Hi I recently bought a set off infinities BR which i was looking forward to getting for a long time. When I received them although cosmetically are perfect its clear they need a bit of TLC. 2 of the reels the clickers are gone and the the other 2 reels the wooden knobs are sticking and won't reel smoothly. I can also tell the bearings need replacing. I am a mechanical engineer by trade and have taking lots of things apart and back together over the years. I never did a reel however. I have been told these are easy to service yourself? Also does anyone know the baring part for the handle that allows it to rotate freely?
In reply to Post #3
Certainly does help. Thank you all. Still not 100% if I can buy the spindle for the wooden handle as this is what seems to not rotate freely. The schematic does not seem to show this part numbered. Might have to work something out.
Certainly does help. Thank you all. Still not 100% if I can buy the spindle for the wooden handle as this is what seems to not rotate freely. The schematic does not seem to show this part numbered. Might have to work something out.
In reply to Post #1
Fishing reels aren't that difficult to take apart in the general scheme of things. However, out of all spinning type reels, baitrunners are the most complex and out of the baitrunners I'd say the Infinity is probably amongst the most difficult.
The schematics are a great help but they don't show exactly how the components sit within the body and hereby lies the potential problems. Once you've taken one apart once and put it back together then subsequent strip downs are a piece of piss - but the first time you could end up with a bit of swearing
Once you've stripped down the exterior - handle, bait runner lever and removed the body screws then its time to lift off the side plate. At this stage watch out for the internal baitrunner lever pieces moving. The spring detaches and can come off. It takes a few attempts to work out how it sits and on putting the reel back together it's difficult to keep both this and the main drive gears in situ as you try to get the side plate back on. If you did a few of these a special tool could be made to assist, but for a one off probably not worth the hassle
The clicker you are trying to replace costs around a fiver, is a simple piece of shaped metal and held in by a small screw and takes seconds to replace, it is the reassembly which is a bugger.
By the way, for such a big heavy reel often described as tank like or bomb proof the springs are amazingly delicate, especially the rotor/ bail arm ones - they are almost human hair thickness and easy to damage
And lastly - don't try to disassemble on the kitchen counter when you've got a few spare minutes - recipe for disaster. Do it on a proper, clear, uncluttered table with pots for putting parts in, correct fitting tools and and a suitable time for completion - at least a couple of hours for the first time
Fishing reels aren't that difficult to take apart in the general scheme of things. However, out of all spinning type reels, baitrunners are the most complex and out of the baitrunners I'd say the Infinity is probably amongst the most difficult.
The schematics are a great help but they don't show exactly how the components sit within the body and hereby lies the potential problems. Once you've taken one apart once and put it back together then subsequent strip downs are a piece of piss - but the first time you could end up with a bit of swearing
Once you've stripped down the exterior - handle, bait runner lever and removed the body screws then its time to lift off the side plate. At this stage watch out for the internal baitrunner lever pieces moving. The spring detaches and can come off. It takes a few attempts to work out how it sits and on putting the reel back together it's difficult to keep both this and the main drive gears in situ as you try to get the side plate back on. If you did a few of these a special tool could be made to assist, but for a one off probably not worth the hassle
The clicker you are trying to replace costs around a fiver, is a simple piece of shaped metal and held in by a small screw and takes seconds to replace, it is the reassembly which is a bugger.
By the way, for such a big heavy reel often described as tank like or bomb proof the springs are amazingly delicate, especially the rotor/ bail arm ones - they are almost human hair thickness and easy to damage
And lastly - don't try to disassemble on the kitchen counter when you've got a few spare minutes - recipe for disaster. Do it on a proper, clear, uncluttered table with pots for putting parts in, correct fitting tools and and a suitable time for completion - at least a couple of hours for the first time
In reply to Post #1
If you need them professionally servicing I can recommend reel-tech. There's a review in the review section.
If you need them professionally servicing I can recommend reel-tech. There's a review in the review section.
In reply to Post #4
Looks like they only supply the handle as a complete unit unfortunately.
You will probably be able to dis -assemble it if it has bearings in it though.
As an engineer you will be able to mic. up the handle bearings to get the replacement size or they may just need a wash out and lube. The other internal bearings I would replace from a bearing factor.
The only thing to add to the excellent #5 post by Singlebleep is to take plenty of photos of the internals to use as reference and to use the biggest towel you can find to cover the work surface....springs and such have the nastiest tendency to ping off and bounce to some inexplicable place.. the towel at least may help to slow them down..
I once was working on something quite intricate on the bench in my garage and a part pinged off and was lost, part of a handlebar switch IIRC
In the days before the internet this part was irreplaceable and thus a motorcycle was off the road.
Despite it being a small part it departed with quite some force although I never heard it land or bounce off something to reveal it's location which was unusual.
After searching every nook and cranny it was not found.
Months later I decided to point up a bit brickwork outside and found the missing part buried about 4" deep in a partly opened cement bag in the garage.
Looks like they only supply the handle as a complete unit unfortunately.
You will probably be able to dis -assemble it if it has bearings in it though.
As an engineer you will be able to mic. up the handle bearings to get the replacement size or they may just need a wash out and lube. The other internal bearings I would replace from a bearing factor.
The only thing to add to the excellent #5 post by Singlebleep is to take plenty of photos of the internals to use as reference and to use the biggest towel you can find to cover the work surface....springs and such have the nastiest tendency to ping off and bounce to some inexplicable place.. the towel at least may help to slow them down..
I once was working on something quite intricate on the bench in my garage and a part pinged off and was lost, part of a handlebar switch IIRC
In the days before the internet this part was irreplaceable and thus a motorcycle was off the road.
Despite it being a small part it departed with quite some force although I never heard it land or bounce off something to reveal it's location which was unusual.
After searching every nook and cranny it was not found.
Months later I decided to point up a bit brickwork outside and found the missing part buried about 4" deep in a partly opened cement bag in the garage.
As mentioned make sure youve got a nice clear area and aren't going to be disturbed.
I'd recommend getting some compartment boxes from B&Q or Wilko do them. 1 for each reel preferably then you can totally dismantle and know where everything is; and if you do need to move stuff or come back to it all its all there in place !
organiser
a magnet is handy for the obvious reasons but you can also fix a ball bearing if they decide to pop out
just read your a mechanical engineer - you prob didnt need telling about the magnet and ball bearing
I'd recommend getting some compartment boxes from B&Q or Wilko do them. 1 for each reel preferably then you can totally dismantle and know where everything is; and if you do need to move stuff or come back to it all its all there in place !
organiser
a magnet is handy for the obvious reasons but you can also fix a ball bearing if they decide to pop out
just read your a mechanical engineer - you prob didnt need telling about the magnet and ball bearing
In reply to Post #1
If you go to a shop, the tackle box , Kent did my daiwas, top service
If you go to a shop, the tackle box , Kent did my daiwas, top service
In reply to Post #8
Thank you for all the replies especially the organising and free of clutter work spaces which I agree is definitely of huge importance. Thankfully I tinker alot with electronics so the workspace, dividers organisers and unfortunately the ability to lose small parts is at a high level.
I think we have all had similar horror stories losing/breaking parts. Alas these will be getting tackled ( excuse pun) this weekend all monitored under the supervision off my ever faithful GoPro.
Thank you for all the replies especially the organising and free of clutter work spaces which I agree is definitely of huge importance. Thankfully I tinker alot with electronics so the workspace, dividers organisers and unfortunately the ability to lose small parts is at a high level.
I think we have all had similar horror stories losing/breaking parts. Alas these will be getting tackled ( excuse pun) this weekend all monitored under the supervision off my ever faithful GoPro.