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Kitchen wall cabinets (44 posts / 2,332 views)
Tinhead Tinhead
Posts: 17,089
Post #16 21 Sep 2020 09:52
0
In reply to Post #15
Good news about the SDS bracket then but I don't get the screw/dowel bit, where does it go?
duggs
Posts: 5,559
Post #17 21 Sep 2020 10:36
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In reply to Post #16
The fixing goes about 9mm down and 35mm in from the back of the carcass, just to stop the unit sinking. A dowell is best but a thick screw is fine as long as you pilot it. If your tiling or doing glass splashbacks up to the cupboard it shouldn't be necessary.

IMG-20200921-104007
Not a magnet carcass but x marks the spot


Bit **** really when a loaded cupboard can be 100kgs plus, and a lot of my jobs will have panels closing the gap between the cupboard and ceiling, painstakingly scribed to half a mm tolerance then 3 months later you've got a 6mm gap above the filler
Tinhead Tinhead
Posts: 17,089
Post #18 21 Sep 2020 11:07
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In reply to Post #17
No tiles/splashback underneath and no filler between top of the cupboard and ceiling.
She has bought two 900 high x 600 wide cabinets. The Left one is against a wall then the right one next to it.
If she fills those cupboard with stuff like we do at home then they will be very heavy


Tinhead Tinhead
Posts: 17,089
Post #19 21 Sep 2020 12:25
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In reply to Post #17
Here's the plan so far.
I'll order the wall rail from SDS they are 12 miles away but with all the traffic I've been talking about recently It'll be easier to get it sent.
What about the fixings in Post #2 will they be suitable with that rail, the holes in the rails are 6mm so I'll go for the 5mm ones, I'll get the tool to go with it as well.
noj
Posts: 11,459
Social photographer...
Social photographer... Post #20 21 Sep 2020 18:03
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In reply to Post #19
For the outlay you may as well get the grip it things. With a rail you'll pick up the stud at the wall/corner, one or two intermediates depending on stud spacing and possibly even the 3rd or 4th with a 1200 overall size.
So you may only need one p/board fixing. Especially if you can also fix the unit itself to the side wall, or fit an end panel to the wall and slide the unit along the rail onto the panel.. screw it all together where the hinges and shelves will cover them all and walk away with your chest out like Eric Cantona to make sure it's witnessed
Tinhead Tinhead
Posts: 17,089
Post #21 21 Sep 2020 20:04
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In reply to Post #20
Yes there are two end panels so I can do as you say.
Just ordered the rail
I might buy the setting tool anyway, it might come in handy for other jobs as all her walls are plasterboard. There's a Screwfix less than 5 minutes away from her so I'll decide on the day.

Thanks Duggs, I like that photo

Thanks for the help gents very much appreciated
duggs
Posts: 5,559
Post #22 21 Sep 2020 21:15
0
In reply to Post #21
I don't know how practical you are but if your going against a wall, 18mm isn't enough space to stop a handle less door hitting, if you have a handle on the door it'll be bashing the same spot repeatedly doing damage. Where possible I'd space it off around 50mm and do a face filler at the side, this gives the added benefit of taking wobbly walls and out of square corners out of the equation.

If you haven't got scope to space it off or don't feel confident scribing a filler you can get hinge restrictors to stop the door opening as far
Tinhead Tinhead
Posts: 17,089
Post #23 21 Sep 2020 21:59
0
In reply to Post #22
On the wall opposite there are two existing cabinets and one of those is against the wall and she's happy with how that works. I'll take a look and mimic that and she'll be more than happy.
Then I'm round my sons to do some electrics, in between I'm finishing off my shutters, there's not much that phases me

Edit
And before anyone says but yeah but I bet all your jobs are **** they certainly are not
noj
Posts: 11,459
Social photographer...
Social photographer... Post #24 21 Sep 2020 22:16
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In reply to Post #22
That's a good point Duggs and one reason I avoid handles if possible. My lad has got about a 1/4 inch dent into the fridge door at home with a ceramic knob on a unit I made next to it
Tinhead Tinhead
Posts: 17,089
Post #25 21 Sep 2020 22:35
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In reply to Post #24
These are handle less. It's an old building that's been converted into flats/apartments and so far all the walls seem to be square and true. I put some shutters on her windows and they didn't need any fettling at all
Different story in my house complete opposite.
duggs
Posts: 5,559
Post #26 22 Sep 2020 06:51
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In reply to Post #24
You can get restrictor for most of the better cabinet hinges, I mostly use blum and their version is easiest to fit, looks like a toe nail trimming you clip into the back of the hole in the door. The magnet hinge is slightly different to the ones I use on higher end stuff so I end up bulk ordering two types.

Some designers I meet look at me like a nutter when I tell them we need them, and these are people selling £50k+ kitchens

noj
Posts: 11,459
Social photographer...
Social photographer... Post #27 22 Sep 2020 07:57
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In reply to Post #26
I know what you mean mate, I use Blum stuff too. Unfortunately I made the mistake of doing a proper job and fitting butt hinges with inlaid doors
duggs
Posts: 5,559
Post #28 22 Sep 2020 13:54
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In reply to Post #27
Doh

I use some on one companies kitchens that are like a tiny perko but I've never found them to buy on their own. I'm doing a lot of more traditional kitchens with butt's recently so im still keeping a look out for them
noj
Posts: 11,459
Social photographer...
Social photographer... Post #29 22 Sep 2020 22:47
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In reply to Post #28
Post a photo up one day mate and I'll keep an eye out
luckyjim luckyjim
Posts: 3,626
Post #30 24 Sep 2020 10:44
0
In reply to Post #28
don't know if this helps ....Isaac Lord based in High Wycombe

LINK
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