In reply to Post #15
Ok cool thanks
Ok cool thanks
Hi chaps,
Rather than start a new thread, I'd thought I'd resurrect this old one....
I have started using the German rig recently and my last 5 fish have all fallen to this rig, so i must be doing something right...but I've been doing a bit of googleing and it appears i have been setting the rig incorrectly....(but it seems to be working)
I tie it using semi stiff coated braid and have the hook stop opposite the bard...i have used both Mugga hooks and krank hooks...caught on both 3-2 in favour of the Mugga.....
I have been weighting the Rig so the hook point just hoovers above the bottom..l thought this rig worked best with wafters... but my google searches suggest the hook should lay flat on the lakebed with the bait just wafting above....also it also suggests the rig is suitable for bottom baits and snowman set ups....
Any advice would be appreciated
Rather than start a new thread, I'd thought I'd resurrect this old one....
I have started using the German rig recently and my last 5 fish have all fallen to this rig, so i must be doing something right...but I've been doing a bit of googleing and it appears i have been setting the rig incorrectly....(but it seems to be working)
I tie it using semi stiff coated braid and have the hook stop opposite the bard...i have used both Mugga hooks and krank hooks...caught on both 3-2 in favour of the Mugga.....
I have been weighting the Rig so the hook point just hoovers above the bottom..l thought this rig worked best with wafters... but my google searches suggest the hook should lay flat on the lakebed with the bait just wafting above....also it also suggests the rig is suitable for bottom baits and snowman set ups....
Any advice would be appreciated
In reply to Post #17
It's working mate, stick with it and come to your own conclusions
It's working mate, stick with it and come to your own conclusions
In reply to Post #18
I'm a big fan of the German. One lake im fishing has a no curved shank hook rule, so I haven't used them. Thinking I could get a similar effect with a longshank and kicker - anyone used this?
I'm a big fan of the German. One lake im fishing has a no curved shank hook rule, so I haven't used them. Thinking I could get a similar effect with a longshank and kicker - anyone used this?
In reply to Post #17
If what you are doing is working and you are hooking the takes, then what you are doing is right.
If you start losing fish, then play around to improve things, but only try one change at a time.
If what you are doing is working and you are hooking the takes, then what you are doing is right.
If you start losing fish, then play around to improve things, but only try one change at a time.
Cheers chaps for taking the time to reply....
The hook holds have been spot on,,,, every one dead centre of the bottom lip..... ill keep everything the same until it stops working.....
This is also the first time i have used proper job pop ups... i got a couple of tubs of different flavours with mixed sizes etc in each tub....the 11mm pop ups need some serious putty to balance the rig...god knows how much you need for the 15mm.....ill save them for when I'm fishing HSR rigs....
Tight lines
The hook holds have been spot on,,,, every one dead centre of the bottom lip..... ill keep everything the same until it stops working.....
This is also the first time i have used proper job pop ups... i got a couple of tubs of different flavours with mixed sizes etc in each tub....the 11mm pop ups need some serious putty to balance the rig...god knows how much you need for the 15mm.....ill save them for when I'm fishing HSR rigs....
Tight lines
In reply to Post #14
I use a loop and connect to a QC swivel but rather than anti tangle tubing to secure it I just use a 4mm bead so still get plenty of movement at that end, also fish it Turbo style
I use a loop and connect to a QC swivel but rather than anti tangle tubing to secure it I just use a 4mm bead so still get plenty of movement at that end, also fish it Turbo style
In reply to Post #1
esp semi stiff tungsten loaded to a size 4 mugga.
small anti tangle sleave from the leadclip
esp semi stiff tungsten loaded to a size 4 mugga.
small anti tangle sleave from the leadclip
In reply to Post #8
the whole point of the rig is for the whole thing to be semi stiff, and not to have any flexi or stripped back sections. Think about it....once that rigs sucked in by a carp.....it is going to be a nightmare for them to blow back out due to the stiffness. Its why the hinge stiff rig works so well.
the whole point of the rig is for the whole thing to be semi stiff, and not to have any flexi or stripped back sections. Think about it....once that rigs sucked in by a carp.....it is going to be a nightmare for them to blow back out due to the stiffness. Its why the hinge stiff rig works so well.
In reply to Post #23
Have to agree with you esp semi stiff tungsten loaded to a size 4 mugga but if you were fishing a typical club water and most of the carp were upper doubles and a few twenty's up to about 24lb would you drop down to a size 6 mugga or would you stick with a size 4.
Cheers
Have to agree with you esp semi stiff tungsten loaded to a size 4 mugga but if you were fishing a typical club water and most of the carp were upper doubles and a few twenty's up to about 24lb would you drop down to a size 6 mugga or would you stick with a size 4.
Cheers
In reply to Post #25
I always use a size 4 if I'm honest regardless. I only really change the hook size if I change the size of the bait for example but for most its a size 4. Usually a wafter or snowman presentation.
I have caught plenty of mid double fish with size 4 hooks no worries at all. I have fallen into the trap numerous times of getting too hung up on rigs etc and everytime i do I just remind myself I know this rig works.
I always use a size 4 if I'm honest regardless. I only really change the hook size if I change the size of the bait for example but for most its a size 4. Usually a wafter or snowman presentation.
I have caught plenty of mid double fish with size 4 hooks no worries at all. I have fallen into the trap numerous times of getting too hung up on rigs etc and everytime i do I just remind myself I know this rig works.
In reply to Post #25
Stick with the 4's. Mugga's aren't a big pattern... I had a 3lber on a 4 the other day! I use the 2's for bottom bait fishing and even they disappear in a 20lbers gob.
Stick with the 4's. Mugga's aren't a big pattern... I had a 3lber on a 4 the other day! I use the 2's for bottom bait fishing and even they disappear in a 20lbers gob.
Im another that only uses the muggas in a size 2 and 4 , a lot may use and have total confidence in the size 6 and 8 muggas but with the more inturned eye of the mugga compared to most curve hooks ive never been confident in the size 6 as to me the gape becomes smaller.
In reply to Post #28
I think I got done at the weekend on a German rig - I was using size 6 Mugga to Gardner tricklink, putty 1” back with a trimmed down wafter - I think IT was a slight lack of flex at the hook-end. I've just bought some banktackle semi stiff hooklink to try?
I think I got done at the weekend on a German rig - I was using size 6 Mugga to Gardner tricklink, putty 1” back with a trimmed down wafter - I think IT was a slight lack of flex at the hook-end. I've just bought some banktackle semi stiff hooklink to try?
In reply to Post #29
No mate , the trick link is ideal for the German rig , no need for putty imo but if it gives you confidence then I suppose it won't do any harm . I prefer the trick link in the 25lb as it's a bit stiffer . I would imagine stiff flourocarbon would work well with this rig
No mate , the trick link is ideal for the German rig , no need for putty imo but if it gives you confidence then I suppose it won't do any harm . I prefer the trick link in the 25lb as it's a bit stiffer . I would imagine stiff flourocarbon would work well with this rig