The Jag kit does come with the black handled file as standard and the red and green handled stones stored inside the vice handle... the file.is to long to get inside the vice handle
The Nash hook doctor whilst being a bit extravagent is amazing.... 
Super sharp hooks get blunted quicker, a few seconds with the doctors brings them back to ultimate sharpness. I use a jag eye to check them regardless of how sharp i think it is day or night.
Your results will speak for themselves....
Super sharp hooks get blunted quicker, a few seconds with the doctors brings them back to ultimate sharpness. I use a jag eye to check them regardless of how sharp i think it is day or night.
Your results will speak for themselves....
I've sharpened hooks on diamond stones right up to an 8000 grit Japanese water stone, like a polished hypodermic needle. IMO it's a waste of time. You need a sharp point but as little material removed as possible.
The jag stones and keen eye is all you need to maintain a good enough point to catch fish
The jag stones and keen eye is all you need to maintain a good enough point to catch fish
In reply to Post #33
Amateur, you need to go to naguri stone level as a minimum
The only real benefit with the super fine grades is better rust resistance
Amateur, you need to go to naguri stone level as a minimum
The only real benefit with the super fine grades is better rust resistance
In reply to Post #34
I had to google naguri stone. Can't work out whether that's fine, ultra fine, coarse or anything in between.
Tell me more please
I had to google naguri stone. Can't work out whether that's fine, ultra fine, coarse or anything in between.
Tell me more please
In reply to Post #35
Very fine Bob, the ones I get are labelled 8000 grit but are a lot finer than an 8000 grade jap stone, I use it to get scratches out of glass. I keep an old one in my tackle box now to use after the file, the jag stones are great but I find them a bit fiddly, after 20 years in the building game my hands aren't the most nimble
Very fine Bob, the ones I get are labelled 8000 grit but are a lot finer than an 8000 grade jap stone, I use it to get scratches out of glass. I keep an old one in my tackle box now to use after the file, the jag stones are great but I find them a bit fiddly, after 20 years in the building game my hands aren't the most nimble
In reply to Post #34
Have tried all sorts mate. The missus brother in law is a chippy from Japan, the skill is next level!! Can't work out Blum hinges though lol
Should've seen his face when I touched up a few plane irons on a bit of mdf with car polish
Works though!
Have tried all sorts mate. The missus brother in law is a chippy from Japan, the skill is next level!! Can't work out Blum hinges though lol
Should've seen his face when I touched up a few plane irons on a bit of mdf with car polish
Works though!
In reply to Post #36
As a matter of interest what files and stones do you use from start to finish.
I'm a bit lazy and use little more than a Jag file.
As a matter of interest what files and stones do you use from start to finish.
I'm a bit lazy and use little more than a Jag file.
In reply to Post #38
That's all you need really mate. While an über fine stone is a nice thing to have it is not only overkill, but will wear out way quicker than a diamond plate and needs maintaining with a combination of diamond or natural coarser stones to flatten and nagura stones for cleaning/fine tuning. It's a great idea to have something to hand for final tidying up like Duggs, but I'd suggest you need to be a bit tasty for it to be worthwhile.
Just buy a tormek and rig it up to your car battery, that'll show the Nash grinder users what's what
That's all you need really mate. While an über fine stone is a nice thing to have it is not only overkill, but will wear out way quicker than a diamond plate and needs maintaining with a combination of diamond or natural coarser stones to flatten and nagura stones for cleaning/fine tuning. It's a great idea to have something to hand for final tidying up like Duggs, but I'd suggest you need to be a bit tasty for it to be worthwhile.
Just buy a tormek and rig it up to your car battery, that'll show the Nash grinder users what's what
In reply to Post #14
my grandfather taught me to check the hook and when to sharpen them some 40 years ago. However I tend to only sharpen them when they need it.
my grandfather taught me to check the hook and when to sharpen them some 40 years ago. However I tend to only sharpen them when they need it.
In reply to Post #37
That's proper craftsmanship mate
would take a while to get the belt Sander marks out with that tho.
Bob, the jag kit is perfect for most people, I use what I do because I have it anyway. I'll end up with similar results using expensive diamond products as I would with a chopstick with wet and dry stuck to the flat edges, so I use the tools that fit my hand better. When it's cold that'll be a nice fine vallorbe tapered file and a nagura stone, when it warms up the chopstick is usually the most used
That's proper craftsmanship mate
would take a while to get the belt Sander marks out with that tho.Bob, the jag kit is perfect for most people, I use what I do because I have it anyway. I'll end up with similar results using expensive diamond products as I would with a chopstick with wet and dry stuck to the flat edges, so I use the tools that fit my hand better. When it's cold that'll be a nice fine vallorbe tapered file and a nagura stone, when it warms up the chopstick is usually the most used
In reply to Post #41
Not with a 9” grinder as your medium grit and if you're really skilled it turns pretty colours!!
Not with a 9” grinder as your medium grit and if you're really skilled it turns pretty colours!!
In reply to Post #41
Before the Jag kits were available and it was all over youtube I used to use a bit of finishing paper. People used to tell me you shouldn't muck about with things like that, just change the hook. Those people were using G-Hards at the time at £1 a pop.
Before the Jag kits were available and it was all over youtube I used to use a bit of finishing paper. People used to tell me you shouldn't muck about with things like that, just change the hook. Those people were using G-Hards at the time at £1 a pop.
In reply to Post #43
I bought some of them in my early days, felt completely blunt after coming from super specialists.
The coatings used are the main culprit for blunt hooks straight out the pack, easily fixed with a couple of strokes of something fine
I bought some of them in my early days, felt completely blunt after coming from super specialists.
The coatings used are the main culprit for blunt hooks straight out the pack, easily fixed with a couple of strokes of something fine
In reply to Post #44
Listening to the latest podcast Danny fairbrass was saying even he doesn't use their Kamakura hooks as their just too sharp and he's lost fish down to it,I prefer their standard hooks beaked points and a little sharpen myself
Listening to the latest podcast Danny fairbrass was saying even he doesn't use their Kamakura hooks as their just too sharp and he's lost fish down to it,I prefer their standard hooks beaked points and a little sharpen myself