld try not to have to 90 degrees to the flash - angle it up, down, sideways so as not to direct the flash back to the camera). Using even two Rhinos does not give really decent light and you will probably find that your shutter speed will have to be reduced which can lead to blur. If you use the shutter setting on the camera and set that to the fastest sync speed allowable (usually 1/125s up to 1/250s depending on the camera) then you can adjust the aperture to reduce the glare of the flash plus for the depth of field - f8 is a good starting point as it will give you a decent depth of field for you and the fish (be in focus) but will blur nicely beyond that.

Experiment is the key and if you have a Canon then I can really recommend the 24mm Pancake lens which will return fabulous flat frame images plus you can set it up only 5 of 6 feet away from you (the 50mm is further away than that). Good for tighter spots. if you are after an external flash then a Mieke MK320 (for your make of camera) is an excellent, adjustable device. Rather small too. They are getting a bit rare now but if you see one, consider it.

Once you get a result you like then write the settings down and set it up the same every time.

In reply to Post #25
wouldn't you get a decent shutter speed if you catch it in a dark sky with the iss still lit by the sun?

Yes as you can only see the ISS if it is illuminated by the sun or as a silhouette against the moon. When illuminated by the sun it is very bright so is an easy handheld target on any camera albeit just a point of light. To try and get any detail you need, as you say, a (much) longer lens and a reduction in the light so a fast shutter speed and a small aperture. Bloody difficult handheld though.

Easier through a scope tracking the moon. The exposures will be fast because of the brightness of the moon (1/1000s through filters on my CCD) and the ISS will show up well. If you can track the moon with a long lens to fill the frame on a DSLR then you will get it without a problem.

Here it is fading into the earth's shadow (heading towards M44) - no detail, just an idle shot whilst out imaging. (A tripod shot)

In reply to Post #19
I'll regularly use a screw in bankstick with a cheap star tracking mount

I am b*ggered if I am taking my star tracking mount fishing .......

In reply to Post #12
I use a small Velbon tripod for my DSLR (donkeys years old now but still going strong). The ball head is a good idea - I have two small video cameras running all the time in daylight both mounted on banksticks and use one of these on each.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/SMALLRIG-Panoramic-Ballhead-Arca-Swiss-Compatible/dp/B0833XVLK8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RP2IV3AFODSP&keywords=smallrig+ball+head&qid=1662022037&sprefix=smallrig+ball%2Caps%2C93&sr=8-3

They allow the camera to be removed and replaced without moving the line up. They will hold a DSLR but with the weight it is best to ensure the stick is really in the ground. For a heavier camera a tripod is much safer.

In reply to Post #16
Once again the Canon 24mm pancake lens. I have been using mine for a few years now. Lovely flat frame, excellent images and you can have the camera only 5 or 6 feet away so it is very compact.

In reply to Post #27
Running rigs can also cause lack of indication on smooth bottoms where the lead can slide and acts like a tensioner. This can occur if the fish is running to either side and towards you a little bit. A heavy lead negates the issue but it can and does happen.