In reply to Post #1285
Leather washer is much better for building pressure, oil with olive oil. Buy from ebay.
Leather washer is much better for building pressure, oil with olive oil. Buy from ebay.
In reply to Post #1285
Dupe...
Dupe...
Got my Coleman feather out earlier and started to give it a pump and petrol started to spurt out of the little hole when I removed my thumb from pumping. I'm Obviously getting pressure but why is it forcing the petrol out of the pump handle. Any ideas what the issue is and how I can resolve this?
In reply to Post #1288
Could be a blocked generator?
The pressure is obviously there & it seems like there's nowhere for it to go...
Try removing & cleaning the generator with the method above or a new one is £16-£20 depending on where you shop?
I've just had mine serviced at the Tacklebox Kent (another option?).
Could be a blocked generator?
The pressure is obviously there & it seems like there's nowhere for it to go...
Try removing & cleaning the generator with the method above or a new one is £16-£20 depending on where you shop?
I've just had mine serviced at the Tacklebox Kent (another option?).
In reply to Post #1289
I guess that's the only place to start, I noticed it's taken a bang on the top of the generator and pushed it inwards if that makes sense as there's a small dent in the tank just below it and it looks like petrol has leaked from there at some point.
I guess that's the only place to start, I noticed it's taken a bang on the top of the generator and pushed it inwards if that makes sense as there's a small dent in the tank just below it and it looks like petrol has leaked from there at some point.
In reply to Post #1288
Hi Mate,
I have had this a few times, especially when the stove has been sat for a while with pressure.
I simply released all the pressure and re-pumped it. Seems to solve the issue - for my stove, in any case - they are all different..
Hi Mate,
I have had this a few times, especially when the stove has been sat for a while with pressure.
I simply released all the pressure and re-pumped it. Seems to solve the issue - for my stove, in any case - they are all different..
In reply to Post #1000
Just sent my two Sportster 533s to The Tackle Box in Kent because both of them are unusable. I'm rubbish at repairing things so I bit the bullet. I must say I have been very impressed with their level of attention, communication and speed of service. Both stoves back within 10 days fully working, saving me £250 in replacements. Well done The Tackle Box, you have a new customer!
Just sent my two Sportster 533s to The Tackle Box in Kent because both of them are unusable. I'm rubbish at repairing things so I bit the bullet. I must say I have been very impressed with their level of attention, communication and speed of service. Both stoves back within 10 days fully working, saving me £250 in replacements. Well done The Tackle Box, you have a new customer!
In reply to Post #1279
Do not use redex in a coleman, they operate at a very different temperature to petrol engines.. it won't do it any good
Do not use redex in a coleman, they operate at a very different temperature to petrol engines.. it won't do it any good
In reply to Post #1000
In my experience 90% of problems are simple user error
the complete failure of people to understand that LACK OF PRESSURE will cause big problems and it starts right at the beginning you all start off well pumping it up to max pressure
then you light it once its lit ...>>>>>>you will have LOST LOADS of pressure !! <<<<<<<
so you MUST !! STRAIGHT AWAY PUMP THE GRANNY OUT OF IT TILL you cant pump any more
simple job done it will now run nice blue flame without flare ups or a lollopy yellow flames caused by lack of pressure
cos you didnt replace the pressure lost during the initial lighting process
I have been using Coleman stoves since I bought my Coleman feather light 400 in 1982 still in use today 40 years on !!!
and I never had any problems until they stopped selling leaded petrol and then the gumming up of the generator started caused by the additives additives include metal deactivators, corrosion inhibitors, oxygenates and antioxidants they put in unleaded petrol for the modern car engines not only that THE FUMES FROM THE STOVE using unleaded are seriously dangerous for your health I have used all the alternatives coleman fuel (naphtha) panel wipe again based on naphtha and others but the DADDY is ASPEN 4 ALKYLATE PETROL none of the horrible smell or fumes and it does not go stale its the purest thing and nothing comes close to making your stove so much easier to use trust me
In my experience 90% of problems are simple user error
the complete failure of people to understand that LACK OF PRESSURE will cause big problems and it starts right at the beginning you all start off well pumping it up to max pressure
then you light it once its lit ...>>>>>>you will have LOST LOADS of pressure !! <<<<<<<
so you MUST !! STRAIGHT AWAY PUMP THE GRANNY OUT OF IT TILL you cant pump any more
simple job done it will now run nice blue flame without flare ups or a lollopy yellow flames caused by lack of pressure
cos you didnt replace the pressure lost during the initial lighting process
I have been using Coleman stoves since I bought my Coleman feather light 400 in 1982 still in use today 40 years on !!!
and I never had any problems until they stopped selling leaded petrol and then the gumming up of the generator started caused by the additives additives include metal deactivators, corrosion inhibitors, oxygenates and antioxidants they put in unleaded petrol for the modern car engines not only that THE FUMES FROM THE STOVE using unleaded are seriously dangerous for your health I have used all the alternatives coleman fuel (naphtha) panel wipe again based on naphtha and others but the DADDY is ASPEN 4 ALKYLATE PETROL none of the horrible smell or fumes and it does not go stale its the purest thing and nothing comes close to making your stove so much easier to use trust me
In reply to Post #1298
BUMP
Have a relatively new one of these But fuel is escaping via the on / off red switch
Any suggestions as to what might be the cause ?
Only a couple of years old Only ever run on Aspen 4
BUMP
Have a relatively new one of these But fuel is escaping via the on / off red switch
Any suggestions as to what might be the cause ?
Only a couple of years old Only ever run on Aspen 4
In reply to Post #1299
There is a o ring in there that will need replacing m8 it is 5.28mm inside diameter and 1.78 mm thick according to what I've found out today as I've got the same problem
I just need to find some now as they need to be fuel resistant ones called flouro silicone so I have been told
There is a o ring in there that will need replacing m8 it is 5.28mm inside diameter and 1.78 mm thick according to what I've found out today as I've got the same problem
I just need to find some now as they need to be fuel resistant ones called flouro silicone so I have been told
In reply to Post #1300
Good work sir
Keep me posted on your progress 👍🏻
Good work sir
Keep me posted on your progress 👍🏻
If you try to build up pressure but you take your thumb off the timer knob and the air hisses out then you may need to service your check valve....
I'd never heard f it, but Karl Starnes shared this video with me as he was having the same issues.
https://youtu.be/ElvzkhYOnnQ?si=MNXVqdMtwhjpbKUb
https://youtu.be/ElvzkhYOnnQ?si=MNXVqdMtwhjpbKUb
I'd never heard f it, but Karl Starnes shared this video with me as he was having the same issues.
https://youtu.be/ElvzkhYOnnQ?si=MNXVqdMtwhjpbKUb
https://youtu.be/ElvzkhYOnnQ?si=MNXVqdMtwhjpbKUb
In reply to Post #1300
How did you get on with this?
I recently had the fuel leaking out of the on/off lever and found mine had two o rings. After a bit of research the general consensus was the size you need is BS009, tried those and they wouldn't fit, so tried BS008 and on my particular stove anyway (533) those are the ones. Hope that may help someone, much cheaper than replacing the whole valve. Got mine from Seals R Us on eBay.
How did you get on with this?
I recently had the fuel leaking out of the on/off lever and found mine had two o rings. After a bit of research the general consensus was the size you need is BS009, tried those and they wouldn't fit, so tried BS008 and on my particular stove anyway (533) those are the ones. Hope that may help someone, much cheaper than replacing the whole valve. Got mine from Seals R Us on eBay.
What's the black blocks that sit at the side of the compartment that the one end of the Genny sits