In reply to Post #15
Definitely mate, I've got one with the sleeve for the cable but it was still on the bigger m class unit. I prefer the ctl mini but I'm not allowed to use it on some jobs. You do notice the difference with the more demanding jobs.
The sleeve helps a lot too, it's amazing how often the cable manages to slot itself in that channel on the track
Definitely mate, I've got one with the sleeve for the cable but it was still on the bigger m class unit. I prefer the ctl mini but I'm not allowed to use it on some jobs. You do notice the difference with the more demanding jobs.
The sleeve helps a lot too, it's amazing how often the cable manages to slot itself in that channel on the track
Can't you just make up a small extension lead ?
In reply to Post #16
I think the festool track needs updating. Dewalt have them beaten in that department
Have got a bit too comfortable with the extraction unit bigger than my van at the workshop, the cable issue you have drives me nuts with smaller tools. Festool's power unit thing on the vacuum seems the best solution but I'll be ****ed if I'm re-buying the multiple routers I often have on rotation and that unit. I'm so tight I often try putting an edge back on Stanley blades ffs
I think the festool track needs updating. Dewalt have them beaten in that department
Have got a bit too comfortable with the extraction unit bigger than my van at the workshop, the cable issue you have drives me nuts with smaller tools. Festool's power unit thing on the vacuum seems the best solution but I'll be ****ed if I'm re-buying the multiple routers I often have on rotation and that unit. I'm so tight I often try putting an edge back on Stanley blades ffs
In reply to Post #17
That's basically what I want, but with a smaller connection than a 3pin plug and 1 gang socket, that won't come apart if it gets a tug.
I did a tes run with a 10amp connector from tin heads link, bit long winded swapping and didn't take many tugs for it to come apart. The festool adaptor seems the best option for the sanders (as long as they don't have an earth, haven't checked yet)
That's basically what I want, but with a smaller connection than a 3pin plug and 1 gang socket, that won't come apart if it gets a tug.
I did a tes run with a 10amp connector from tin heads link, bit long winded swapping and didn't take many tugs for it to come apart. The festool adaptor seems the best option for the sanders (as long as they don't have an earth, haven't checked yet)
In reply to Post #18
I've tried a four gang off the extractor, but as you'll know, if your using multiple tools in rotation it's a case of knit one pearl one with the leads, the hose ends up looking like one of the paracord kettle handles after a couple of cycles
I am tempted by the festool 5 inch orbital with the edge attachment tbh, a simple idea that makes the job easier
£100 makita vs £500 festool +£100 accessory🙄
I haven't seen the dewalt track, but with all the accessories I've bought for the festool ones I hope they don't change
I've tried a four gang off the extractor, but as you'll know, if your using multiple tools in rotation it's a case of knit one pearl one with the leads, the hose ends up looking like one of the paracord kettle handles after a couple of cycles
I am tempted by the festool 5 inch orbital with the edge attachment tbh, a simple idea that makes the job easier
£100 makita vs £500 festool +£100 accessory🙄
I haven't seen the dewalt track, but with all the accessories I've bought for the festool ones I hope they don't change
In reply to Post #20
I'm using the festool 5 inch daily, it's very good. Light and ergonomic as you'd expect, but the finish is no better than a makita.
What makes a huge difference to the cable conundrum is a cordless plunge saw, such a worthy investment!
The DW track cuts on both sides and the rail is in the centre rather than offset, so the saws aren't interchangeable on the track like makita/FT.
I'm using the festool 5 inch daily, it's very good. Light and ergonomic as you'd expect, but the finish is no better than a makita.
What makes a huge difference to the cable conundrum is a cordless plunge saw, such a worthy investment!
The DW track cuts on both sides and the rail is in the centre rather than offset, so the saws aren't interchangeable on the track like makita/FT.
In reply to Post #21
I can see that being handy. I bought extra tracks to use for 45 cuts as it trims an extra mm off the splinter guard, and I got fed up of changing the strips every couple of weeks. but I've got used to using the tracks for a router, a jigsaw.. I use them as sash cramps, I have suction cramps for vertical cuts, plus jigs I've made to suit them, radial, ellipse...
That's a lot of accumulated crap that'd cost a small fortune to replace.
I can see that being handy. I bought extra tracks to use for 45 cuts as it trims an extra mm off the splinter guard, and I got fed up of changing the strips every couple of weeks. but I've got used to using the tracks for a router, a jigsaw.. I use them as sash cramps, I have suction cramps for vertical cuts, plus jigs I've made to suit them, radial, ellipse...
That's a lot of accumulated crap that'd cost a small fortune to replace.
In reply to Post #19
That's a shame they claim to have made something IP68 but only if you don't touch it
Surely there must be something out there?
That's a shame they claim to have made something IP68 but only if you don't touch it
Surely there must be something out there?
In reply to Post #23
They seem to be for outdoor lighting and stuff, where cables would be fixed. Probably more secure in the bigger sizes, but it'd be a struggle to use even a 2.5mm flex in the tools
Speaking to a sparky he stopped using them for outside lights as they often fail, but there is a type you fill with resin he'll show me next week. From the sound of it it'll work out similar cost to the festool adaptor, take longer to fit and take longer to swap between tools
They seem to be for outdoor lighting and stuff, where cables would be fixed. Probably more secure in the bigger sizes, but it'd be a struggle to use even a 2.5mm flex in the tools
Speaking to a sparky he stopped using them for outside lights as they often fail, but there is a type you fill with resin he'll show me next week. From the sound of it it'll work out similar cost to the festool adaptor, take longer to fit and take longer to swap between tools
Basically what I think you need is a single gang 230v outside socket that snaps shut so the plug for the tools don't pull out of.
This socket will be wired to your power source with a long enough lead ??
Maybe something along these lines
This socket will be wired to your power source with a long enough lead ??
Maybe something along these lines
In reply to Post #26
It's a big bulky joint hanging off the tool though, I had considered it but I think that would be a pain, I also looked a the connectors used for lawnmowers but they can be temperamental, mainly in extreme temps.
these are pretty much perfect I think, more than I wanted to spend and may need some adapting to clamp properly in the tool as the flex looks a lot thinner than the ones makita/bosch use. I'll leave the 2kw router as is I think, I can deal with one extra lead
It's a big bulky joint hanging off the tool though, I had considered it but I think that would be a pain, I also looked a the connectors used for lawnmowers but they can be temperamental, mainly in extreme temps.
these are pretty much perfect I think, more than I wanted to spend and may need some adapting to clamp properly in the tool as the flex looks a lot thinner than the ones makita/bosch use. I'll leave the 2kw router as is I think, I can deal with one extra lead
So does the connector in your pic connect to each tool when required ? And the other end has a standard 13amp plug on the end
Or do need a connector to make the lead longer in the pic ?
Or do need a connector to make the lead longer in the pic ?
In reply to Post #28
I'd have to get one connector for each tool and replace the tool flex with it.like this, without the 3d printed clip. If you have a glance at the pic in post 10, you can see the fitting on the lead hanging out of the plunge saw, you twist it a quarter turn and pull it out, you can see the socket bit it connects to on the back of the jigsaw. With the connectors I can use the festool cable with the makita sanders, trend routers, bosch planer etc
Then I just put a sleeve over hose and cable so it looks like this (but a fraction of the price)
And no more cable knitting
I'd have to get one connector for each tool and replace the tool flex with it.like this, without the 3d printed clip. If you have a glance at the pic in post 10, you can see the fitting on the lead hanging out of the plunge saw, you twist it a quarter turn and pull it out, you can see the socket bit it connects to on the back of the jigsaw. With the connectors I can use the festool cable with the makita sanders, trend routers, bosch planer etc
Then I just put a sleeve over hose and cable so it looks like this (but a fraction of the price)
And no more cable knitting
In reply to Post #29
So you use the trend version of the DW625 mate?
How does it hold up?
I have a 625 that's about 12 years old and still going, seen 2 newer ones blow up recently mine definitely feels heavier and sounds different
So you use the trend version of the DW625 mate?
How does it hold up?
I have a 625 that's about 12 years old and still going, seen 2 newer ones blow up recently mine definitely feels heavier and sounds different